New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Electromechanical => Topic started by: Phan000 on March 29, 2022, 07:49:11 PM
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Working on an 873 that would not take coins or step up.
Upon inspection, a fuse was lodged in the bottom of the hopper.
This caused a pretty bad melt down in the coin counter coil. Looks like it came close to causing a fire.
First, what is the replacement coil?
Also, wouldn’t the fuse typically blow before this level of melting? Maybe they put in a high amp fuse?
It was blown, but I don’t look at the numbers.
(https://i.imgur.com/dWPJ2Ig.jpg)
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payout counter reset coil is C-28-1100
old part number was 28-R-15
that's the most common reset coil for all bally stepper units, including on EM pinball machines.
if you need to order a coil, remove the burnt one first and see if the plunger has a nylon collar on the end. If it does, that may have melted also. Part number is C-342 ... bally called it a "guide ring"
solenoid coils will get red hot when powered for too long. The paper wrapper burns and the insulating varnish on the wire melts/bubbles. The coil sleeve and spool also melt.
the current won't necessarily go high enough to blow the fuse and the coil wire itself may not fuse (burn open) ... the result may a fire. Lots of smoke happens first, but fires do rarely happen.
a wedged hopper wouldn't cause the reset coil to stick on tho. The reset coil is pulse by a reel mech B switch with yellow wire 30 and orange/black wire 78-1 on the blades. That switch would have to be stuck closed or you'd need a short to keep the coil powered.
the zero switch operated by the spiral cam on the front of the payout counter should also open when the unit is reset and disconnect the coil. If the wipers don't reset for some reason, the coil will stay on for the duration of the B switch being closed, but that shouldn't be long enough to cook the coil.
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I replaced the burnt coil, and some of the melted wires.
The coil stays powered and hums, so I only left it on briefly.
The coin counter coil stays on even without the reel mech or the upper stepper unit inserted, so thinking the issue is in the hopper itself.
The coin counter does pay out, but is runaway.
It will manually reset and does not seem bound up.
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if the reset coil on the payout counter is stuck on, the payout counter can't step up so you'd get runaway payout.
which 873 version is it?
if you don't see anything obvious and someone didn't put the wrong hopper in the game (wire colors match between hopper and cabinet plug), can you post a picture of the wiper side of the payout counter?
the only thing on the hopper itself is orange/black wire 78-1 on a plug pin going to the payout counter '0' switch, then from there a black/green black/white wire 85-1 goes to the coil.
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The stepper box says 873A
Here are some photos.
It appears that the wires from the plug to the hopper match.
I had to use yellow wires when repairing the damaged pair of orange wires leading to the coil. The discolored blackened wires seem ok, just have sludge on them
There are lots of electrical taped wires further upstream, on the door and a few other places.
The orange and black wire goes to the zero switch, but a black and white wire go to the coil.
(https://i.imgur.com/8ErYmjH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZO1FkeN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dIklHEE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SysHBQE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/A5pkAHD.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/pN2u6FK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XLY5ZHK.jpg)
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oops, 85-1 is black/white ... I'll fix that in the previous post.
none of the blades on the front zero switch stack are touching the metal, right?
you may need to disconnect the black/white wire from the zero switch and see if the problem goes away. The black/white wire only goes from the zero switch blade to the coil lug?
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I don’t see any metal touching on the 0
Switch stack, but will double check when I get home later.
Yes the 85/1 only goes from 0 switch to coil.
I disconnected it at the zero switch and the coil does not power.
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I coulda phrased the previous post a lot better.
looks like you have that wide blade on top of the switch stack and it's directly under the metal plate the two screws go thru, so the wide blade is connected to the unit frame.
the wide blade is in the parts manual diagram.
the blade with the black/white wire cannot touch the wide blade or you've got a problem.
simple solution may be to attach the black/white wire onto the bottom blade in the stack and put the orange/black one on top. If the orange/black touches the wide blade, it doesn't matter (probably).
you could also remove the wide blade, bend it up so the blade beneath doesn't touch it, or make sure the wide blade is insulated from the frame/screws.
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That did the trick. Kept the wires in place and shielded the wide blade.
I just don’t get how it ever worked properly set up like that? Maybe the zero switch got bent in at some point?
Seems like most of the other issues are minor and this machine will be in good shape.
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the only machine I have doesn't have the wide blade, so I don't know.
typically there would be at least a locking wafer between the two-hole bar the screws tighten down onto and any switch in the stack, and the tubes in the stack would extend up to the top of that wafer. That prevents any switch blade from being connected to the chassis, and it let them have preassembled stacks in parts bins that just needed to be screwed on without adding more blades.
there were exceptions occasionally where they wanted to use a metal frame/bracket as a conductor, but in those cases a harness wire (usually wire 30) is tied to the metal someplace. Since the entire case on the EM slots is earth ground, they can't do that on any major assembly that connects to all the metal plating.
you have other games you can look at ... or maybe someone else has one and can look.