New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: CabinetDan on August 01, 2018, 02:34:13 PM
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I just got my first slot machine. It's a 1994 Double Spin Double Diamond. Looks like it should be an S-Plus. Somebody had already messed with the wiring, so now to try to get it running.
Here's what I got. Drilled out the lock to open it. Plugged in and the top light (arched top) and the display lights on the door light up. The bill changer cycles like it's doing a self test, then that's it. After I changed a blown fuse on the power supply, the reels "tensed up" but that's all.
There are 3 plugs on top with nothing plugged into them. I have one plug dangling that seems like it should plug into it. Above there are two "two wire phone wires" that are cut off. I believe 1 of them went up top to the rewards card reader. And the 2 wires that go to the switch that confirms the bill container is installed are also cut.
With the door closed and power on, won't take quarters (yes there is a coin in the coin comparitor).
Not even sure where to start. Any guidance is appreciated.
(edit to make some paragraphs)
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Welcome to NLG ! :wave: :waving_flag:
To get started the best thing to do first is post a photo or two of your machine. That way we can make sure of what model it is. And knowing exactly what machine you have will help us to answer any following questions you might have, without us having to ask multiple questions later.
Also, because this is all new to you then you will probably have a little trouble describing or using the correct terminology (until you learn more about it). So it is best to post photos of anything you aren't sure about, like the connectors you are referring to, or parts you don't what they are. That way we can quickly understand what it is that you are asking about.
These machines were originally built for casino use, not for private home use. So when the casino is done with them and they are sold there is often specialized equipment inside the machine that the casino removes and keeps. They don't remove the wiring cables for that equipment they remove because it is too much trouble. This means there can be cables and connectors inside the machine that are not connected to anything. These extra cables & connectors are often located in the topbox area, behind the top glass.
The disconnected cables usually do not affect the operation of the slot machine. That extra equipment that was removed isn't something you will need, it was stuff like player card tracking equipment or equipment that connected the machine to the casino network computer system or equipment that had to do with progressive jackpots. A photo will let us be able to tell you about it.
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Tense reels are a good sign.
Does the large center denomination light up ?
Is there any numbers in the coins played, winner paid, credits windows ?
What do the coins do when you pop them in - do they drop through to the coin tray or go to the hopper ?
PICS :Please_Post_Pictures_2:
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Thanks for the replies. The only lights are what I'd call display lights. Nothing on the winner or credit displays.
Here's a few pics. It's at work, so I can get more detailed pics tomorrow
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Here's the last of what I have so far
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From your photos I think we can say the following things:
The machine is an IGT S+. The mpu board is mounted vertically in the bottom part of the machine, it is attached to the other side of that metal tray that has the round black knob. The mpu is plugged into a small board below it that is called the motherboard.
The machine's bill validator is a DBV-200.
That small green circuit board mounted to the back wall is not important, it was for connecting the machine to the player tracking system in the casino. You can see that is has "Bally Systems" written on it.
When you take additional pictures try to use more light in the room and hold the camera steady, most of the photos are good but some are not very clear when enlarged to see details. Thanks!
If you don't know the history on this machine it is a good idea to remove the mpu board and examine it. There could be battery leakage or other damage to it. Just grab that round black knob and pull upward, may need to wiggle it to unplug it. When you get it out the mpu circuit board is attached to the metal tray with the black knob. Look it over, find the round battery and see what condition it is in. If you have a meter you can check to see if it has 3.6 volts DC, or close to it. Post a photo of the mpu board while you have it out of the machine.
Also, with the mpu board (and hopper removed) from the machine stick your head in there and with a flashlight look at the motherboard, see how it looks. Examine the white molex power supply connector that plugs into the front area of the motherboard. Make sure that white connector doesn't have any brownish area on it, look on both sides. Brown/burned areas on this connector indicate a bad electrical connection on that connector, this happens a lot on S+ machines.
Below is an example photo of the motherboard power supply connector that has a bad electrical connection:
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The large 25c decal in the middle should be lit as should the winner paid / credit window.
With the hopper out - machine on - I would look at the large white molex plug on the center of the mother board.
Try wiggling it and see if that 25c center decal lights up.
I would also pull all of your fuses and test them with a multimeter (for continuity) to make sure nothing is burnt out.
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I think this is the S+ information page for your machine. The glass shown on the info page is for a "flattop" style machine and yours is a roundtop but it looks to be the same game otherwise. Your mpu board will have 2 socketed chips, one is called the SP chip and the other is the SS chip. The chart shown at this link below lists the various SS chips that can be in your machine on the mpu board. The SS chip determines the player win percentage on the game (among other things).
http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%203CM/Game%20Library%20-%20S-Plus%20-%20Double%20Spin%20Double%20Diamond%20(3%20Coin%20M.htm (http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%203CM/Game%20Library%20-%20S-Plus%20-%20Double%20Spin%20Double%20Diamond%20(3%20Coin%20M.htm)
EDIT- the top glass in your photo appears to be the wrong one for this machine. The SS6193 chip on your mpu is for Double Spin Double Diamond and your bottom glass is also DSDD. But the top glass is Diamond Double (not Double Spin Double Diamond).
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...With the door closed and power on, won't take quarters (yes there is a coin in the coin comparitor).
Not even sure where to start. Any guidance is appreciated.
Just below the coin comparitor is a small circuit board called the coin optics board. In one corner of this board is a small switch. That switch is for testing purposes. Pressing it will add test credits to the machine. Try pressing it (with the main door open of course) and see if a credit gets added to the machine. This will tell you something about how the machine is or is not operating. If a credit does get added then press the "Spin" button on the front of the machine and see if the reels spin. If they do then you may have very little wrong with the machine.
Are the wires that you believe come from the cash storage compartment (or bill validator security switch) connected together, or just hanging loose? A lot of times the wires that go to the security switch on the cash can are disconnected from the security switch and the 2 wires are twisted together. This is a way to bypass the security switch and get rid of annoying errors. Maybe someone was trying to do this on the machine before you got it. Post some photos of these wires and maybe we can figure that part out.
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With the door closed and power on, won't take quarters (yes there is a coin in the coin comparitor).
Replace the sample coin, then jiggle the slide that holds the sample, shut the door and wait till the machine spins the reels. Then try adding a coin.
If that doesn't do it, rinse and repeat the "jiggle" of the comparitor slide. My S+ does this periodically if I don't play it regularly.
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OK, hopefully I'll hit on everything here. I have no history at all on the machine other than it's the victim of a divorce.
The DBV-200. Will that accept new style bills? or will I have to replace it? or can I even?
Battery is dead, so I'm assuming that's a place to start. I don't see anything burned anywhere.
The wires behind the bill validator are just cut. Not jumpered. Will see in pics. Perhaps the validator just didn't work?? The 25 cent lights up, but nothing else. pressed the switch below the coin comparator and it did nothing, Also changed the coin for what it's worth.
Here are some more internal pics
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Some more pics
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You are doing great on the photos. Yes, the dead battery on mpu will need replaced. You or a friend can remove the old one and solder in another one, pay attention to the + and - markings on the battery and on the board so that it gets installed the right way. If you aren't able to replace the battery yourself there are often battery stores in a city that have a tech that can do it for you. Places like Batteries Plus for example.
I see the cut wires on the white 'Cherry" switch. That's the large white switch with the big plastic plunger sticking out the front. When the front door of the machine closes it presses the Cherry switch plunger inward, and when the door is opened the plunger pops out. This movement of the plunger activates the switch contact inside. But usually on an S+ the door open & closed sensing is done with a pair of door optics parts. Does your machine have those? They are small round brass colored parts with 2 wires, the center portion of the optic part has a glass insert for light to pass thru. The door optic parts are mounted on the cabinet frame and on the edge of the door. If your machine doesn't have door optics parts perhaps it is old enough that the white Cherry switch is what it uses to know when the door is open or closed. In that case it will be important to restore the wires connected to the back of the Cherry switch.
The DBV-200 can be updated to work with some of the bills in circulation. Or it can be replaced with another DBV-200, or even with a newer bill validator system like the WBA models. You can remove the DBV-200 "head" (the black square unit that the bills insert into) from the machine and turn it upside down, there is a chip there that has a sticker that will tell you the version of the DBV-200 internal software. The version will be written similar to this: "ver 2.61". If it is working ok the DBV-200 will accept a $1 for sure, since they haven't been changed over the years like the other bills. And it will not accept the new $100 or new $5 bills since they were changed after the last software released for the DBV-200. The other bills ($20, $10, $50) will depend on the s/w version that the DBV-200 has.
But the bv is not the primary concern at this time. I'd suggest you get the machine working with coins first.
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The cut wires are on the switch that is activated when the bill "bank"? is inserted. Not the door cherry switch. I'm adding a better Pic of that. The only thing I can see that could be considered optics is the switch below the cherry switch. Also adding a Pic of that as well as the other side mounted on the door
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Also, can't find the battery with the solder tabs locally. No go at Batteries plus, so looking at a week to get it through amazon
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Ok, I see stuff better now with that last group of photos. Yes, those round brass-colored parts look like door optics to me. They should be mounted so they both come into alignment when the door is closed. You photos are taken close enough to the optic part that I can't tell exactly where they are mounted on the door and on the cabinet frame. But you get the idea how they should be mounted and work, right? One of the door optics is mounted on the metal sliding lockbar that latches & locks the door.
Can you post some photos of the inside of the main door, showing the coin comparitor and other stuff in that area?
.....The cut wires are on the switch that is activated when the bill "bank"? is inserted. Not the door cherry switch. I'm adding a better Pic of that. The only thing I can see that could be considered optics is the switch below the cherry switch. Also adding a Pic of that as well as the other side mounted on the door
If the wires that are cut are the 2 wires that were connected to a security switch near the cash compartment then those can be twisted together to connect them, then covered with a plastic wire nut or electrician's tape. (wirenut is better, won't come off as easily). The cash "can" that stores the paper money usually has a security switch (or security optic setup) so the machine will know if the cash can is removed. And the small door that opens to get to the cash can sometimes has another security switch that activates when the keylock to it is opened. These types of security switches often cause nuisance errors and many home users bypass them. There will be 2 wires connected to the security switch, you can disconnect the 2 wires and connect them together if you want to.
Do the wires connected to the Cherry switch look like factory-original IGT wiring? They may be for something else if your machine has door optics. Sometimes auxiliary equip that was in the machine when it was in the casino may use the door Cherry switch for something. And sometimes a person will try bypassing the door optics and use the Cherry switch as part of that mod. You can follow the Cherry switch wires back and see where they go.
The mpu batteries with solder tabs are available online, may not find them at local stores. I can post links if needed. And we may have some folks here on NLG that stock them, we have members that sell parts for machines and they keep stuff like that on hand. You don't have to use the battery style with solder tabs, can also solder in the battery that has ordinary pigtail leads, just trim the pigtails as needed and bend the leads down so they lay flat on the mpu board solder pads.
Here is a good website for viewing photos of slot machine parts. You may have to register to use the website but it is worth it. On some of their webpages along the left side of the screen you can select filters such as "IGT S+" so the website will only show parts for that model of machine.
http://www.spininc.com/07886-0 (http://www.spininc.com/07886-0)
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Yes on the optics. They match up when the door closes. Good call on the other switch. that went up to something on top and the wire is cut. So far as the switch behind the cash can, I haven't been able to locate where the original wire that got cut is. Will have to look more later.
I ordered a battery, should be here Mon or Tuesday. Could that dead battery be causing all of my problems?
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Generally a dead battery will only give you a code 12 on the display.
Check the back side of the white plug for burn marks.
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Yes on the optics. They match up when the door closes. Good call on the other switch. that went up to something on top and the wire is cut. So far as the switch behind the cash can, I haven't been able to locate where the original wire that got cut is. Will have to look more later.
I ordered a battery, should be here Mon or Tuesday. Could that dead battery be causing all of my problems?
As Proten said a bad battery shouldn't keep the S+ machine from working, or at least working more than it is now. But it needs replacing so good to go ahead and get it done. Since the battery is bad and the machine did not display an error code "12" on the front digital displays that could indicate a power problem or a board problem, like mpu or motherboard. Others here with more experience than me will hopefully give advice about that.
Do you have access to another similar machine or any spare parts for troubleshooting the machine with?
Generally, when you turn on the machine the fluorescent lights will come on, the reels will do their initialization spin and the front digital displays often show something. The "Insert Coin" lite comes on indicating the machine is ready to be played. You said earlier that with the machine powered on the reels have some tension, they don't spin freely. Like Jay said that's a good sign, it means the power supply is at least working to get that voltage to the reel motors. If your pushbutton lites are lit that's another good sign that voltage is being made. When you turn on the machine do the reels move at all?
Are there any disconnected or cut wires that look like they are part of the original factory wires and could be causing a problem?
Double-check the 3 fuses, one of them could have blown again from the work you have done so far. And over the years the round black fusecaps sometimes get loose, the metal part inside the fusecap cracks or the spring inside the fuseholder breaks, any of that can cause power problems.
Since you have a meter it may be needed for you to check some essential voltages. And with the machine turned on and the front door open you can try wiggling that white molex connector on the front of the motherboard that we keep mentioning. If wiggling it causes the machine to start working then that's a problem.
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ok. I have 1 blown fuse. I'll replace it in the morning and see if anything changes. I did mess with the while molex plug while it was on, no change. I switched fuses between 2 spots. 1 spot gives the wheels drag. the other spot, I get a slight static sound through a speaker in the door. Otherwise, it just seems like there is no power going to the door. Other than the 2 fluorescent light fixtures. Those go off if I pill the bottom fuse. Tomorrow, I will pull out all of the disconnected wires to help see things clearer. So, obviously, II need to change that fuse in the morning, but after switching them, I'm feeling doubtful that one being out is the problem. ie. something powered through 1 fuse switches something powered through the other one. But we'll see.
No, I don't have another machine to pull test parts.
Should I be starting to think about hunting down an MPU and mother board?
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A code 12 WILL prevent the slot from working.
I am concerned that he does not have anything in the winner paid / Credits windows that shows this.
This is why I asked for him to check the fuses.
In absence of the proper lithium battery (and I later bought a box of them from Wayne - A69mopar) I temporarily used a RadioShack battery holder with two 1.5 AA batteries. I had to extend the wires as there was not room in the tray to cleanly close it so it kind of hung out (bush league) until I got the proper battery but it did the trick temporarily. You can also find 3.5v lithium (quarter sized) batteries at Ikea but the holders are hard to come by and batteries don't take solder well. Its also dangerous to solder directly to a battery due to the heat can cause them to expand and leak or explode.
The white center Molex usually prevents the center 25c logo and other displays from coming on. I think we should focus on this until we get the tell tale 12 showing up in the display. Alternatively you can repeatedly press the white test switch and there should be a bunch of things that show up and cycle through. I predict none of that is working at this point.
The florescent bulbs or their starters (little metal can) could easily be burnt out so I would not worry about this either until you get your other displays lit. If your top box (reel) is lit - you can try moving that bulb down to the bottom and see if it comes on. To swap the starters you gently push down and turn there are two studs that hold it in place. It pops right out. You can get bulbs and starters at home depot. Like I said if one is lit and the other isn't you can figure out pretty quickly if its a bulb or starter or both.
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.....ok. I have 1 blown fuse. I'll replace it in the morning and see if anything changes. I did mess with the while molex plug while it was on, no change. I switched fuses between 2 spots.
Let us know which fuse (F# or which voltage) this was that blew. That could help to track down what is causing it to blow.
Also, be sure to install the correct size fuse when you replace it, don't just automatically put in whatever size blew. Someone may have installed the wrong size. There is usually a sticker next to each fuse that tells you what size the fuse should be.
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OK, morning update. And thank you all very much by the way!!
Apparently my theory about the 1 fuse not causing ALL of the problems was flawed. The center fuse 8A was blown. Replaced with a 5A and turned it on. Got the 12 code in the winner paid box. Then I had a AA battery holder here, so soldered that in ant got 3.1V to the board. put it back together. Code 12 gone, BUT got a b1 code now. Plus the "winner" light on top is lit up. Feeling a bit more optimistic today.
The closeup Pic of the code didn't come out. it is definitely a b1
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OK, make that a 61, LOL.
A little research told me to hold the self test button for 3 seconds. Assuming that that is the button below the coin comparitor, I did that and got nothing
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You've made good progress on this machine! :cool_thumb_up:
When you get a chance you will need to make sure all 3 fuses are the correct size. When the machine is operating fully and some extra stuff starts working, like the hopper or bill validator, or all the reels spinning then extra elec power will be used, so the 8 amp fuse (along with the other fuses) need to be the correct size. Using the 5 amp fuse in place of the 8 amp won't endanger anything but it may blow and be a nuisance for you. And as you know don't want to ever install a fuse that is larger than what is spec'd, that could allow wiring to burn up if there was a short somewhere.
The error display "b1" you are getting is an unknown error code to me.
Have you been able to press the little button on the coin optic board below the coin comparitor and put test credits on the machine? If so try pressing the Spin button on front to see if the reels will spin. EDIT- you won't be able to do this until you get the error 61 fixed.
Also, somewhere inside your machine is a white TEST button. This is the main TEST/Setup button for the machine. It is often located near or behind the power switch. You will need to find this white TEST button for some test/setup things later. If you can't find this white TEST button we can help locate it.
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OK, make that a 61, LOL.
A little research told me to hold the self test button for 3 seconds. Assuming that that is the button below the coin comparitor, I did that and got nothing
ok, error 61 is more like it! :yes: These are digital displays on the front of the machine, so the number shown can look kinda squarish. Remember, this is 1980's tech stuff. And sometimes there is a flaky connection and one of the display's individual segments won't light up.
The white TEST button they are referring to is NOT the little button on the coin optic board. There is another button that is the primary TEST and Setup button. Look inside the machine, maybe near the power switch or near the metal chassis where the fuses or wiring harnesses plugin, near the mpu board. And on some models it is behind the power switch, you have to feel back there to find it. EDIT- from your photos posted earlier I can see your white TEST button near the power switch.
Error 61 refers to the cmos ram data. It is normal for it to appear after the battery is replaced. Your research has probably told you what to do to clear the error 61 but if you need help let us know.
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Here is your machine's main TEST button (see photo below).
(that other button switch on the coin optics board is just for adding test credits to the machine, it doesn't do anything else)
Also, attached below is the handy IGT S+ Diagnostic Cards (in pdf format) that has just about everything you need to know to setup and test your machine. Look on page 7 for the error codes and what to do about them.
And here is a good NLG page showing S+ error codes and what to do about them:
http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/ (http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/)
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Small test button next to the power switch does nothing.
BUT.
now, when I close the door and hit the reset, there is a click, and the play lever unlocks. Get 9s all the way across the display, in til I pull the lever. then the "coins played" just counts upward to 5 as I pull the lever. The 61 goes away until it gets plugged back in
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Also the "winner" light on top still flashes all the time.
Do I need to get clear chips?
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Also the "winner" light on top still flashes all the time.
Do I need to get clear chips?
I know you are anxious to get the machine working, that's understandable, I would be too! But let's wait a bit to see what others here have to say. There are a lot of folks here that have lots of experience, it is good to hear from them to know what's best. Sometimes new slot owners get in too big of a hurry and cause additional problems for themself. Patience is sometimes needed when working thru the problems the machine has. You've basically woken this machine up from the dead, there will be a few things to deal with, and the CLEAR chip won't take care of many of them.
If you plan to keep this machine it is a good idea to get the Clear and Set chips because you may need them some day and the chips are not very costly. But you never want to do a Clear process unless it is really needed. It does NOT fix many problems and can cause more problems for the novice owner. So hold off on doing the Clear until someone here says it is time to do it. But if you want to buy the Set and Clear chips so you will have them if/when needed go ahead.
Take a few minutes and read this (below). It was written by one of the experienced guys here on NLG and is approved of by many others, so is important to know:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=516.msg1724#msg1724 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=516.msg1724#msg1724)
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Thanks. I did read that earlier. I get anxious when there is progress, even though I still have other work to do to it. I just don't want to start cleaning it up and relaminating the outside until it works properly
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Small test button next to the power switch does nothing.
BUT.
now, when I close the door and hit the reset, there is a click, and the play lever unlocks. Get 9s all the way across the display, in til I pull the lever. then the "coins played" just counts upward to 5 as I pull the lever. The 61 goes away until it gets plugged back in
This sounds like you have actually entered the TEST/Setup menus and have the machine in one of the diagnostic tests. Or you have entered the "Stat/Bookkeeping" mode. When you press the TEST button (by the power switch) the front displays should show you the menu steps, they are numbered. Pressing the white TEST button repeatedly will step thru the various menu pages. You can close the main door at any time and that will get the machine out of the "Test/Setup" mode, no need to worry about exiting it the wrong way. The reset switch is used within the TEST menus to do certain functions. See the IGT document for your mpu board's SP chip.
The TEST menu steps your machine has will depend on the SP chip that is located on the mpu board. There are 2 socketed chips on the mpu, one is the SP chip and the other is the SS chip. There should be labels on the top of the chips with the IGT chip number. If you know your SP chip number then we can give you the information about what your machine's Test & Setup menu steps and options are.
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Thanks. I did read that earlier. I get anxious when there is progress, even though I still have other work to do to it. I just don't want to start cleaning it up and relaminating the outside until it works properly
Some of the knowledgeable folks here on NLG that help answer difficult problems have businesses that keep them busy. And others have daytime jobs. So often these experts aren't able to login and help until the evening time. So sometimes it can be a few hours or even overnight before you get the good advice and suggestions needed. I've gone about as far as my experience can help, so let's be patient and see what the other folks have to say. You've done well so far and your machine's problems will get figured out.
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After hitting the reset, the lever unlocks, but the test button still doesn't do anything.
Are these the chips that you are referring to?
Would the fact that my temp battery setup is only putting 3.04V be an issue?
I actually have to leave for the weekend here in a few hours, so I have time to wait for some more answers, and I should probably get my own butt out into the shop and get some actual work done myself.
Thanks again so far everyone!
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.....Are these the chips that you are referring to?
Yes, those are the chips. They are the primary ones that make your machine operate.
Here is the NLG info page for your machine. You can see in the chart that SS6193 chip has a 95% player payback percentage. And in the "Stops" column you can see the reel strips code "AAB". That mean the strips on reel#1 and reel#2 are identical, but reel#3 has a different strip. The strips need to be in the proper order, left to right, for the symbols to display correctly at the end of the spin. In this case the reel #1 and #2 strips are the same. And near the top of the page under the name of the game you can see that your machine is what IGT calls a "Type 20" game. This is IGT's way of categorizing the games with specific playing features. There are many game Types. What you need to know about this is that your SP810 chip is compatible with Type 20 games. So if you ever replaced the SP chip (to get better game features or Test/Diagnostic features) with another one of a different number it needs to be compatible with Type 20 games.
http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%203CM/Game%20Library%20-%20S-Plus%20-%20Double%20Spin%20Double%20Diamond%20(3%20Coin%20M.htm (http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%203CM/Game%20Library%20-%20S-Plus%20-%20Double%20Spin%20Double%20Diamond%20(3%20Coin%20M.htm)
Below is the document that explains all the Test & Setup options that SP810 chip has:
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.....after hitting the reset, the lever unlocks, but the test button still doesn't do anything.
Are these the chips that you are referring to?
Would the fact that my temp battery setup is only pusting 3.04V be an issue?
I Actually have to leave for the weekend here in a few hours, so I have time to wait for some more answers, and I should probably get my own but out into the shop and get some actual work done myself.
Thanks again so far everyone!
I'm not clear on what lever you are referring to that unlocks? Do you mean the pull handle on the side of the machine? If so, yes it does have a locking solenoid that keeps it locked until it is appropriate to be pulled. That may be the sound you are hearing.
A battery voltage of 3 volts is getting into the marginal area, I think 2.9 volts is about as low as they are supposed to go and not cause problems. So I don't know if your battery setup is causing any of the problems. If you can get the 3.6 volt battery installed that will eliminate that possibility.
If pressing the white TEST button has never done anything on the machine then you may want to make sure it is connected to its wires. And if needed you can check if the white TEST button switch is ok with your meter. They don't often go bad but I guess it could happen.
I *think* the normal procedure for TEST mode is to open the door and press the white TEST button, watch the front display to see what menu step you are on. Then press the white TEST button again to go to the next menu step. You don't turn the reset switch on the side of the machine until you get to a step where you want to go into substeps.
Also, with the door closed if you turn the reset switch you will go into the stats and bookkeeping screens. So don't let that confuse you.
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I have seen then games do weird things if you don’t have a good battery voltage and MHz. They usually work till the battery drops to 2.8/3V. I then have seen games that don’t and the battery is just over 3V.
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Short answer you should get a SET and a CLEAR chip.
The Set is to enable the bill validator. This is commonly used when you make game changes or after a clear.
The clear chip is rarely used. However if your buying one get both as shipping will exceed the cost of the chip.
If you have found the white test button then you should be able to change your 61 to a 61-1
This then moves towards game activation.
On occasion after a battery change you get to a 61 loop. This is where you get a followed by 61-1 then back to a 61 again, rinse and repeat.
So far I have not heard you have moved on from a 61.
Subsequently I would not recommend using a clear at this time.
I would like to refer you to the NLG home page.
On the right hand side you will find RICKs FAQ and all the very detailed steps to go from the 61 Forward.
This is just where we have some great documentation so don’t read this as us sending you away.
Please continue to post your progress and challenges here and everyone will continue to assist.
Btw - most of us are not in the casino industry and this is our hobby too.
I am going camping for the Aug long weekend here in Canada so you might not see any posts from me until Tuesday.
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.....Btw - most of us are not in the casino industry and this is our hobby too.
I am going camping for the Aug long weekend here in Canada so you might not see any posts from me until Tuesday.
Have a good outing, but watch out for those other residents!@
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Pushing the white button to clear the 61 is the correct procedure, but you have to hold the button down for 2 to 3 seconds, just pushing it does nothing. Here's the chart of the common S+ errors and how to clear them.
http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/ (http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/)
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Below is your photo of your mpu board. I've made some notes on it in case it is helpful. Your mpu board has a dipswitch with 8 mini-switches. With SP810 these dipswitches control certain settings for your machine. Take a look at the dipswitch, see which positions are set ON and OFF. Then look at the document for SP810 and see what the dipswitch is set to for the various things it controls.
IGT made two styles of mpu boards for the S+. Yours is called the "10mhz" mpu, it is easily identified by the round blue sound volume control along the top edge. You can use it to adjust sound level.
The other style of mpu board is called the "16mhz" board, it does not have this round blue volume knob. Either board will work in an S+ machine.
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I've been holding the reset button for over 10 seconds and I get no response on the front. When I hit the reset and the pull handle unlocks, the "coins played" flashes 0 then 1. Each time I pull the handle, it progresses
0 then 1, 0 then 2, 0 then 3, up to 9. If I randomly push buttons, a few other things light up, but it reverts back to 61
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The sign reads: wear bells and carry bear spray.
The second sign illustrates the difference beteeen Black bear feces and grisly feces.
The grisley feces smells of bear spray and has bells in it.
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I've been holding the reset button for over 10 seconds and I get no response on the front. When I hit the reset and the pull handle unlocks, the "coins played" flashes 0 then 1. Each time I pull the handle, it progresses
0 then 1, 0 then 2, 0 then 3, up to 9. If I randomly push buttons, a few other things light up, but it reverts back to 61
You may want to meter your white TEST button switch and make sure it is ok. If it has 2 wires attached you can follow them back to make sure they haven't been disconnected or cut somewhere.
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I've been holding the reset button for over 10 seconds and I get no response on the front. When I hit the reset and the pull handle unlocks, the "coins played" flashes 0 then 1. Each time I pull the handle, it progresses
0 then 1, 0 then 2, 0 then 3, up to 9. If I randomly push buttons, a few other things light up, but it reverts back to 61
When you say "hit the reset" do you mean turning the reset keyswitch with the key, located on the side of the machine? Or are you talking about something else?
We aren't there to see what you are doing, so important to use the correct terminology. The white TEST button is not a "reset" button.
Also, are your door optics working ok, does the machine display the door open display with the door open, and when you close the door do the reels spin and the machine goes into "ready to play" mode? Don't want any error codes on the front.
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Turning the reset key will put you into statistics mode.
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The reset I'm talking about would be the key. I don't have a key yet, so I pulled the switch so I could jumper the wires together to reset
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The reset I'm talking about would be the key. I don't have a key yet, so I pulled the switch so I could jumper the wires together to reset
When you said you were holding the "reset button" for over 10 seconds I thought you might mean the white TEST button. There isn't a reset button on an S+.
Are you doing the reset (jackpot reset on side of machine) with the door closed? If so that just puts you in stat/bookkeeping mode. You will need to step thru all those screens to exit. Might be able to exit by opening and closing the door. Read back thru the last several posts, some have been edited, need to answer some questions that were asked.
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Does your game have its
reset self-test button by the on / off switch or back behind the bill acceptor? These do go bad so you might want to check yours with a meter
Edited to eliminate possible confusion of terms. -knagl
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His is by the power switch, see photo in reply #26 earlier.
Agree, it might be bad or disconnected.
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I apologize for miss speaking. It was the test button that I was holding down for more than 10 seconds. The reset on side is what I tripped to get the pull handle to unlock. I pulled and tested the test button. It's good, and neither wire is cut. I see it going into a plug above the MPU.
Not sure what I did, but at one point I pulled the lever and the wheels spun and then stopped. #3, them #2, then #1. but only one time. then back to 61. I measured out the optics, and they should match up. Just wondering if they aren't making contact. But I'm assuming that would have nothing to do with the test button.
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YES!!!
OK, I pulled the plug that has the wire from the test button and sprayed it with contact cleaner. Plugged it back in and SHAZAM!! got a ding and the 61 1. But, if I turn it off and back on again it goes back to the 61. But then pushing the test button still brngs it back to 61 1. Baby steps
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That's progress! The connection to the white TEST button switch was probably flaky.
Follow the normal suggestions to clear the 61 or 61-1 error. Be sure to follow the resolution steps exactly.
If the machine is stuck in a loop and never exits the error 61 after trying the recommended steps then it's time to do the CLEAR ram process. Here is a How-To about doing a Clear:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=16134.msg86119#msg86119 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=16134.msg86119#msg86119)
When you pulled the handle and the reels spun you may have been in one of the test steps or stat steps that displays the last few spins the machine had, for audit purposes. This is for settling disputes sometimes in the casino.
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This list will help you with the codes. 61-1 it says to open and closed the door, then to turn the reset key on the side.
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Of course it's not going to be simple.
Got the ding and 61-1. close the door, drop the latch to align the optics, hit the reset, and nothing. I get nothing from the reset. I turned it off and on to go back to where I was with the 61, and the reset unlocking the pull lever, and the reset does nothing. There are a little over 9V between the wires, so I'm assuming that I haven't broken a wire anywhere. I looked and checked all of the plugs again. still nothing.
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And the light on top flashes the whole time
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The light on top ("candle") actually has at least 2 lights inside it (sometimes more). So it has a bottom light and an upper light. I think it is normal for it to flash after the door has been opened and closed, until the first play is made. I wouldn't worry too much about it. But sometimes the machine can use the candle as another way to indicate an error. So let us know which part of the candle is flashing.
Also, when you do the reset that is a momentary thing, not meant for the reset wires to stay connected for very long. When you get your new reset keyswitch you'll see that it is spring-loaded, your turn it to the reset position, then release and it returns to normal position. The reset wires are normally not connected to each other, only momentarily when you turn the reset key. Don't leave the wires connected to each other while you do other stuff.
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try shorting the reset sw with a screwdriver or jumper , may be bad
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Yes, I do know that the reset is a momentary thing, so just touching the wires together for a secnd.
The candle had 2 bulbs. they both flash. The bottom one flashes faster.
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.....Yes, I do know that the reset is a momentary thing, so just touching the wires together for a secnd......
ok, just wanted to make sure.
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Okay, you're making progress. We'll get this yet!
Just to be crystal clear, the normal procedure for clearing a 61 error is:
- Press and hold the white self-test button by the power switch for up to five seconds. The display should change from "61" to "61 1", and the speaker should ding if it is working.
- Close and latch the front door (ensure that all other doors are closed, too (cash can door, belly glass door)).
- Turn the jackpot reset key once and release (or in your case, touch the wires sticking out from that keyswitch together once, then separate them).
The "61 1" should disappear, and the machine should do its "maiden spin" and be ready for play. If not:
- If the "61 1" remains on the display, the machine is not sensing that the door is closed and will not let you finish the initialization procedure. Likely causes in order from most likely to least likely: open bill validator stacker door switch (the door where the "cash can" goes in), bad main door optics, misaligned door optics, open belly glass door (only on the few machines that had a belly door switch installed).
- If the "61 1" vanishes and "61" returns, you are in the "61 loop" and must use a RAM clear chip to resolve the issue.
If your "61 1" isn't changing after you turn the jackpot reset key (or in your case, touching the keyswitch wires together once and releasing) and your cash can door is closed, my money would be on bad/blown door optics.
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Clear chips ordered. But my thoughts still bring me back to the switch for the cash can that has the wires cut. There are slide on connectors still on the switch, but the wires are cut. The wires may have been twisted tgether, But I can't locate them to confirm that. Where would these wires go?
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Look behind to bill acceptor for the two wire hooked together. If the wires are still running inside the bill acceptor, then you should be able to find tucked away inside the the bill acceptor. I do this on all of my machines.
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Hi,
Make sure your door optics are good.
You can use your phone or other digital camera.
If you point your camera you will see one set flashing .
You can’t see it with the naked eye.
I think your in the 61 loop I spoke of earlier.
A clear chip will fix this up.
With the door closed and just the 61 try the reset switch (or short) as the case may be.
See if it throws you into stats mode. This will prove that the switch wiring is working.
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I see a little glow in the optic when I take a pic. Not sure if that's just a glare or not.
Man I'm searching high and low to locate the wires that go to the cash can. It looks like there should be a green and black wires. ppulled the whole Bill validator out and opened it up and couldn't find any wires tied together, and not any wires as heavy as the ones that are attached to the switch. I attached that pic here too.
Also, in the pitch with the cash can switch, any ideas what the orange stuff is that's oozing out of the pull lever mechanism? looks like it would be grease and soft, but it's actually fairly hard. No idea how it's dripping. Makes no sense.
BUT, back to my main issue. I just don't want to use the cradle chips (I get them Saturday) if I don't have to. it's kinda strange that all of a sudden the reset switch doesn't do anything at all. It was working last week.
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You had a 12 last week. Now you have a 61.
I would proceed with the clear.
The 61 loop is common after a 12 especially if the battery went real dead.
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Well, I'm going to go with the theory that the optic WAS good. Apparently I broke a wire off. Thought it went to the little tab sticking out of the side, so soldered it on, I but guess not. Now back to getting the 61 only and nothing from the test button. Dammit. Guess I'm going shopping
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Ok. The white switch with the orange arrow pointing at it can be removed. It’s not needed, just remove the two screws holding the bracket on from the inside of the cash can hole. Next the orange goo is grease coming out of the handle assembly, see white arrows. Next see the yellow arrow. Those should be the wires that go to the front door switch on the cash box door. Those two wires can be cut and connected together. Those are the two I was talking about.
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Yes. I did find the wires to the micro switch for the cash can door. Those are actually connected together right by the switch.
Thare aren't any wires for the switch in the back that is activated when the cash can is installed?
Also I ordered new optics. Will have Saturday when I get the chips.
I do have another question though. Is it fairly probable that I'll get this thing working properly? I ask because all of the laminate on the exterior is falling off. I don't want to put the time and expense into stripping it and relaminating it if there's a chance that it will end up being junk. Lol
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I don’t see why not. As long as it’s not all hacked up inside. When you do the optics pay attention to the wires colors. One optic has Red & Black wires and the other is Red & White. They both have the same plugs. I like to use blue painters tape to mark my optics locations on the door and cabinet after they are installed. Mark a line on the OS of the cabinet where the center of the optic is, and do the same on the door optic. Make sure the door latch is down when marking the door optic. Now close the door and latch it. The marks should line up. If not then adjust. This is the best way I’ve figured out how to adjust them.
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All of the issues you have are pretty common - in another 30 days this will be all old-hat and you will be dishing out advice to the newbes. The only question Is how much room do you have for machines. Once you get the first one running its like a drug.
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Not sure what it means, but just got an email telling me that this topic has been marked as a sticky topic.
Since it's still here, I'm guessing that isn't totally bad.
So here's my update
New battery came in. Installed that and I'm back to getting the 61-1.
My buddy ordered the clear chip set, key for the reset, and new locks. We should be doing all or most of that tonight.
I did break the one optic, so I'm pretty sure we won't "Git-r-dun" tonight, but hopefully we'll be close.
Optics are supposed to be in the mail tomorrow. Maybe I'll get lucky and they'll be there today.
My one question still up to this point that I either missed, or haven't got a solid answer on is, That switch being the cash can. I did find the wires that go to the micro switch that trips when the door in front of the cash can is closed. Did those same 2 wires also go to the switch behind the cash can? So both switches had to be tripped to complete the circuit? Or should I still be searching for 2 other wires? Because I can't find any others
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A sticky topic is one that has been deemed to have some rich goodness in so that others can learn from.
If you look at forum topics and go the sub board that this tread is in, the sticky topics are at the top so they can be referenced.
I don’t think your having door issues but will know for sure once you get past the 61-1
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The two wires for the white switch are not important and I don’t think they exist. Just make sure that the 2 green/blue wires from the front cash can door switch are connected together. The white switch can be totally removed it’s not needed.
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That's what I want to hear about the wires. Thank you.
And I'm glad that hopefully someone else's problems can roll a Lil easier down the road.
Getting pretty pumped now!!
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OK guys. Here's the nightly drama.
Got the new optics and the chips. Replace both optice. Feeling pretty confident on alignment. did the reset chip and it went through the steps just like the instructions said. replaced the chip, turned it on, got the 61. Hit the test button, got the 61-1. Closed the door and dropped the latch. hit the reset and nothing.
Checked voltage at both optics. They both react 8.7. I thought the door was only supposed to be 5ish?
Possible may have disconnected the reset throughout my house cleaning?
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OK, so apparently I have some kind of short in the motherboard. After messing with the plugs, I finally got it to work. Then when we did the BV chip, that set us back to square 1. 61 error. test button did nothing, Bill validator did nothing. Did the clear chip again, and wiggled the plugs on the motherboard and got it to work again. But no bill validator.
BUT, it will only take 3 quarters at a time. and when inserting quarters, it shows up on the coins played light, but doesn't show on the credits. If I play 3 quarters at a time until I "win", it will pay out in quarters. I have to "light up" the cash/credit button to allow winnings to be saved as credits. My buddy says "that's how we had to do it in the 90's". I call BS because what would happen if someone put a 20 in??
So maybe the bill validator is bad?
Possibly the motherboard also?
Should the green light be on on the coin comparitor?
What about the voltage on the optics?
Man, the highs and lows are brutal in this game. LOL
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And I forgot somewhere throughout the process, the candle switched from both flashing with the bottom flashing faster, to the top was out and the bottom only flashed.
Right now I'm back to the 3 quarter thing and both lights are out on the candle
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Green lite will not come on when door is open.
Bill val giving coins instead of credits is different setting. Is it set to 8-0?
Check the green wire (first wire on left end) of last connector on motherboard on the rear right (J10) when mpu board is still inserted. It runs thru the door optics.
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IT WORKS!!!!
You know, I always made fun of my ex business partner because he was one of those guys that would get an error on the computer, click "ok", and then do exactly the same thing over and over because "maybe it will work this time".
Well this morning, we went through the clear chip process 2 more times, "just for the hell of it" and for whatever reason, the world's aligned and it started working!!! I'm assuming that whatever plug is jacked up going into the motherboard is making proper contact.
So the validator will take 1s 20's and 100s Won't take new 5s or 10s. I'll do some research to figure out what I want to do with that.
Anyway, seriously thank you all so much. Never would have gotten through it without your help. It's awesome to see that people are still wiling to take time out of their day to help someone.thay don't even know. You guys rock! If you're even near Mazon, IL, I owe you a beer or 6
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Crap. Forgot my hopefully last question. Is there a switch that will default the cash/credit button to credit?
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Did you try settings 5_0, 8_0
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well apparently there is a "next level" of programming that I haven't come across yet. What is 5_0 and 8_0?
II was also wondering about my dip switch settings. In the pics I posted what back in the beginning, you'll see that, at least to me, the 1234 are off and the 5678 are on. I believe it should be the other way around..
Next question. When shutting down, do you normally just unplug or open the door to shut it down, or just leave it on at all times?
We unplugged it Saturday night and it sat all day yesterday and today. T he wife went down and plugged it in and we have new problems. The lower light on the candle flashes fast, the winner paid flashes a 4 and the credits a 1 at the same time, and the coins played flashes a 2 alternatively. Won't take coins. tripped the reset, heard a click, then right back to this. Any ideas
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You have two chips that run your machine.
One is the SP (game chip) and the SS (reel chip).
The reel chip is your theme and there is a document that supports it called a PaR sheet.
Stands for pay table and reel. It tells you about hit frequency and describes the game TYPE.
You can find most of the information in the IGt game bible under RICKs FAQ.
The TYPE of game ie determines what GAME chip you need to use. For instance a Double Diamond themed Machine is Type 0 with no special features. Any game chip that supports type 0 will do. Double Diamond Delux which has nudge features (arrow on the diamond pointing up or down) causes the reel to nudge up or down and potentially generate a win. Just adds a bit of excitement to the game. Is a TYPE 2 game.
Anyways the game chip is governed by a PSR sheet. Program Summary Report. This tells you how to program all of the features such as hopper limits, credit limits, pays go to credits or to cash, reel speed, reel sound, jackpot bell, progressive display, etc, etc.
Again deferring you back to RICKs faqs there is detailed instructions to get your machine to display your game and reel chip numbers. You need to know this.
In the file downloads there should be a file called Rons simplified programming sheet that will walk you through changing all of the options using the white set up button and various buttons on the front of the machine. The instructions differ depending on what game chip you have.
Btw now that your game works you can get other themes for your machine. You change the two aforementioned chips. Reel strips and glass and you get a whole different experience.
If your machine is a two coin today - it can easily become a 5 coin 5 line tomorrow.
We refer to these as game kits.
Let us know what chips are in your machine and keep us posted as to how you make out.
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I have been working (kinda) with Dan on this machine. First I have to say you guys are GREAT!! I saw the section on the programming, if Dan don't figure it out next time I'm there I'll give it a shot!
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The lower light on the candle flashes fast, the winner paid flashes a 4 and the credits a 1 at the same time, and the coins played flashes a 2 alternatively. Won't take coins. tripped the reset, heard a click, then right back to this.
Depending on your SP chip, the lower candle light will flash rapidly if the machine is detecting a door open. On older SP chips, the candle will continue to flash rapidly after the door has been closed until a paid game has been completed. On your SP810 chip, it appears that a rapidly flashing bottom candle light is indicating that the machine is detecting that a door is currently open, which could include the bill validator stacker ("cash can") door, belly door if equipped with a switch (rare), or the main door. If the main door is not fully latched, the machine will think it is open. If your optics are bad, the machine will think the door is open.
Depending on your SP chip, a flashing number in the Coins Played window can indicate a "Service (Door-Just-Closed) Notification". The Coins Played digit flashes from the time the door is closed until the end of one complete game. The PSR for your SP810 does not specify that it has this feature, so I can't say with certainty that the game is detecting the door as closed based on that.
Are you saying that the Winner Paid display is flashing the number 4 while the Credits meter is flashing the number 1? That would be unusual. A 4 in the Winner Paid display would make sense if the machine is currently showing a winning condition of a single cherry on the first reel with 2 coins played. It does not make sense that you would only have one credit with a payout of 4 on the previous spin.
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Not sure what was going on, but seems somewhat OK now. Bill transporter is jamming. So just started looking in that group for help on that. I did something with the test button though, and now it won't accept coins. But will accept crisp paper money.
I'm sure that I'm looking right at it, but where do I find Ron's programming write up?
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.....I'm sure that I'm looking right at it, but where do I find Ron's programming write up?
Is this it?
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=586.msg2029#msg2029 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=586.msg2029#msg2029)
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Yes, Thank you.
But I'm a little confused. When I go to do the self tests, I get the 0 in the coins played window, but then I only get 2 numbers in the winner paid window. Nothing in the credits window. turning the reset key takes me from 0-9 then back to 0. Hitting the spin reel button only switches between which of the 2 digits is flashing.
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Sprayed some belt dressing on the transporter belts. Works great for now.
Just need to figure out how I disabled the comparitor and hopefully I'll be done. Until the next one arrives next week. lol
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Someone real familiar with the S+ Test/Setup menus can probably walk you thru it. Do you know what SP chip you have on your machine's mpu board? The SP chip determines the specific features your machine's Test/Setup menus have, although many of the menu steps are in all SP chips. I will try to look back thru this discussion thread to see if you figured out what SP chip you have, but this thread is several pages long so if you know the SP chip number that will save time.
In general, I think you press the white TEST button over and over until you get to the menu step you want, then you use other buttons or the reset key to select sub-menus or make changes.
If you don't know your SP chip number here is an easy to follow way to have the machine tell you the SP and SS chip numbers:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=2251.msg11326#msg11326 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=2251.msg11326#msg11326)
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Sp 810.
I did at one point get into some of these tests and obviously did somethg. May be better to just start a new thread.
Also changes something else. Just found out that a single cherry used to pay as per what the glass says. Now it doesn't.
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If your original question back in your first post has been taken care of it then it might be good to end this one and start a new one for other questions. The document for SP810 is attached below. Sometimes they are a little hard to follow so ask if you have trouble.
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Awesome. Thanks. I'll end this post.