New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: thegarse on July 28, 2022, 09:19:51 AM
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Hi all, I'm trying to not buy another MPU and am hoping to pinpoint what on the MPU I can replace at the component level (assuming the MPU is the problem). I'm comfortable replacing components and have already fixed some parts that measured out of spec.
Details:
1. Power on and the florescent lights turn on, reels get power, 10v on the display board, denomination light turns on. No burn on the molex connectors on the MB.
2. I bought an eBay 10mhz board a few years ago and that board worked until recently. I'm comfortable with through hole component replacement but I'm not sure what to look at first? I'm also not 100% confident I'm getting 5v on the board as it's impossible to probe while the MPU is in place.
I'm including some pics. This machine is a beaut so I'd like to get it back up and running (and bulletproof it if possible). Thanks!
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How do you play it without any buttons? :Scratch-Head:
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How do you play it without any buttons? :Scratch-Head:
This is indeed a strange setup. Pull the arm every time is the only way I know of unless I install a momentary switch.
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Ok, an update, replaced the Tranzorb diode at D3 since it was giving me strange readings. Now I have gameplay but credits is stuck at zero even when there is payout. So only power on one row of the display?
Also thanks to another member for letting me know this is not an S-Plus machine but only an S (I've been called an S too).
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The MPU board you posted a pic of is a S plus board.
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The MPU board you posted a pic of is a S plus board.
Thanks, then consider me confused on what board I have, S or SPlus, more familiar with pinball. Maybe I refer to it as an SP611 chip game?.
Also correction to the above, Winner Paid is stuck at 0 not credits.
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The no buttons for play.... I was wondering how setup would be done without buttons?
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The no buttons for play.... I was wondering how setup would be done without buttons?
From the little I know of this game I don't think there is a lot of setup other than dip switches.
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Going to mark this as solved, then will consider opening up a new post for the "Stuck on Winner Paid: 0" issue.
Thanks all.
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Your machine is an early S+
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Show me a photo behind the door, under the deck... where the buttons are supposed to be.
I have never heard of an IGT S+ without deck buttons.
You cannot set up a machine without deck buttons.
The dip switches ONLY change Max Hopper Pays, Game Sounds, Game Cycle and Progressive stuff...depending on what SP chip is installed.
Somebody messed with this cabinet and stole the buttons for another machine or something and stuck a blank plate on the button deck.
I'm going to bet they tied up the handle release pawl & hooked up the handle switch to the Max bet switch wiring.
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Here's a pic behind the door @ Stayouttadabunker.
I'm still at the "0" error. Either motherboard issue or wiring. I downloaded a lot of continuity test files for displays that I plan to get to at some point.
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Your connections on the motherboard are causing your issues! your meters are plugged into the wrong connector, pulling down the strobe signal. the 7 pin meter cable should be inserted into J-5, ,not J-14 where it is presently.
that should fix the display issue.
Hope this helps.
Jim
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Let me try to help ya.
The harness Jim is talking about is the one with mostly brown wires....it has 7 wires in all but it will have one single wire on the end that is orange with a green stripe.
Push on the black plastic center tab to release it as you slightly pull upwards and move it over to the header board connector marked as [J5].
It's right next to the 6-pin [J6] and 10-pin [J4] headers.
I've illustrated below somewhat.
Click on photo to enlarge if needed...>>>
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Your connections on the motherboard are causing your issues! your meters are plugged into the wrong connector, pulling down the strobe signal. the 7 pin meter cable should be inserted into J-5, ,not J-14 where it is presently.
that should fix the display issue.
Hope this helps.
Jim
To Jim and Stayouttadabunker I have to give you guys many many thanks. I'm sitting here with my door troubleshooting schematics and thankfully I do not have to probe my life away trying to find a broken trace.
What's strange is the plastic protector actually covers J5 when installed but leaves J14 uncovered indicating that it should be plugged in there (obviously not the case). Plugged it into J5 and life is good!
I added some pics to help others with this issue. Thank you again! Wow, I'm so happy you replied!
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You can leave the meters unplugged if you want, it won't complain.