New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Universal Reel/Video Games => Topic started by: luv2video on January 21, 2015, 02:40:23 PM
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Hello, I'm new here & to slot machine ownership, so please bare with me. I recently acquired a Universal "FIERY DOUBLES" Slot Machine that is not working. when I first opened the door & turned on the power, all the lights came on perfectly, but nothing else worked. So I did a little trouble shooting & found 2 fuses in the power supply(see pics) were burnt out. So I replaced them. I again turned the power on, there was a little quick movement in the coin shoot, & then nothing. I checked the fuses again & the same 2 were blown again.I looked through the machine & don't see any shorts & everything looks OK, so I thought I'd go online & ask the Pro's for help(that's you guys, lol)...Here's some pics to start with that I hope will help. I will take & post whatever pics you need to help diagnose this problem. Thank you for any & all the help & advice you can give!!!
Also, after reading through the posts that gave info about "Fiery Doubles" slot machines, I'm confused about a couple things. I read that all "Fiery Doubles" slot machines were "ULTRA" slot machines & that they all have it printed in the front glass... This machine does not. I also read that all "ULTRA" slot machine came with the slot to accept dollar bills... This machine does not. So is this slot machine an "ULTRA" or not???
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that's a typical Y-90 or something along those lines, not an ULTRA. unplug the large connector coming out of the front of the power supply, remove the reel assembly, unplug the three connectors in front of the reel mech. and undo the two screws, observe the position of the assembly, I usually mark the right hand side, unplug the connector coming out of the top on the side of the power supply, put some fuses in the power supply and turn on, if the fuses don't blow, then the power supply is good, if they blow then something inside the power supply is shot.
Hope this helps
Jim
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Yep, a standard UNI, made in the mid 1990's. The button deck is larger than earlier models. Do as Jim said, disconnect outputs from power supply and determine if problem is in power supply.
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Hi, Thank You for your response. I apologize for my slow response, I will get better!!! Ok, I did as you asked. I unplugged connector in front of power supply(pic 1), unplugged 3 Reel connectors & removed Reel Mech(pic 2 & 3), & unplugged connectors on side of power supply(pic 4). Then I turned the power on & again, they blew immediately... So, what should be my next step???
Again, Thank you very much for all your help!!! David...
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look at the last picture in your post, there are two connectors on the front of the power supply itself, the one is the power going in and the other the power going out. it is the power out connector you should unplug , and see what happens, if the fuses blow, then your power supply is bad. Shouldn't be too difficult to get it repaired, since it is blowing a particular set pertaining to a specific a/c voltage which will in turn produce a certain dc voltage. probably the diodes or the regulator for that voltage causing the problem.
would have to look at the schematics to be certain.
Jim
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Ok Jim, I did that &, again, they blew again... So that means the power supply is bad? What's my next step? Thanks again, David
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You have a faulty power supply. Not sure where problem is. Power supply needs to be opened up and examined. Do you plan on doing this yourself? Do you have a test meter? How familiar are you with electronics?
First thing I always check is the noise filter. Do not usually blow fuses but are usually the first thing to fail. Easy fix, just remove them, not really needed.
Look at this link; http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=177.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=177.0)
Third post down shows the noise filter.
I would check continuity between input and output with an Ohm meter looking for an open circuit and across the hot & nuetral looking for a short that would blow fuses.
Also look over interior for any burnt areas where power may have grounded.
Don't touch capacitor leads, they can bite!
Don't be concerned about Green, Red, or Yellow Dot mentioned in the link, your machine has Yellow Dot style and the machine is wired for it.
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ok, yes, i'm going to try to fix myself, yes, I have a meter, & yes i understand basic electronics. So hopefully we can figure this out... I have removed the noise filter prior to these posts, so that's not it. After my initial visual inspection, I found a blown 220 mfd capacitor. (see photo) I will replace it asap. Do you think that could be the problem? I don't see any other trouble spots so far.
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I know Uni's inside and out, but I have limited electronics experience. So maybe a more knowlegable member can help now.
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i changed that bad capacitor, but the fuses still blow... Where do I go or check next? Or maybe somebody has an extra power supply like mine & wants to sell it?
Plz let me know... Thanks...
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I'll have to dig out my schematics, but what I could remember, there are three individual power supplies in that unit, each of the different ac voltages supply a diode rectifier, some caps and a regulator and its support components. you should be able to determine which one is working and which one is not by measuring the voltages at the output. I think the pink wire was the +5vdc. I think the other two voltages were +12vdc and +24vdc, they all have the same basic components, I would suspect the diode rectifier or the regulator associated with the 9.5vac .
use the ohms feature on your meter and compare that diode regulator to the others.
Jim
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Thanks Jim, & I will check that. But first I want to show you something burnt that I just found. I think it is call a "bridge rectifier"(plz correct me if I'm wrong)?
Pic #1 is the insides of my power supply.
Pic #2 I've zoomed in on the rectifiers.
pic #3 shows one or the rectifiers that I found burnt & I've unscrewed it & pulled it forward to see better.
pic #4 my finger is on a green wire that has turned brown from overheating.
pic #5 are the numbers on the bottom of the rectifier.
Obviously I need to replace that rectifier...
Any ideas on where they sell these rectifiers?
Now, should I wait to do any more checks until after I replace that part or should I check the voltages you suggested in your prior post anyway? Or do something else all together?
I sure hope that this helps you to help me diagnose my problem(s)...
Thanks again, David
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the schematic I have is shows the 9.5vac feeds two bridge rectifiers, the two are associated with the 16vdc caps, one is 10000mics, the other 28000mics. a bridge has four diodes in it, the notch on the one side and its opposite corner are the ac input to the bridge the other corners are the output to the filter cap and ground. the 10000mic cap is the +12 volt output, the 28000 mic cap is the input to the regulator for the +5vdc. if you google bridge rectifier it should describe how the diodes work with a ac signal applied, these diodes only conduct current flow in one direction, therefore you can test each diode inside the bridge using an ohm meter, typically on the 1000K scale . lets set the bridge as a map, the notch would be north, the other points would be the other respective directions, now place the black lead on the north prong, the red lead on the east prong, check the reading on the meterthere is either a reading or no reading or a short(zero ohms), now put the lead on the west prong, observe readings, now reverse the leads, red on north and black on east and west and observe readings. now do the same only start on the south and do the east and west and observe readings. if any are zero ohms or very low resistance then that diode is shot. the number on the bottom is the part number, if you google it it should return a voltage rating and current rating for the device, then you could go to Mouser, Jameco electronics and do a search for that component on their web site. replace which ever bridge you find bad, that should solve your problem.
Jim
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Im parting out some universal slots , they were tournament games (no hoppers or coin in stuff, Have 7 of these most work but have broken glass, let me know if you need power supply
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YES BROKENTICKER, If it's the right one? I have the "Yellow Dot" power supply! How much are you asking for one???
TY, Brokenticker
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YES BROKENTICKER, If it's the right one? I have the "Yellow Dot" power supply! How much are you asking for one???
TY, Brokenticker
The tournament power supplies most likely are not Yellow Dot, but I wouldn't worry about it. Believe your machine can use any style, Green, Red, Yellow Dot.
Universal started with the Green Dot, then the Red Dot, both with same outputs. Then they came out with the Yellow Dot with pin outputs #6 and #12 at 24vac instead of 110vac that the Red and Green had. The 24vac was for electronic light starters instead of ballast. I've never seen the electronic starters in a machine??? Don't know when they used them.
So Universal changed the wiring harness on machines using the Yellow Dot by moving the 110vac ballast lights to pins #3 and #9 where the hopper is too. Then they increased the fuse by 1 amp. The tell tale sign that a machine is wired for a Yellow Dot is the grey and white wires outside of the black shrink wrap that goes to the door. If you follow the grey and white wires you will see it goes to pins #3 and #9. Notice the tournament machines do not have the exposed grey and white wires along the shrink wrap. That tells me they are not Yellow Dots and they couldn't use a Yellow dot. But your machine should use any style.
Your pins #6 and #12 should be connected to a small connector in the door not being used. (intended for electronic starters) Just make sure the connector does not short on anything as with the tournament power supplies the connector will be 110vac instead of 24vac.
Brokenticker, those tournament boards can be converted to game boards. They have four traces cut on the backside. You can solder jumpers to restore the board. Also, the sub-board at location 1A is usually missing. But these can be overcome by programing a 27c32 eprom and putting it there. Probably not much call for that anymore.
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I will check to see if yellow dot, and let you know
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Thanks again for all the help from everybody!!! I have ordered the bridge rectifiers to replace bad ones. Hopefully they will solve my problem with my PS.
Brokenticker... I'm still interested in your PS's just in case there is deeper problems with my PS. But even if my PS works, I might need some other parts from you. So, Plz let me know about your PS's & what you want for it(or them). Thank you!!!
Uni... I took some pics of the grey & white wire you described & followed them to where they plug into a box on the door. Is this where they are supposed to go? What does that box do exactly? Just want to make sure everything is plugged in where it should be before hooking up the PS...
Thanks again for all the help & patience...
David
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looked at power supply ? don't know if its a yellow dot or not , But will work $25.00 plus shipping , Im going to part out 3 of them , They work but have broken glass, pete
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Awesome, Brokenticker... Better yet, Aren't you in Calif? I'm just down here in Riverside!!! If so, maybe I can just pick it up & save a few on shipping? Those PS are quite heavy. Curious what shipping cost is...
I will keep u informed as to whether those bridge rectifiers work on my PS... BTW, what would you sell the whole machine eor, broken glass & all???
Thanks again...
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Ohhh, I may have spoke too soon. That "box" is new to me. Not what was normally seen. Your machine is a late model machine (mid 90's), the door's button deck tells me that. In most Uni's, older models, you see the two round light ballasts, like yours, and white connector with grey and white wires. Yours has one white connector and two little orange connectors. Have not seen those small orange connectors before. They may be 24vdc from the yellow dot power supply and you may be able to only use the yellow dot in that machine, I'm not sure now!
Can you take that green cover off and see where those two orange connectors go? In the older uni's there would be two 110vac starter coils behind that cover, not sure what your's has, maybe this machine is the type that has electronic 24vac starters??
Brokenticker, give the fuse sizes listed on the front of the power supply, the Yellow Dot has higher amp fuse sizes on at least two of them, I think it's 4amp instead of 3amp.
But using them for parts should work.
Jim
modified, only one white connector
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Here are two pic's, one older Uni ballasts and coil cover and your "newer" uni ballasts and cover. I put two white arrows pointing at unknown connectors. You should be able to unscrew that cover and see where those connectors go.
On the older Uni the white connector is on the side, upper right. Hard to see in this pic. There are no other connectors like yours has.
Jim
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You guys are AMAZING!!! I got my new bridge rectifiers yesterday & installed them. No more blown fuses!!!
Now, everything comes on & I get the "TILT" & the light on top blinking, the ERROR sound, & ERROR codes 13, 21, & 50... Where do I go from here???
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try pushing the yellow reset button, close and lock the machine. see if the coin insert lamp comes on, if it does then insert a coin and see what happens.
Jim
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Sorry UNIMAN for taking so long to respond. I just saw your post cuz I didn't know we went to a PAGE 2... lol.
Anyway, Here are some pics of what I think you wanted to see. I hope these pics help. If you need more pics of anything else, PLZ just ask. I owe you guys "BIG TIME" for all the help you've given me!!!
Pic #1 - Another pic of the box with the 2 orange connectors.
Pic #2 - This is what's under that green cover.
Pic #3 - Just a close-up of the(i think they are) transformers.
Pic #4 - This is what's on the other side of the plate that the transformers are screwed too.
Thanks again!
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Ok Jim, I tried that & nothing changed. I also tried putting a quarter in & it went straight thru to the coin tray. It seems that the Coin Comparitor is not working. Is the little red light in the coin comparitor supposed to be on or off? How can I test it to see if it works? What's the next step(s)?
Thanks again for all your help & patients...
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I would do a machine reset, remove the hopper, down at the bottom of the cage assembly where the board is located, there should be a hole , inside the hole is a small push button, with the power off, push and hold that button, then turn the power on, hold it for a few seconds, you should hear some noise coming from the speaker. now try and see if the machine will accept a coin.
If it does, great, if not, then open the door, pull the white cherry switch plunger out, and turn the key on the door lock to simulate the door being locked, this should show you the condition of the coin comp. what you just did was to tell the machine the door is closed and ready for play, except it is open and you could observe to see if the LED came on , on the cc. there should be red LEDS visible from the black or grey coin optics as well. depending the outcome of this test, will determine the next step.
If the above results were different, then you have to return the machine to the door open state, now you can use the push buttons on the meter assembly to put credits on the machine for test purposes, Red button, or get into the machine diagnostics, green button, ???? doing this from memory, the colors could be reversed ?? .
Lets see where we are at.
Jim
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Throwing my 2 cents worth in.
The error 50 is door was or is open. The error 13 is power interuption(you just started the machine). Both no big deal, do not cause a tilt. The third error is the problem error, #21. This says there is a coin jam. That means the optics have a problem, OR, maybe the machine needs just needs a reset as Jim suggested.
As Jim said, on there is a small reset button on the mpu board. You access it thru a small round hole in the mpu case that faces the hopper at bottom - middle of the case.
If reset does not clear error 21;
Error 21 is a coin jam error. It means the two grey optics below the comparitor have a problem. Could be one is bad, could be they are dirty.
Take a look at them with power on. Do either one have a red LED lit. If so, look in the optics path for a piece of paper, dirt, etc. LED lit means optic path is blocked.
Try this, remove comparitor, turn machine on, put something like a screwdriver down thru the optics. You should see a small red LED on the optic flash when the screwdriver crosses the optic path. The LED will stay lit as long as it is blocked. If you suspect one is bad, you should have a spare down below used for coins deflected to bowl in machine stand(used by casinos, not used at home) You can rob this optic to replace bad coin optic.
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Thanks for taking the time to post those pictures of the light ballast/transformer configuration. It's all 100VAC, not sure why the smaller connectors? And appears to be more incoming grey/white 100VAC wires than there used to be in older machines. :Scratch-Head: Need to take a look at my older Uni I have in storage and see what all the differences are.
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Ok, Jim & Uniman, I think I did all your suggestions(correctly) & here r the results. I removed the hopper & found the button on the mpu thru the hole(pic #1). With power off, I pushed the button, turned power on, held for a few seconds, & heard the noises from the spkr. Then closed the door & put a coin thru & nothing changed. It went straight thru like before.
Next I opened the door, [size=0px]pull the white cherry switch plunger out(I assume u mean the switch plunger(s) in pic #2, below & to the side of the reset switch), turned the key as to simulate door lock & observed. Nothing happened, including NO LEDs lit up.[/size]
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[/size][size=0px]Then return machine back to normal & pushed buttons on the meter assembly(pic #3), again, nothing happened. [/size] :Scratch-Head:
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[/size][size=0px]Then went on to check the grey optics below the CC. No LEDs on at this point(pic #4). Then removed the CC & used zip ties to check grey optics. All 3 are working fine(pic #5). [/size]
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:EmoticonHelp4: If I did all those things correctly, Plz tell what to check next... If not, Plz tell what I did wrong & I will re-test/check...
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You've very welcome Uniman. Just let me know if you want any more pics taken...
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Here are a couple things that I noticed & seemed weird to me. Maybe they will help find the problem.
First I notice at the connector that goes to power the CC goes from 3 wires down to 2 wires(pic #1, 2, &3). All the pics I've seen have 3 or more wire going in to power the CC...
Second I noticed on the back of the CC is a magnetic assembly with a diagonal arm(pic #4) that is supposed to open in order to let a quarter go into the machine. It does NOT open, causing the quarter to fall straight thru to the coin tray. Why isn't it opening?
I hope this helps...
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Ok, the info I need now is; what error codes do you have? The reset should have cleared the error 21. If your machine is still in TILT, nothing will work until tilt is cleared.
What I do is make sure the bulb in the INCERT COIN sign is a good one. Then close/lock door and the INCERT COIN should start flashing. Once incert coin is flashing you know the mpu board is ready and waiting. With no incert coin flash there are still problems.
The error 50 and 13 are more messages than errors. Although the 50 can be tricky because you don't know if door is seen closed and locked by the mpu. The incert coin lamp will tell you machine is ready.
Let me know what errors you have. I'm assuming error 21 is still there.
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Looking at your pics I see a suspected smoke stain. The second optic down looks suspicious. See pic. Even though it appears to be functioning it may still have a problem.
If your still getting error 21 I would swap that optic with the third one down.
I can't remember, but I believe that third, lowest optic, will not generate an error if disconnected.
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Your CC-16 wired is properly. It will not turn on if TILT errors present. With all tilt errors cleared, Jim's procedure with cherry switch pulled out and door lock optic satisfied will allow testing with door open.
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Ok, I still have the 13, 21, & 50 error codes showing, TILT still blinking, error sound coming from speaker, & light on top still blinking...
What you are seeing on that second optic is just a shadow from when I took the pic. Sorry about my amateur photography... lol
I've tried all the tests that you guys have told me, but nothing has changed. I will try them again just to make sure I did them correctly...
I checked the INCERT COIN bulb & it is good...
What else could it be???
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The optics send a high/low signal to the mpu. There are two so that the mpu can see a coin passing the first one and then the second one a millisecond later. If someone trys a coin on a string trick the mpu will see the rise of the coin and/or the timing off in the drop. If an optic is not sending either a high or low you will get error 21.
I would still try swaping optics. They unplug and have one screw holding them in place. Believe they should slide out to the left. Just pull the third one and plug it into the top two one at a time holding it in your hand, no need to mount it yet. Then each time press the yellow reset up by the cherry switch and see if error 21 clears. If the error clears you have found a bad optic. (the one you unplugged)If it does not clear, possible mpu board problem.
Hang in there, we'll get the bottom of this yet!!
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If, after trying the spare optic you still have error 21, here is another possibility; You had unplugged the door wiring harness, see pic. On my first Uni that I owned I unplugged the door harness and when I plugged it back in a couple of pins moved up and I believe a couple of pin sockets dropped.
Unplug it again and make sure all pins are level, none pushed up, and all sockets are up where they should be.
As I remember I was pulling my hair out with some sort of error, can't remember which, and making sure I had good pin contact fixed the problem. Worth a double check!
( that sure looked like a burn spot on the optic, but I saw the pic with the comparitor the optics looked clean)
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Ifffffff, after all of the above, you still have error 21, with machine powered off of course, pull the mpu board, unscrew the case cover and look at the dip switches on the small board at location 1A. There are eight OFF/ON dips. Tell me what they are set at.
Jim
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Ok Uniman, I switched all the grey optics around & nothing changed. Then I unplugged the door wiring harness & looked to be ok...
Then I pulled the MPU board out & here are the dip switch settings:
1 = OFF
2 = ON
3 = ON
4 = OFF
5 = OFF
6 = OFF
7 = ON
8 = OFF
Is this correct? What's my next step?
Thank you very much for not giving up & sticking with me on this machine!!!
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Alright, I'm out of town right now, will not be home until tomorrow night. I need to look at my manuals to see what the dip settings mean for your game. They are different for different game versions. But, that #7 being ON could be a problem. Some versions use #7 to determine what type of optic being used, ON for black optics, OFF for grey optics.
It won't hurt the machine to turn OFF that #7. Try it and you must perform a reset (button on mpu board pressed during startup) after changing any dip. Then see if error goes away.
Tomorrow night I'll look up the settings for that game.
The first three switches are for maximum credit limit, the #8 is for always credit or credit selectable, #4-#7 vary depending on game.
Jim
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UNIMAN, YOU ARE MY HERO!!! That was it. the #7 dip switch. It works now... Thank you sooo much!!! :thank_you:
And Thank you very much JIM & all the others that chipped in to help me!!!
I've always wanted a Real(working) Casino Slot Machine & now I have one... A Dream Come True!!!
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Now if i can continue to bug you guys with other questions about this machine so I can learn more about it...
Uni, in your last post you mentioned about the some of the dip switches controlling the max credit limit? Does that have to do with the fact that this machine only allows up to 3 quarters to be incerted? After that, the quarters fall straight thru to the coin tray. This makes the "Max Bet" button useless &/or no work...
Also, what exactly does all the other dip switches control or what do they do???
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UNIMAN, YOU ARE MY HERO!!! That was it. the #7 dip switch. It works now... Thank you sooo much!!! :thank_you:
And Thank you very much JIM & all the others that chipped in to help me!!!
I've always wanted a Real(working) Casino Slot Machine & now I have one... A Dream Come True!!!
:clap: :clap: :clap: :dancing_party: :wav: :clap: :clap: :clap:
You cannot add more credits to the machine by incerting more coins. Only by winning. Currently yours is set for a maximum of 1200 coins, after that all wins spit out the hopper. You can set it to a max of 2500 coins by setting dips 1, 2, 3, to ON. The others I have to look up when I get home. Believe #8 when ON gives you the choice to have wins go to credit or all wins payout by hopper. With #8 ON you need to press the cashout button before beginning play. It will light up and stay lit indicating credit mode. Press it again, light goes out, indicating hopper mode. The other dips determine type of hopper and optics, nothing special.
The four dips on the main board are for machines with progressive jackpots.
Send me a pm with an email address and I'll get a pdf Uni manual to you.
Jim
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I just want to say it was pleasure helping you!
You posted so many pics that were very helpful and you were patient. That makes it so much easier to help!
Have fun with your machine.
Jim
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Glad you got the machine working, enjoy it, when you get the manual you will see how you can use the red and green buttons to test a lot of features of your machine.
make sure you lube the ratchet and pawl assembly on the front of the handle,it could cause some problems and lock up the handle,
Good job.
Jim
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Awesome! Now I can make it so that all winnings go to credits & hopper spits out credits when I push the Pay Out button or I can make it so that hopper spits winnings out automatically... TY again!!!
Next question(s)...
First, how do I make the meters(pic #1) work, so I can keep track of how much I put in, how much the machine pays out, etc??? At the moment, none of them are working...
Second, What are the "Jackpot Reset" & "Meter Reading" key locks on the side of the machine for??? Are they necessary for anything important, cuz I do not have keys for them? Should I replace the lock mechanism so I have keys for them?
David...
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JIM, you were reading my mind... lol. I was just going to ask about how to loosen up the handle, cuz it's kinda hard to pull & it doesn't go all the way back up without pushing on it...
Thanks again for your help... I will lube it up!!!
David...
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hopefully Jim(UNIMAN) could direct you on the handle issue, I think there is a air piston involved,
Jim
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Help Again... Now, all of a sudden, the arm locks up when I pull it down. I didn't do anything to it, other than use it. why is it locking up now??? :EmoticonHelp4:
:thank_you:
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You broke it! I worked all that time to help you get it going and you broke it! :rotfl:
With door open, pull down on handle, you should see a square like rod on the inside hanging down. wiggle it while releasing the handle. Should go back up. Then hit the greased areas of the handle mech. with some WD40 to loosen up the gummed up grease.
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:24: That is sooo funny, Uni... Whenever something isn't working around here, I always tell my friend "YOU BROKE IT!"... lolol
Anyway, It seems to be working ok now... Again, Thank you!!!
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One more issue... When you win & the hopper pays out, 8 out of 10 times it pays out one too many quarters & the TILT comes on & I get a 31 code. So I have to open the machine to press the RESET button...
What causes that & is there any way to adjust it so it doesn't do that anymore??? :Scratch-Head: :EmoticonHelp4:
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Was this machine once a tournament machine??
Problem is same as your handle, gummed up. Need to take back cover off of hopper. Then you need to spray a little WD-40 on the rod going into the solenoid. It's the kicker coil and the kicker is not springing back fast enough, sticking in the solenoid.
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Back now. Was out of town. Thank you Uni for the manual. I really appreciate it!!!
I don't think it was a tournament machine. How do I know for sure?
Ok, need a little more help with the hopper. Not sure what back cover you are talking about??? (see pic 1 & 2)
So I'm not sure what parts need the WD-40... Or which part is the solenoid??? Everything seems to move freely...
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[/size]Thanks again, David
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:duh: My bad! Thought you had a standard hopper. You have an early model Holey Hopper. They came out in the 1990's. It uses an optic to count coins and I believe it brakes to stop the motor and wheel.
The reason I asked if it was a former tournament machine is that I have come across some tournament machines that came with hoppers, (some don't), the handles and hoppers never were used and the grease in the handle was hardened and the hopper mech's stiff. Not the case here.
There is a dip setting for the Holey Hopper on the sub-board located at location 1A on your mpu board. Look and see what positions 4,5,6,7, and 8 are set at. I'm guessing that #7 should be at ZERO. Believe that one is for the hopper, but not sure.
Post your dip settings from the sub-board and then press the green test button nine times and the win meter will display five different numbers, repeating. Post the five sets of numbers and that will tell me what game and system eproms you have. I can try and cross reference the system chip number to the dip settings.
A little more info; Universal used a couple of different types of hoppers. The standard hopper had a mechanical coin counter and a kicker operated by solenoid to prevent overpay. The high speed hopper used an optic and brake on motor. Yours is similar to the high speed. The dip settings told the mpu which hopper was in operation. Yours maybe set wrong or the hopper motor is not braking, one of the two.
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First off, TY UNI for explaining thing in detail! I really appreciate it! The more I can learn about my(& all) machine, the better.
I took several pics of my board in case it might be helpful. Also I've posted all the info you requested. Plz let me know if I missed anything...
Just a reminder that earlier in troubleshooting my machine, you told me that the #7 dip switch should be in the OFF position cuz it controlled which color optics my machine was using, Black or Grey... After switching it OFF, my machine started working!
Dip Switch Settings:
1 = ON
2 = ON
3 = ON
4 = OFF
5 = OFF
6 = OFF
7 = OFF
8 = ON
Win Meter Numbers:
1 = 98601
2 = 90076
3 = 98743
4 = 90919
5 = 92500
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Just a reminder that earlier in troubleshooting my machine, you told me that the #7 dip switch should be in the OFF position cuz it controlled which color optics my machine was using, Black or Grey... After switching it OFF, my machine started working!
Right! Looks like #6 should be ON. Turn #6 ON and perform a RAM reset at startup and I bet your hopper works fine.
Dip Switch Settings:
1 = ON determines credit limit
2 = ON determines credit limit
3 = ON determines credit limit All three ON is 2500 coin limit, highest you can get.
4 = OFF Credit Selectable, OFF you need to push cashout button before play to have wins go to credit, if ON always credit.
5 = OFF Not sure here, maybe handle optics OFF for grey, ON for black?
6 = OFF Standard Hopper must set to OFF, High Speed Hopper must set to ON. (Your Holey Hopper is closer in design to High Speed Hopper)
7 = OFF Obviously Coin Track Optics. OFF for grey, ON for black optics.
8 = ON Believe this; ON for Max Bet button starts a spin, OFF means after pressing Max Bet you must press Spin Button to start spin
Win Meter Numbers: The first number (9) is test number.
1 = 9 8601 System Chip Series #
2 = 9 0076 System Chip Version #
3 = 9 8743 Game Chip #
4 = 9 0919 Game Chip Version, determines theroretical payback %. In this case it is 93.170% payback. (That is over hundred thousands of spins)
5 = 9 2500 Set credit limit
Your game, Firey Doubles, was a newer game in the 90's but actually is a clone of Double Fortune, a game developed in the mid-80's. Same paytable, just flashier symbols.
I see you have a two eprom sound set. Does your machine have sound playing when the reels are spinning?
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Ok, I'm not sure what a "RAM" reset is. I changed the #6 dip switch to ON & put it back together & pushed the button thru the hole at the bottom of the MPU board, then turned on the power. (Is that a RAM reset?) But the TILT light & noise came on & couldn't play the machine. So I put it back to the way it was & the hopper still spits out 1 too many coins...
Did I do it right? Now what's next?
And, YES, my machine does have a sound playing when the reels are spinning... Is that a good thing?
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Yes, pushing the black button is a RAM reset. With the TILT light there should have been an error code to describe the TILT. Need to know the error code other than 50 and 13.
I would try it again, if you get the same results (record the error codes) than shutoff #6 and turn on #5, it is the last one that could be the hopper style.
Like I said earlier, your System Chip 8601-0076 is not listed for Dip Settings, so we gotta figure it out.
I asked the reel spin sound question because most 8601 System Chips do not support reel spin sound. Told someone recently their Double Fortune (with 8601) could not have reel spin sound. Looks like 8601-0076 is a newer version that has reel spin sound, so I was wrong! That's why I asked, had a hunch this version had it.
I'll try not to go on and on; Early Universals had one sound chip. The System Chip calls for sound routines and the early System Chips had no call for reel spin sound as it was not there on the single chip. Guessing somewhere around 1989 Universal expanded to two sound chips (several versions). Newer System Chips called for the extra sounds. Universal chips were assigned numbers by year of development. The 8601 would be a 1986 developed chip. But, later, enhanced versions of the 8601 could be developed years later. That's what I think the 8601-0076 is. System Chips have a group of games they work with, mainly based on the number virtual stops.
When you "clear the RAM" the machine starts like it's never was played. All records are erased and credits will be gone too. (physical analog meters don't change) On this startup the System Chip records the current Dip Switch settings and saves it in memory. The next time you shut it down and then restart it, the System Chip checks the RAM and if recorded settings are there it skips the initial startup routines and uses what is currently in memory. When you press the black button you are cutting off power to the RAM chip at startup and memory is gone(erased), then the System Chip goes thru the entire initial startup routines and records any new settings. The RAM chip requires constant power to keep it's memory, that's where the battery on the board comes in. It keeps power on to the RAM chip when machine is shutoff.
Anyways, your problem appears to be a wrong dip setting for type of hopper used.
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2 quick notes & I will do the dip switches tonight...
1st - The metal plaque on the outside of my machine(behind the pull handle) says it's a 1994 machine, if that helps any...
2nd - PLEASE... GO on & on!!! I wanna learn everything you can teach me about my machine & others...
Thanks Again, David
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A lot of times with Universals the pieces in the machine have come from different machines. Yours appears all original. The door button deck, the holey hopper, and the 8116-A3 board are all mid 90's. Earlier machines had the 8116-A2 board. Biggest visable difference between the A2 and A3 are the two red switches in the middle of the board. At this time I don't know what they are for. Think I have an A3 in storage, need to trace those switches.
Oh yeah, the Fiery Doubles is 1990's too.
1994 is the year the Ultra Series came out. Your lucky you don't have one of those! A real pain sometimes!
Let's get this thing 100% functional!
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Awesome!!! Just let me know what you need from me...
Another thing that might help you to know is that both on the front of the MPU case & on the hopper, there are little stickers that say 5 cents. So I think my machine might have been a nickel slot machine originally...
About the dip switches... I turned #6 back on & reset & got TILT with codes 31 & 50... Then turned #6 off & #5 on & reset & it went back to working like before & still spiting out 1 extra quarter most of the time...
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In order to convert a nickle hopper to a quarter hopper you need to switch out several parts including the wheel, spacers, and knife. Seems like a nickle hopper would not dispense quarters as they are larger. Hmmm. The wheel looks like a quarter wheel. :Scratch-Head:
Take off the black plastic cover off (circled in pic) and take a picture of what is behind it. Let's see what the knife looks like.
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Ok, here you go. Is this what you needed to see? & is it the little 25 cents at the bottom corner that you needed to check?
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Actually, that is the first Holey Hopper that I've seen with the demonination stamped on it! But it does say quarter, 25c.
Try this, look at my pic and see if you can slide a quarter past the roller and knife. In other words, is there enough space for a quarter to slide thru without the roller lifting?
I'm going, right now, to my storage unit and take a look at my Holey Hoppers.
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Got back from my storage unit. I have only newer one dollar and five dollar Holey Hoppers.
First thing I noticed is the spring on the roller looks like a weak replacement on your hopper. Make sure it springs back strong, should snap back after being lifted. See pics.
Second thing to check is the motor brake. Try rotating the wheel counterclockwise like it does when dispensing coins. You should not be able to turn it.
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Your motor brake is different than mine but this arrow in the pic points to it. When the motor is powered the brake releases, when power is off it should catch and stop the motor. You should not be able to turn the wheel counterclockwise by hand with power off.
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Looking back at your pics I see the brake release. It is the plate with the red arrow pointing at it. The two copper wires (white arrow) draw the release in when powered and it pulls the brake away from the motor shaft. Push the release in and the coin wheel should spin free, release it and wheel should lock up. The brake catches a small white plastic cam on the shaft.
I wouldn't stick my fingers in there when the hopper has power!
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Ok, I'm back. So lets figure this problem out!!!
1st, I tried sliding a quarter past the roller & knife. No, there was not enough room to slide it thru...
2nd, My spring is real strong & it snaps right back...
3rd, Cannot move it counterclockwise at all...
4th, The motor brake is released when powered ON & stops the motor when powered OFF...
5th, The 2 copper wires seem to work/do as they are supposed too.
It still spits out 1 extra quarter MOST of the time.
Where do I go next???
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Wow, a real stumper!
Works like this;
1. You press cashout for say, 10 coins in credit meter.
2. 8116-A3 MPU sends signal to hopper relay board activating relay sending 110v to hopper motor.
3. Hopper motor spins, coins dispensed.
4. Optics detect each coin sending signal to MPU.
5. MPU receives 10 counts from optics releases signal to hopper relay board, relay deactivates, motor stops.
We checked all physical reasons that could cause overpay. Let's look at electronic reasons.
The little green board in the hopper has a Hertz switch that has two choices, 50hz or 60hz. Make sure yours is set to 60hz. (If it was set to 50hz, this maybe your problem, not sure what 50hz setting would do, set it to 60hz and try it)
There is a switch on the back of the board, leave that one alone, it has to do with hopper overfill.
My hopper relay board for Ultra Series Uni's is part #1P950026. See if yours is the same part number.
If set at 60hz it still overpays then I would suspect the relay is just not releasing fast enough and you need a new hopper board. You will have a better chance to find another hopper than just the relay board, maybe the older green standard hopper.
You should be able to unplug connectors to the board and it unsnaps out for examination.
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This thread is marked TOPIC SOLVED
but I didn't see the resolution or what it took to fix the machine. :Scratch-Head:
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This thread is marked TOPIC SOLVED
but I didn't see the resolution or what it took to fix the machine. :Scratch-Head:
I marked this "Topic Solved" This Topic was answered in reply #22 and reply #41. Adding other questions
only adds to the confusion of non working machine making it hard to find answers in the future. I would
suggest a series of other questions needs to be under a new topic for future reference.