New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Electromechanical => Topic started by: Phan000 on November 11, 2020, 02:53:45 PM
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Hello,
I picked up a non-working Bally EM. No plate, but I think it’s a 1090- pretty huge.
I’ve repaired the machine, but the award glass is cracked.
I’m looking for ideas to replace the award glass.
I’ve looked through eBay, don’t really see anything similar.
Thanks!
(https://i.imgur.com/tddJIKK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ATCw7EH.jpg)
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You can always just make one (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=4107.0). That's what I'd do.
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You can always just make one ([url]http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=4107.0[/url]). That's what I'd do.
I was thinking about that. Scan, photoshop out the cracks, print on vinyl.
Does this seem right, or is there an easier way?
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That's basically it. It's a good workaround when you need to replace a glass where a replacement isn't readily available.
Scan the art, clean it up in Photoshop or equivalent, and print it on glossy photo paper. That's the easy part.
You also need to arrange for the stuff that's only seen when lit to appear by putting another layer of paper, paint, or vinyl behind the artwork. There are various methods for doing that. The easiest is to use black vinyl with the parts that need to pass light cut away. This can be done with a vinyl cutter that many print shops will likely have.
A quick look at the back of the glass will make it clear where light needs to pass.
Light should be blocked from passing through all other parts of the glass from behind.
Read the full thread and you'll get the idea. I've done a number of pinball glasses that way and I recently did a payout glass for my Bally 891. That one was easy, as the entire glass passes light, so there was no masking necessary on the backside.
It's a bit labor intensive, but on the plus side, it's not an expensive project.
Feel free to can contact me if you have any further questions.
Charlie
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if you are stitching multiple scans together, one faster way is the free microsoft ICE program.
make each scan overlap 20% with adjacent scans and throw all the images at the program. No need to worry about image order or orientation ... it'll figure it out. Save in a lossless format like png.
if using gimp to process the images, the gmic plugin has some useful filters in the "repair" category, and use "select by color" tools to replace all the various shades of a color with one color, then anti-alias the entire thing when done to remove jaggies.
if you don't have a scanner, highest possible resolution digital pics will work, but you have more issues with small distortions.
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I would look into glue made for glass and try gluing it back together.
The time you spend trying to recreate a glass would be better spent looking for a replacement.
Have a video on YouTube of a machine I re-worked.
Required custom made glass, reel tapes and light board.
The top glass was printed from artwork I designed.
Reel glass is reverse cut black vinyl with chrome and colors added.
This process is very labor intense.
https://youtu.be/T3Eq7fITHK0 (https://youtu.be/T3Eq7fITHK0)
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Thanks for the advice. I’m making progress. My scanner did a terrible job with the image, so I had to take a photo.
Used “fiver†app to have someone clean up the artwork- $5 for a guy in India to do some impressive photoshop work.
Will try the 1/8†glass sandwich and primer method.
Hopefully the perspective is straight, or I’ll have to spend another $5!
This machine is not super clean, and I won’t be keeping it. Just trying to tidy up the messy bits.
(https://i.imgur.com/pMovCwJ.jpg)
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Scanning glass can sometimes be a pain, due to reflection issues. Depending on the particular glass, sometimes photos work better, especially if there's not a lot of detail in the artwork.
Everyone has their own level of what's acceptable. You just need a solution that's good enough for you.
For me, at the end of the day, all that really matters is this - will the reproduction glass draw attention to itself in some way?
If you make a glass, install it, show the machine to someone, and they don't ask any questions about the glass at all, you've been successful.
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Printing in reverse on clear vinyl then backing it up with translucent white vinyl is another way to go.
Then applied to the glass.
The only problem is getting the colors right.
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For those that have done this process before, does standard photo paper allow enough light through for the desired lit-up parts?
I got quotes for vinyl, but have had bad experiences color-wise with professional printers, compared to inkjet home printing.
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Standard photo paper works fine. Sure, it blocks some of the light, but so does paint on silkscreened glass.
I've done a couple of slot machine glasses and a half dozen pinball glasses that way. The result is quite good and looks very much like the real thing.
First photo is my 891 with the original payout (top) glass. Second photo shows the machine with the replacement glass. Top photo is poorly lit, but it's all I've got. I replaced it due to some missing paint and a self-induced crack that showed up later.
Just photo paper between two sheets of glass. Bulbs are #47 incandescent.
I've made about ten attempts to modify this post; I keep running into memory allocation errors.
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Matching colors takes time, most sign shop would charge 1 to 2 hours time to get it right.
And then it would not be as close to the original.
Do a sample test on photo paper, it’s going to cut the light and it’s paper. Could be a fire hazard down the road.
Still think glass glue could be an option.
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I got the glass fixed up. Decent enough, though the print shop made the reds a bit peachy.
This machine is driving me crazy.
It has a repetitive short, usually after 5 or 6 pulls. Only on orange circuit. All lights in top unit go dark.
Resets to normal when I turn on and off.
Feel like it has to do with switches on the handle side of the reel, as I see a small amount of white spark as they travel while the reels spin. Also, when I misadjusted the main spring, the short was immediate and every time.
The main spring seems right now, but short is pretty persistent.
(https://i.imgur.com/64IqBXr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iWtuHCf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8N8wTST.jpg)
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the switch is the dashpot switch. Unfortunately, I don't have that in my 929 so can't look, but in your pics it looks like the leftmost pair of switch blades are touching the fat metal bar?
if so, you are potentially shorting the 50V onto metal frame of the machine, and if a lamp socket is also shorting to the frame, you've got a problem.
none of that would explain why the problem would immediately stop by turning the game off/on tho ... that implies a relay being powered someplace changes the behavior.
the top lights are GI - general illumination. There's more of those on the door also. Those aren't affected?
in any case, stick a piece of tape on the fat metal bar so the switches can't touch it and see if it makes a difference.
if the behavior is cyclical, maybe the switches on the other side of the reel mech need checking. The variator on the clock timer link will change what happens to the switches a little as the link changes length.
also, the game isn't a 1090 (3 coin multiplier) or a 1091 (3 line pay). The only 5 line machine I see with wide reels in the Marshall Fey book is a 1099, tho the book doesn't have everything.
I probably have a 1099 schem, but no other info. Do you have diodes on the reel wipers or a diode board in there?
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Something is not quite right with the dash pot switch alignment.
You can add insulators temporarily to the limiter bars to see if that makes a difference.
Black tape should work.
Photo of dash pot switch with machine in relaxed position.
Notice how straight the alignment is.
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Photo
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I don’t see any diodes.
There does not seem to be enough back pressure to keep the dash pot pulled in at the resting position.
Is there a spring missing somewhere, or any way to adjust this?
(https://i.imgur.com/Qj5trRH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CMDGvlZ.jpg)
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great pic from david.
you have a pic looking directly at the side of the reel mech same as his? ... further away so the entire side of the reel mech is ideal.
there's something odd about the alignment of things. Can you loosen the two screws attaching the switch bracket to the reel mech and twist the bracket a little to make the left fat bar vertical (after you straighten it)?
also, the peg usually has a brown nylon sleeve on it. As long as the switch blades aren't cocked and scraping the frame, and the rightmost blade lands centered on the sleeve, that's the insulation for the peg.
your pic looks like the left blades are touching the left fat bar...are they? Even if they are, the bar is supposed to have a piece of fish paper on it so if a you don't get contact between the metal and a switch blade ... but that mainly protects the short blade. If the long one is hitting the bottom edge of the bar, the fish paper may not prevent contact.
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I think it’s set. I’ve run about 40$ through the machine with no hiccups.
I realigned the teeth of the bottom left cogs, and noticed there was a lot of play in the metal frame that the dash pot slides on. I put a spacer to keep the frame from shorting on the switches, and it seems to have done the trick.
(https://i.imgur.com/MySwYLZ.jpg)
(https://imgur.com/gallery/oOFDrgp)
Thanks David and wolf for the help! This machine has been a bit of a pain, and my wife said the Christmas tree needs to occupy that space this coming weekend.
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ok,my bad. Now another pic exactly like david's looking at the switch :-(
the cog alignment is right, but if you remeshed the teeth differently the shaft with the black spring will need adjustment. The manuals have TMI with all sorts of dimensions and typos, but the short version is:
1] adjust nut E so the peg on A slides easily into the fork on the handle
2] adjust nut H for the 1/16" free play. That gives the handle some free movement at the start of the pull.
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Here is a photo of the switch.
I’ll adjust the black spring to your instructions. Thanks!
(https://i.imgur.com/1wvu3q8.jpg)
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hate to complain, but that pic is in too close :-)
need to see the switch stack too. David's pic is ideal ... or even further away as long as the switches are centered in the pic and not at an angle.
something is still wrong. The bracket B should be touching the stop plate C in the above pic and the switches closed like in david's pic, not curved way past normal like they are now.
in your pic, if B moves further toward the front, the long blade with the nylon lifter attached looks like it will touch the fat metal bar. That would be bad.
there should be a brown nylon/plastic roller on the peg under your electrical tape. If it's there, the tape isn't necessary. Where you would need tape is on the fat metal bar to stop the switch blade from touching it (or bend the fat bar further away), but ideally figure out why the switches are not aligned correctly.
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There’s a possibility that the switch mounting bracket is from another machine.
Or it has been bent to a position other than 90°.
Refer to attached photo compared to the arrangement on your machine.
This bracket could be adjusted back with a little force or possibly move the stack to the other side.
Close examination of the situation may result in a simple solution.
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This machine continues to give me a headache.
I tried to adjust the spring and nuts to the specs on the instructions.
Several times, it would play 60 spins, then handle would get stuck at the bottom.
As of now, it is getting stuck every time. I tried putting the cogs back to where they started, but made it worse.
(https://i.imgur.com/GpaVzmk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LErbze3.jpg)
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The stop lever trip bracket is part of what causes the reels to spin.
When out of adjustment the handle will travel to far and jam.
In most cases the bracket is flush to the back of the case.
A simple test would be to place a small washer on the bracket
causing the trip lever to activate sooner.
Using tape or magnetize the metal washer.
Adjust accordingly.
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below images are the side view of what david said.
if the handle bottoms out before the pawl (O in manual diagram) slides off trip lever (N), you're wedged. Moving the stop bracket per david's instructions makes the pawl slide off sooner and kick off the spin before the handle hits the bottom of it's travel.
if you want to see the video the pics came from: http://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/videos/Windup_and_Kick.m4v (http://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/videos/Windup_and_Kick.m4v) ... however, the handle isn't being used so if the stop bracket was too far left it would still kick when doing like in the video, but the handle would bottom out before the kick when in the cabinet.
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btw, there's still something wrong with your dashpot switches. Below is another pic from someone's machine. His game has a single switch, but notice you the blades are more-or-less vertical like in david's pic and you can see were there's room for the second set of blades.
your switch stack is too far to the right for some reason. Is there another set of holes to mount the bracket to the reel mech frame or do you have extra spacers on the stack?
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Thanks for the detailed posts. I made some
Small adjustments to the stop bracket. It took a few tiny adjustments- too far back and the reset did not kick in.
I’ve played like 100$ and made my kid play for an hour. Seems good now.
That switch bracket did not have other mounting holes or a spacer.
I think the lower spring pulls too hard causing the dashpot to get too close to the switches. I tried a spring from another machine.
As of now I bent the switch slightly and it helped with the short.
Thanks again for all the help!
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I noticed another issue that might help with the dash pot switch.
The rubber bumper or the lack of is causing the assembly to travel to far.
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but the link (B) is not even touching the stop plate (C). If that was positioned like the manual says, the dashpot switch would be a little bit worse than it is now.
it looks like his stop plate is cocked a little, but even if straighten to reduce/remove the gap (red circle), the dashpot switches are still bending way too far.
something is wrong ... it may just be the bracket the dashpot switch is mounted to is bent/twisted and bending it vertical with an adjustable wrench will fix it. Can't tell without a picture from further back and more perpendicular to the side of the reel unit.
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A couple of things that can be done about the dash pot switch bracket.
1. Make a small 1/4 inch spacer 1/4 and tape it over the rubber bumper to see if it makes a difference.
2. Using an adjustable wrench, place it over the dash pot switch bracket at the end near the switch.
Tighten up the wrench and apply pressure in a direction to realign the switch.
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1. Make a small 1/4 inch spacer 1/4 and tape it over the rubber bumper to see if it makes a difference.
I don't think this would help. The U-link, arm and latch pawl at the bottom rotate independently of the black trip lever. When you pull the handle, you push the U-link back and eventually the latch pawl hits the trip lever and starts rotating it clockwise off the rubber pad.
the last pic in post 16 shows a reasonable gap between the trip lever and the latch pawl. If the rubber pad was missing, the trip lever would rotate further counter-clockwise and make the gap smaller. If it made the gap disappear, that would be a sorta problem, but the U-link would hit the stop bracket and stop the trip lever counter-clockwise rotation anyway . It would wear the stop bracket, link or pivot points eventually, so they put in the piece with the rubber pad to hold against the high spring force.
assuming all the correct parts are on the game, your [2] solution seems to be the only one that makes the U-link touch the stop bracket and the dashpot switches be aligned correctly to the U-link pin so there's no chance they can short or be over-bent.