New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Universal Reel/Video Games => Topic started by: curtiplas on April 20, 2020, 06:23:06 AM
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Hello All,
I'm new here, I just picked up a Universal Fortune 500 from my parents and it's no longer working (not sure when the last time it was working was). The fluorescent lights come on and that's about it. All the connections seem to be solid, but I'm at a loss as to where to troubleshoot next. Thoughts? Any and all help is greatly appreciated!
pic of machine: https://bit.ly/3cyWDKg
-Thanks
Curtiplas
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So I did a bit more digging and as best I can tell the model # (aka universal eprom #) is IR-8557-5M; but that's about as far as I've gotten in terms of figuring out how to begin to even troubleshoot this machine. I created a new Google photos album with more pictures of the machine; hoping someone out there can help me.
https://bit.ly/351c5fC
-Thanks
Curtiplas
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Pictures speak a thousand words Curtiplas!
First, there is no model # for these machines so don't concern yourself with that.
What you have is a NARROW style Universal machine. Most folks have the standard style.
Yours has the Narrow Power Supply, that big green box just above the hopper with circuit breakers on it.
It also has the High Speed hopper as opposed to the Standard Hopper most have.
Both the power supply and hopper are made to fit in this narrow machine.
I ASSUME YOU UNDERSTAND BASIC ELECTRICITY AND CAN FOLLOW ALONG. IF NOT, HAVE SOMEONE QUALIFIED TO PERFORM THE FOLLOWING:
I would say a 90% chance your problem is the Noise Filter in that power supply. They fail all the time and are not needed (a Nevada Requirement for casino use).
You need to unplug the machine. Unplug all the connectors to that power supply. (Remove the hopper and get it out of the way) Then pull out the power supply. (Can't remember but I believe a few screws hold the power supply in)
Once you get that big green power supply box out you open it up, (more screws). Inside where the 110v power enters the machine you should see a little black box with the name TOKIN on it, that's the noise filter. Two wires in on one side and two out on the other (maybe another wire bundled in there but two inputs, two outputs) Snip one side in and same side out and join them.( I used buttend connectors) Then snip other side in and same side out and join those, basically bypassing the filter. You can remove the filter if you wish, two screws I believe, or just leave it there.
Put the whole thing back together and fire it up.
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Unfortunately this didn't fix my issue. Still the same problem, lights everywhere except the game displays. No sound from the speaker and occasionally the coin actuator goes off. Is there any way to test the power supply? Also going to upload a few more pics to the album.
-Curtiplas
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Unfortunately this didn't fix my issue. Still the same problem, lights everywhere except the game displays. No sound from the speaker and occasionally the coin actuator goes off. Is there any way to test the power supply? Also going to upload a few more pics to the album.
-Curtiplas
Dang it! That's usually the problem.
Look at that schematic of the power supply on page 98. Using a volt meter you should test the various 15 outputs. Note that 5vdc wires are pink. The MPU requires a clean 5vdc to operate, I would start there. The LED meter displays are 24vdc as is the sound. If MPU has bad 5vdc voltage nothing else will work.
If you don't have good 5vdc you should check that module I call a tophat that you see on top of the power supply. It has long pins that reach down to a board. I found one of these pins pulled loose on a Narrow Power Supply once and repaired it. It is part of the 5vdc regulated voltage. http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=9437.msg51161#msg51161 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=9437.msg51161#msg51161)
When you test the machine at startup there is a small round hole at the bottom-middle of the MPU case. In that hole is a small black reset button. Push that button and hold it in on startup for about three seconds. That will clear the RAM. Of course it only works if the MPU boots up.
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I'm looking at your pictures, that machine has been chopped up a bit in the past! I see the 110vac coming in the back spliced and what really bothers me is it looks like a 110vac cord is going into the MPU case?? Is that what I see? No way should a 110vac cord be entering the mpu case.
The only connectors coming out that hole on the mpu case should be a 3-pin connector (two wires used) and a six-pin connector. There are two other connectors available, one is for casino communication to the board, (can't remember the size, at least 8-pin) and a 3-pin progressive signal connector (blue, purple, black wires) These two not to be used for your machine.
I see a lot of wires coming out there??
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I'm assuming by MPU you mean the mainboard/motherboard for the system on the left? If that's the case no I believe that's just piece of 110v cord that was spliced on both ends. I'll try to get some better pictures tomorrow with the board removed and the hopper & Power supply removed.
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Plug in power to the power supply and check the dc voltages to ground pins listed on page 98. If that checks out ok then pull the MPU board and post pics of it. That insulated gray 110vac line that looks like it's going into the mpu board area, let me know where that is going.
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I'm assuming by MPU you mean the mainboard/motherboard for the system on the left? If that's the case no I believe that's just piece of 110v cord that was spliced on both ends. I'll try to get some better pictures tomorrow with the board removed and the hopper & Power supply removed.
I would get that wire out of there anyways. Use process of elimination, start with power supply outputs and verify voltages first. If ok, then MPU, yes I mean the motherboard in the green case, should be an 8116-A2 or A3.