New Life Games LLC
eBay and other online auction sites news and info => Found on eBay, Craigslist, or other similar sites => Topic started by: therockinelvis on April 30, 2019, 04:52:54 PM
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If Tim (JJ) can't fix it who can? Very cool. Would like it in my gameroom working of course.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ESI-Rapid-Roulette-SLOT-MACHINE-needs-work-IGT-Bally-WMS-ect/254216052709?hash=item3b30751fe5:g:q3QAAOSw0gxcyGaR (https://www.ebay.com/itm/ESI-Rapid-Roulette-SLOT-MACHINE-needs-work-IGT-Bally-WMS-ect/254216052709?hash=item3b30751fe5:g:q3QAAOSw0gxcyGaR)
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I'm picturing in my mind players shaking the heck outta that machine....haha
Very cool! :cool_thumb_up:
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Nice machine, but what is it's major issue?
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I'm picturing in my mind players shaking the heck outta that machine....haha
Very cool! :cool_thumb_up:
it has a tilt switch like the pinball machines.
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it has a tilt switch like the pinball machines.
haha...I agree that there would be something like that in there.What's wrong with it?I'm may buy it just to screw around with.
I ended up buying it....lol
Got a new little project :rotfl:
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I'd buy it in a heartbeat if it wasn't like 3000 miles from me
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It is only an hour from me. I don't need any more projects right now.
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Someone got it! :congrats:
Anyone here?
If so keep us informed as JJ slots has a bad rep here.
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Haha Thanks!
I'm going to try and see if I can get it up and running.
Luckily I've worked with pinball machines before and judging by the photos I've seen and speaking to JJ, it may be a pretty cool project!
or I may have more gray hairs by the time I'm done with it? :rotfl:
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Are you coming to MD to pick it up?
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Yes...early next week!
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Okay...here's some photos...I have to try and repair this.I don't know how to start tho :Scratch-Head:
I only have 110 juices...how do I check the others?
Thanks for any help you guys can give me on this!!
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One more...I checked the 4 fuses with a multi-meter...they're all good!
I also re-heated a few loose solder joints.
All traces looked good from a visual inspection.
I will attempt to multi-meter anything anyone suggests.
The two nuts you see are going thru a pair of rectifiers to help keep them cooled.
I will definitely post a drawing of all the pin-outs later tonight.
Click on any photo to make larger if needed....thanks!...>>>
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Without a schematic I would apply power and check all xfmr pinouts to ground and see what you get. It's a good starting point
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You just picked it up today and you have it tore apart already. What was it? A 6 hour drive?
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I checked out the Ebay link. Very cool and unique looking machine.
I hope you get it up and running.
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You just picked it up today and you have it tore apart already. What was it? A 6 hour drive?
9 hrs there..GPS threw me off track...lost a half hour...stopped at JJ's for an hour and a half and got home in 8-1/2 hrs...long day...lol 1,072 miles round trip in 17-1/2 hrs driving....slept like a log when I got home...ZZZZzzzzz...lol
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okay...working on power supply...the transformer checks out excellent!
All the proper voltages coming out of it to the power board - this is where the problems begin....
The 20-pin header out to rest of machine is showing various voltages.
I changed out the two Fagor FB2502L rectifiers with a new pair.
Accidentally shorted out something between the NTE 102G negative voltage regulator (TO220 type package) and
the 11.5volt board solder connection from the transformer while checking for power on that wire :duh:
Saw a spark and had nothing coming out from the middle pins that go to the rest of the machine marked on PS box as 36v.
So I burned something out. Yay...
I'm guessing it's this one single voltage protection MOV varistor that is on the small circuit board?
Is that what this is below?
The size of this disc is roughly 8.4mm in circumference using a digital caliper.
You can see the markings fairly clearly? on the yellow encapsulation covering in the photo I've attached.
I now need to search for something comparable to use but I have no idea what value IC component I should try to get?
I can't tell any values from the markings really.
Here's a link to what I think it might be?...>>>
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/427/vdrs-101657.pdf (https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/427/vdrs-101657.pdf)
Click on photo to enlarge if needed...I've photo-shopped both sides of this thing to make a single photo...>>>
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ChannelManiac or ArmChair mechanic might know better but I thought Transistors had 3 legs ? Those look like ceramic capacitors to me.
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ChannelManiac or ArmChair mechanic might know better but I thought Transistors had 3 legs ? Those look like ceramic capacitors to me.
Hi Jay,
This component looks a lot like a 2-legged metal oxide varistor (MOV) zinc oxide disc in the Mouser link?
Same-ish color and design anyways... lol
I could be wrong...that's why I'm asking.
***edit***
Jay I found out what I shorted wasn't a transistor it was a voltage regulator in a TO220 package)
If anyone needs a good picture of the circuit board in the power supply box (both sides), let me know.
Thanks! :)
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The board location markings will sometimes help identifying what it is
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To that end, ther.istors are circuit protection, generally found at the lead end of a circuit. Ceramic capacitors are very resilient and rarely go bad. Both usually blow up when they do go bad. Not hard and fast rules, but good general information
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I don't know much about components but could This be the component pictured?
Resettable Fuses - PPTC 60v Max 40Amps Max Hold .65 Trip 1.30
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/MF-R065?qs=0hIDTYBnqOKLk%2FhTUnVpPQ%3D%3D (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/MF-R065?qs=0hIDTYBnqOKLk%2FhTUnVpPQ%3D%3D)
Says that it would reset after the fault is cleared but, I do see that the one in your attachment it does appear to have some burn marks?
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Thanks for the link off-track.
I had found another link I think from Newark and on its way.
There are 11 components on the board...I'm replacing them all one by one.
I will post a picture of the traces on both sides of this board to get a better understanding since I don't have any schematics for this.
The burn mark is from my junky soldering pen which has huge screws on both sides of the barrel to hold the tip in.
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It's kinda fun stripping this circuit board down.
This is what I've learned so far...>>>
There's 4 major power wires going to the circuit board, the rest are returns or grounds.
Purple (12V) to F3
White (50V) directly to Pin 1 (Not used)
Red (36V) to F2.
F2 to BR2 (36V power gets rectified)
Orange (11.5V) to F1.
F1 to BR1 (11.5V power gets rectified)
This is where I get confused and need to learn more about.
The two rectifiers each have a (-) but which leg does the DC come out of and towards where?
If I were to hook up just the one red (36V) wire, and the black wire (0V) to the board from the XFMR, would 36V come out of certain pins?
I'll try it...I wanna isolate just one power wire at a time to see which pins it ends up coming out of.Below is a photo of the two rectifiers I marked....>>>
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Doesn't a transformer drop the voltage...... Ie 120vac to 12,24,36 VDC etc then a Rectifier takes the AC and converts it to DC ?
So 2 pins in, 2 pins out ?
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Doesn't a transformer drop the voltage...... Ie 120vac to 12,24,36 VDC etc then a Rectifier takes the AC and converts it to DC ?
So 2 pins in, 2 pins out ?
yes...I just soldered in the one rectifier for the Red (36V) for example. (Photo below)
I get roughly 39 volts DC coming out of Pins 11,12,13,14,& 15...instead of 36 volts VAC.
I expected to have a slightly higher DC voltage coming out since it's not under any load, nor "smoothened" out with any capacitor.
I will leave that rectifier in for now, next step is to isolate the Red (36V) wire from the transformer and try the Orange (11.5) with the other rectifier (BR1) to see what voltage comes out of what pins.
The Orange (11.5V) is the only other wire coming from the transformer that goes to a rectifier.
Below is a photo I took of the results of what I'm getting out of the pins with just the Red (36VAC) going to the rectifier.
Of course, the Black (0V) is the return wire to the transformer - the green wire is just earth ground.
Temporarily, I've written the voltages below on a piece of masking tape.
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For AC you need 2 wires.
You would have 35v AC ACROSS the red and black.
This is known as Hot and Neutral.
You should also be able to use HOT and Ground but not recommended.
With AC you should be able to reverse your meter leads and measure 36v AC Red to Red Lead and Black to Black Lead OR Red to Black Lead and Black to Red Lead
The black wire is not 0 ... otherwise you would never be able to measure 36v AC.
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I agree with you but I was only stating what the label sticker said on top of the transformer.
You can see how they sort of paired up the wiring.
It's made by SKOT Transformers in the UK.
This model# is 26378 50/60Hz
I wasn't able to get any info on this XFMR or circuit board.
The # on the circuit board is: ESI PSU 0127C
I'm guessing they just made the transformers and ESI had some other company make the boards.
I got 12Vdc coming out of the pins 7 thru 15...
I noticed that the pins 11 thru 15 are connected via the other rectifier.
Earlier with only the BR2 rectifier, I was getting nothing on pins 7 thru 10 but getting 39Vdc along Pins 11 thru 15.
Depending on where I placed my multimeter probes, I get either 5Vdc or 12Vdc along Pins 7 thru 15.
I think once I get my new caps, voltage regulator and the Bournes resettable fuse/varistor soldered in, I should be good to go!
What I learned here by isolating board components and only using certain input power wires from the transformer is that the rectifiers ARE working and putting out DC voltages to various pins. :propeller:
Total rebuild didn't come up to more than $13....it's just the darn shipping that's costly! :hissyfit:
I posted a couple of pictures below.
Click on them to enlarger much clearer!...>>>