New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: Jules on February 24, 2015, 04:01:47 PM
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Hi, I'm new to this board so I hope someone can help me. I am getting a 61-2 error code on my machine. I recently fried a cmos chip in my Fives game. I have replaced it with another cmos chip and the 61-2 error message popped up. I was advised by one of the techs at Newlife games to do a ram clear which I did, but am still getting this same code. I have tried pushing the little metal button on the back of my off/on switch, but no response and no change. I am lost as what to do next??? Please help me get this thing working.
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Does your machine have the mpu to the front on the left or in the back on the left? BTW welcome to NLG.
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It is on the back of the machine.
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Ok just to make sure. Are you holding the button for a few seconds? Sometimes they might take longer than 2 or 3. Just trying to get something to happen.
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61-2 recoverable CMOS error. Open Door, push self test button for 3-5 seconds. I am guessing it will go to 61-1 then close door and turn key.
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The candle light is on flashing fast on bottom and slow on top. Holding the self test button in for 3 to 5 seconds does not change the 61-2
message.
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This might be a dumb question but you did put the new chip in facing the right direction? Notch facing the same as the others on the board. The sockets on those usually have a notch also.
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Try pulling cmos chip and lighty rub/scratch legs across metal. Then install it and restart machine. If that doesn't work replace cmos chip with a known good one.
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Also make sure one of the legs is not bent and out of the socket.
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Not having any luck. Do I need to replace the cmos chip? If so, what do I need to look for? Thanks for everyone's suggestions.
I'll continue this project tomorrow.
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Catch us up on what you have tried and haven't tried please. Just so we are all on same page. Thx! :yes:
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When I turned my machine on for the first time, I got a 61-2 error code. I tried using the reset key one time and it did not change, powered off and on and got the same result, tried pushing in and holding the white reset button for 5 or more seconds and nothing changed. I was next told to do a clear on my cmos memory chip since that was the chip that I replaced. I tried that and no change. I tried doing all the suggestions on the board with no luck including rubbing the legs on metal, checked the legs to be sure they were straight, and in the socket straight etc.
This morning I went ahead and ordered a new cmos chip which I hope helps the cause???
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What fried your chip to begin with? Making me think the board is damaged also. I have had a couple machines that pushing the button did not do anything also. The wire from that button goes down to the motherboard. Trace it down and make sure it is plugged in or making good contact. I have had to push and wiggle the button until my finger hurt also to make it work. I am suspecting board damage since fried chip.
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Putting the cmos chip in backwards is what fried my chip to begin with. One other thing when I turn the reset key I get all 5's straight across. When I turn the power off and turn it back on it returns to the 61-2 error message. I do have another board which is the same board number. It is complete, but is missing the reel and game chip which are on the old board. Do I need to replace these two chips or can I use the old ones? Thanks for everyones help.
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You can use your SP and SS chips. Did someone do an optic bypass on your machine? Sounds like it's not seeing the door as open to let the test button work. Or putting the chip in backward has that part of the board not working.
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I had new pins put in the burnt plug. When I turn it on, the candle ligts stopped flashing and the 61-2 error message is gone. The only light lit up is the 25 cents light in the middle of the display windows. No error messages at all. I tried shutting the door, and turning the reset key once, but this did not do anything. What do I need to try next? Thanks!
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Burnt plug? When did you find that? So are you saying that you have no led lights on the front of your machine? What about your reels? Are they stiff? You had digits before, 61-2, what changed? :Please_Post_Pictures_2: :Please_Post_Pictures_2clr:
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put a new ram chip in, repinned the burnt plug in and it cleared the error message, but now I have just the 25 cent light
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So there is no zero in coins played? Pictures help us so much. Like seeing the burnt connector. The 2 green wires are ground one 5 vac and one 12 vac. I will have to look at my notes Sunday to get you the right one to test in what order because two become 24vac. . You must be missing power. Check your fuses. Unless someone else posts I will get back to you.
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I checked the 3 fuses with the screw on caps in the front of the machine. They all tested good. l was advised to replace the burnt plug by one of the techs online at a slot machine shop. I had a tech replace the six pins in the burnt plug. I have several loose wire connectors (six), but was told for the time being to just fix the burnt plug and to not worry about the loose connectors as several of them are disconnected when the machine is taken out of service. I also replaced the cmos chip with a brand new one. I was getting a 61-2 error code which I could not clear before I did all this. It appears that the self test switch in the back of the on/off switch is not responding when I push it. Here is a picture of the burnt connector and the loose wires in the machine. Hopefully that will help. Now all I am getting when I power on is a lit 25 cent light in the front and no numbers in any of the windows on either side of the 25 cent light.
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The only thing that has changed is the power cable getting re-pinned. That has to be the problem. No power is going to something. Your burnt one had power going to the displays before and not now. When you turn on your machine, do the reels move freely (by hand) or are they stiff? Please post a close up picture of the cable after it was re-pinned. You have your old picture of the burnt one, compare it to the after harness to make sure the color pattern goes the right way. When it's plugged into the mother board the green wires should be to the right. this picture shows the plug turned around backwards for showing the burn mark. remember the 2 green go to the right.
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OK Jules, here's the diagram of the wiring for that harness and the voltages. Thanks to commtech for the diagram.
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Thanks! for posting the diagram. Not having an electronics background, I am a little challenged by figuring these pictures totally out.
I understand the numbering of the burnt plug from right to left. I am guessing that the second picture is showing me where these wires connect on the other end? I'm not really sure what I should do next other than check to see if these wires are plugged in properly.
Thanks again for providing this photo.
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So no answer about your reels? By your last response I have to guess you don't have a volt meter to check the voltages at the pins in the diagram. The diagram also showed what color wire should be at each pin#. Since you had a display before whoever repined your connector, it only makes sense that is where the problem is now. We ask questions to you and beg for answers to help you.
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Sorry that I posted in two places a related problem. My other post about disconnected s+ wires has been locked so I will post only here from now on. The reels on this machine move just a hair when it is turned on. They move, when turned by hand but there is a slight resistance like they are turning over a rubber blade or something. I have not been able to get any response out of the self test switch as far as I can tell. I had an individual who owns an electronic store and replaces these plug ends daily for a living so I am guessing he knew what he was doing. He replaced all six of the pins in the burnt plug and said the plug did not need to be replaced. I did not get a chance to turn the machine on until after he left. Of course, anyone can make a mistake. I also replaced the cmos chip with a new one that I had fried earlier.
I have never had this machine working fully, but was told it did so when I acquired it. I do have a volt meter, but am not sure exactly how to check it unless it involves putting one lead in each opening of the plug and the other on the prong that the opening goes on? I am not able to find the diagram which was provided to me earlier by the user name rockinelvis so I would really appreciate that posted again. Here are close ups of the before and after pictures of the power plug that was repinned. Sorry I don't have the plug diagram to check it with the pictures. Maybe it was on the wrong way to begin with? I will try to be a better at more rapid communication as I have had lots of disruptions today.
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Sorry that I posted in two places a related problem. My other post about disconnected s+ wires has been locked so I will post only here from now on.
No problem, Jules! I locked that other thread just to keep everything in the same place for the issue with your machine, so that way we didn't have people posting possible solutions or things to try in multiple places, repeating work or troubleshooting steps that may have already been done. Good luck with getting your machine fixed -- the folks here are the best. :yes:
The other thread, for reference, is located here (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=5525.0).
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diagram is in reply 21. If you can, print the diagram in color and check for the proper color wires in each position. Turn on machine. with your volt meter set to AC put black lead in slot at the # 2 spot. With #1 being all the way to right and #6 being all the way to the left. Next put the red lead in #3 slot. should be 7 vac. next put red lead in #4 slot. should be 8 vac. next put black lead in #6 slot and red in #5 slot. should be 24 vac. Since your saying the reels are stiff you must have the 7 vac at least.
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Here is a diagram of what should be plugged into your mother board.
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Thank you! That is very helpful. Please list the steps again which you would take in order to troubleshoot this problem. The set up button in back of the off/on switch back does not appear to do anything neither does the reset key when turned outside of the cabinet. Basically it appears that I have no power as the lights come on including the 25 cent light in the middle of the machine, but no lights in any of the display windows. When I put a metal non magnetic token in the coin comparator it falls straight through to the coin tray. Thanks! again for any and all of everyone's time in helping me with these problems.
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see reply #26. Jules, where do you live?
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Thank you. I will give that a try.
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Litchfield Park, Arizona
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I checked out the colored power wires with a bright light and they match in color to the order of the
picture of the power plug that you sent me. I got the following readings on my voltmeter:
black lead in slot 2 of the plug and red in slot 3 of the plug-----8.22vac
black lead in slot 2 of the plug and red in slot 4 of the plug--8vac
black lead in slot 6 and red in slot 5--25.2vac
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That first voltage should have been 7 vac. Lets try this. The flat connector that was burnt. With power off slide it up and down the 6 pins several times. Those pins may have oxidation on them and maybe this will clean them up a little. Then try putting the 6 wire flat connector only half way on or 3/4 max. Turn it on and lets see. We have to get your displays on again to move on. Is there anything else that was done while replacing the pins in the flat connector? If still no displays look at the back side of the display and on the end is a flat connector. Put it on and off several times also. When you replaced the burnt CHIP on your board, was it the same as original? I am hoping that there was no damage done to the board. Why did you have to replace that chip to begin with? I know you said you put it in backward. Why was it removed?
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The cmos chip was removed because I read online that I should do a ram clear. The new chip I purchased was from JJ slots. I tried sliding the power plug up and down with no luck. I also slid the small black plug on the board to the right of the coin comparator with no luck. Is this the connecter you were talking about? I might mention that I have another used cpu board that I could try. It does not have the reel and game chips. I guess I could maybe try that. Tim, at JJ slots said that putting the cmos ram chip in backwards would not have damaged other parts of my board. That is why I have not tried this other board. Thanks again for your great advice. I will not do anything else until I hear back from someone on the board.
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I think we have a BINGO. You took the cmos chip out and put the clear in it's place??? It is the SP chip you needed to remove for the clear chip. JJ is a chip expert. Send him a message and ask what happens now. I do a lot with these machines, but I have never known of this being done before. You may need a new SP and SS chip. I'm sorry to say, I just don't know. But, now we are on track. Just for giggles, remove the SP chip and put the clear in it. Power machine on and maybe the display will come on then you can do clear sequence. Pay attention to the notch on chips.
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Boy! I hope you are right. I will email JJ and see what he tells me to do. Sorry, but I have been out this evening so will get on this tomorrow morning. Thanks! Bunches! Jules
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I contacted and exchanged email messages with JJ slots today I told him about the ram clear that I apparently did on the wrong chip. He replied by asking me for a picture of my motherboard. He had me reconnect one loose wire to the motherboard. I also put in the new reel, game chip and cmos chip that I got from him. I turned the power on and the insert coin, and coins inserted? light came on (the display to the right of the insert coin) and the candlelight flashed off and on a few times and then it stopped and there was nothing. I turned it off and on once and the reel on the left side moved in circles in a jittery fashion. The center reel did not move and the reel on the far right did the same thing as the one on the left in a slower fashion. He emailed me back and said it most likely was a board or poor connection problem.
This most likely does not help a rookie at fooling with electronics like me. I do have another used board which was untested which I could swap out as well as the game, reel, and cmos chips. This may be a complete waste of time as it was an untested cpu board that i got. I could buy some tested boards, but then again it could be a connector problem which then would do me no good.
In summary, I am not a real happy camper today. Thanks again for everyone's help.
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If it were mine, I would move the chips to the other board. Worst case is it will do nothing also. Best case ??? Maybe. Check you battery voltage on other board. Your explanation on the reels if unusual. Look under the reels and make sure all 3 are plugged in. Usually when the reels do what you described it is all 3 and you just open the door and turn the key then close the door. All good unless something is rubbing one.
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Moved the chips over to the other board, checked the correct direction and that all the pins on each chip are where they should be. Now, I have nothing at all. Before I had the comparator light coming off and on when I first started it up also. Guessing it must be a connector somewhere, but have checked all the ones I could see inside the cabinet, but I could be missing some. I would get a different tested board, but I am guessing it may be in my connections. Thanks! for being patient with me.
Maybe a picture of all the connectors inside the cabinet, especially in the top right corner of the cabinet and behind the self test switch since it doesn't seem to be responding when I push the button nor does the jackpot reset key. Thanks! Again
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Checked the battery on the second board and it was good also.
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what problem did you have with this machine originally?? what led you to replace the cmos chip?? do the display's come on at all? sounds as if the second board is dead. the first board: the SP chip goes in the socket labeled GAME PROM, the SS chip goes in the socket labeled REEL PROM, the CMOS goes in the socket labeled CMOS, all the notches on the chips face the connector side of the board. Sounds as if you have all the right AC voltages at the power plug and the wire colors are correct. when you turn on power to the machine you should observe the following: the florescent bulbs are on, the displays show something, the denom lamp on. the reels should be stiff, not easily moved, should take effort to move them. you have to verify all the correct connectors are plugged into the right places on the motherboard, this is IMPORTANT, there is a connector that can be plugged into the wrong place and it will cause your displays to be out. also check the plug that connects the small transformer to the board. (located on the removable panel that the board is attached to) a easy test for the fuses, with the power on, undo each one, the flor. lamps will go off when one is undone, the reels will not be stiff when one is undone and the denom lamp will go out when the other is undone. what game kit is in your machine? could you post an up close picture of your board .
Jim
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I have not had this machine running, but was told it was working when I received it. I replaced the game, reel and cmos chips with new ones. I replaced the cmos chip when I accidentally fried it (which I am told was the wrong chip) trying to do a ram clear as all I was getting was a 61-2 message when I first started it up so I tried to clear it. The power cable has been repinned with new pins, and the 3 screw in fuses tested good with a voltmeter. I also checked the power connector cable after repinning and there was voltage in the six sockets. Not sure where the 120 volt fuse is at as I have not tested it? Here are some up close pictures of the mother and cpu boards. Also a picture of the loose wire connectors. I tried a different used board switching my game, reel and cmos chips with no luck. The machine is basically dead with only fluorescents. Some slight resistance on the reels when turned. Thanks! for your help.
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I have not had this machine running, but was told it was working when I received it. I replaced the game, reel and cmos chips with new ones. I replaced the cmos chip when I accidentally fried it (which I am told was the wrong chip) trying to do a ram clear as all I was getting was a 61-2 message when I first started it up so I tried to clear it. The power cable has been repinned with new pins, and the 3 screw in fuses tested good with a voltmeter. I also checked the power connector cable after repinning and there was voltage in the six sockets. Not sure where the 120 volt fuse is at as I have not tested it? Here are some up close pictures of the mother and cpu boards. Also a picture of the loose wire connectors. I tried a different used board switching my game, reel and cmos chips with no luck. The machine is basically dead with only fluorescents. Some slight resistance on the reels when turned. Thanks! for your help.
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lets go back to the original board, put the chips on that board and put it in the machine and turn it on and lets see what you have ,and go from there!.
picture of the cpu board would be nice. game type and chip numbers would be nice.
Jim
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This is a Five Times Pay machine. I switched the game, reel and cmos chips back to the original board. They are brand new and you can read the numbers on the pic. When I put this original board back in the machine the insert coin and the coin accept windows flashed 3 or 4 times and so did the green comparator light and then nothing after that. I removed the 3 fuses and each one resonded as Jim said. Here are some pics of the chips, and cpu board.
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I would try and clear the machine. The clear chip goes in the SP socket. turn the game on, should hear a ding,then press the white test button (behind the on/off switch) the display should count up the stop and restart again. do this twice. now put the SP chip back in and see what happens.
Jim
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I took the sp game chip out of the socket and replaced it with the clear. I then turned it back on and there was no ding when doing so.
The displays did not show anything so I did not see a count up of numbers, but I did this a couple of times and nothing really happened.
I put the game chip back in and turned on the machine. The comparator light, the coin insert and coin accepted flashed, but did not stay on.
The reels did move slightly up and down especially the left one.
At the same time, the coin hopper moter started to turn with the lights flashing. I had not seen this happen before so I was somewhat thrilled by it. The hopper tray is full of tokens and I am starting to wonder if this might be part of the problem although it does not explain why the machine acted the way it did when doing the clear. I am starting to see some small progress so please get back to me.
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Jim, could he have damaged his clear chip by putting it in the CMOS? Jules, don't get another clear chip until we hear from Jim. You are the only person I know that made that mistake so it is a grey area of knowledge for me. I did have a friends machine suddenly lose it's displays and when I changed the board it was good. When I started checking things I put my board in with my chips in and it worked. When I put my chips in his board it didn't. When I traded the CMOS chip it followed the CMOS chip.
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at this point I have to suspect the board is defective. Its hard to troubleshoot the machine when you don't have a known good board to sub. I think all the power supply voltages are good, can't be certain of the +5vdc, there's no where to measure it that you can get to. as a last ditch effort I would swap out the cpu chip and see if that makes a difference. we are at a point of chasing our tail, short of buying a new board (know good ,tested) I don't know what to tell you next. I have a S+ board tester, if you want, you could send me the board and tray assembly and I could test them. the cpu chip would come from the other board you have, as always, be sure all the legs get into the socket and don't get folded over.
Jim
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Tried switching the cpu chip and it did the same thing. I have decided to just get a new board instead of trying to repair the old one. I will report back to the group as soon as I have replaced it. Thanks! everyone for the great suggestions.
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Got a new board today from a slot machine company. They cleared the board, and priovided me with the right reel and game chips. Also they married it to my dbv-200. Unfortunately, I now am getting a 65-1, tried pushing in the self test button as suggested in the trouble-shooting chart and no change. I have removed the cover on the off/on switch, everything is connected tightly, and removed the power box cover and checked all fittings. Also checked the fittings on the mpu board again. Called the slot machine company and did the above which is what they told me to do. Any further advice would be greatly appreciated.
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You have to hold the button for a few seconds until the 65-1 changes. It may change to a 65-2, then press and hold button again. It may change to a 65-3 turn jackpot reset key, then close door.
If it doesn't go from 2 to 3, and it just disappears, then just close door, and the game should be ready to play. The reason why you are getting the errors is because the backplane was not change so when you put in a new board, even if it was configured at the slot place, your backplane will complain that it does not have the same settings as the mpu board. The only way to really do what you described done at the shop, is for them to send you the mpu and the backplane, and then you change both.
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Try following the wires from the test button down to the bottom of the cabinet. They may be unplugged like many of your others were. Sometimes when you push the self test button you have to wiggle it also. I just had a problem where my button was not working. Pushed it at least 100 times. Turned machine this morning and it started working. Remember if you try a clear again to remove the SP chip and pay attention to the notch.
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Somebody please educate me with what a back pane board is on an s+ slot machine. A picture would be great. Thanks!
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It's the (mother board), the horizontal board that your cpu connects to.
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Hope your right because I just got another cpu and had it married to the motherboard.
Dumb Question of the Day----How do you remove the mpu board? Does it just pop up in the four corners like a pinball board?
Also, where can I find a s+ schematic online or does one need to buy one?
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The motherboard has a couple screws and it also has a few pins in the corners. You have to pop it up where the pins are. Sometimes they're hard to get loose.
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Thanks for the immediate response.
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Hope your right because I just got another cpu and had it married to the motherboard.
Dumb Question of the Day----How do you remove the mpu board? Does it just pop up in the four corners like a pinball board?
Also, where can I find a s+ schematic online or does one need to buy one?
Physically impossible to "marry" a backplane/motherboard to anMPU unless the 2 boards were in the same machine at the same time...
Photos show an MPU (1st fix)....and a motherboard/backplane (2nd pic)...
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Don't know who is right Rick Hunter or CV slots, but people on here are costing me a lot of money with their suggestions implying I should buy both a cpu and a motherboard and then have someone marry the two boards together. Still think it may be only a connector some where, but I have removed the cover on the off on switch and checked the connections, and taken the lid off the metal power supply box and checked the connectors in this box. Also I have pushed the self test button over a hundred times with no luck. I have also checked all connections on the mother board and at the bottom of the machine. Furthermore I have checked the plugs going into the top of the cpu box to make sure they were secure. Anyone have access to a schematic or place online where I can actually see where the connectors go. I do have a chart of the connections of the mother board which rockinelvis provided me. Pictures would be worth a thousand words. Is their a manual that shows where the connectors inside the cabinet go? Thanks! everyone for your time. Right now, I guess I'm drowning in confusion.
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Jules, I understand that it can be frustrating when you're trying to fix a machine and it just isn't working yet, despite your best efforts. Please understand that everyone in this thread is trying to help you, and that nobody is intentionally trying to get you to buy parts you don't need and spend money that you don't have to.
I don't think that Rick was implying that you should buy a MPU and Motherboard that were "married" together at someone's shop -- he was simply saying that the only way to be able to install a new MPU board and not get any errors at all would be to do that. I don't think he was suggesting you do that, either, just stating that it is normal to get some error codes when you first install a different MPU board into a machine.
When troubleshooting, especially from afar when we don't have the machine in front of us to see exactly what it is doing or not doing, we can only offer suggestions as to what the likely cause of the problem is, and ask lots of questions and require lots of detail from you. You're doing a good job keeping us updated as to what's happening with your machine -- just try to stay patient as we go back and forth until we can figure out exactly where the issue is.
Do you know if the white "self test" button located next to the power switch has ever worked for you? At this point, I would use your multimeter to try checking for continuity on the wires that lead from the switch, down the back of the machine, down to the motherboard to make sure that the motherboard is getting the signal that the switch is closed when you press on it.
Does anyone have a good picture of all of the wire harnesses plugged into a typical S+ motherboard? I think that's what Jules could use right now to see if all of the harnesses in the problem machine are plugged in, and plugged into the correct sockets in the motherboard.
For your reference, below is a picture of an IGT S+ 10 Mhz (typical) MPU (or "processor") board. This is the removable board in the metal tray with the black knob on it where your chips go.
I have also attached a picture of a S+ motherboard (sometimes referred to as a "backplane"). This is the fixed board in the bottom of your machine that typically is not removed. Additionally, while it's not impossible for your motherboard to be bad, it is unusual -- most typical issues are in the MPU board.
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Thanks! to any and to all for your help and suggestions. I do have a chart or a photo which does show where the different plugs fit in to the motherboard at the bottom of the machine which is very helpful.
My apologies as my frustrations were not meant to offend anyone.
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Jules, your mother board/ backplane is on the bottom of your machine. It is where the burnt plug was. I would try using your clear chip correctly this time in the SP socket. Put it back in the machine, turn on, and hopefully the test button will go ding and it will do the counting and clear. Then replace the clear with your SP. When you turn it on should be 61, fingers crossed test button will change to 61-1, close door and turn J/P key. Is your test button on the front of your on/off switch or the backside?
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I was not implying you should go out and get more parts. I was providing the reason why you are getting the 65 errors, and that the only way to avoid those errors when moving mpu's about, is to move the mainboard with it (or the eeprom chip, which is not always socketed). A 65 error is a common error, and should be easily cleared by pushing the button. That being said, if it is not working for you, I would suggest you get a meter and test the button, and then follow the button to the mainboard to make sure it is connected. Then test the button at the other end of the harness that goes into the mainboard. The S+ is a super machine, and things rarely go wrong with it. My machine is over 20 years old, and the only issue I've had with it has been a battery change. So don't despair, when you get it going, it will be a very reliable and enjoyable machine for you many years to come.
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Thanks! Rick,
I appreciate your input. Most likely I will go ahead and do a clear, but want to check that self test button first. My only hesitation is that the slot machine company that I bought the board from told me that they were going to do a clear and marry the cpu board to the dbv-200 on my machine. They then said they had tried it on their machines and it worked fine. I just don't want to mess anything else up so I will proceed with caution. I do have the clear and set chip to do this if necessary. Thanks! again
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What kind of voltage should I have when testing the self test connectors to the board?
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I don't think any voltage is present. Just making ground for continuity. I have asked about your switch a couple times. It is a tiny button on the same box as the on/off switch. I had one guy pushing the cherry switch instead of test button.
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My switch is a little metal button at the back of my on/off switch. Hopefully I am pushing the right one.
Thanks for the pic. I will check this white door button pictured out with my machine as someone may have removed that from mine.
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You may have the cherry switch, but probably not hooked to anything is normal. Just making sure you were pushing the right button. I was on the phone with a guy and he was pushing the button. I drove an hour to his house to find he was pushing the wrong button. That's why I asked. Don't worry so much about them marrying your board to the dbv200. that is the easy part. Go ahead and do a clear so the mother board will clear also. When your ready for settings I will walk you through them on the phone if you like.
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Looking at the previous picture, I noticed that my door is missing some things. The white door release button is missing. Is this the self testing button. My machine as you can see does not have this. I have been pusing a metal button on the back of the off/on switch. It is missing the door lock and the only the lift up metal door latch is there. The key reset is there with two wires attached. Hope this picture sheds some light on some things. I do not have the two wires leading in front of the reels to the second reel from the right. Here is the pic. I hope I am not missing something major.
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No the white "cherry" switch is not necessary. It was used in the Casinos. The one shown is the door optics. It sounds like you're pushing the correct button. Your machine is wired up just like mine. Don't worry about the white switch.
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When you push in on the test button on the back of the power switch do you feel or hear it click?
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You are looking at you cabinet side door optics there. Missing the cherry switch is not a problem. Casino's had that wired to let them know when the door was opened. Others use it to bypass door optics. You are pushing the right button since it is on the back of the on/off switch. I hate them on the back and love them in the front. Are you feeling cocky yet to do the clear? Have you traced the wires from your test button to the board? If for some reason the button is not hooked up to the board you will know with the clear. If you put the clear chip in the button should work. If not then it will not clear anything.
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See picture below for what we called the "reset" button.
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Ok..put clear chip in place of game chip correctly
Put board in, turned power on and 0 on winners paid display and 0 on coins played display. No count up or down
bottom candle light is flashing
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Did you hear a "ding" when you turned it on?
After you hear the ding you should press the reset button to start the clearing process.
do you have a copy of the ramclearing procedures?
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No ding when I turned it on. Yes I have a copy of the ram clearing procedure put out by igt.
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did you press reset button???
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Pressed the button on the back of the on off switch and nothing happened other that the 0 on the winnings display and 0 on the coins inserted. Bottom candle light as I stated before is flashing.
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The bottom light flashes because the door is open. That's just a signal.
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Took another look at the back of my reset button
the wire colors seem to match the colors of 2 disconnected wires at the top right corner of my mpu tray
Do these need to be attached? If not, where do the two wires green and yellow and gray lead to? Here are some pics of the wires.
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Another pic.
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If the wires are disconnected at the bottom, set your meter to ohms or if it has the tone setting (touch the two leads together and it beeps). With the power off. pull one off the button and see if the two ends "ring together". If both do I think you may have found your problem.
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Sounds good! I will check it out later this evening or tomorrow and report back. Thanks!
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Here's a picture of my wiring the same color running to the Molex connector. Although mine is just yellow not yellow with a gray stripe. If your colors match check it out. With the power off it won't hurt anything.
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Jules, you finally found it. Just plug those together. If the plug is bad you can splice them with solder and shrink tube. Now that damned little button will work and you might not have to do a clear. I think about 40 posts ago we suggested tracing those wires.
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Jules, you finally found it. Just plug those together. If the plug is bad you can splice them with solder and shrink tube. Now that damned little button will work and you might not have to do a clear. I think about 40 posts ago we suggested tracing those wires.
You did! :agreepost:
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I think it was 49 posts later. We can't all be fast learners. Late last night I got home and screw capped the wires together. I next started to do a clear and powered up the machine. Pressed the white button twice and was elated to see the numbers go up and down. Unfortunately the story does not end here. This morning I replaced the spring chip correctly and noticed the wire on the capacitor was broke. Called New Games in Bullhead City and he said it would not hurt anything to try it. When I replaced the board . When I turned it on I got the famous 61 only error. Pushed the self test button and got a 65- 1 error message. Ordered another cap. Will maybe try again tomorrow. Thanks!
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You're getting there. Sounds better all the time. :applause:
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Jules, the 65-1 error should clear by pushing the test button again. 65-1 BAD EEPROM DATA press self test switch for 1 second, 65-1 clears. From the IGT manual
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Agreed with Elvis -- you should be able to get past the 65-1 error, and that's a pretty typical one.
For reference again, here's a listing of common IGT S+ error codes, and the steps to take to resolve them:
http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/ (http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/)
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Pressed the self test button for 2 seconds, closed the door and the wheels s.pun and got an insert coin light which I did and the wheels started to spin. Only problem I can see is when the wheels spin the motor makes a humming sound and not a clicking noise when the wheels stop spinning. Not sure if I have any volume and not sure the payouts are correct, but I have only tried playing it just a few times.
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Reel stop sounds and reel spin sounds can be set up. Did you use your set chip to turn on the BV and set the denom.? Since you did a clear you will need to do these and other settings also. Here is a very easy to follow instructions for this. http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=514.0. (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=514.0.) Print it out. It is good to have with your notes. So very happy you got it.
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Can't thank you and the group enough----MANY THANKS!
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Still working on this never ending saga. Did a Set on my S+ today according to IGT instructions. After doing so I still have no reel sounds other than the humming of the reels turning. I have been able to insert a few coins, and watched the wheels spin. I am now getting the 3300 empty hopper signal. I have emptied it and shook the coins out and am still getting this constantly. I have 1200 coins in the machine so this should be plenty I would think. I have not tried the bill hopper yet. I am able to cash out my credits when I am able to get them on the machine. I am also having trouble keeping the insert coin light on. I am using an SP 709 game chip so the 1271 chip suggestion sheet does not seem to be helping.
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A 709? I thought all this time you had a 1271. Sorry. The 1271 is the most user friendly in my opinion. With that 709 you have to pull the MPU out. On the outside tray should be a diagram of the dipswitch settings. You can turn your sound on there. Or, because everything else was disconnected check the speaker on the bottom of the door. Easy access from the front drop door. I also guess you have turned the little blue wheel on top left of the MPU volume control.
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Still getting the 3300 error, and wrong payouts. Also, checked the dipswitch setting and the first 3 are on and the rest are off. Checked the volume wheel on the top of the cpu board and nothing changed. Tempted to do another clear and start over. I recall the person saying who I got it from that he had disconnected the speaker because he thought it was way too loud. I checked the front door and could see no loose wires, but it would help if I knew what I was looking for??
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Open the "belly" door, it flips down. The speaker is in the bottom left corner. There are two wires there check to make sure they are plugged in. I disconnect them when I play at night so I don't make noise.
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Not sure I can find a belly door and how do you go about flipping it down? Is there a release of some kind on the door?
Thanks again for your time.
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The belly door is where the bottom panel of glass is. Look for a little knob on the outside of the frame the glass sets in. Pull on the knob and pull the frame down and towards you, the belly door will hinge down (towards you).
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Got It! Opened the door, attached 2 wires and now I have sound. I still am having problems with the 3300 error message right when I turn the machine on. I can clear it by pressing the self test button, for a little bit and then it lights back up again. I have tried dumping my hopper and shaking any coins out 2 or 3 times with no luck. When I am able to make the reels spin maybe 1 time the hopper motor will run even though there is no matching symbols and occassionally credits will show up on the display.
Any way I have 1200 coins in my hopper so I know it is not low. Wondering if I need to do another reel clear or what to try and do in order to straighten this out and get rid of the 3300 error?
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Glad you got the sound fixed. May I suggest you start a new thread, addressing only the current issues at hand? This thread has grown very, very lengthy, and it is difficult to keep the issues straight and know what has been resolved and what hasn't. You will get more responses as well.
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The 3300 is fixed by opening and closing the door latch. Are you hearing the hopper spinning? If yes, you may need to adjust the knife or replace it. Did you try to cash out? Is that why you are at 3300? I agree start a new post for hopper problem.
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Got It! Opened the door, attached 2 wires and now I have sound. I still am having problems with the 3300 error message right when I turn the machine on. I can clear it by pressing the self test button, for a little bit and then it lights back up again. I have tried dumping my hopper and shaking any coins out 2 or 3 times with no luck. When I am able to make the reels spin maybe 1 time the hopper motor will run even though there is no matching symbols and occassionally credits will show up on the display.
Any way I have 1200 coins in my hopper so I know it is not low. Wondering if I need to do another reel clear or what to try and do in order to straighten this out and get rid of the 3300 error?
As you know 3300 means hopper low. It throws up this error when the hopper runs for a certain time without spitting out a coin. Make sure you have the right coin wheel, shelf wheel, the pinwheel is not worn out, and the knife is aligned property. What denomination coins are in your hopper? There is a self test option to have it pay out 10 coins so you can watch and see what is happening with the door open..
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To prevent duplicate replies, I'm locking this thread now. All replies for the 3300 error should please be addressed in the following thread:
S+ 3300 Headache (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=5744.0)