New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => BALLY Game Maker => Topic started by: moementum on November 29, 2021, 03:34:37 PM
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I recently acquired a Bally Alpha Game Maker V20/20 from an estate sale. It powers up, fans come on, lights illuminate, but thats about it. The top screen briefly displays "no signal" then goes to sleep, and the bottom/main screen just has the "no sync" message with the red, green, blue & white test bars floating about the screen. upon start up, the MPU/CPU emits a long beep followed by 2 short beeps. green LEDs everywhere. Ideas? PLEASE.....
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I would look inside the machine and inspect each and every connector, including making sure the MPU is seated ALL the way in.
Check around the bottom for loose change (unless it never took coins) that may have lodged in places where it can create an unwanted short circuit.
Post a photo of your machine please.
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Here's some pics... Was there something in particular you needed to see?
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I'm just trying to rule out things like connections. I've actually never worked on an
AVP Alpha but hoping I can jump start this thread with some of the basics.
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It's a Bally alpha not avp. I see a touch screen connector that is not plugged into brainbox.
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the other end is connected to the top screen. i was curious about it too, but was told it didn't matter. plus, I didn't see a place to plug it in....
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Try reseating your video card.
The upper touchscreen is not used, I'm surprised to see it cabled for one.
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I pulled what I assume was the video card, the one the 2 screens plug into. No visible damage. inspected and reinstalled/seated. no change.
If it turns out to be a CPU issue, would this be something that SPIN can repair with their $95 flat rate?
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One long beep followed by two short beeps indicates a video problem on a lot of computers, so it was worth a shot. Try removing it completely and hooking one of the monitors to the integrated video port and see if it will try to boot that way.
I heard Spin is no longer repairing boards, but you can give them a call and ask.
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I hope they are.... Just sent in a S2000 1270...arrived yesterday. The info and forms are still up on their site.
Is there an alternate plug in the CPU to connect a monitor?
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Good to know.
Yes, there's a VGA connector on the MPU by the USB plugs.
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good news... Unplugged the screens from the Video/graphics card and plugged them in alternately into the single VGA plug on the front of the CPU. They both work!! THANKS TILT!! So, best case scenario, I dont need a new a new CPU. It went through the boot up process and loaded all the games. It settles on a screen that says "Call attendant Primary Touch Screen Device Error" Does this mean, at a minimum, Ill need a new graphics/video card? The CPU "appears" to do what its supposed to....
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Good deal! Yes, look for a new video card for it and you should be in business.
Make sure the lower monitor touchscreen serial cable is plugged into the front of the CPU.
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OK plugged the lower touchscreen cable back in, and the error message disappeared. Now it just says "Call Attendant"
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They take several minutes to completely boot up. Give it some time.
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Jacked around with settings and it appears everything works. Will have to clear it as I didn't enable the BV or Tito etc. but it looks good. Anyone know who might have a working Alpha V20/20 video card or whatever it's called...
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I may have one. I'll look around in my spare parts tomorrow evening and see.
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That would be awesome. Let me know if you need any info from me, model #, part #. if you do come across one let me know the $....
I hope its that simple....
Now to find a PDF of the Alpha Game Platform Setup and Operation chapter of the S9000 Operators Instruction Manual....
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UPDATE on the Spin repairs. They no longer repair boards. Just got a call saying how sorry they were. Told them the instructions and printable forms are still up on their site. They will be removing it shortly. Well poop!! 💩
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Yeah, that's a bummer. Thanks for the confirmation though.
Here's the video card I have, I bought it new for a spare never used it. If it's what you need, how about $50 shipped priority mail (assuming a lower 48 shipping address)?
PM if interested.
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I'll take it, let me compare pics when I get home tonight, and I'll bring touch...
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It's ALIVE!! Special thanks to "TILT" for the deal on the new video card. Was a bit stressed at first as it didn't see to solve the problem, but after a clear, it works like a charm!! Thanks again TILT!!
Now to find that little rectangular "MAX BET/STAND" legend...
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That's great, congratulations :applause: I'm glad you got it working and glad to help. Enjoy!
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Not so fast...LOL.after about 2 hours the be upper monitor seems to have crapped out. Look like I'll need a replacement. No output whatsoever. I know the card is good, just nothing from the upper 20" monitor. Anyone have a spare?;
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You can switch the upper and lower vga cables on the MPU to verify it's the monitor. You can probably repair the monitor if it went bad. Typically the inverter board or power supply fail the most, that's been my experience anyhow.
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Going to try the cable switch to be sure, when I quit cursing at it. As far as repairing the monitor, where does someone go about learning that procedure, or securing parts? Haven't checked the NLG Forums yet, but maybe there's a page..
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You can probably find what you need from one of our vendors here on NLG. There may be some videos on youtube that may be helpful. But removing it from the door frame and taking off the back cover is pretty straight forward.
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Switched the video cables on the video card and the lower monitor always displays, so the CPU and video card are functioning. Watched a few videos and read posts about possibly repairing LCD & LED monitors. The fan on the monitor runs so it has power, just no output whatsoever. Removed and disassembled the monitor. There's not a typical looking (at least from what I've seen on videos) power supply board though. All cables and the power cord go into a small PCB. There are capacitors on this board, but they are the small, almost pencil eraser sized vertical chip capacitors. There's a ribbon cable leading to another larger board that has 2 of the typical polarized radial caps. They were directly under the fan and completely covered in black dust goop. Cleaned all the crap off and inspected the 2 caps. No visible swelling and they may or may not have leaked, as it's hard to tell because of the strange black dust from years of the fan running. Not sure if these could be the culprit I've been looking for as it doesn't look like the other monitors I've seen on all of the repair videos. Is it because it's a touch screen? I'm going to attempt to replace the caps as the monitor doesn't seem to work anyway. If anyone has any suggestions or tips it would be greatly appreciated ....
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The board on the left is the inverter board and the right the AD board. I've fixed a couple of inverter boards by replacing the caps. In addition to those look for any surface mounted fuses and check those to make sure they're still good. They'll be labeled with a F and a number. e.i. F1, F2, etc.
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Didn't see any fuses, but I did find a small "reset" button on the smaller board. Planning on testing it again before I change the caps. Its had a reasonably good cleaning and now that I'm aware of the reset button, I'll give it one last chance before it goes under the knife. Fingers crossed
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Picture a bit blurry but that looks like a fuse to me.
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Yes, it appears to be a fuse, but what type is it and is it soldered in or what? I haven't seen one like this before.
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Yep, it's a 3.15 Amp surface mount fuse (good eye Tony) that is soldered on like the other components. It should read 0 ohms across it with a multimeter. Interesting that the board says 5A, but the fuse is a 3.15A. It may have been replaced before with one of a lower value?
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If it is blown - the CCFL's are probably bad. You can try to replace it and see if the backlight works. The inverter board is only for powering up the backlight. If it works for a little bit and blows the fuse then you will need to replace the lamps.
If you want to be sure it is a back light problem - meaning the display is working, but you can't see it because the backlight is bad. Shine a light at an angle on the screen - get close and look for the displayed image. If you see anything then the display is OK and just the backlighting is bad.
Hope that helps. If you would like more info, PM me.
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I'll ohm out the fuse, and if it reads 0, I'll reassemble the monitor, hook everything up and try the reset button. If it still doesn't work, I'll replace the caps as they appear to have leaked a bit & I already have some in route. If it still doesn't work, I'll dispose of it and get a replacement. I'll keep the 3 people (LOL) on this forum posted. Thanks for all the help!!!
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Just an update, cleaned the pasty black dust off the circuit board under the fan. Decided to reassemble everything and try the RESET button on the back of the monitor. It seemed to do the trick. Everything works as before... And if it ever decided to quit, I already have the replacement caps. Thanks for all the input and suggestions. On to my next projects, an S2000 MATA HARI vision, and a Williams 405 round top Jitter Bug.