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**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Other Reel Games => Topic started by: mr-monoxide on October 10, 2015, 08:46:13 PM
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I've recently acquired a Jennings J400 that doesn't have the correct glass installed and I'm having difficulty determining exactly which machine it is. Most, actually all of the images I can find show a different set of reels than what I've got. My reels have sevens, bars and watermelons and that's it. I say that the glass has been changed because the top glass says 5¢ but it actually is set to accept and pay quarters. Also the payouts on the very strange looking belly glass include reel symbols that aren't on the reels. I know it's a 1-5 coin machine but I don't know if it has 1, 3 or 5 paylines. I also don't know what any winning combination is supposed to payout. Does anyone know what machine this is? It has some operation issues too. The coins played led display always shows a 1 or a 5 and it flickers back and forth between the two. It does accept coins though. Also the reel motor will not disengage after the reels stop. Any info that can be provided will be greatly appreciated. I'll post photos asap, as soon as I figure out how to upload them from my phone.
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Here are the pictures..
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Ok finally got this machine working. I had to have the logic board and power supply repaired, also had to replace the relay and completely rewire the matrix board. It was finally working perfect.. for about a week. Then one day the call attendant light was on and the machine was unresponsive to resets. I checked everything I could but could not get the light to go out. Thinking it was probably something else that went wrong on the logic board I attempted to contact the individual that repaired it the first time but I've not received any response to my emails which is frustrating because their repairs are supposed to have a 90 day warranty. :no: Since I couldn't find anyone else to check it out I decided to do what I could with the logic board. Let me be upfront in saying that I am less than a novice when it comes to circuit boards and their components so I didn't have much hope of success. I can however solder pretty good so all I did was to re-solder any suspicious looking connections on the board. Once I did that it works again! but with one problem. When I turn on the machine all is normal until I put a coin in, when I do that all 5 coin lights turn on at once and the coins played display shows max bet. When you pull the handle the reels spin and stop normally and it will also pay out correctly. But when the game cycle ends it will immediately coin up to max bet again without any coins being inserted. So that where I'm stuck, everything is working as it should except for the coin thing. I've checked the microswitch and it seems to be working fine but I'm not sure what to check next. Any thoughts? What could the problem be? I've worked really hard on this and have invested too much to give up now..
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Well that was short lived success, the call attendant light is back on and the machine is unresponsive again.. Is there someone, ANYONE out there that will repair the logic board?
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cut your loss and toss it they are trouble and always have been , it can be a money pit
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Not quite the response I was hoping for..
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This might help you with your machine:
http://www.ramegoom.com/john/jennings400/Jennings%20Standard%20400%20Manual.pdf (http://www.ramegoom.com/john/jennings400/Jennings%20Standard%20400%20Manual.pdf)
Most of what I have found with the Jennings machines is corrosion under the chips nearest the battery. Those NiCads out-gas and bleed corrosion, damaging many connections at once.
Use a pink eraser on the edge connector pins, as corrosion can make its way to the connectors. It's all simple TTL logic and the internal connections are critical.
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Not quite the response I was hoping for..
I've not worked on a machine like yours but,
I think the implication is that for folks that work on a lot of different models of machines this may not be their first choice or favorite, there are other machines they can get running easier or faster, there are more parts available, etc. And once those machines are gone thru and repaired they seldom have problems after that. But for someone that is ok with putting in whatever time it takes as a project and they are not on a deadline you'll be fine. Some machines need more upkeep than others, their reliably isn't as strong. If this machine turns out to need a repair now and then you may consider that an enjoyable part of owning it and keeping it running, or that it is a pain. You'll have to decide which it is.
Might be worth looking into getting another main logic board (mpu board) to have as a spare. And keep trying to contact the company that repaired your board. If they have a 90 day warranty they should stand behind it, but their warranty may only apply to the repair work they did, not other parts of the board that may now have a new failure.
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Thank you for the replies. Regarding the battery, I was lucky and someone long ago removed the battery from the board and it shows no signs of that type of damage. Anything that I could clean and reseat has been done, that includes the logic board as well as throughout the whole machine. Still no luck...
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Do you suspect the mpu board (main logic board) is causing this problem or something else in the machine? Do you have a way to confirm the power supply voltages are all ok? Do you have the manual or drawings for the machine? I've not read the other repair threads here on NLG on machines like yours but they might be very helpful in picking up knowledge.
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I had the power supply and logic board repaired just a few weeks ago. I've double checked the power supply and all voltages are correct. I do suspect it's the logic board again, as I stated earlier I've tried to contact the individual that did the initial repairs but unfortunately I've received no response. It's probably a super easy fix for someone that knows these boards I just can't find anyone else.. I do have the manual, it is very helpful but unfortunately the troubleshooting fixes listed don't seem to help the problem I'm having.
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Jim does Jennings board repair
http://www.jenningsslots.com/ (http://www.jenningsslots.com/)
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Yes I know, thank you. Anybody else?
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Not too many people mess with the 400's or 700's. I have a pile of J400's still sitting, waiting for the "time" to get to them. There will probably be a few that I'll strip for parts, so I might have some spare components. Eventually I'll get to these, maybe even this year. Or next year...
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I had the power supply and logic board repaired just a few weeks ago. I've double checked the power supply and all voltages are correct. I do suspect it's the logic board again, as I stated earlier I've tried to contact the individual that did the initial repairs but unfortunately I've received no response. It's probably a super easy fix for someone that knows these boards I just can't find anyone else.. I do have the manual, it is very helpful but unfortunately the troubleshooting fixes listed don't seem to help the problem I'm having.
Until you can get that mpu board repaired I'd also be looking for another mpu for a good price. Never hurts to have a spare. Watch on ebay, read thru all the Jennings threads here on NLG, you'll see other people that have similar machines, then you can contact them to see if they have spare parts or know where to get them. It is likely that other Jennings owners have gone thru similar problems, find out how they handled it.
If the main board has sockets for some of the chips that is a potential problem. The contacts on sockets get tarnished and can give erratic connections sometimes as the decades go by, especially the tin ones. New sockets are cheap, if you are handy at soldering you can replace them, even if that isn't the problem you are having now it will increase the reliability on that board. While the socketed chips are out of the board you can carefully clean their legs with a soft pencil eraser, but be very careful not to bend or break them. If you have access to an eprom burner you can make backup copies of your game software from the eproms.
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Rokgps, these boards pre-date microprocessors...no EPROMs, no processor, they're all strictly TTL logic. Weird, and the board is one beast with probably 80 chips on it.
The reels have a backplane which has jumpers that determine win denomination. Very archaic but they do work well - when they work.
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Rokgps, these boards pre-date microprocessors...no EPROMs, no processor, they're all strictly TTL logic. Weird, and the board is one beast with probably 80 chips on it.
The reels have a backplane which has jumpers that determine win denomination. Very archaic but they do work well - when they work.
Thanks ramegoom, didn't know they were that older technology. Do you have a schematic of the mpu board, I'd be interested in seeing and learning more about it? My email address is
rokgpsman@yahoo.com
Also, was Jennings it's own company, or were they part of a bigger gaming company?
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Rokgps,
Check your email inbox.
I think Jennings was its own entity, located in Chicago, until they finally threw in the towel. They made a "700" series machine (I have two of them and they both have weird problems) to compete with the Bally's of those times, but never did really compete since Bally went to a microprocessor with the E series machines around that time.
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Rokgps,
Check your email inbox.
I think Jennings was its own entity, located in Chicago, until they finally threw in the towel. They made a "700" series machine (I have two of them and they both have weird problems) to compete with the Bally's of those times, but never did really compete since Bally went to a microprocessor with the E series machines around that time.
Rx your email, thanks!
It's interesting the history on gaming devices, the different engineering efforts that went into them, how some faded and others did well. Chicago seems to have been at the center of a lot of the companies.
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in mid 80,s we bought those 400 like new for around 100 bucks each in reno from a bank that had paper on them next to summits they were the worst to keep running
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ramegoom - wow, that sure is a lot of j400's you've got there. Care to part with a mpu? Haha. But seriously, when you do get into those machines i'm sure you will have many people interested in them. They are comparatively much smaller than other machines and lightweight too. I can carry mine around by myself with no problems. Those facts alone should make the machine appealing to people..
rokgpsman - I have searched for another mpu to no avail. If I ever do find another I will surely buy it. Until then I'll just keep my ear out and hopefully I'll find someone that may be willing to part with one someday. Unfortunately I think most people just junk the whole machine and never offer the parts for sale.
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I am going to seriously look at a few of these. At least they're easy to move compared to those E series Bally machines.
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One thing to remember when in search for a spare logic board: They are different in that the number of coins and number of lines played are variations in the boards. Most of the boards have several jumper wires and cut traces on them. I believe Jennings made only one logic board (well, several revisions within the production years anyway), and the technicians added jumpers and cut traces to match the game play. This makes it difficult to have a spare board that works the same as the original board. It would have made so much more sense to use DIP switches on a single production board rather than have a birds nest of wires hanging off of both sides. I'm pretty sure the company got caught up in diminishing returns, which led to its demise early in the game.
Seems Jennings was over their heads trying to market a suitable machine that could adapt to the casino's needs. I feel the machine mechanics had some good design (motorized reels) but severely lacked in electronic engineering. It would have been a good move on their part to spirit a few digital engineers away from Bally when they designed their stuff.
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At this point I would settle for any functional logic board I could get my hands on. It wouldn't matter to me if it had different paylines or number of coins played. I would simply change the reel glass to accommodate whatever board I had. In fact that's what the situation was when I got it. The machine is a single payline 5 coin but the logic board is 5 line 5 coin. I can work with whatever I can get. I figure that a working game is better than no game.
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J400 logic board for sale? Anyone? Anyone?....