New Life Games LLC
Monitor Repair Log and Database. **Arcade and Gaming** => LCD and CRT Monitor Repair Tech Support => Topic started by: shortrackskater on June 06, 2016, 03:18:29 PM
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I'm working on an older Game King. The LCD monitor is just blacked out, but the touch screen works and the game plays.
When I press and hold the power button it will come on briefly but go off after about one second.
I've never worked on an LCD before but could this be simply the power supply or some other issue?
I'm not sure of the brand but the model number is GD-S17-11G. JVC?
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Been there, done this.....
In the LCD monitor there are 2 "CCFL" tubes, very small long florescent tubes at the top and the bottom of the screen.
Here is the test, with the machine running, kill the power to the display ONLY.
Wait about 5 seconds, reconnect power and watch for picture.When it reappears wait for it to disappear again.
If it lasts from 2 to about 10 seconds, then goes away....Tubes.
If it flickers, gets brighter and dimmer,..... Inverter board.
HOW TO REPAIR......
Simple. Carefully disassemble the monitor, remove the tape around the touchscreen.Look at the end of the monitor chassis, you will see the wires going to the tubes.They sit in a thin metal "Channel".Look for the one very small screw that holds that channel in.Remove that screw and slide that channel out.From the vendor of your choice (I buy them from AG&E) a "Universal" LED kit that you cut to the right size and slip in there.After you get this done, you will need to apply tape around the outer edge of the touchscreen.It's a special tape, like a nylon cloth with adhesive.Cost is about $16 a kit.I have done this to 17" Uprights,15" Bartops and 19" slants with 100% success rate.It's looks GREAT when your done.After this, you wont need that invertor board anymore,you can remove it.Inside the monitor is a circuit board, look at the 5 electrolytic caps on it. They are 470Mfd 16 volt. If they look puffy on top..replace them all with 470Mfd 25 volt caps.The screen shot is a 15" Bartop I just repaired, it's brighter and sharper then others I have seen.
Kirk
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Thanks Kirk!
That's great. This sounds like it might be not so bad.
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I have a few more to do this week, will post detailed pictures of the innards of LCD monitors, the driver boards etc etc. These will be the Wells 1590's.
Also have a few of the old CRT's that I need to recap.
Kirk
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When I was there I did power it off (it has an independent power button) and after leaving it off for about 20 seconds, then powering it back up - I get a display for about two seconds, then it goes off.
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Thats a sure fire sign that the tubes are shot.....
Do the LED mod and never have to deal with that failure again.
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Using flexible LED strips this time.....
VERY easy to do. This is a Wells G 1590 for a bartop....
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Inside the wells monitor is a digital board, it has 5 470Mfd 16 volt caps and 3 10Mfd 16 volt SMD caps that fail....
REPLACE THEM!
The ESR meter will test them "In Circuit", no removal required. Leave good ones alone, rip out bad ones.
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Picture #1 the bulging caps....BAD indication....
Picture #2 the old cap..short leads..see the 12 ohms reading..this thing is shot.
Picture #3 the new cap before install...see the LOW ohms...less than 1 ohm.
Most video display problems are usually crapped out old Electrolytic Caps.
Recapping will bring most of them back to life and like new, CRT as well as LCD.
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Could it just be caps and not the tubes?
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No, when they light for a few seconds then go out it's usually the tubes.
If it's the inverter, that costs more than the LED conversion, AND you need to do the caps anyways.
Best to go in, fix it right and not have to screw with it again.Should get another 7-10 years out of it.
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I'll give it a shot. THANKS for all the detailed pictures too.
I'm doing this for an acquaintance so I hope I can get it done somewhat easily, but I know this will be good for future repairs!
UPDATE: Unfortunately I wasn't able to do this and post results, if anyone's wondering!
But hopefully this thread will help out if anyone who wants to try the tube to LED changeover. :applause: