New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT PE and PE Plus Poker Games => Topic started by: Ncovington100 on April 17, 2016, 06:55:29 PM
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Thanks Badbaud for your help. There was actually a vertical hold adjustment pod in the area of the circuit board you referred me to that did the trick. Screen is working great now. I have all lights, sound and payout functionality but a few issues.
Do you know where I could find or download a manual for this machine at? I have figured out the menu settings however I cannot find the "Jackpot Reset Button" anywhere. I am sure it is right in front of me. I am also battling the coin acceptor. I can get it to work sometimes however cannot figure out how to manually add credits as when the door shuts it automatically resets the credits back to zero. Any help in the right direction appreciated. Thanks again for helping out a stranger on the screen.
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....I have figured out the menu settings however I cannot find the "Jackpot Reset Button" anywhere. I am sure it is right in front of me.....
I don't think it is a "button" but is a switch that requires a key to turn it. See photo below for location of jackpot reset switch on a PE+, the location may vary of some machine models but it is normally easily available on the right hand side of the machine (when facing it) so the casino folks can reset the machine after a handpay event. Yours may have been removed and the 2 disconnected wires are inside the cabinet. Can you post a photo of the side of your machine?
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I don't think you can manually add credits to the machine with the door open and then keep them when you close it. That feature is for troubleshooting. For normal play you will need to add credits by inserting coins with the door closed.
Badbaud may have a better one but just in case, here is a manual that I think is for your machine:
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There is a photo of the machine above in the chain. Please let me know if that is the correct angle or if I should take another one.
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yes, I saw your earlier photo, but it doesn't show the right-hand side of the machine, plus it cuts off just above the top of the monitor, we need to see the upper top area of the right-hand side of machine, and a photo of the inside top area of your machine looking into the right-hand side area. That may be where the wires for the reset switch are.
Also, you probably already know, but just in case, the sound level (volume control) for your machine is an adjustment wheel on the top edge of the mpu board, see photo below. Also, the white pushbutton is the Test/Diagnostic menu switch.
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If you can post a photo of the inside of the main door, showing the coin acceptor area, we may be able to see something that is causing your problem with coins being accepted.
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@rokgpsman, thanks a million for that Manual. I could not find one anywhere. Greatly appreciated! I have attached a picture of the top right of the door. It looks very different than yours. The challenge is that all of the menu options require pushing the "jackpot reset" button to select functionality.
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Just found the key. I was looking on inside, not out. Problem is, I have no key. Is there a suggestion on a bypass or installing a toggle or something?
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The reset switch is technically a "keyswitch" since it requires a key to turn it, but everyone just says reset switch and we all know what it means. Most of the time these switches use what is called a "2341" key, you can find them lots of places like slot machine dealers, parts sellers and even on ebay. Since you don't have a key for it you can remove the 2 wires from the inside connection to the reset switch (should just slide off the switch terminals) and connect the wires to any type of on-off rocker switch until you can get the correct key. Even an automotive switch from Walmart would work.
The wires should normally not be connected together (called a NO switch or normally open), then when you want to do a reset you connect the wires together for a second or two with the switch, then disconnect the wires by turning the switch back to OFF. On the wires is a very low voltage, will not hurt you but you shouldn't let either wire touch the metal chassis of the machine. You can even just touch the 2 wires together manually to do a reset, but that will get old pretty quick.
If you can't get a key for your reset switch you can easily replace the entire reset switch with a new one that has a key when you buy it. There is a large hex nut on the inside of the machine that holds the reset switch in place. Just unscrew it and the entire reset switch comes out.
Attached below is a photo of what a reset switch looks like and here are a couple of examples of places to get them, plus most of the slot companies on the NLG homepage should be able to sell you one:
http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=56&product_id=773 (http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=56&product_id=773)
http://www.spininc.com/02562-0 (http://www.spininc.com/02562-0)
and here are a couple of examples of the 2341 reset key:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Attendant-reset-keys-2341-/121746934761?hash=item1c58aecbe9:g:H0UAAOSwHnFVu6z- (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Attendant-reset-keys-2341-/121746934761?hash=item1c58aecbe9:g:H0UAAOSwHnFVu6z-)
http://www.spininc.com/01465-0 (http://www.spininc.com/01465-0)
The easiest & lowest cost thing to do would be to order a 2341 key and not have to replace the reset switch. In most cases the replacement 2341 key will fit your reset switch, but I can't guarantee that since someone may have changed the reset switch before you got the machine.
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@rokgpsman, thanks a million for that Manual. I could not find one anywhere. Greatly appreciated! I have attached a picture of the top right of the door. It looks very different than yours. The challenge is that all of the menu options require pushing the "jackpot reset" button to select functionality.
Glad you can use the manual, they do come in handy for those they like manuals, a lot of people don't like to read them but I always do.
That photo I posted was a PE+, they are different in some ways from your PE model. I think the IGT history on video poker machines was they made the Fortune I, then a Fortune II, then the PE and then the PE+ models. Each one is similar to the one before it but with some differences & improvements as time went by. And the earlier machines of each model were a little different from the later ones of the same model. Sometimes it is a little hard to tell which model a person has, that's why we often ask for a few photos to be sure.
<plus we just like to see pictures, text messages can get boring after a few dozen each day> :garfield:
Check the instructions in the manual, sometimes they let you use either the reset switch OR a pushbutton on the players panel, like MAX BET, to accomplish the menu choices.
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Thank you all, what a great forum. You guys helped a ton! I ordered those keys and will cross my fingers. I will attack the coin receiver issue when I get back in town and try to figure it out further then maybe post again. I hope I can repay the favors. Thanks again guys.
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I was able to order the Jackpot reset key on Ebay for $3. It works great. Thanks again for the guidance and link to this. Much appreciated.
After trying various potential resolutions I am completely stuck on an issue with the coin input and credits. I have attached some pictures of my current mechanism. My issue appears to be from that of a magnetic plunger that pulls in the redirection real. It keeps kicking coins to the return. I can rig this to allow them down the correct chamber however the machine will not recognize the credit. I have went through the system self test. It does trigger the red light on the coin acceptor. The manual credit button is also working in diagnosis made. This appears to be a mechanical issue. I will likely need to hunt down a replacement mechanism.
Any ideas?
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It is difficult for me to see your coin mechanism (called a "coin comparitor") clearly, is there a coin installed in it? It has to have a quarter or other coin or metal token to work. When a player inserts a coin into the machine's coin slot the coin comparitor compares it to the coin that is installed in the coin comparitor. If they match then the player's coin is accepted and it falls thru to the optics boards located below the comparitor. If the player-inserted coin doesn't match then it is rejected and it falls into the coin tray on the front of machine. The coin or token that is installed in the coin comparitor is called the "sample coin" and it must have one installed.
You are correct about the "plunger" thing. It is called the "rake" due to its appearance. It is in the coin's path, held in place by a spring and will reject the coin unless the coin comparitor circuit board accepts the player-inserted coin as valid. The rake is then moved out of the way by the rake solenoid coil and the coin falls thru to the coin optics boards below.
Also, on the front of the coin comparitor in the lower right corner is an adjustment screw, you can turn that all the way CCW to reduce the rejection sensitivity to a minimum setting.
Below is an example of a coin comparitor with a coin installed.
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If you do have a coin installed into the coin comparitor then you may have a bad comparitor but there are other things to check before replacing it.
The sample coin in the comparitor needs to be inserted so that its left edge is in the groove on that side of the mount. And the sliding cover needs to be fully to the left and the sliding cover's screw shouldn't be loose. If you are using a metal token instead of a quarter then the token has to be the correct type that is compatible with the coin comparitor, has to be "ferrous" so it can be electrically sensed by magnetics.
Can also check that the connector going to the left side of the comparitor is connected correctly.
Just to make sure we understand your problem, you are saying that the inserted coin keep falling back into the coin tray on the front of the machine? (there is a related problem where the inserted coin keeps going to the overflow chute inside the machine instead of into the hopper. Want to make sure this isn't what you have going on).
I've lightened your photos so we can see them better, others here will have ideas and suggestions soon.
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Thank you so much rokgpsman!
I decreased the sensitivity on the comparitor- I was able for the first time to get a few credits to show up. it is still very picky, maybe 50% of the coins hit the hopper instead of being rejected. Heading into an appointment however I will check the cover screw and ensure it is not loose again (it did not feel like it was). Their is a director that is attached to what appears to be a thumbscrew (it is not but appears to be). It seems a bit loose and may be causing issues. I tried to secure it in place all the way up however that did not seem to help.
Any other tricks I am missing with machines that are a little picky? The electronics seem to work, my guess is that it is mechanical alignment or something of that nature.
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It sounds like your comparitor is rejecting coins when it shouldn't.
From looking at your photo I'm not sure your sample coin is inserted properly into that groove where it fits but it may just be the camera angle. I'd try inserting a different sample coin, the one you have may have become somewhat magnetized. Are you using a quarter for the sample coin? If the coin comparitor isn't able to properly and consistently measure the magnetic properties of the sample coin then the player-inserted coins won't match and will get rejected.
The sensitivity adjust should be all the way CCW.
The thing you call a "director" sounds like the little lever at the top of the coin comparitor. It is a black lever with a round chrome weight screwed into the right-hand end of the lever. It is for dampening reasons so people can't insert several coins too quickly and overwhelm the comparitor. You can remove the round chrome weight simply by unscrewing it to see if that helps your problem, won't hurt to remove it. If removing it doesn't help I'd put it back on. It doesn't do anything electrical, it just slows down the player-inserted coin so the comparitor has time to compare it to the sample coin.
The coin comparitors are normally very reliable. But if you decide to replace it you will want to be sure to get the correct model, there are many different ones. Most of the time the cost for one isn't much. Generally you tell someone what type of slot machine you have and they can tell you what coin comparitor to get. Yours may have a model number on the label or back somewhere, usually they are some variation of the CC-16 coin comparitor but even with that there can be differences, so it is best to ask & make sure before buying one.
See notes on photo below:
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Ok, really appreciate it. I feel the dampener may be slowing the coins down too much causing them to get stuck as well. I will keep working on micro adjustments. The picture I sent you actually did not have the comparative coin in it, so you are correct, it was missing. I am guessing there is not a particular way the coin needs to face as it is checking for metal content etc. My machine is a nickel machine. I know how to change the settings to a quarter if you think that may be beneficial for any reason.
Thanks again-
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two things I see wrong with you comparitor! in the first picture, that spring that is hanging down, one end not connected to anything, it has to be connected to the sliding part .this holds the sample coin in place.
second item, second picture, it appears that you have a black spacer in the track of the sliding sample coin. that is usually installed as use of a large coin, the spacer prevents the sample coin from setting where it should be.
Hope this helps
Jim
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Good catch Jim! I bet that is what's causing his coin-in problem.
Ncovington100- the spring is what keeps the sliding cover in place, covering as much of the sample coin as possible and keeps the nickel from moving around with vibration. When using a nickel the coin will nearly be completely covered by the sliding cover. The coin comparitor should work as well with a nickel as it does with a quarter and you are right, the sample coin can face forward or reverse side out. I think when you get the sample coin correctly mounted into the groove and properly covered by the sliding cover it will start working like it should.
Below is an example comparitor with the spring in the right place and a nickel inserted as the sample coin. Notice how the nickel is nearly completely covered by the sliding cover. That sliding cover contains the round copper-colored magnetic sensor, it needs to be over as much of the sample coin as possible to get an accurate and reliable measurement.
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Ok, really appreciate it. I feel the dampener may be slowing the coins down too much causing them to get stuck as well. .......My machine is a nickel machine. I know how to change the settings to a quarter if you think that may be beneficial for any reason.
Thanks again-
The dampener probably is slowing down the nickels too much. Your comparitor was probably setup for a quarter machine operation long ago, the round chrome weight on the dampening lever looks like the bigger one used for quarter games. For nickels they use a smaller chrome weight since a nickel weighs less than a quarter.
You can remove the round chrome weight from the lever, just unscrew it with your hand, and the nickels will likely flow past the lever better. If your machine works fine with nickels and you like it ok there is no need to change to quarters, especially if your machine's glass, coin insert slot, and hopper are for nickel play. If you convert to quarters you'd need to change all that stuff.
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Thanks all, my spring was stretched out. Until I can find a replacement I made one with a heavy band. Great heads up on that spacer. I read something about this in the manual. My nickel us not. Overed ad far as the picture sent. Ok. Going to find and remove spacer, and possibly remove weight knob. Will let you know if it works. It is currently accepting about 2 or 3 out of 5.
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You can probably cut off some of the spring and form a new loop on the end, the tension is not that critical. Just as long as it keeps firm pressure on the nickel it should be ok.
I think you are on your way to a repaired machine, Jim's experienced eye came thru!
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Ok, I have pulled out my hair on this one and have come to the conclusion that the comparitor is likely not working. I have the spring tension just fine now and did check for a spacer, I was not able to find one on my until and it looks just like the unit on the picture sent. the comparitor is covering a majority of the nickel and I have adjusted the set screw in a bit on the nickle guide (left corner) to allow for nickels being played to come through without jamming. Does anyone know where I could buy a new one and see if it would help me?I am getting at best 1 out of every five nickels to show up.
Additionally I have broken something while trying to resolve. Now none of my hold buttons work, I have ran through the self test and confirmed everything is working aside from the Holds 1-5. It appears I am making it worse here.
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don't panic, you probably knocked off a wire from the switches, they are in series, so either end of loop I would check for a dangling wire. as for the coin comp. are the nickles going into the hopper and not establishing credit or are they being returned to the coin tray? if the hopper, the coin encoder is probably for a quarter and may be missing one of the optics, if the coin tray, try and shim out the rake and see if it improves, if it does then you probably need a different coin comp.
Jim
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Jim's right, the optic boards have spacing for their sensors that is often set for quarters. With the machine using nickels the smaller coin might not always be passing thru the optic boards at the right place so it can be sensed. Just something to check. Sometimes people place a guide made of something non-conducting like plastic or a dry sponge between the optic board pair to force the nickel to fall in the right place. You can inspect the optic boards to see how it is setup.
When you get a machine that is new to you there are sometimes a few problems to run down. Since you've been working with the coin comparitor I'd start on the button problem by carefully looking near the coin comparitor area for a wire that got pressed or pulled out of place. The pushbutton switches have wires for the button switch and other wires for the button lamps.
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Jim, Rokgpsman,
Well after countless hours I am still at a loss on this comparitor. Unfortunately will working on it some of the wires came out of the plug that goes into the comparitor from the harness. I tried to remove/re-solder but did not have success as the wires are brittle. Is there a source I can go to for a new comparitor and wire lead to the harness? Additionally I have still not found the issue with the hold buttons. I guess I can continue to troubleshoot that issue while trying to hunt down a comparitor.
Any ideas on where I can order parts are greatly appreciated.
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Most of the vendors on the home page will have parts.....
You will want a CC16 coin comparator.
The buttons all share a common - ground wire. If you have a working button of any variety follow its ground wire to the next button and so on.... There is a break there some place.
The diagnostics on the first screen should allow you to push buttons and see whats working and whats not.
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Perfect, thank you. There were a few of the ground wires not connected (which was strange as it was working for quite some time) likely they were touching just enough. They insert over the pin towards the top right of the buttons correct? (assuming your viewing it from the inside of the machine). I have been utilizing the test screen.
Here is the interesting part. It is only the hold buttons that are not working. the first two and last two buttons (bet credit and spin buttons) are still working. Does this seem normal if the hold buttons are not working??
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I haven't shopped for a comparitor but they are available from several places since they are a common part. The NLG homepage has several slot parts vendors listed, and companies like Rudy's, Spin Inc, Central Valley Slots and Ohio Gaming also have them for a range of prices. They can even be found on ebay. When searching for them you'll see that some people spell it as "comparator" instead of "comparitor". Pretty sure that "itor" is the correct way but both are used.
I *think* but am not positive that the color of the wires going to the rake solenoid is an indication of the voltage of the comparitor within the CC-16 model. When checking on buying one you may want to tell them what machine it is for. From your photos it looks like those wires are gray. I may not be thinking correctly on this wire color idea, others will hopefully say one way or the other.
Jim at MidWest Slots has been helpful on your problem so he is familiar with your machine and situation. You might send him a PM asking if he has a comparitor you could get. Here is his contact info:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=profile;u=39 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=profile;u=39)
and here are examples of the various comparitors available. Notice that the color of the wires on the left side of the plug near the center of the comparitor that goes to the circuit board are sometimes gray, green or other color:
http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=39 (http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=39)
http://www.spininc.com/search?Q=cc-16&As=true&As=false&Cid=0&Isc=true&Isc=false&Mid=0&Pf=&Pt=&Sid=true&Sid=false (http://www.spininc.com/search?Q=cc-16&As=true&As=false&Cid=0&Isc=true&Isc=false&Mid=0&Pf=&Pt=&Sid=true&Sid=false)
The various versions of CC-16 coin comparitors can vary by voltage, and they sometimes have machine-specific traits like an "inhibit" signal, sometimes abbreviated as "INH". So there are several different coin comparitors, you'll have to be careful to get the right one.
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On your player button problem, maybe if you posted a photo or two of the bottom of the buttons and the wiring going from one button to another we can spot something. It is hard to imagine what yours may look like and offer ideas.
The Hold buttons are connected to a different circuit than the Spin and Credit buttons. So whatever has happened to the Hold buttons isn't affecting the other ones.
I think there is an electrical safety ground wire, probably green color, that goes to a post on each button. It is required for the machine to meet UL electrical code but it doesn't affect the buttons working or not. It's just there in case an electrical short were to happen and voltage got on the metal chassis. If those safety ground wires are not connected the buttons still work ok. The wires to worry about are the ones that slip on the flat terminals on the bottom of the pushbutton, they often have pink colored crimped on connectors, sometimes called "spade" terminals, but your machine may have a different color. These buttons are wired together in "series", like the old-style Christmas lights, if just one wire comes loose then several buttons stop working.
As mentioned earlier, each player button has 2 sets of wires. One set is for the button lamp, the other set of wires is for the button switch. On your Hold buttons is it the button lamps that are not working, or the Hold switch itself.
As you are learning about your machine you will need to use caution when working on it, can be frustrating to cause additional problems.
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Thanks all for the help on both fronts, I have been in touch with Jim and he is going to help regarding a new comparitor. Now I must go attack the hold button issue that I have created. Wish me luck, appreciate the insight on the wiring. It is definitely tight wiring back there. I will likely have to get into it a bit as I have tried the obvious. Thanks for that ground explanation, totally makes sense.
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If you want to post a photo of the player button area wiring someone here can probably point out the wires you need to check.
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Right on, will do Rokgpsman . Jim did you get my direct message? It is not showing in my sent files so I am wanting to double check.
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To reduce the storage requirements on the NLG server the default setting for Sent messages is to not save a copy in your outbox. When you send a PM there is a little box in the lower left corner you can check if you'd like to save a copy.
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Got it, thought I was losing my mind. Thank you.
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Hi Jim, is this a shot of the optics board you were referring to?
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yes it is, for the imonex to work in your machine, clip one lead of CR1 (diode next to the resistor beneath the 555 timer). Also, remove the token laying on the diverter.
Jim
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Hi Jim, I clipped the bottom of CR1, hard to see in pic bit clipped. They all go directly to the coin return, nothing towards a credit or to the hopper.
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I am pretty sure it is something elementary I am missing with the imonex unit. Even out of the machine I cannot get it to route to the optic slot. They come out of the right side only
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I know why the unit is not accepting the coins, I sent you a 25 cent accepter, and you are using nickels. I'll see if I can find a nickel accepter. or if I can get yours working.
Jim
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Ok, thanks. I have already cut the diode so at this point an Imonex for nickles would be best. I would like to avoid trying to resolder and ruin that board as I dont have expert soldering skills.
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you don't have to worry about that, the unit will never know the difference, it will work with a Imonex or a CC-16 just as it is.
Jim