New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: riothecat on November 07, 2015, 08:01:47 PM
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i have an igt wild cherry 2 coin no dollar acceptor. Last week it stopped working. First I need to purchase a door "eye" kit. A wire broke off the machine side. I will post more if that does not work. Thanks for your time :Scratch-Head:
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We'll need to know which model IGT you have. A picture of the front and one of the inside should work
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Search on this site "door optic bypass" You can just get rid of the optics that way.
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Well welcome to NLG. Thanks for the warning ;) but is the wire repairable? You're talking about the door optics I assume?
There are ways to correct that. Don't rush into anything until we know what's going on.
Dave
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Here are the front and inside.
Removed duplicate images. -knagl
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The cabinet side optic lost one of the wires. Too small for me to solder back on. I don't have a problem disabling it.
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<fixed photo orientation>
Is this an early IGT S+ without DBV but has motherboard for MPU to plug into?
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I had a problem with it a couple of years ago and folks here thought it might be an early s+ Or late s. Knagle gave me that info. "Edit" a sheet in the door says m+/s+
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Agreed. The general rule is if the MPU board plugs into another board (called the motherboard) then it is an S+. If the MPU instead is connected to wiring harnesses that connect directly to the MPU board then it is an S model.
Another reported difference is the S model does not have door optics, the S+ model does.
The S models were not built to have a bill validator, but some of the early S+ models didn't either, and that throws people off sometimes. Does the idplate below the pull handle say the model?
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There is a aluminum cover that has a big black knob on it that slides up and I can take that out. And slides into some type of connectors.
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There is a aluminum cover that has a big black knob on it that slides up and I can take that out. And slides into some type of connectors.
That pretty much nails it as being an S+ model. The aluminum cover has the MPU board mounted to the inside of it. The knob is used to remove the mpu from the motherboard. There is a volume control along the top edge of the MPU assembly. On newer versions of the MPU the volume level is done via software in the setup screens, so a manual volume control is missing from the MPU.
I had a problem with it a couple of years ago and folks here thought it might be an early s+ Or late s. Knagle gave me that info. "Edit" a sheet in the door says m+/s+
Speaking of Mr knagl, here's what Kevin has to say about this very subject:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=8038.msg42892#msg42892 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=8038.msg42892#msg42892)
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So... We've decided what model it is. Can I bypass the optic eye? I don't need it for security since it is just for my use, but, is it required? I would also like to purchase a test switch (on the front of the aluminum case that holds the MPU) it is a pretty small switch but I have a bigger one in there now.
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From what I've heard you can't bypass the optics on an S+ model. So you'd need to order a new optic sensor and replace it. If it was an S2000 model there is a way to bypass them mentioned elsewhere on NLG.
Here is a thread about it:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=8003.msg42684#msg42684 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=8003.msg42684#msg42684)
Slot parts vendors sometimes have the optic parts, here is one for example, not sure if this is the correct door optic for your machine:
http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1589&search=optic (http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1589&search=optic)
As for the TEST switch maybe someone parting out a machine has one available. You could try sending a PM to one of the vendors listed on NLG home page. Switches can be ordered from online places like Jameco, DigiKey or Mouser but you'd need to know the correct switch, have to look at another machine to see what should be there, or have someone tell you the right one so it would fit the hole correctly and attach to the wires easily with the slip on contacts. The correct pushbutton switch is probably something like this one, but with larger terminals for the slip on type contacts attached to the wires. If you don't mind soldering the switch wires to the new switch terminals then just about any switch that fits the hole will work. One thing to watch for, push button switches usually have "normally open" contacts that close (connect) when you press the button, but some push button switches are the opposite. You can check the switch in the machine now to see which type (N/O or N/C) you need.
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_121305_-1 (http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_121305_-1)
or this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Mini-Push-Button-SPST-Momentary-N-O-OFF-ON-Switch-10mm-Red-/321279754705?hash=item4acdc401d1:g:YHwAAOSwcnpTmLiq (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Mini-Push-Button-SPST-Momentary-N-O-OFF-ON-Switch-10mm-Red-/321279754705?hash=item4acdc401d1:g:YHwAAOSwcnpTmLiq)
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Search on this site "door optic bypass" You can just get rid of the optics that way.
Rick- I searched but only found a bypass method for the S2000 model, did I miss the one for the S+ ?
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I think stayouttadabunker had a way to do it posted on the old site
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S+ Bypass switch http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=16714.msg141959#msg141959. (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=16714.msg141959#msg141959.)
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It looks like the cherry switch method will work on the early S+. I checked both of mine (early and later) and it looks like it can be done. The early machines have the optics mounted lower because of the lack of a b/v. But looking up in the reel section there seems to be room to mount the hardware. You will have to do some drilling and or tapping for mounting the brackets and switch. A little time and work but I believe you can do it. Good luck!
Dave
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Dave, I guess I don't know what you are talking about with a cherry switch.
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The link at the bottom of rickhunter's post shows a picture of a switch that often is inside later S+ and S2000 machines. Cherry is a brand name. It's the white one at the bottom. I think most of our vendors will carry all the parts you will need to bypass the optics, if that is what you're wanting to do.
Dave
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Dave, I guess I don't know what you are talking about with a cherry switch.
It might be easier and faster for you to just replace the broken optic part.
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Dave, I guess I don't know what you are talking about with a cherry switch.
It might be easier and faster for you to just replace the broken optic part.
My thoughts exactly.
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Dave, I guess I don't know what you are talking about with a cherry switch.
It might be easier and faster for you to just replace the broken optic part.
My thoughts exactly.
yeah, the optics bypass might be good for machines that have a door alignment problem where someone is continually having problems with the optics not lining up, or if someone just wants to be able to play the machine normally with the door open for some reason. But under normal circumstances on a machine with no warped chassis or drooping door it just makes sense to me to replace the bad optic part.
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Yes and add to the fact it's the early style S+. So all the parts are going to have to be bought. I think for riothecat it's faster and easier to replace the optic than to retrofit a switch, brackets etc. If it were me that's what I'd do.
Dave
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Yea I think I'll replace the optics and go from there. I'll come back when I get those if I have other problems. Thanks so much.
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When you get your set of door optics, make sure you install them correctly.
The door optics will have red and black wires.
The cabinet receiver optics will have red and white wires.
Rudys Deals sells them cheap... Google 'em
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^^^Uh....I'd wish someone would remove the stupid NLG blue sticker from my picture? :thank_you:
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Bunker!! How the hell are ya stranger?!
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^^^Uh....I'd wish someone would remove the stupid NLG blue sticker from my picture? :thank_you:
Dang! I removed the logo but it got reinstalled up in the corner......
Hey - isn't "reciever" spelled "receiver",
'i before e, except after c" according to Mr Amos,
my high school english teacher.
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1 out of 2, batting .500 as I see it. :applause:
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Bunker!! How the hell are ya stranger?!
haha! Still alive and kicking up here in the Eastern Woodlands! :p
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^^^Uh....I'd wish someone would remove the stupid NLG blue sticker from my picture? :thank_you:
Dang! I removed the logo but it got reinstalled up in the corner......
Hey - isn't "reciever" spelled "receiver",
'i before e, except after c" according to Mr Amos,
my high school english teacher.
Haha! Thanks Rok! It's the thought and effort that counts! :rotfl:
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One pic is of the swithch I am in need of. On is the location in which it lives. Need to know if anyone has one (Rudys deals is looking) and the proper wire positions. Optics on the way. Thanks
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That's a pretty common pushbutton switch, they are used on a lot of machines, should be able to locate one no problem. It has 3 terminals on the backside, the center one is the COMMON, the others are the Normally Open and the Normally Closed terminals. That way it can be used in a variety of circuits. One of your switch wires goes to the COMMON terminal, the other wire probably goes to the Normally Open terminal. That way the wires are not connected until you push the switch button.
If no one can say for sure how the wires get attached you can figure it out. Just take the wires loose from that substitute switch and leave them apart in the air. Turn on the machine, then touch the 2 wires together, this is the same thing a switch will do. If that causes the machine to enter Test/Diagnostics mode then you know that the wires should be connected to the Normally Open terminal and the Common terminal. The voltage on the wires is low, probably something like 5 volts, or 12 volts at the highest, it is just a logic signal.
Actually, a pushbutton switch with only 2 terminals would also work, since there are only 2 wires that get connected, it would just have to be the correct type (Normally Open or Normally Closed, whatever your machine needs).
Is that your old switch in your photo, is it bad?
Here is one in a Williams slot machine, it is the red one on the right.
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The switch didn't work last time I had an issue and replaced it with a bulky one. Just trying to get it right. It only has 2 wires on it. I found one but am waiting on rudys deals.
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I think this is the switch you need, it fits in a hole 1/4 inch size, may be available somewhere else for less:
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_121305_-1 (http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_121305_-1)
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Thank you
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Ok got the optics in. Put the test switch in. Put it all back together, turned it on. Nothing but lights. No candle light however. Thoughts?
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Also not sure if the test switch is connect correctly as I don't know what it is supposed to do. Thanks
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Put it all back together, turned it on. Nothing but lights. No candle light however. Thoughts?
Check the power supply cable that runs between the power supply and the motherboard. Details here:
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=14163.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=14163.0)
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All connections look good.
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All connections look good.
Remove the plug that goes to the motherboard and inspect it for the burn mark like is shown in the pictures of the thread I linked to in Reply #38 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=8771.msg48236#msg48236). Then, plug it back in and try again. Sometimes just the act of removing the plug and re-seating it is enough to get the juice flowing again.
If that still doesn't make a change, please tell us exactly what is lighting up and what isn't lighting up when you have the machine on. Also, when the machine is on, are the reels "stiff", or are they just as loose in turning as they are with the machine off?
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Unplugged and reseated everything on motherboard. When powered on the pay glass is lit up. And the 2 flourescent light on the door are lit. Also the wheels are stiff and can feel vibrations in them. No led lights or candle light are lit.
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That white Molex coming from the power supply to the motherboard usually has a badly oxidized 2nd pin when looking at the Molex connector housing from the front of the machine.
If you pull off the connector from the motherboard and turn it around, the housing will be stained, sorta brownish in color.
That means the female pin inside wasn't grabbing the male pin very solid.
What happens is that over time the female pin weakens over time from heat...then it progressively gets weaker and weaker until there's actually micro-arcing going on inside the between the male and female pin contacting points.
Soooo...what you REALLY need to do is get a new female pin and swap it out from the Molex,...or, if micro-electronics isn't your game - a new power harness from somebody like Rudy's Steals & Deals.
Here's a little trick to see if this is true and has worked well for me for years and years.
With the power on and maybe someone watching the door display panel and LED's, pull up on the Molex by the wires and tilt it about 25 degrees to the right.
The LED's on the display should come on.
What you did was get a new connection and contact points inside that Molex on the male motherboard circuit pin and got a new ground shooting power to the display LEDs.. this verifies that the problem lies in that weakened female receiver pin in the Molex.
Of course, DON'T do this if you're not comfortable grabbing live wires.
It's always worked for me in a pinch and need to find out fast.
I haven't had a chance to read other above posts but the top fuse on the power supply oughta be checked for continuity as well.
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Would the reels be stiff if the usual molex connector was the issue? I thought the reels would be loose if that connector was the problem?
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Both fuses are good. No led lights, no candle lights. The reels are stiff and I have a vibration in them. The pay glass lights up and the door lights up.
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Rio, I had a machine with no displays and after checking everything I knew, I just said what the hell and did a clear. The display came right on and I cleared it. Turned out the guy before me had put the ss and sp chips into the wrong spots. Chips were no good but figured the problem out. Good Luck
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I guess I need a clear chip. And while I'm at it after I get this problem fixed is there a way to take it from 2 coin to three coin? And is the machine new enough to put a bill validator on it? So many questions and only 23 days until I need it to work. Thanks for all your help. But Lets try and at least get it running.
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Those are the early S+ machines. Not really adaptable to b/vs. When those had them they were mounted on the outside. If it was me, I'd stay with coins. They can be made a 3 coin machine with different chips glass etc. Probably somebody here has the stuff. Good luck.
Dave
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Just post a Classified ad for a 3-coin Top Glass and SS chip. Strips are the same for 2-coin and 3-coin single line games. You will need to tell what size top glass you need though (9" tall, 16" tall, or Round Top).
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This issue resolved. There was a hidden fuse looks like aftermarket hiding behind its usual living spot. Thanks for your help. Coming soon another problem under new thread
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This issue resolved. There was a hidden fuse looks like aftermarket hiding behind its usual living spot. Thanks for your help. Coming soon another problem under new thread
Ahhh! The ol' hidden :sherlock: fuse problem! :Tongue_Out:
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Would the reels be stiff if the usual molex connector was the issue? I thought the reels would be loose if that connector was the problem?
Yeah knags! :I_agree_1: I thought :Scratch-Head: about that after I wrote my long document on the motherboard power Molex... :rotfl:
That's why I added "check the fuses" at the end of my post! :propeller:
Of course, from the picture he posted, we couldn't see his power supply fuse panel with the hopper in the way!!! :fryingpan: :banghead: LOL
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Yes. I saw 2 fuses number 2 and 3 but 1 was just a hole. But stuck my fat head back there and saw another fuse holder and checked the fuse and blow and behold. Thanks for all the help. But suddenly it has a no coin error and I've taken it out sprayed it with wd40 and nothing it spins but no coins come out. I'll work on that tomorrow and see what's happens. Thanks again.
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Do you mean a 3100? Open and close the door and it should clear unless you needed to pay out. In that case you need to feed it until it is done.
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It's full of quarters. It just won't spit them out.
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Is this is a 3100 error? You may need to check if there is a quarter stuck under the knife or the shelf etc. Dump the quarters out and check for something stuck anywhere.
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I've done that. Took it all out... Took the plastic knife off... Sprayed wd40..: it just doesn't spit coins out. Maybe time for a new hopper.
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You mean it spins by hand? If that is so, maybe check for electricity at the plug. If it is spinning by itself, there is something causing the coins not to come out. Don't spend any money until this is figured out.
Dave
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I hear it spinning. But it does not spit out coins. I Can hear it spinning... It spins for several seconds stops spins for a second and stops and goes to error code. Open the door and same thing.
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I hear it spinning. But it does not spit out coins. I Can hear it spinning... It spins for several seconds stops spins for a second and stops and goes to error code. Open the door and same thing.
Your hopper knife is either mis-aligned or the tip is broken enough that it's not lifting the coins off of the shelf wheel. Pull the hopper out and give us a few good pictures of the thing and we might be able to see what the issue is.
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Hopper knife is my opinion also. It needs to sit flat and tight against the plate. Put 10 coins or so in it and turn it by hand to see what's happening. Or press test button until you see a 3 in coins played window then turn reset key for hopper test. It should pay 10 coins. Pretty sure you can leave the door open to watch. And WD40 is not a good idea. You want things clean not oily.
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.... And WD40 is not a good idea. You want things clean not oily.
:agreepost: OMG! Can you imagine? Dust and lint STICKS to oil!!!! :duh:
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I took the hopper out and apart. Cleaned it ccompletely and reinstalled it. Seems to work once again. Thank you for all your help again.
On a separate note, I can't seem to find tokens anywhere. I think I want the .984 but not sure. Fanni slots is a name I see but their link seems not to work. Any other thoughts?
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Fannini Slots is a member on here, so you could send him a PM.
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I guess they're super busy