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**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Electromechanical => Topic started by: bobmueller on April 08, 2017, 09:44:57 PM
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I now own a Bally 873 5 coin slot. Very much like the one in Nurbo (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=profile;u=60)'s post. It's got some issues and hoping I can find some help here. I'll post some youtube demos of the operations and failures but wanted to find out if anyone is listening before going through that.
[size=78%]A list of what's going (roughly in order of importance) on follows.[/size]
1. [size=78%]Coins are just dropping through to the tray. First coin will sometimes get stuck, a second coin will push it through. Occasionally the gods bless a quarter and it operates normally.[/size][size=78%] [/size]
2. I think it's a managers key or some sort of reset key that is broken off. Directly under the handle, operates a lever switch.
3. Top panel doesn't seem to have power.
4. Sometimes when closing the door it will shoot between 5 - 25 coins seemingly at random
5. Door is "wonky" barrel key won't come out (I can get it out with the door open). Likely just an adjustment. Owner just left the key in the side. - I suspect that this machine got dropped off a stand
6. The internal counter on the reels doesn't advance.
7. There are yellow wires that have been clipped all over... think they are service lights. There's also a black and strip black green wire exposed on the hopper... also something used in the casino?
8. The bell sounds like a moose.
9. During testing I hit 3 bars and lost track of the payout... Bell rang continuously, clicking the managers key switch didn't do anything. Then the machine went dark... nothing working until I pull out the hopper and put it back in again.
10. Where does one get contact cleaner on a Sunday now that radio shack is dead?
Thanks in advance Bob
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To bad you are not in Vegas, we have a shop that repairs older EM's
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A good cleaning and I've got the coins slot working properly. Seems that the bleu plug on the hopper wasn't seated right. That fixed. Still don't have top illumination but the coin counter is working. Not sure but I don't think the line indicators on the play field are lighting up. --- hmm should have read the FAQ on lighting before posting this. Exact issue and fix is right there!
New question - how can I make the odds of winning worse before my poker game? ;)
https://youtu.be/AwE23tDnsyk (http://youtu.be/AwE23tDnsyk)
Note that I'm missing 4 bulbs on the top.
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The coin mechanism, remove it, blow out with compressed air then give it a try. If that doesn't work there are two adjustment. The first would be to back out the magnet adjusting screw 1/8 of a turn. This moves the magnet closer to the coin thus slowing it down causing it to fall in the right direction. The second adjustment is on the opposite side near the bottom. It's a slide lever with a 90° bend on the end. This assist in kicking the coin left or right. Note this very seldom needs adjusting as its on the inside an never gets moved unless the screw becomes loose. When reinstalling the coin mechanism, sometimes the coin reject mechanism needs to be depressed to slide under the jack shaft that is operated by the red or chrome coin release button on the front of the machine.
Wouldn't be to concerned about the reset switch with the broken key near the bottom right of the machine.
Re: top lights, if it's the fluorescent lamps that are out, give them a slight twist and or remove them completely and reinstall, being sure the pins lock into the copper clamp pin holders.
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I confirmed that I've got 6 vac at the transformer...whew.
The #44 are out... not the tube lights.
Which pins on the beauplug are supposed to have constant 6v? Which pin on the hopper controls the coin lockout coil? I still have to seat the hopper a couple of times before that works properly.
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Re: lights, either the bulbs are bad, no power or they are inactive until coins are dropped in the machine.
Would it be possible to post a photo of the machine front .
Beau plug pin connections very so it would be hard to say what pins control what.
Look for the solid blue wire, that would be the 6vac.
Did you get the coin mechanism working?
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Yes, that was a pin issue too. Well, still kind is but I know where the problem is. I'll like to all my shots as soon as I get them off my cam.
It's always the blue wire... thanks so orange = 50 yellow = 30 and blue = 6?
What's the preferred method for dealing with a loose pin. I thought about hot glue but that's not going to hold up with 50lbs of quarters slamming into it. Expoxy?
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The pin will slide out of the plug or is it just loose?
If there is a couple of vacant pins you could move the wire(s) to the unused pins and socket receivers. I would do this first if possible.
Epoxy may work or super crazy glue.
Also if the pin slides out. You could remove it and try to expand it just enough to make it fit tighter.
Pins are locked in and you might have to deal the little self locking mechanism.
Or add solder to it to make it slightly larger. Solder would conform to the opening as its soft enough to assume shape.
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Too late to swap to an empty. I'll go that route if/when the epoxy fails. I think my fix will work for now. I found out one of the wires on the convenience outlet was stripped from the hopper sliding in and out and traced that to some really crappy crimp work. Same goes for the wires that run under the coin mechanism. Short story long I ran out of wire. Guessing in the field it was faster to crimp but I'm going solder and shrink where I'm making changes.
I've seen others as the question about the bulb on the back side of the light board never an answer...what's is it there for?
Issues remaining
1. Wiring clean up.
2. Door lock doesn't close.
3. Top big tear in laminate that is laid over other laminate.
4. Buff out doors.
5. Replace or fix the bell.
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The bell might need the striker adjusted away from the bell or the contacts inside need cleaning.
Pretty sure you can give the striker a little tweak outward. Some one might of tried to lessen the sound by bending it in.
As for the light behind the light board, I have a machine with that same light. One of these days I'll bench test that unit to see what's up. I've found it a good practice if it aint broken don't mess with it.
There is a small relay right next to the light in the machine I have. My guess would be it something to do with the 777 jackpot, like a indicator. Or just there for resistance. But these are just speculation on my part.
Mr. Reno, Jon or Jim may have the answer.
Good the hear you are making progress on the machine.
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The 455 light bulb attached to the small relay makes a flasher unit when it's in Jackpot lockup the lights around the outside on the top Flash on and off from one set of Lights to the other that's what that small light bulb and relay are for the only way to test it
Is jackpot lockup set up a 777 pay see what the relay and not like do
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Thanks Jon,
I just got this machine about a month ago and noticed that light and small coil. But didn't check it out.
Although I did get lucky last week and got a natural 777 on the top line.
Nice machine for 150, just needed some cleaning and was surprised that everything worked.
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So I've gone through the beauplugs pretty throughly and I can't get lighting on the topper. In the process of tracing the wiring... arghh! The bell? some genius thought that cutting the striker was the best way to quite the bell.
I have a #455 bulb but no coils or relays. Must be resistance...
Do not follow my path epoxying the plugs! This turns out to be not so good when you loose the play in the pins. I had trouble getting the line box seated initially. I was able to get my hand back far enough with the female loose and fit it on to the back of the line box and tweak the pin alignment but this wouldn't work out to well on the hopper or reels. Got lucky.
I see 6vac at the transformer so I know there's power.
I got a meter on the line box and found 4 pins on the left (if looking at the front) beauplug. First 4 horizontal pins BTW. Did a manual advance on the line box and measured again but didn't see anything change on any pins... seemed unusual.
I did have to move the yellow wire that controls the coin slot lock out on the hopper. Despite the time and effort I couldn't get this one to work reliably. That said I'm thinking I have the same issue with the lighting sockets.
Here are some pics:
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Hi Bob,
Nice to follow along in your Bally 873 repair journey! My machine had the same problem of continuing to pay on 3 BARs, then shutting off—I think one time it did pay out correctly, then was ready for the next game.
A couple questions for you: does your machine ring the bell on the fifth coin? Also, does your bell ring on any payout, not just 777s?
I could swear those machines rang whenever there was a win, and am wondering if it'd be an easy adjustment.
Thanks!
s.
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I thought I read there are settings for the how bell rings... but I've read a lot lately so might be another model. Mine was only audible on bars since the striker has been cut. I think the payouts are working correctly everything I've counted out has been correct and not enough spins to hit too many big ones.
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Did you try taking a good 6 vac solid blue wire on the door and jump it to a solid blue on one of the top unit bulbs?
Or try connecting the meter on the solid blue and the solid yellow beau plug pins coming out of the top unit. Continuity should be a good sign the unit 6 volt wiring is good.
RE: the bell striker could of broke due to stress.
Might want to take a good look on that side of the machine, there is a slim chance the other portion is in the machine.
You can set up a payout by stopping the clock fan after the reels kick off.
Stopping the clock will put the machine into neutral, then stop the reels wherever and let the clock finish its cycle.
Be careful of the inside metal edge that holds the reel tape, it will get you.
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Dave
I got continuity between blue and yellow at the top of the box. I removed the plugs from their mounts so I could get to the wires while it's got power and I see 6v. Also checked continuity across the plug and no issues. I don't have any bulbs on the doors working including the insert coin light. I don't see any power at the sockets. All new bulbs. Dunno pretty weird.
On the bell... No luck.
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I'm assuming the 6 v fuse is good if there is 6 volts up to the top unit beau plug and the bell moans.
Is the reel glass dark on both side along with the insert coin and coin accepted lights?
If this is the case check the Molex plug on the right side of the door between the hinges.
Trace the solid blue and yellow from a light socket back to the molex plug. ID the pin location and test for 6 volts coming up to that point.
If the outer lights do come on then clean the payout relay contacts normally located on the hopper.
After that if they don't work clean the Coin Relay Contacts on the lower left side of the reel mechanism.
Also the "C" switch is part of the insert coin light circuit.
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I can't contribute with any technical insight, but if you'd like photos of my 873 machine for comparison, I'd be happy to post some.
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Relay contacts are cleaned on everything. I flopped the 5amp fuses just to prove to myself they were good yep. I get continuity in all the molex pins. I'm seeing 12vac at the blue and yellow wire... not 6 like I thought. I decided that was normal. Still no 6vac lighting in the door or anywhere. Only illumination is the fluorescents.
Briefly lost the hopper then readjust the middle switch in the A cluster of group of three on the reels. Or second in from the right. When I put the switches back together this one was a little twisted. A tweak with a needle nose got it back.
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Possible break, bad connection in the Solid Yellow or Blue wire for the lights.
Check the schematic attached.
Locate a good Solid Yellow in the door, jump it to a yellow on insert coin socket for testing.
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Awesome. The manual I have doesn't have this schematic. Have a great Easter.
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Please be careful. Your schema shows a 10-2 wire going to bell. That means it is the 3rd use of a solid red wire. Solid red wires are also associated with the 120v circuits. Do not assume all solid red wires are 6v. You know what happens when we assume shit.
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Ok... there was some light but some odd things going on. If I jumper the hopper full switch (tilt switch?) to the common on the 1st coin light in the door I get top panel lighting. Lights work as expected up top but I don't have the insert coin light or the other one in the door. Also when jumper to the 1st coin light only the first and fifth coin lights light up. I'm not able to find either a blue or yellow wire that will illuminate the insert coin light.
Where should I be looking for a break? Everywhere I test I get connectivity.
[size=78%]https://youtu.be/FLfSo6VpaQ8 (https://youtu.be/FLfSo6VpaQ8)[/size]
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Okay looks like the machine is running great and just a few bulbs not working.
Did you say the machine was sitting for a long time? If so the bulbs and sockets may have an oxidation layer on them.
Make yourself a test bulb (see attachment) by adding a layer of solder to the side.
Clean the bottom electrode on Levi material or light fine sandpaper.
Try it in few of the the non working sockets and the insert coin - accepted.
This will help eliminate the sockets and bulbs 99%.
Also a slight squeeze on a socket will add pressure to the side of the lamp.
Be careful removing the front belly glass, If its typical, two screws inside the door hold it to the machine.
The one on the left is visible, the one on the right is behind the wiring and a little hard to get to. 70% of the time the right one is missing.
Screws out the frame will move out on the top, this is where to be careful. (On occasions the frame will be stuck in due to sweet drinks spilt on the machine.)
Slide the chrome frame up this holds the glass in place. Its possible the glass will come with the frame.
Or it may stay resting in the lower part of the frame.
Make sure to have control of the glass at this point as it will just be resting in place by gravity.
This would be a good time to clean the fluorescent lamps and the glass inside.
***Big caution on glass cleaning*** Be careful as the screen printing ink has become unstable over time and might come off very easy.
Even soap and water could damage the glass, so test a small corner and proceed with caution.
I always place glass face down in a safe place to avoid scratching light holes into it.
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David actually the 1-5 coin bulbs all work. If you jumper the common to any of them they light up. However they do not work when the jumper is on #1 in the door. Top will work if jumper is connected to any of the coin bulbs.
I'll verify all the bulbs again. I'm thinking this maybe more then one wire.
Ya this sat. I think based on evidence that it fell and hit the floor and didn't work correct anymore then sat out in a garage or on the floor. Might have even flooded. There's some rust.
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So you needed to supply a common for the lights to work up top.
The bottom also works except for 234 coin and this is with the jumper connected.
So it appears that there is a lack of a common connection for the bulbs.
And a lack of signal or bad connection for down below.
Good work narrowing that down
In the top unit you tested the yellow and blue at the beau socket and they were good 6.? volts.
The step unit will advance with every coin correct? Indicating the 54 volt orange is working. As it receives a signal from the coin in switch common yellow / red wire I believe.
The solid common yellow for that unit may be disrupted within the unit.
Have you cleaned the step up unit contacts, wipers and receiver rivets? One of the units function is to advances and resets the odds light display. No yellow no lights. Check out the video, I have two pertaining to the odds unit.
I use contact cleaner and q-tips on the wiper and cardboard on the contact points.
When I say cardboard, I'll rip a layer off the corrugated center layer, cut it about 3/4 x 4 inches and fold it the long way to make a cleaning tool. Has a little tooth to clean and absorb dirt.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Io10MEzmnYE&sns=em
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Hey much success just now. AFTER undoing miles of electrical tap to trace out the yellow wire I noticed where something had been spliced inline (they cut our a bunch of things there are splices like this all over) with a set of yellow and orange wires and this was snipped. They tied the orange wires back together but not the yellows. After I tied it back together I got top lights.
I cleaned the switches on the reels again and I'm getting intermittent Insert Coin and Coin Accepted lights. If you tap the door sometimes they come on... might be in the molex as this was cleaned again too.
If the line unit is lighting up properly and the coin lights in the door are still not working right (except for 1 and 5)... still have dirty contacts on the line unit. Also the winner paid doesn't come on. At least on coin two there's no voltage at the socket. I'll take another shot at cleaning it. I'm using some 600 grit sanding film. It's wet sanding, plastic backed sandpaper that's thin enough to slide between the contacts and high enough grit that nothing gets damaged with a pass or two. Also, I made up a cardboard and stick on sandpaper tools that get "down in there".
About the belly glass... I've got some pinholes in the black but nice color otherwise. I'm not opening that until I have an issue. Right now it's working fine. Not sure how to deal with that at this stage.
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Great progress on tracing down the yellow wire. Now that the top line unit lights works.
Set up the second line / coin on the top unit then follow the wire down to the reel glass second line light. See where it breaks continuity.
Do the same for the 3rd and 4th.
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David - seems like the remaining issues are either relay contacts or plug issues on the reels.
Occasionally - especially if the hopper runs the insert coin light and accepted light will work. At one point I had everything working but coin 2 on the door. I played about 10 - 15 minutes and 1, 4 and 5 on the door are stable. 3 is iffy. The bulb was missing and swapping a good one in I've yet to see it work. I've got 55&63's coming. I'll get it. I'd never have got here without your help. Thanks.
What do you recommend for the door issue. Lock won't turn far enough to release the key. The door also wont close all the way unless you pull it closed. The sliding tabs on the door side look like they have about an 1/8 too much travel. Someone ground one side of the washer that stops the lock from rotating. I don't know if just cutting the catches is a good idea or if there's way to adjust the door.
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Update... reseating the line unit got the coin lights on the door all working. Now just missing the insert,accepted and pay out lights. All on the reels from the info you've given me.
Can't tell if it's the plug or the contacts. But darn close.
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Bend the door lock tabs out with shaft of screwdriver.
Push in on door by coin in slot to free up lock.
Sounds like you have bad 30 wire to the door re- your intermitent lites.
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All 3 of those door lites go through payout relay switch 45 to 30 wire. Make sure that sw has enough tension in N.C. Setting
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I created an issue. The coin accepted light is on constant.
From these pics can you see what I've got bent the wrong way?
Here's a youtube vid of the current state of affairs...
https://youtu.be/LniCIrTaTco (https://youtu.be/LniCIrTaTco)
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Make a little paper tent and hang it over the contacts in question. See second photo.
This will help identify what they control.
The contacts on the coin relay switch are temperamental. Check for continuity on the solder joint when possible.
Putting the meter probes on the blades can cause a false positive reading.
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UPS brought the bulbs. I replaced all my 63's and 55's. Fuse pops after a few minutes. I replaced with a 7.5 and it's fine. New bulbs just draw more? Old bulbs? Something to stress over long term?
Also looking for a pic of the "Reset pawl" switch. From my docs it appears that's located on the hopper. (?) My winner paid decided that it should stay on. At this point you've got the most complet tut on the lighting system on the internet... We may as well finish it;).
Is it possible to buy these switches/relay contacts anywhere? Whatever the white residue is wasn't good for these parts. And I'd like mine to look more like yours. Hard to believe the rarity parts given the zillions of these that were produced.
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The small bulbs I keep in stock are 44, 47 and 63s. Not sure if the bulbs would cause the fuse to pop.
***Double check this,*** but most of the fuses I've removed are 8 amp.
Re: pawl switch is associated with the payout step up unit. It pushes the winner paid contacts open when it resets after a payout.
When the handle in pulled.
Contact adjustment and or lubrication of the mechanism may help. Slight chance the reset coil / plunger are weak or dirty inside.
Switch and coil in located on the opposite side of the spiral cam. You can manually step up and reset the unit to check out the contacts.
The picture I posted is not typical of older machines. This machine is from 1979 and had a short, which in turn caused it to just sit.
Its like brand new inside and out.
As you work on the machine clean that area, eventually the whole machine will be clean. lol
Try vinegar or some type of light acid on a small area, see if that removes any of the deposits.
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I was just about ask for a little more help and thought I'd take a few shots of the switch in the hopper... then I tweaked it one last time and tested. I can't believe this is all working. Lots of dopamine flowing right now! The hopper light is the only thing left... I'll get that...how hard could that be right?
[/size][size=78%]https://youtu.be/LniCIrTaTco[/size]
Not sure if it's stable or not but I know where/what the issues are likely to be.
I can't thank you enough for all the help and the walk throughs.
Looking at my machine build 7/5/78 and the documentation that I have it's supposed to have #55's in the coin lights for the door. All other door lights are #63's. Top unit is all #44's. Some of these looked original and were stamped so I'm pretty sure that info was accurate. Same documentation lists 5 amp fuses for the first two and an 8 amp in the last position. I've heard mention of 5,7.5,8's and even 10 amp fuses in here so I'm not really that concerned at this point. It was actually was running through most testing using a 2 amp fuse out of some cigarette plug for a gps... we do dumb stuff in a pinch.
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Great, glad the machine is 99%.
In summary the cut yellow wire and cleaning did the trick.
What is the last remaining problem? You mentioned something about the hopper.
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Last lighting problem was the courtesy light... I said hopper instead of tray.
Lots more cleaning then just cleaning and a snipped yellow. Let's not forget about moving pins, epoxy and where not to use it, wire tracing, relay testing, cleaning up splices, adjusting the coin slot and pay switch....
For the future:
Door - the lock mech is worn out and drops the latches too far down.
Pin holes throug the belly glass graphics.
Can we verify the correct fuse sizes?
I blew a fuse 7.5 amp on a 3 bar payout but after a couple of them. Is it a 10 amp?
I've never seen the outside ring of lights go on.
Next round:
I think it's over paying. I'm headed to the bank to get a stock of quarters so I can stop opening and closing this door. I'll chart out the pays but I think it pays an extra 2 on straight lines and 5 extra on a diag. And maybe it's just me but it's like it hits payouts way too often. Not like a false payout but too rich.
Was getting some weird hopper behavior because the blue side of the coin accepted light was touching the door frame so closing the door shot like 3 or 4 coins and more as soon as you pulled the handle 15-20 more on each pull. Something else shorted.
The rivets are all pretty dull and you can see a black line through each. I hit them with spray but didn't know how to move the wiper. I found these tech notes... But I need to get my head around how the payout works.
http://www.myslotnotes.com/Slotfiles/bally%20troubleshooting%20guide.pdf (http://www.myslotnotes.com/Slotfiles/bally%20troubleshooting%20guide.pdf)
I've never manually advanced the reels...didn't want to break anything. How do you do it?
And I just found the attachment box... How did I not see that...grrr. I went and added all the pics I posted wrong for posterity.
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Fuses, see photo.
Send a photo of the door latch problem.
Outer star lights come on with 777s, then the machine automatically shuts down.
Door short could of been fuse problem.
Hopper running, Humm... could be a few things.
Clean the wipers by pulling them back out of the way. Or remove the reels from the reel frame, the wipers will slide forward.
Remove reel mechanism from machine, push air cylinder "J" shaped lever half way, this should move the wipers back.
Unlatch reels, slide back and up. Push J lever all the way to release the wiper arms. Clean wipers, stop index arms and rollers. This also gives better access to the reel mechanism shafts and levers. When finished reset wiper arms have way then replace reel, be sure the square notch on the reels shaft is in the forward position. Test a few time.
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After cleaning up the wiper boards and the relays on the real and then I cleaned up the payout traces and wipers on the hopper. I'm still getting weird payouts. I see one spot where they laid down some solder on a trace but the repair looks ok and its on the 18 pay line.
A cherry in the 3 line with 5 coins in always pays 15. Two cherries (second center or in line) also pays 15. Plumbs on 3 line pays 15. Bells 19. Bars 103.
Cherry pays 7 in the second coin line. Two pays 8.
Cheery pays correct 2 on first line and correct 5 with two.
My first reel was dragging against the clevis that stops the reel. Once it spun freely I seem to get fewer payouts... Feels right.
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I've got a payout issue.
Always playing 5 coins:
Cherry on reel 1 third row will pay 15.
Two Cherries on line 5 pays 15.
Cherry on line 1 pays 4
Two cherries on line 1 pays 8 or 15
Plumbs, Bells and Bars almost always kicks 1-4 extras.
Cherries on the 3 coin line pay correctly.
From what I've read the extra coin is a hopper adjustment or something sticking.
Not sure if the payout issue with cherries is payout wiper on the hopper or elsewhere. I read a set up procedure for the hopper that describes indexing the wipers 9 clicks to align with the break in the traces. Then clicking to 10th wipers aligns with the 15 trace so I loss ended the screw and backed the wipers off so that they were dead center in the dead spot better. No change and I verified that the wipers didn't slip back.
Oldreno - fixed the door thanks is to you. I used a channel lock on the catches to pull them forward and align them with the door. The threaded stud needed to be ground down a little so that it stopped binding the arm. Door is sagging but it's livable and I can get the key out.
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Extra coin could be a coin stuck in the hopper shute from the previous payout.
When cherries hit on the top or bottom line the machine also pays on the diagonal line.
This would account for the additional coins.
The payout step up unit attached to the hopper steps up once for every coin that rolls under the roller.
Step up unit contacts should move onto the metal strips when the first coin goes under the roller.
There is a possibility that someone moved some wires on the reel wiper boards causing the over pay.
Like the cherries being wired to the plums 14 coins. This is very unlikely, but not to be ruled out.
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Payboard only steps after the coin exits the roller. IOW, on the upstroke of either the coin out solenoid or mechanical step linkage.
Always look at where your payboard fingers are after a misspay. This will tell you a lot.
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I've been cleaning and tracing out the wiring and pretty sure I've got everything working correctly as far as the contacts go. Hasn't solved my issue.
I'm getting double pays on cherries on first reel all lines or 15 coins with 5 in plus a bunch of other payment issues.
I've been looking around and found this post http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=27065.10;wap (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=27065.10;wap)
One of the suggestions in this post was to index the hopper wiper 200x and see if it will go that far. I get to 163 and it stops. The pics are missing and I'm a little unsure how to go about setting it correctly.
Here are a couple of pics - I can get better ones up as these were really helpful in the case above.
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Spreadsheet contains the last 30 spins and the symbols for each reel
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The machine is paying correctly if it's a 5 line machine. 3 horizontal pay lines and 2 diagonal pay lines.
A single cherry on lines 1 or 3 pays 2 on the horizontal line and 2 on the diagonal line equalling a total of 4.
Would it be possible to attach photos of the reel glass and top glass. It may have the wrong glass.
Oranges usually pay 10 and plums pay 14, but if they are combined with a cherry (ies) on another pay line
it adds to the payout.
Nice spread sheet!
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It's paying right on some plays wrong on others. Oranges are paying 14 not 10 and 7's causes a hopper run on since it's only winding the wiper to 163.
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Too much tension on your torsion spring will cause it to bind up before 200 steps
Back it off quarter or half turn & try again.
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I was fearing playing with any of the springs but once I dropped the pay board and rewound the spring the payouts were perfect +1 coin. Then the arm that pushes the coins out bent somehow and wound up letting coins slip behind the plate in the hopper. So it would seize the hopper trying to payout the first coin. Solution was to pull that apart the coin bin and bent the arm back into shape, then had to reset the payout disc because that moved when I was wrenching on the bin and walla payout perfection!
The only issue I have left is that the coins don't always run up the disc in the hopper... they miss sometimes to the point where it takes 30+seconds to pay 7 coins. I saw some suggestions on how to address that... I'll have to look if it's a big issue down the road.
[size=78%]Thanks to everyone that helped out, provided feedback or pics! [/size]
Now on to cosmetics! Hmmm to leave the "patina" or clean it up like new...
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Add more coins to the hopper, see if that helps on the pay problem.
Detailing the exterior makes a big difference. The chrome plating cleans up very nice.
*********Also be carefull when cleaning the inside of the glass, just simple soap and water will remove the graphics [size=78%]In some cases.*********** Test a small corner first.[/size]
Take a photo before starting the clean up, just to compare.
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The chrome cleaning is coming along. I thought I was going to need to rechrome the tray and replace the belly glass frame. Really glad I gave them a try.
Using steel wool and a polishing kit from Amazon for motorcycle header pipes.
I need some advice on
1. Getting the dents out of the bezel
2. Restoring the yellow striping
3. Something's hitting the reels when the door is closed. Would someone post a clean shot of the inside of a door?
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Push on reel glass when reels spinning - probably hitting on your insert & coin accepted lights shield...
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I put in a couple of hours of cleaning and these shot don't do it justice. Still some bad spots and lots of goop in the yellow channels. Ran out of scrubbing bubbles. Like the switches it'll be 4 or 5 cleaning attempts before it's done done.