New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: Patrickmerc on June 15, 2023, 09:56:42 AM
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Good morning all, I have a s plus upright that I have no digital display and the candle keeps flashing. It appears that it thinks the door is open. I replaced the optic switches on the door and no change. For the display I replaced the power supply harness and the motherboard. Still not working. Thank you Patrick
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Check the 3 fuses.
---------this needs moved to S+ section--------
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All fuses good.
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Regarding the optics.....
- There is an emitter and receiver - do you have them installed correctly. Ie the Emitter worn't work if its connected to the wrong set of leads.
Using a digital camera (camera on a phone is fine) you can point that at the emitter and you should see a faint flashing. This will at least prove the emitter is working.
- Do the emitter and receiver match up (aign) properly - it doesn't take much for these to get out of alignment.
You can try taking the emitter and receiver off the door and tape them together. This will fake the door being closed - if this works then its alignment.
Are the reels stiff to the touch or are they loose ? this could point to the power harness.
Pls post back and let us know what you find out.
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I looked at the emitter through the camera all I saw was a small spot of purple light. I manually held then together with no changes. I have two sets of optics and neither worked. The reels are stiff.
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I checked the molex connectors on the back of the board and the denomination light only comes on with a light pull on the connector. The digital display will only light up one number on the display and it changes numbers every time I plug it in.
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Sounds like your optics are good.
The little dot of purple is about what is expected.
Was the slot working for you and just stopped or did it come to you like this ?
Do you have a clear chip ?
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I . I bought it not working. I have an s plus ram clear chip
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If you have another S plus MPU from a working machine. I would try swapping them and see if the problem remains with the chassis or not. You can also run the ram clear through this machine and see if it makes a difference. The other thing to check is if your game and real chips are properly seated in the sockets . I.have seen a corrupted game chip cause this kind of problem in the past, but it’s not common. Once again, it looks like your optics are behaving and you don’t appear to have power problems so now we are looking at the MPU as a potential source of the problem
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Which harness connector are you giving a "light pull"?
There's two of them.
Maybe you could you post a close-up photo of it?
Might just be a loose ground wire?
Pull off the connector and push all the wires firmly into the back of the housing.
Once you do that, re-install the connector back onto the display.
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The one on the right with the door open
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The digital display will only light up one number on the display and it changes numbers every time I plug it in.
In which window on the display is this changing number shown?
Check the connector wires for continuity between the connector and the motherboard.
Could be a internal broken wire inside the covering that you cannot see.
You could also have a cold solder joint on the display panel header that you may need to reheat.
The only way to fix this is with a multimeter and soldering pen.
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Thanks l will check it out. When I plug in the connector the numbers show up in different windows.
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You should never plug in or remove components with the machine's power switch ON.
Sometimes you can, but generally it's best to turn off the power.
Because you are NOW saying that other LEDs light up in other windows tells me that your display could be fine.
I'm leaning towards a problem elsewhere such as your MPU or motherboard power connector.
With the power OFF, pull out the MPU board and check the pins underneath it for a bent one touching another pin.
BTW Does your reel glass display look like this one, from behind?
It has two separate connectors.
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
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I pulled the mpu with the power turned off and then connectors look good. Yes that's the same circuit board in the picture.
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the candle keeps flashing. It appears that it thinks the door is open.
Note that the lower portion of the candle will continue to blink with most SP chips until a paid game is completed, so be careful in assuming that just because the candle is blinking that the machine thinks the door is open, because that may not be the case.
You will need to get your display working in order to troubleshoot the exact issue(s) you're encountering with getting the machine to work.
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If you have a later Splus with a BV then make sure to check the cash box door switch. With out that, it will never see the door closure.
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Yes I have a bill validator. Where's the door switch located?
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I found the switch there's no harness in the door just two tie wrap bases.
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Look behind the bill validator unit on the right wall of the cabinet.
Check to make sure two green wires are connected together.
At one time, those would have went to the cash box door lever switch.
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I found the green wires they are crimped together.
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When you close the door latch all the way down, does the number in the [Coins Played] window go out momentarily, then come back on as the same or another number?
If so, drop a coin in the slot, play one complete game, and the candle will go out.
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I am still not having any luck getting this machine working. It thinks the door is open and I have no digital display. I replaced the optic switches, I replaced the motherboard, I replaced the power supply harness. I have read that it's best not to do a ram clear. Can anyone tell me why this is discouraged? It has not worked since I bought it.
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Did you check the fuses? Check the BV door switch and make sure the cash can switch has been bypassed if it has one.
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Hi thanks for the response. The cash can switch is the one on the back of the wall where it slides in? The bv door switch wires are crimped together. Fuses are good
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yes
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How do you bypass it. And I really appreciate you taking the time to help me. Patrick
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Bypass the same way as the BV door.
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I looked at the switch on the back of the cash box and there's no wiring harness there at all. There's also a small circuit board above the hopper plug with two cut wires marked j11. The wires are no where to be found. Help please
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A good, clear photo of the cut wires in the area that you're talking about might help us, help you.
Also, the simple reason why we don't encourage people to use a Clear chip is because they don't know how to set up a machine after all of the settings are erased and it disables the bill acceptor.
Without a SET015 chip needed to re-enable the bill validator, they cannot get it to work again.
A Clear chip is needed really only to get past a stuck logic signal called the "[61-1] Loop".
That isn't the problem your machine is having.
Okay...if you think the door is "open", the Service Credit button on the bottom of the coin-in optics board (underneath the coin comparitor), would work.
Let's verify your belief, that the door is indeed "open".
Press the Service Credit button a couple of times.
You may or may not hear the speaker "ding" each time you put on a credit.
It depends on whether or not your speaker works.
You haven't told us if this is a 2, 3, or 5 credit game.
I don't what really works on your machine or not but your display does not need to work to put on a couple of service credits.
Press the start button on the deck.
If the reels spin, that means a game has played and now you've verified that the door is in an "open" state.
Check for the correct voltages on the display harness with a multimeter or swap out your questionable display with a KNOWN GOOD display.
If you were a Contributing Member, you could download the wiring schematic drawings of your display harness, to see what voltages should be on each pin in the plug/plugs - from the NLG File System.
How many connector plugs go to your digital display, one or two?
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There's two connectors. It's a 3 credit machine
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I tried to post a picture but it says it's too large
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I posted a picture in an album. I don't know where it went
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The connector on the switch for the cash box switch is missing. I was told to bypass the switch. Anyone know where the harness comes from? Igt s plus 5x pay. There's a very small circuit board mounted to the socket where the hopper plugs in. Two wires going to it are cut off. It has jp11 marking the wires are black and blue.
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Good morning. Does anyone know anything about the optic boards that determines if the hopper is in place.
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If you take a picture with a cell phone camera email it to yourself, you will be given the option to reduce the size of the photo.
Then post the photo that you just emailed yourself as it will be smaller.
Alternatively use a site like YouTube to post a video and then post a link to the video here.
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OKay...while we're waiting for your pictures.
I'm assumming you have the long reel glass display that runs along the bottom in front of the reels.
That has two connectors on the back of it.
One is for the led display, while the other is for the .25 cent denomintion lamp, as well as the Insert Coin/Coin Accepted lamps.
The connectors are Molex plugs.
There's a small tab that you depress on the housing that releases the connector from the other.
Always pull by the housing, not the wiring.
Take them both off and shove them back on.
Sometimes it's just a loose connector or dirty pin inside the housing.
I'm hoping when you submit some photos, we'll spot if there's anything burned out or anything.
Did you ever try the Service Coin test, like I asked - to verify if the door is in an "open" state?
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Thanks for the response. I tried the credit button like you asked me to and it doesn't work. What do you need pictures of. I haven't posted anything yet as I am still not sure how to do it
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Display board
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Good morning. Does anyone know anything about the optic boards that determines if the hopper is in place.
There is no optic board that determines if the hopper is in place. The hopper plugs into a beau plug in the machine with physical contacts.
There is a coin-out optic mounted on the hopper assembly that tells the machine when a coin is exiting the hopper. The wiring for that goes through the same beau plug previously mentioned.
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This is on the back of the hopper. There's another one of these optic boards is inside the machine with the wires to it cut. There's no wiring anywhere near it.??
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This is the one in the machine
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Those two small boards have an emitter and reciever optic on them so that they can "see" each other when you shove in the hopper.
That was a rarely used security connection option that some casinos used.
It would set off a sensor to the backroom computer, whenever the hopper was pulled out.
If there's a wire broken, that's not a big problem...just splice the same colored wires back together, and wrap with some electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.
However, it shouldn't affect whether or not your door is open or closed.
The various door sensors and door optics determine that.
What you could do for now, is follow the wires back from those two small boards, and pull out the plugs.
The machine doesn't need any hopper connection optics to work.
It only needs the optics that counts the coins coming out of the bowl.
Take a picture of where the wires go back to and show us.
We'll be able to tell you if you can remove it or not.
Also, if you can, let us know what SP chip you have installed in the GAME PROM socket on the MPU.
I stress...never pull out or install any circuit board with the power switch ON.
It causes shorts and burns out stuff.
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Here's the pictures you asked for. The small circuit board inside the machine has the wires cut and there's no wiring anywhere near it that matches up.
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...The small circuit board inside the machine has the wires cut and there's no wiring anywhere near it that matches up.
You don't need it and there's no photos of wires being cut.
I must ask again...lol...What SP chip is installed?
I want to review the PSR sheet on it to see if there's anything in it that mentions anything about a coin hopper needing security optics.
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Sp 731
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That's an old SP chip.
There's nothing in it that mentions anything about hopper security optics.
I'm suspecting that some casino had it mounted to their hoppers and beau plugs at some point.
It could be some aftermarket security item or an IGT option we haven't really seen too much in the home market.
Since the wires are cut and there's no plug or harness end, I'm guessing that the end of it at some point, went to an SAS COM 1 board, which in turn, sent signals back to the casinos' backroom computer.
I doubt it has/had anything to do with the door being in an open state.
okay, the candle on the topbox...is it a two-stage candle?
Meaning, does it have two bulbs in it, and verified working?
The top half of the candle should be flashing....IF the door is open.
Also, the [Insert Coin] lamp should be on, if you haven't been able to add any credits to the machine.
Where is the little white test button in your cabinet?
And...did you unplug/plug back in the connectors on the back of the long display yet?
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I just bought and installed the sp chip. Is it good to use? The candle is two stage and they both are flashing at the same rate. Rapidly. I still have no digital display or a insert coin light. The 25 cent goes on and off when I move the connector slightly. The white button is right below the comparitor. It doesn't do anything when I push it.
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I hate to ask but is the chip installed in the right way ?
There is a small hole on top of the chip and it aligns with the small indent on the MPU socket.
If its in backwards you can get this kind of behavior.
Also please make sure there are no legs bent underneath.
Sometimes when inserting a chip a leg bends inwards. It looks like its in the socket but sadly folded underneath.
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I just bought and installed the sp chip. Is it good to use? The candle is two stage and they both are flashing at the same rate. Rapidly. I still have no digital display or a insert coin light. The 25 cent goes on and off when I move the connector slightly. The white button is right below the comparitor. It doesn't do anything when I push it.
Check that connection if light goes on and off when you move connector. Also, that is NOT the machine's test button under the CC. That is the pseudo coin-in button on the coin-in optics, it should ding and give a credit when you push it. The machine's test button is usually located next to or behind the machine's on-off switch. (older cabinets it may be in a different place)
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Look at your photo below.
I think you have a broken or loose ground wire.
I can tell you which color wire it is if you tell us which connector makes that .25 cent lamp go off and on?
I numbered both of them for ya. :cool_thumb_up:
oh...your test button can also be on the MPU enclosure panel, under the door harness connector coming out of it, if your MPU is located on the left wall of the cabinet.
If your MPU is located on the back floor of your machine's cabinet, then the test button is up next to the power switch or behind it - like sixcardmark said.
Finally, you said BOTH halves of the candle are flashing....do you have a jackpot?
Turn the Jackpot Reset key on the right hand side of your machine once?
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
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It's connector number 2. The test button is next to the power switch I misunderstood you earlier. I have tried the rest key it doesn't make a difference
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The connector orientation?The white reset button is to the right of the power switch
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The connector is oriented correctly and looks to be in good...just wanted you to unplug it and plug it back a few times to rub off any oxidization on the pins...kinda like battery acid on terminals in a car. Sometimes unplugging and replugging connector helps get new electrical contact and things working again.
okay...you're saying that both lamps in the candle are flashing slowly and at the same time right?
That means the door is closed, and is why no credits go onto the display when you pressed the Service Credit button on the coin-in optics board underneath the coin comparitor - it does NOT work if the door is in a closed state.
That could also mean your door optics are not "opening" for some reason or they're bypassed and a cherry switch is stuck closed?
Start taking more pictures of everything.
IF the top half of the candle was flashing slow and the bottom half was flashing twice as fast, the door would be in an open state.
This also means that the machine is in a "paying mode".
It probably hasn't been completed.
You need to take more pictures of your machine.
Let's see the front with whatever lights are on and inside on the door as well as in the hopper area.
Because I have more questions that will help us help you but I cannot see anything.
Do you have a coin in the coin compritor?
If so what kind?
Are there coins in the hopper?
The machine will remain in this state until it finishes paying out.
With no display, we don't know where it's at in the "Paying " state.
We're lucky to have a working candle, to tell us what's going on, at least!
I want to see if there's any corrosion on your motherboard as well...the one on the floor that the MPU plugs down into.
The more you can show us, the better we can help you instead of guessing or this topic will run into a hundred posts and questions for a simple problem.
I want you to get another display in case this one is burned out.
Did you EVER see it working?
Below, I've attached a sheet of candle codes.
Your machine is in a "ALL PAYS - DOOR CLOSED" state right now.
That's why earlier I asked you to turn the Jackpot Reset Key (It's NOT called a "rest" key).
I wanted to see if it would knock off a jackpot, but without a working display, we don't know what is going on.
Go buy an IGT S+ Long Reel Glass Display, and swap it with this non-working one...they don't cost much.
Before you ask, put a WTB ad in the Classifieds section of NLG and hopefully a member vendor can sell you one.
Wiggle the connector (#1, or the connector towards the door latch), and see if the digital part comes on at all?
Might be just loose?
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
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I have a quick question before I start working on it. Do I need to drill out the rivits on the display board to remove it? The display worked when I bought it. It had the burnt pin the connector. I replaced the power supply harness and the motherboard and I have not had a display since.
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NO :no: ..look underneath. :sherlock: There's three nuts.
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Does anyone know how to test the door optics on this s plus 5 times pay
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The theme does not matter.
Use a cell camera to look at the optics.
The emitter will show a bit of ir light that the camera will pick up.
The candle flashing is a good indicator that it sees your door open.
Do a search for candle codes on the site.
When you close the door the reels will spin once and land on the last played position.
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Does anyone know how to test the door optics on this s plus 5 times pay
Jay mentioned one way to test the door emitter optic with a cellphone camera.
The best way to check if the cabinet reciever optic is getting power is to use a multi-meter set to 20Vdc, and the reciever optic disconnected, I get a fluctuating power reading bouncing between 8.5 - 8.7 volts on the harness that runs to the cabinet rciever optic.
The harness will have doubled-green wires and a single red wire going to the Molex housing.
To check if the cabinet reciever optic actually works, touch both ends of the male pins inside the housing with your multimeter set at 200 milivolts DC.
Put the red multimeter probe on the back of the housing 's pin w/the white wire.
Put the black multimeter probe on the back of the housing's pin w/the red wire.
When you shine flashlight into the optic, watch the numbers on the multimeter jump about 30-50 milli-volts.
Now you know it works.
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your reply #32 tells me why you do not have a display, you put one of the connectors in the wrong place. probably put the meters connector in J14 instead of J5.
use the flip cards in the Splus section , run test 13, that will check the door optics.
Hope this Helps
Jim
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Thanks Jim. I now have a display. I am not sure how to run the optic test you recommend
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Good catch on the wrong plug placement Jim.
If you READ the flip cards, it'll pretty show you how to test the optics for the door open switch.
https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=18866.0;attach=53770
What's showing on the display?
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
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Thanks for the response. I will let you know as soon as I can run the test
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I got it back together but I get the reel tilt codes. I replaced reel #1. I bought the machine with a code 41. Now it says code 42. I hit the reset key and the first number that comes up is 50. I obviously don't know how to run the test properly as the next thing I get is all zeros.
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The machine getting the reel codes could be a couple of things, either a bad MPU or mis-adjusted door optics...even a bad , loose ground wire on the optic harness somewhere along the lines could be triggering the reels to stop.
Also, check if any of the reel strips are loose on the baskets?
Make sure nothing rubs or touches the back top of the reel glass long display?
Did you tighten the display good? It's not leaning backwards onto the reel baskets?
The display should be up tight against the reel glass.
I believe "50" means Page 5 for "Player Selectable Credits"...I'm not sure....read the Diagnostic Flip Tests carrds.
Go here to this link below, and read it and try to understand it...>>>
https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=18866.0;attach=53770
Anyways, keep hitting the little white Test button until you get to Page 10 on the display.
When you get to Page 10, turn the Jackpot Reset Key 3 times to get to diagnostic input test [13-0].
From there, close the door with the door latch in the fully downward position, while at the same time watching the [13-0] on the display.
The number zero or one should change to a number one or zero, or alternatively start flashing - meaning the door optics are working, and "seeing" each other.
If it DOESN'T change, then one of the optics is burned out or something else is wrong.
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I will give it a try. Also I have yet to see the reels move by themselves when the door is closed or powered up. Thanks for your time and help
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13.0 no changes
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"No changes" in the zero means you hven't yet done any checks as mentioned in Reply #36.
The reels will not move unless you move them, or until the optics "see" each other.
Try this then, turn OFF the power switch, move the reels randomly to any position, turn the power switch back ON and tell us what happens.
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Good morning. I tried it and the reels didn’t move.
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I forgot to mention that I did check the reels. They all turn freely. I checked for voltage at the optic inside the machine and it appears to be correct.
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13.0 no changes
So to clarify...When on the 13-0 and you close and latch door all the way, the "0" does not change to a "1" and doesnt go back and forth from 1 to 0? If that is the case then your optics are not working....Either bad, broken connection, misaligned or board issues. First go with the misalligned route and test again. Place a piece of tape where the center of the optics are on the case and the door as if it was fully latched. Then close and see if the tape lines up. If so, then you know they are aligned and now can move on to figuring out why they dont work. I would replace with a good set, align and test again...often thats the issue.
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I would like to verify the location of the sensors. Does it matter where the transmitter and receiver go.
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Yes. The one with red and black wires mount to the door. The one with red and white wires mount to the cabinet.
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They are installed correctly. Is there a way to test them? I got some advice to test them using my multimeter but I was told to check millivolts but I don't know how it works. If I test for power on the sensors I get system voltage when they are plugged in
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They are installed correctly. Is there a way to test them? I got some advice to test them using my multimeter but I was told to check millivolts but I don't know how it works. If I test for power on the sensors I get system voltage when they are plugged in
Easiest way to test first is like i motioned and others probably too. Go to 13 test and see if it bounces between 0 and 1. Also make sure they are aligned as mentioned. Report back on that first.
Watch video https://youtu.be/MpZjM2dVPGs
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13-0 no change. Alignment is good
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I forgot to mention that I did check the reels. They all turn freely....
They shouldn't just turn completely "freely"...ther should be noticable resistance.
Move the power supply connector Molex that plugs into the motherboard while watching the reels.
The reels should look like they're jolted with electricity as you move the Molex connector up and down the on the male pins.
If you take the Molex off, turn it around, you'll see that the housing becomes browned from overheating on one of the ground pins.
You can clean the female and male pins with De-Oxit or some sort of de-oxidization spray can you can get at an auto parts store.
Over time, the pins get de-oxidization...sort of like on car battery terminals and causes bad electrical contact.
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Hi thanks for the response. I have replaced the power supply harness already. The reels are stiff when it's powered up I just don't see them move when I close the door.
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Replacing that harness really does NOT fix the problem of oxidized male pins on the motherboard.
Some people just get lucky getting better electrical contact somewhat by rubbing off the oxidization when they pull/push on the Molex connector up and down on the male pins.
okay, could you try this with the door open?
Turn the power [OFF], move all three reels by hand about a 1/4 turn...like about 4 or 5 symbols.
Now turn [ON] the power switch....do the reels turn back to where they were before?
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I replaced the board as well. I moved the reels and they stay put
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If you moved the reels by hand and they didn't move when you turned the power back [ON], but are "stiff"as you state, then you must replace the MPU.
Here's what we know...>>>
1). The door optics don't work.
2). The coin-in optics' won't add credits when pressing the Service Credit button.
3). The reels don't work.
4). The meters were plugged into the wrong location on the motherboard.
You may have fried something on the MPU when you did #4? :burningresistor:
Someone pulled out/pushed in the MPU while the power switch was [ON]?
Pins are bent, folded under, or touching each other under the MPU, or SS/SP chips?
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I had the display plugged in the wrong socket. J14 and J6. Will that damage the board?
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I had the display plugged in the wrong socket. J14 and J6. Will that damage the board?
If it doesnt work, then yes it could have. Does it work now?
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Yes the display works. The game still doesn't see that the door is closed
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Good morning. I am still stuck with this s plus 5 times pay thinking the door is open. I just replaced the optics with a brand new pair from spin and there's no change. The cash box door switch is bypassed. The cash box is still present. I tested the wiring from the optic connector back to the circuit board. I have replaced the mother board as well. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Patrick
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If memory serves there is a door switch located in the upper left corner of the belly glass door. Tie that one off.
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I don't see any switch on the belly glass. It doesn't have a door of its own. Thank you
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is it possible this is an S not an S+?
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How do you tell the difference
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There's a knurled knob in front of the door opener and it is spring loaded and pulls out. It has a spot for a lock next to it
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pull that knob and hinge the door open the switch is in the upper left corner
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I still don't see the switch. What is the purpose of the knob
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It's a door knob used to open the belly glass door. You can't see the switch, if it has one, until you open the door.
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There's two knobs next to each other. One is lifted up to open the door and the other one is a spring loaded pull knob
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yeah...pull on that knurled one.
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What's it for? I pulled on it and it didn't do anything.
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Like the door handle latch, it won't do anything until you pull the door open.
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I opened the door and I found an connector. Two pin one is green. The other pin has two brown wires. This is in the upper left corner. Nothing to plug it into
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your looking for a switch in the upper left corner with 2 terminals plugged into the back of the switch. wire colors are green/ blue and the other is green. tie that off.
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There's no switch there just the 3 pin connector. I don't even see where a switch was mounted. Isn't it supposed to have a switch?
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I am still not getting anywhere with this machine always thinking the door is open. I bypassed the cash box door switch. There's a switch on the back wall of the cash box with a six blade terminal with nothing going to and no wiring harness anywhere near it. Any ideas.
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Please stop creating new threads for the same issue with the same machine. I have merged all four of your threads about this machine into this one thread.
Creating new threads for the same issue with the same machine just causes confusion about what you've already tried to fix it.
Thank you.
-Kevin
:nlg-logo: Admin
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Thanks Jim you were right I moved them and now I have a display
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Take a picture of the belly door switch.
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Such as
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Nevermind...I'm glad your machine's display is working now, but you need to get the cabinet receiver optic to see the door emitter, in order for the machine to work.
Earlier, (Reply #67) I asked you to shut OFF the machine, move the reels by hand, then power the machine back ON.
Your MPU should have returned the reels back to their original position after you moved them.
It doesn't matter if the door was open or closed, the reels should have moved.
That didn't happen.
Go shopping.
You need a new MPU.
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Thanks. I am not familiar with the process. I bought this machine not working from a guy who got the machine in lieu of money. Do they disable them on purpose?
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Is it seeing the door open and close now?
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No sir.