New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S2000 and Vision Games => Topic started by: Brada on March 18, 2024, 03:42:33 PM
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Hello!
I picked up this S2000 in an unknown state. First wouldn’t power up at all. Found an issue with the power supply, will now power up. After getting it to power up got errors that all indicated bad battery on the board. Currently removing Varta battery and replacing dead coin battery with a cr2032 holder. Wondering what else I’m gonna be in for when I get the board fixed. I pulled the coin comparitor and it’s got an El Cortez dollar token in it. Looks to be similar dimensions to the Eisenhower dollars. Are there any tokens out there that are similar size? Can you still get Eisenhower dollars for a dollar or are they all collector coins now? What would it take to switch it over to modern dollar coins or even quarters? I’m assuming a different comparitor and hopper? Or would I be better off to make it Tito only? It has a ticket printer installed but no bill validator or cash box. Open to any suggestions! Thanks!
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See that round plastic thing with the "Slide" label over the El Cortez coin?
Push that black plastic to the side enough so you can remove the El Cortez coin out of the coin comparitor.
Then install an American dollar coin in there as your Sample Coin.
I'm going to guess you might need a different sized wheel shelf in the coin hopper.
Also maybe a smaller coin slot on the deck and maybe even a smaller coin-in optics guide that sandwiched in there?
The set-up that's in there now might be only for the large tokens....you'd have to change out a few things to make it work for the smaller quarters...maybe not.
Ayways, you'll know when the coin hopper has to pay out if it'll work with quarters or not.
Hey...are you missing the black & blue Universal Bill Acceptor (UBA) ?
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Yes, I am missing a bill acceptor as well as a cash box. There is a piece of plastic in the coin comparitor that will not let it slide down onto a smaller coin, maybe that can be removed? Not sure what programming will be needed to get the machine working, again wondering if I would be better off to program out the coin mech and use a Tito with a uba.
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That coin comparitor is for large coins only. If you want to run a quarter machine you'll need a different CC.
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I got my board back installed with a new cr2032 and Varta battery removed. When I power up I get RAM ERROR. From reading on here I need to turn reset key a few times then hold the button on the board.
After turning the key once it says “ GAME EPROM CRC MISMATCH
-0xB000001”
After turning twice it says “NON-RECOVERABLE DADA ERROR”
Third time “SOME CRITICAL DATA WILL BE LOST”
Fourth time is press test switch 2-3 seconds. After I do that it says “PLEASE CLOSE THE MAIN DOOR” and I cannot get that to go away. I’ve read about the Varta battery eating at the door closure traces, but this board looks perfect. What do I need to try next? Including a picture of the board.
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It DOES sound like your door optics are NOT seeing the door when closed right?
If the lamps are okay, the candle should be flashing as well?
You need to check the operation of the door optics.
The optic on the door is an emitter.
The optic on the cabinet side is a receiver.
They need to "see" each other to get that message to go away.
Try playing with the door latch wiggling up and down, to see if you can get them to line up and also watch to see if you can get the number in the [Coins Played] window to go out momentarily.
If you can do that, it will stay off for a couple of seconds, then come back on, and sometimes spin up the reels.
Sequentially, the bill acceptor entryway bezel light should light up - indicating that the bill validator is ready to accept bills.
What you don't see is at that same moment, the coin comparitor is also ready to accept coins - if your machine has the coin mech unit installed.
Another way to see if the door emitter is working, is by looking at it with a digital video camera - you may have one on your cellphone?
When viewing the door emitter with it, you should see a somewhat faint, flickering blue-ish light emitting from the diode.
To check the cabinet receiver optic requires a multimeter, checking for certain voltages.
Also, another way to check the door optics is to run the Processor Input Tests (Option: [4.1.3]).
It's somewhat a lot harder to do if you've never done it before.
If you really want to try it, we can tell you how.
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
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I’m not getting anything to light up on the red lcd screens, winner paid, credits, and credits played are all dark. The light behind the $1 also does not light up. I tried looking at the door emitter with my camera and see nothing. Is there a common denominator that provides power to all of these things in the door? I can grab my multimeter and check power if I know where to check. Thanks!
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Let's try to help you here ?
It sounds like you're missing power.
It's strange that you have power to the blue VFD display but not to that smaller rectangular display panel up above the printer?
History....have you ever seen that dsplay work before?
Is the harness plugged into it?
Also, use your multimeter set on continuity to check the denomination lampto see if it's burned out or not.
Unscrew the lamp socket from the display panel plastics and touch the two copper tabs inside the socket on each side of the T1-3/4 wedge bulb.
Slide out the coin hopper and place aside for now.
Set your multimeter for like 200vdc.
You need to see if three different voltages are reaching the backplane crcuit board the MPU slides into.
Put the red probe on three different pins into the power connector housing in the photo I've attached to this Reply below.
That power connector comes directly from the power supply, up behind the reel shelf, to the bottom right-hand side of the backplane board.
The black probe of your multimeter can be just touching the floor of the cabinet.
Let us know what voltages you get on the three pins.
Also, push the power supply unit on the back wall into the main connector pins better.
Sometimes during a move, that power supply tends to get loosened from the main connector on the right-hand side of it.
There's a tightening screw on the left sideof the power supply unit (PSU).
You may have to tighten it.
The best way to get at the PSU is to remove the reels from the reel shelf.
Finally, lets see the back of your door panel.
I wanna see if anything's missing or outta place.
Click on the photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
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I have not seen the display work, machine was purchased as a project knowing absolutely nothing about it. Trying to see if I can get to the bottom of it. Figured it’d be the best way to learn!
Harnesses are all plugged in. The denomination lamp did end up being burned out, checking voltage where the lamp plugs in I do have 13v.
Backplane connector, black 6.5v, red 13v, orange 25v. Power supply seems to be seated well, I removed and reinstalled, all pins look good. Attaching pictures of back side of door as well as behind belly door.
I got a couple boxes of spare parts, in them was another winner paid/credits circuit board. Tried plugging that one in and still nothing. Can’t guarantee that one works though either as I haven’t personally tried it. The top candle does start flashing as soon as the ram error happens, and goes off after the JP reset key is turned 4 times.
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After that you may be instructed, on the blue VFD display to press and hold in the test button for a few seconds, then close the door.
Your power connector on the backplane voltages are good...6.5V, 13V and 25V :cool_thumb_up:
Idk why your other display doesn't come on? ???
I'm nowhere near a machine right now.
I'd have to pull out a wiring schematics drawing for that display to tell you what voltages should be on that wiring harness. :sherlock:
I'd put a jumper wire in on the door optics for now, since you're not seeing any light come out of the door emitter.
Look below...>>>
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okay I found it.
There's 2 connectors.
One is a 12-pin, (2-row of six pins) Molex Senet connector.
The other is a much smaller 2-pin Molex Power connector....there's a difference but the smaller one is for the power to that 7-segment display board.
They both have a red wire that matches the ones you've checked on the backplane earlier (Red 13v and Orange 25v).
You may notice, there's a red wire on both of these plugs going into the back of the 7-segment display.
The red wire would be on pin-9 on the larger [J51] plug (On the drawing, the black square is pin-1).
The red wire would be on pin-1 on the smaller 2-pin [J2] plug (That pin on the drawing also has a black square depicting pin-1).
I'm going to guess the smaller Molex is just a red & green wired harness....check the red one across the black pin for 13volts.
Also, check that ribbon cable from the Power Distribution Unit box (PDU) to the backplane.
Sometimes it gets loose.
Here's a couple of drawings for you.
Click on drawings below to enlarge if needed...>>>
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Did a little more checking this morning. I noticed the belly door switch had been removed. I placed a jumper across the green wires. I did have 13v on both connectors of the display. Figured I’d try closing the door and see what happens. Immediately said checking memory, cycled through message and after that the red lcds started working. When power is cycled it boots up and does memory check. The reels spin off then I get the errors “CALL ATTENDANT” “DOOR OPEN M” and “Coin-In Jam”
We’re getting closer! 😊
Edit: after opening and closing the main door “door open m” has switched to “closure m”
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I was reading on the coin-in jam error and did a little diagnosing. I inspected all the wiring down to the I/O board and all looked good. Removed board and inspected all pins and all looks good. I am not getting any led lights on the I/O board. Are there pinouts somewhere to check the power supply and anything else with that? I have a newer looking I/O board model 14940201W in my box of spare parts, is this interchangeable? Connections look to be the same. Thanks, Brad
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I warn you...do NOT pull out or push in those I/O boards while the machine's power switch is ON.
In fact, I stress that's you will be much happier if you turn off the power anytime you remove or replace electronic parts....it saves you money...haha
There's a small capacitor chip on these small circuit boards that WILL explode, and render the I/O card dead.
My question now for you is...which I/O card are you talking about?
The one on the top of the door panel under the button deck for the deck buttons, or the one on the side of the MPU enclosure box?
Can you show a photo of it?
Also, we need to see a clearer photo of where the green Varta battery used to be.
The circuit traces nearby may be lacking continuity due to acidic corrosion long before the battery was removed.
There are folks on NLG that are experts at repairing these eaten circuit board traces that cause all these errors you're seeing on the display.
They know how to fix the traces and remove parts that are NOT needed for home use.
I outlined the area in yellow on your MPU we need a better photo of - to see the circuit traces.
Let me show you a blown I/O card...see the one on the left?
That yellow chip is supposed to be at the [C5] location...lol
Click on any photo below to enlarge if you wish.
I aways re-size at least one side of my photos via Windows Paint to 1000kb, to fit into Replies...>>>
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One of the first things I was told before I ever put hands on the machine was to always have power off before doing anything! 😊
I am speaking of the I/O board in the door, not the one on the side of the MPU. I am attaching a photo of it in my hand showing the C5 chip intact, in the picture it almost looks burned but that is a shadow from the legs of the molex connector. Also including a closer picture where the Varta battery was.
Question, I do not have a bill validator or cash box to install yet. Would those two pieces missing cause the coin-in jam error?
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I forgotten to mention that your "Door Closure M" is good.
It's only a informational message informing that the door was recently opened...it's not an "error" message.
Make sure no pins underneath that I/O card is touching each other or bent before you push it back in.
The I/O photo was a much better, higher resolution photograph than the trace photo?
I cannot make it any larger to see the traces better.
You may need to send the MPU in for repair, but I'm not sure yet.
Look at the sizes of the two photos you've posted up.
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Trying to post better picture. If this doesn’t work I’ll have to get a better one when I get home later.
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Very good.
Your MPU has badly damaged circuit traces under where the Varta battery once was located at, as far as I can see.
I would suggest for you to send it out to a member named Lookes.
You may email him at:
slots@lookelectronics.com
Send him your MPU photo, and the error messages you are seeing on the VFD display.
He may have more info for you at that point.
There's nothing more I can do from here, until he looks at your board.
Good luck!
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I've been following along with you post having the same issues with no winner paid, credits and total bet lights and not getting past the close door message after removing the Varta battery. I cleaned the area pretty good with contact cleaner but was still getting the message. I took the board back out and cleaned and scrubbed it better with contact cleaner. Then inspecting very close and not seeing anything suspicious. Put it back together and it fired right up with all the lights on and machine running like it should. I would say it's your board with bad tracers.
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I was thinking I need to pull the board and do some cleaning with contact cleaner. Did you just clean in the area of the Varta, top and bottom?
This board is a model 1952-2, I also have a spare 1952-0 in my box of parts. Are these interchangeable for testing purposes, and if so which chips would I have to move from the 1952-2 to get the machine to attempt to boot happily with the 1952-0?
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The problem with cleaning the MPU board it is that it's usually already too late.
Often, the battery acid is now under the protective covering, and eating the copper traces alive.
All you are doing is cleaning the surface.
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Yea I see a little bubble. Would I be able to open it up and clean it out? It looks like it is not into one of the lines yet. I need to pull the board back out to solder in a CR2032 battery holder anyway. I just have it rigged right now to be able to troubleshoot. I did use just contact cleaner around the area of the Varta battery both to top and bottom, but since I have to pull it back out Ill scrub it with vinegar also.
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You will need a multimeter to check for circuit trace continuity from one end to the other at various points on the MPU.
A "bubbled" trace means there is a chemical reaction going on UNDER the conformal coating - that's not favorable to your MPU's lifetime expectancy.
Many of these MPU's are hitting 20+ years old now?
If you look at this link, you can read that there are several different kinds as well...>>>
https://www.masterbond.com/industries/conformal-coatings? (https://www.masterbond.com/industries/conformal-coatings?)
In reality, the only way to save the board at this point in time is to remove all the damaged trace coating you can find, clean, and re-cover them.
As far as I know, only member Lookes is experienced with that...I'd contact him.
You're required to have the correct equipment to deal with tiny, microscopic circuit trace repairs.
Good luck!
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I had a 502 board in my box of spare parts. I swapped the game chips over from the 504 into the 502 and put it in the machine. After the ram error popped up and got that reset, machine acts exactly the same. Door closure MB and coin-in jam errors. Booted machine up with door I/O unplugged and machine comes up to same errors. With the door I/O plugged in there are no leds lit on the board. I’ve followed the wiring down to the backplane and checked all connections. Multimeter shows 13v and 25v on red and orange wires respectively. Leaning towards a bad I/O board. I’ve read there’s multiple different boards that look identical but are different.
How does one know what the proper I/O board is for this machine? Want to make sure a wrong one wasn’t installed in the past before I got machine. The one currently installed is a board pn 75427802. Ready to order a replacement to try but want to make sure this is the proper one?
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Swap the six chips marked in yellow onto your other MPU, one chip at a time, in the same direction (very important).
Make sure all the chip legs are fully inserted down into each socket hole, and none get folded underneath the chip's body.
Then swap the large multimedia audio sound board.
If your other MPU has the green Varta battery, remove it by cutting the legs about one 1/16" above the surface.
Do NOT scratch the circuit board with the sharp pliers.
You don't want the small circuit traces near the legs of the battery to get cut or ripped off the circuit board.
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Update
After swapping boards there was no change. Talked to Lookes and he is leaning towards a bad door I/O board. I was told earlier that my buttons should light up. I did find they had bad bulbs, but when I replaced a bulb it still did not light. Testing in the bulb socket of the play 2 credits button I am measuring 13 volts. Bulb continuity is good. Head scratcher. I put my multimeter leads on the bulb contacts, and as soon as I touch the bulb to the leads the voltage drops to 0. Could this be bad power supply? Seems as soon as the load of the light bulb hit the circuit the voltage dropped out. Seems crazy!
Where does the 13v for the switch bulbs come from? What boards does it travel through between the power supply and the buttons?
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You may need to check the bulbs in your button deck.
Ideally, there's only supposed to be one contact per side on a wedge bulb.
If you put in a wedge bulb that has the wire leads coming out on both sides of the bulb, esp. certain LEDs, they short out the socket and jam up the logic....essentially freezing up the system rendering the button deck dead, or worse.
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Getting so close!! Thank you for everyone’s help so far, Jim at Midwest Slots hooked me up with a different door I/O board and that took care of the coin in jam error. He also got me a cash can as I was missing one. After going through settings and re-enabling the bill validator everything appeared to be working! I put in a $100 bill and I had credits on the machine. Bet max a couple times and the reels spun and all was well. Tried hitting bet 1 twice and pulling handle and it went into a reel tilt. All the reels have a hum to them and just continue to spin slowly. Tried cycling power and after reboot they go into their noisy slow spin. Any ideas?
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Getting so close!! Thank you for everyone’s help so far, Jim at Midwest Slots hooked me up with a different door I/O board and that took care of the coin in jam error. He also got me a cash can as I was missing one. After going through settings and re-enabling the bill validator everything appeared to be working! I put in a $100 bill and I had credits on the machine. Bet max a couple times and the reels spun and all was well. Tried hitting bet 1 twice and pulling handle and it went into a reel tilt. All the reels have a hum to them and just continue to spin slowly. Tried cycling power and after reboot they go into their noisy slow spin. Any ideas?
After doing some reading I used the jackpot key to reset the reel tilt and it’s working again. I think I must have had the door latch not quite closed and it was a door optic issue.
I still have no sound though, so I will start researching that. If you e got any suggestions I’m open ears!
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Brad, I can't respond to you messages, empty your mail box.