New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: Bomackey on May 27, 2018, 01:09:26 PM
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I picked up my next project yesterday, a S-Plus Double diamond, the background is unknown, supposedly it had been used a few months ago, but we all now how that goes. Anyway I got the 12 code, I checked the battery voltage and it was severely dead 02.3MV, I put in a new battery, and got the 61 code. I pushed my test button and got the ding, and the 61-1, I shut the door, and when I turn my reset key, it stays in the dreaded 61-1 loop. What is the next step to trouble shooting this problem? I have been reading the forum, trying to figure out out myself, but I don't want to mess up more than I fix. as Always, help is greatly appreciated.
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Have to clear chip 61 loop unless you get real lucky like I did once by switching to a different (newer be best) SP chip.
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you only waht to use a clean as a last resort.. I think your going to need to use a #15 set chip to clear this error.
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Amechanic, I agree with you, I dont really want to do a complete clear, if it doesn't need to be done, I will look into the #15, thanks
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Well things have took a turn for the worse, I was trying to find the ends of my cash box door switch, now I have almost no result when I power on, no reel jump, and nothing in my display is lit, the only thing that happens is my bill validator cycles
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look for coins in power supply and under mother board happens a lot
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Markb, thanks for the input, but I got it back to where I started, the power supply lug wasnt making good contact
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Check to make sure your door optics are aligned. The reset won't work if the machine thinks the door is open. Generally the 61-1 will clear and then go back to 61 when you're in the loop. Your set 15 is used to enable the bill validator. If that molex connector for the power supply has a burn spot on the back, you'll need to replace that also.
Dave
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I will take a look at them shaggy, would the cash box door switch have any affect on it?
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Yes if you tied off the wrong ends or the wire is cut farther down. That will work just like the door optics. They're still optics and the machine will see the door or doors as open. You said it was kinda cut up. I would trace it back to 2 complete leads and tie it off there. Make sure it's not unplugged on the other end. That will still show an open circuit.
Dave
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Here's a pic of that power connector back side with the burn mark. Our vendors have them available.
Dave
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Wow I just replaced a burnt molex connector and the burn mark was on the next (3rd) pin.
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The whole thing is, if any one of them is making a bad connection, there will be a failure. I've only seen the green ones with the burn mark.
Dave
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Bomackey, I replied on your other post. My S+ machines have 2 green wires going to the cash door optics.
Dave
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Just checked 6 s+ machines, some have two green wires, and some have one green and one green with blue tracer.
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Well I guess he'll have to make a choice then. Probably isn't going to hurt either way. There's a good possibility that the other wire isn't hooked up at all. There's like a zillion of those in there.
Dave
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The whole thing is, if any one of them is making a bad connection, there will be a failure. I've only seen the green ones with the burn mark.
Dave
it was doing some very strange things when getting intermittent power.
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Dude they do strange things when they are making an intermittent connection. That burn mark is where the connections have been arcing. Like a light bulb not quite tight enough in a socket. It will flicker. Things powering up and down will do strange things.
Dave
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Yes if you tied off the wrong ends or the wire is cut farther down. That will work just like the door optics. They're still optics and the machine will see the door or doors as open. You said it was kinda cut up. I would trace it back to 2 complete leads and tie it off there. Make sure it's not unplugged on the other end. That will still show an open circuit.
Dave
O.k Shaggy, I traced the Green/Blue wire down, it runs up to the center of the machine and goes into the connector with the optics for the main door, so I assume I know to tie into that wire, but the next thing is I am not sure which green wire to use for the other, I have 2 cut off green wires coming out of my plug, one I assume goes with the yellow/black wire that the other end is coming from my pull handle area, so I am not sure which green to use.
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Well it sounds like your door optics and the cash can optics may be both cut. What a mess. I'm guessing someone got a battery error (12) and then started cutting wires to try to bypass the optics. Which of course doesn't work. The cash can optics on yours had 2 green wires. Try tying those 2 together. And shut and latch the door and try the reset key. If still no go, we may need to get the door optics checked out, as it sounds like they may be cut also. This isn't a lost cause, but may take some time to trace out.
Dave
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Well shaggy I wired the green and the Green/Blue together, it gave me the 61, I pushed the test button, and it gave me the 61-1, then it went back to 61, and will not come off of that, if I push the test button, the 61 disapears from the display, and returns a couple of second after releasing the button.
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So I have all of the cut wires put back together, but it still stays on 61, and will not go to 61-1. If I take the mpu from one of my other machines and put in it, should I not be able to use it?
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I've done that before and it is a great way to check it out. Obviously reels etc. won't be right but if the machine comes on and plays, you'll know the trouble is in the MPU. Now if it is a working board and you get an error like a door open, then I would still say optics.
Dave
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Hi again shaggy, I actually tried the MPU out of one of my other S-plus, and I still cant get past the 61 error, and I know the swapped MPU is good. I even tried pulling the CMOS chip out for 10 seconds, I got the 61, pushed the test and got 61-1, then it went right back to a 61 again, now its like it was before, it stays on 61. I also pulled the optics out of one of my other machines and put them in the project, with no change. I installed the project optics in my good machine and they work fine. So I am stuck again.
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Hi again shaggy, I actually tried the MPU out of one of my other S-plus, and I still cant get past the 61 error, and I know the swapped MPU is good. I even tried pulling the CMOS chip out for 10 seconds, I got the 61, pushed the test and got 61-1, then it went right back to a 61 again, now its like it was before, it stays on 61. I also pulled the optics out of one of my other machines and put them in the project, with no change. I installed the project optics in my good machine and they work fine. So I am stuck again.
So the 2nd mpu did the same thing in the 1st machine but works fine when put back in it's original machine. Did you have to clear a 61 error when you put that board back in the 2nd machine?
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I have actually tried the MPU from both of my other S-Plus and got the same result, yes I did get the 61 when I replaced in the original machines, but I cleared it right up and the games went into play with no problems
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So the MPU from #1 clears the error and works in #2?
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If you are asking if the MPU from my project machine clears and works in my known good machine, I have not tried it in there, I am kind of afraid it would disable my good machine, then I will have 2 that needs to be fixed. Do you think it would cause any problems if I tried it?
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I can't see where it could hurt your working machine. I bought one one time not working and tried the board in a working machine and when it didn't work I new where the trouble was. Regular board went back in and worked fine. I guess my point is, if the known working board doesn't work in the project, I still think there is some wiring issue inside the machine. Check the project board that all the chips are facing with the notches correctly.
Dave
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Well shaggy I bit the bullet and tried the project MPU in one of my good machines and it powered up and played, so that rules out a problem with the MPU. What are your thoughts on it maybe being a bad Mother board?
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Sweet! Now we're making progress. And at least you've ruled out the mpu. I was thinking the same thing a few minutes ago. Pull the mother board up and check for a coin possibly shorted out under it. Look for a burn mark. You can always swap mother boards too. Let's rule out the boards before you start digging into wiring. I hate digging into wiring.
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I had pulled the motherboard loose enough earlier to check for coins, and did not see anything. I actually have it laying here on my desk now, I am going to look it over and try it in one of my known working machines.
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I know some of this gets kind of tedious. Glad you're sticking with it.
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It will get to a point where it makes me mad, and I will fix it, just in spite, LOL
So I put a known working Motherboard in the project machine
I used the MPU from the project
I powered up, and the reels spun and stopped
I close the door, I do not get the normal reel spin that would normally happen, but the #3 reel will spin really slow for no reason
the insert coin light is on
i will not take a coin, but I can open the door, used the button on the coin comparitor and i can add 3 credits, and with the door open, I can hit spin reels and it will spin and stop.
I am getting a 5 in the winner paid window and a 1 in the coins played window
the 5 will stay for a few seconds, and then it will goback and forth between a 42, and then back to a 5 and so forth
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The 42 is a reel 2 tilt. Open and close the door should clear it. Do you have a copy of the error codes and resolutions. I know this may be moot but do you have a sample coin in the comparator? You're getting closer all the time. Sounds like the mother board was bad. You might even try opening and closing the door a few times.
Dave
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Yes, I have a copy of them, and I also do have a coin in the comparitor, I am not sure what is going on with the 5 and 1 popping up
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Yeah I'm trying to look that up. Have you tried pushing the test button and cycling it through until the end? Maybe its in the test menu somewhere.
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I had a weird thing happen once. Either reel 2 or 3 kept giving me a reel error. I opened the door with the power on and turned that reel a few clicks back and then shut the door which made the reels spin to correct the one that was off. It never did it again.
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woohoo I got to play!!!
I messed around with it and the 42 went away, then I got a 41, LOL, I pulled the reels and re-seated them, #2 was in a bit sideways and I thought maybe it was binding up somewhere. I got them straight and it everything cleared and the reels spun and the insert coin light popped on. Well I was trying tit on tokens and it took my 3 and spun like it should, I played about 10 minutes and it payed a few times, so now I know I either need a mother board, or have my worked on. The problems I have now is no sound at all, whether it is during reel spin, coin in, or when I hit something on the payline. Also the handle hung in the down position when I pulled it.
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O.K. my bad on the sound, the volume was all the way down, LOL, I messed around in the handle solenoid area and it released and is working at this time
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woohoo I got to play!!!
I messed around with it and the 42 went away, then I got a 41, LOL, I pulled the reels and re-seated them, #2 was in a bit sideways and I thought maybe it was binding up somewhere. I got them straight and it everything cleared and the reels spun and the insert coin light popped on. Well I was trying tit on tokens and it took my 3 and spun like it should, I played about 10 minutes and it payed a few times, so now I know I either need a mother board, or have my worked on. The problems I have now is no sound at all, whether it is during reel spin, coin in, or when I hit something on the payline. Also the handle hung in the down position when I pulled it.
Fantastic! You can have that board worked on but they are readily available from our vendors. I always have a couple of extras around for times like these. Contact member Badbaud, he works on boards and can give you a price. Now if you will push the test button until a 4 shows. It will flash the numbers of your SP and SS chips. When you removed the cmos chip you probably cleared the machine. Get you SP chip number and download the PSR for that chip (downloads section). You'll need to enable sounds etc. after the clear. If this is the machine with the wires cut to the handle, it's probably because the solenoid on the handle is bad. You can buy that also from the vendors. You may want to check voltage going to the solenoid to make sure it's getting power. But it is usually up until energized and pulled down, so I'm guessing it may be bad. I believe it's Rum and Coke time on this end. Good job. I just read your reply, you type faster than me. If you're happy.........Cheers!
Dave
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LOL, its to late to get my numbers now, I have already pulled the motherboard and put it back in my good machine, I will prob wait a couple of weeks before I proceed with the board, as I have a $1 Double Red, White and Blue ordered that should be here this week, so I will be playing with it. The best I can tell on the handle, the cut wires went to the activation switch on the handle, not the solenoid. as of right now, the handle seems to be working well enough. I have sound, I have payout, the hopper works, the only thing that is acting up is the bill validator, it will pull a bill in, but not accept it.
Shaggy and everyone else, I appreciate the help, hopefully after I get my motherboard repaired or replaced, I can handle the rest on my own.
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You may still want that set 15. It works for most of them for setting the B/V anyway. But there's time for that. At least now you know where you stand with it.
Dave
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very true, I normally
just run tokens in my other machines anyway, except for my I-game plus machines
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I realize that this topic is marked as solved, but I want to throw out there that if you had a 61 loop (61 --> 61-1 --> 61, etc.) that a RAM clear chip (not a SET 15) is needed to clear the EEPROM data on the motherboard. The motherboard itself is likely okay, it's just this is one of the rare times that a RAM clear chip is actually needed, as it clears out the data on the EEPROM on the motherboard.
Just to make sure that everyone is using the same terminology, the MPU board is the removable processor board which contains the SS and SP chips, and has the volume control on it. The motherboard is the smaller fixed board in the bottom of the machine that the MPU board plugs into. The fixed-in-place motherboard contains a small EEPROM which contains data. If that data is corrupted, a RAM clear chip that is installed on the MPU board is used to completely clear it out.
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Hi Knagle, I am sure you know more about the motherboard issues than I do, But I went ahead and bought a known good used board for $35, so if I need it down to road, I can always pick up a clear chip and use it, if it works then I will have a spare board to use later in this one or my other S-plus machines if needed., Thanks
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O.K folks, this topic needs to be reopened, I got my board earlier this week, I installed it, and it does the same as my original board, so I guess I am going to have to end up doing a clear on it, I didnt want to have to do that, but I think I am out of choices. Can anyone tell me #chip I need on my Double Diamond S-plus?
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The RAM clear chip you need for your IGT S+ machine is an IVC 123 chip -- pretty common and easy to find. Since you have a bill validator, you'll also want to get a SET chip (such as a SET 15) to re-enable the bill validator after the clear. You should be able to get the set of two chips for less than $20 from a vendor here or from eBay.
There's nothing to be afraid of with doing a RAM clear -- we just warn people not to jump to that step if they have an otherwise working machine, as you'll have to go through and enable the bill validator, adjust settings as desired, etc. A lot of people run into simple errors and immediately think they should just do a RAM clear to fix whatever their minor problem is, and it winds up creating additional work for them. For that reason, we try to dissuade people from believing that the RAM clear is the cure-all (because it isn't). In your case, you need to do one, and it's no big deal. You'll likely get instructions with your chip, and if not there are sticky FAQ topics here that explain how to do the process. Let us know if you have any issues.
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Thanks knagl, I got a set ordered, at this point I am thinking this is my only option in getting it up and running.