New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT AVP (Including G20,G23) => Topic started by: Red_Devils on March 30, 2022, 04:15:11 PM
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I just received an IGT G23 but the glass on the upper monitor was broken during shipping, it looks like it was dropped :( I have no idea how to remove the bezel on the monitor so I can remove all the broken pieces. I'm a total noob here so please be gentle :)
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The frame looks to be bent, you are probably going to be better off replacing the entire top door assembly. The monitor is pulled from the front along with the black bezel. There are 2 screws on each side of the monitor, plus 4 screws on the back, 2 on each side. When you remove these screws, you should be able to push the monitor up through the frame. You first remove the monitor, then you can get at the hardware to remove the various door pieces, but if you are going to remove the whole door, there are screws to just remove the door hinge along with the door. I would do that and disassemble the monitor along with the door on top of a towel, so you don't accidentally drop the monitor. If memory serves me right, the glass assembly is not glued to the monitor on these machines. But it has been a while since I removed mine to do a through cleaning when I got it from my seller.
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:NLG_WELCOME:
Ouch! Just looking at that brings tears to my eyes!
To remove it you'll need to open the main door and above the bill validator you'll see two white switches and a silver knob on a black cable next to it. This is the release for the upper monitor. Pull on it and the monitor door should pop ajar. Yours may need some help since it looks like it's bent too. Once you get it ajar, swing it up and it should latch open at a 60 or so degree angle. Then disconnect all the cables connected to the monitor.
Sorry that happened. Hope you can get it fixed up again.
Edit. Rick beat me to it, so I just edited my post. Once you get it open follow Rick's directions above.
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Pictures.
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Thanks guys, the frame is indeed bent. I may do as you suggest and remove the door hinge so I can lay it on a towel to remove the broken glass. I need to do this as soon as I can as I don't want to try and power the machine on until I've removed all the broken glass. I have contacted the seller and notified him of the damage and he told me he will make it right and send me whatever parts I need, but I really need to make sure it powers on and nothing else got damaged internally, shipping machines these days is a total crap shoot :(
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Yeah, based on the way the bezel is bent, the machine tipped forward and the top landed on something that broke the glass and bent the front fame. After you remove the door, look a the cabinet to make sure the cabinet is not also warped. These cabinets are very modular, so the top box is it's own assembly. So at the very worst, you will need the entire top box, at the very least, you will need the whole door assembly with new monitor. It's possible the actual LCD might have survived the fall, but my money is that when you power it up, you will have multicolored vertical lines in some or all areas of the monitor, which is a sign of a damaged lcd matrix.
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Rick, unfortunately the glass is glued to the bezel which is why it's so difficult trying to get the broken pieces out :banghead: I have the cuts on my fingers to prove it :)
Thank you so much for the help, I will update after removing the door and cleaning everything up :thank_you:
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So I removed the bezel as you guys suggested. I cleaned out all the broken glass and then put everything back together. I powered it on for the first time and I'm not getting any video signal from either monitor :(
Inside the machine there are 2 connectors that aren't hooked up and I'm wondering if they should be connected to something. One of them actually says "To Display" but I can't for the life of me see where to connect it. Or with it being dropped it's broken something else. Here's a few pics, thanks guys for your help
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Is your MPU getting power? Can you post a picture of the front of it?
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Here you go... Thanks,
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The MPU is under all that. You have to open the bottom door (under the button deck) to access it. There's a release for the door right next to the bill validator. It's a black colored lever. Pull it towards the front of the machine and you should hear it release. Then you can remove the door and see the MPU.
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Sorry about that :), There are no lights on this box to see if it's getting power, but the fan at the back isn't spinning so I suspect it's not getting power.
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The little toggle switch at the bottom left of the picture is in the UP position, what does this switch do, should it be in the DOWN position?
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That's OK. It looks like everything is connected properly, but the cooling fan should be spinning. Try this. Unplug the machine, then reseat the 440W power supply. It's the rectangular box sitting above and to the right of the MPU on the shelf. Loosen the screw, slide it out and then back in. Tighten the screw back up, then reach around to the back side of the power supply and push the connector that the power supply plugs into towards the front of the machine. It's a "floating" connector and it doesn't always get fully seated into the power supply when it's re-installed. Then plug the machine back in, turn it on, and see what happens.
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It's a write protect switch for the NVRAM. It should normally be in the up position like it is.
Also that piece of paper in the switch is holding the MPU door switch so the machine thinks the MPU door is closed. There's supposed to be a cam on the door lock that both latches the door closed and closes that switch. Those seem to be missing on a lot of MPUs so they put a piece of paper in it instead. There will be times when you need to remove that piece of paper so the machine sees the door is open, but normally it needs to be closed (paper in place).
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Tilt I did that and there's no difference. When I pug in the machine this red light on the board is continually flashing, I don't know if that's anything. But the MPU fan is still not spinning so I assume it's not getting power.
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That I believe is part of the player tracking system that was left in the machine when it was removed from the casino.
Ok, well it was worth a shot. Do you have a multimeter to check the voltages going into the MPU?
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I do have a MM, do you have a pic of what is ground and what voltages there should be?
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The white molex connector on the front of the MPU has red/blk wires going into it. You can put the negative lead on the metal frame and check the three red wires for +12 VDC.
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That last picture with the blinking led on the back of the cabinet is for player tracking stuff, you don't need it for home use and can remove it from cabinet.
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I was getting +25v on the 3 red wires, but the fan on the side of the MPU is locked up, I tried to move the blades of the fan but they wouldn't move :(
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I was getting +25v on all 3 red wires, but I tried to turn the fan on the side but it's completely locked up I couldn't move it :(
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No airflow in these things is not good, it will definitely kill the mpu. When you power up, you should hear a "beep" within a few seconds. If you are not hearing that, then your mpu is most likely bad. Since the rest of the machine powers up, you don't have a short (which is good). Also keep your eye on the red LED that is next the white switch on the right hand side of the MPU (where the ribbon cable plugs in). After power up, the little light should blink once. If it doesn't, it means there's no power to the mpu. You may want to pull the mpu out, remove the top cover and have a look to make sure everything inside is plugged in.
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Rick, There's no beep and I've never seen the red light flash. It will try and pull it out to check the connections, but I fear the dropping of the machine by the shippers has more than likely damaged something. I need to get a hold of the seller to let him know that besides the outside damage the machine has more issues. :'(
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+25VDC? It should be +12VDC. Something isn't right there. Hopefully your meter, because if your power supply is putting out +25VDC on a +12VDC line you're going to have some problems for sure. Check it again with a different meter if you have one.
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+25VDC? It should be +12VDC. Something isn't right there. Hopefully your meter, because if your power supply is putting out +25VDC on a +12VDC line you're going to have some problems for sure. Check it again with a different meter if you have one.
That's totally my bad, I'm always picking the wrong voltage on my MM :ashamed:
I pulled the MPU and all connections are snug and tight, there is no power getting to the board, the small fan inside doesn't spin and I goofed on the large fan it is fine, it spins freely. I would suspect the power board in the MPU is bad, seeing as power is going in from the connector but nothing is reaching the board inside.
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That's OK, better that than having +25VDC on that line!
It sounds like you may have a bad ATX power supply, but it may be something else on the MPU board too. Sounds like you've checked for the obvious, so I agree, it's time to let the seller know you have other issues in addition to the physical damage.
BTW I was really surprised to see the top monitor appears to work, but there may be damage not visible until you have a full screen image on it.
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i would just like to thank you guys for all your help. I have written to the seller and I will update you all with any new information.
I was surprised also to see the screen saver moving around the top monitor and it doesn't seem to have any internal damage but, the are plenty of scratches and dings because of the broken glass. It definitely needs a new monitor along with probably a whole new top box assembly and now the MPU has issues. I think it's best if he can take it back and send me a new one. I knew I shouldn't have accepted the delivery when I heard the glass dropping when they delivered it, oh well we all make dumb mistakes, I was just excited to receive the game after a month of waiting for it :)
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Glad to help. Yeah, it probably would have been best to refuse the shipment, but live and learn as they say. Hopefully the seller will take care of it satisfactorily.
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So I have an update. I contacted the seller and he said he'll send me a new machine and to keep this one for parts. So I'm a tinkerer and while I'm waiting I thought I would try and figure this out.
I bought a new AUX power board but it doesn't look the same as the old one I took out, it was $100 so I thought why not. Anyway after swapping the board nothing changed, still the MPU failed to power up. I once again checked the 12VDC on the red wires and it was good. But it's still now pushing 12VDC to the board, I checked all 24 connections on the connector and I'm getting a couple of +5VDC but on the rails there is supposed to be +12VDC iss only showing .39VDC. So I connected an external ATX power supply to the box and the big fan on the side fires up but the CPU fan turns a little then stops, hmmmmm not good I think, I did hook up all the connectors to the game and the little red light flashes on the far right PCI card and it looks like it's getting power. But as I suspected after a couple of mins of it being powered on I hear a beeep, beeep from the board and of course the CPU is getting overheated because the fan isn't running. My question is in your guys's opinion do you think this mainboard is faulty and if the CPU overheated could that cause the machine to not send +12VDC power to it? I'm really scratching my head here because ever though the machine was dropped I can't see that causing issues with the mainboard.
Even connecting the machine to an external ATX power supply I still never saw a signal come to the monitors
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That's really generous of your seller! You'll have a bunch of good spare parts if you do have a problem with the other new one.
Which ATX board came out of your machine, the one on the left? I have a brand new one you're welcome to and see if it helps with your problem. The ATX power supply should have +5VDC, +12VDC, +3.3VDC, -12VDC, and a 5VDC standby. It appears yours is missing some of them.
I never paid any attention to the fan on the CPU so I took the top cover off and powered it up. The CPU fan comes on for a second or two, then turns back off. A couple of seconds later it comes back on again followed by a single beep, then the CPU starts the bootup process and displays' the Blue AVP screen on the upper and lower monitor. The beeps are part of the power on self test. How many beeps does yours make?
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The ATX power supply on the right is the one I took out of the machine. The one on the right is what I replaced it with.
Yeah, the CPU fan turns on for a second on power up but never comes back on again. it stays like that for about 2 minutes them makes a beep, pause beep, pause beep and doesn't stop, no signal to the monitors and the heat sink for the CPU is too hot to touch. Did you notice on the IGT PCI card that there are 4 green and 4 amber lights on it, is that how yours is? This is when it's powered by an external power supply.
The only places I've seen on the internet to replace the mainboard is you have to buy the whole brainbox and that costs $500 plus shipping and I don't know for sure if that's what the issue is :banghead:
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"The one on the right is what I replaced it with."
Sorry the one on the left is the replacement
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That doesn't sound real good. I wouldn't think the CPU should get that hot that fast. My PCI card has the same lights lit as yours does. Try reseating your RAM SIMMs if you haven't already, and pull the video card out and see if it will boot with it removed. The video ports on the motherboard will be active when the plug in card is removed.
Yes, some of the parts for these machines are pretty expensive. Hopefully you can get this CPU working.
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You may want to considering getting an ATX power supply tester. I got one like this. It doesn't load test it, but measures all the output voltages so you can see at a glance if something is missing or over/undervoltage.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q8SUYHW/ (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q8SUYHW/)
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Tilt, I actually do have one of those testers not as fancy but it is showing me an issue I don't understand.
I can probe the 3 red wires and get 12VDC going in to the ATX but attaching the tester I'm only getting 5VDC which explains why the board isn't powering up. The issue is it does it on both the original board and the board I just bought. The exact same thing on both boards, what am I missing?
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It appears your tester isn't turning on the AVP power supply. The only voltage it shows is the +5VDC Standby which is on all the time.
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Tilt, That's the issue, the tester just shows the voltage going through the 24 pin connector, the other end of the 24 pin is plugged in to the ATX power supply and like I've probed before the tester is confirming that the ATX power supply's only delivering 5v to the pins that go to the mainboard and yet there is 12v being sent to the board. if I plug in the external power supply (from an old computer) all the lights on the tester are on, if I plug it in to the main board the fan on the side turns on and the IGT PCI card gets power but the machine doesn't boot, I hear no beep like the BIOS is booting, it stays on for a couple of minutes until the CPU starts to overheat because the CPU fan isn't turning on, then it starts to continually beep. There's no DIP switches on the small ATX boards I can see that would stop the 12v power from going through to the 24 pin connector as far as I can see.
It looks like I have 2 main issues;
1. The small ATX board in the machine isn't delivering anything but 5v to the 24 pin connectors, I have tried 3 different boards and all do the same thing
2. Bypassing the small ATX board and using an old computer power supply powers the motherboard but fails to boot the machine and the CPU fan isn't starting to keep the CPU from overheating.
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Here's a pic showing 12VDC going in from the machine and nothing coming out at the 24 pins. It does the exact same thing on all 3 boards I have. :banghead:
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Your seller sounds like an honorable guy! Who was it?
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Your seller sounds like an honorable guy! Who was it?
James from In The New Age, Unfortunately he said it won't be ready to ship for another couple of weeks so that's why I'm trying to get this one working :)
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Keep after it! I bet you end up with two good machines before it’s over with. I enjoy tinkering with them more than playing them. Let me know if you want me to verify any voltages on my machine. I have the exact same MPU.
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I appreciate it, but I don't know what to make of when I connect the small ATX board and there's 12VDC coming in to the board from the machine but nothing coming out of the 24 pins, I'm thinking maybe the 440W power supply could be bad, right now I'm at a loss and I have nobody else to ask :(
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Check your ATX power supply tester for continuity between pin 16 (PS_ON) and pin 15. Without the PS_ON signal being tied to ground the power supply will not turn on and all you'll get is the +5V Standby voltage. This seems like a more likely cause than three AVP ATX PS boards being bad the same way. I attached a pinout and a couple of pictures. The AVP power supply does not use or generate a -12VDC output.
The AVP ATX power supply is really a DC-DC converter. It takes the 12VDC coming from the 440W PS and converts it to +12, +5, and +3.3VDC outputs.
Have you tried checking the voltages right at the MPU ATX power supply connector? Orange wires are +3.3, Red is +5, and yellow is +12.
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Well I have some progress! I bought a new CPU fan and installed it, now I got the machine to power on using the external power supply still no joy using the internal power supply. But I've now got a Red screen :(
Any help would be be greatly appreciated.
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That's great! I figured the CPU was fried. Turn the jackpot reset like the screen says and see what happens next. Do you have an Ekey 7 for it?
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I turned the key and nothing happens, all the way to the right and then back again? I do have an E7 USB but I have no clue what to do with it. I inserted it into the brainbox and nothing happened. Like do I have to reboot it with the key inserted? Where is the test switch located?
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Yes, to the right or towards the rear of the machine. It's a spring loaded switch and returns to the off position when you release it.
Is the ribbon cable connected between PCI card & the cabinet controller board? If you can get the error to clear you'll probably need the ekey to re-enable the games.
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Nothing happens when turning the key. I press the white button on the PCI card where the ribbon cable plugs in and nothing happens. I also unplugged and replugged in the ribbon cable from the brainbox and the backplane, error still doesn't go away, I swear I take one step forward and two back :(
If I'm right in thinking there's nothing I can do with the E7 key until this error goes away correct. Do you have any other ideas Tilt?
Thanks
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Sure seems that way doesn't it? Let me dig through some drawings tomorrow and see if I can come up with anything. Right now you're pretty much stuck until you can clear the error. Do you have a diag usb drive too?
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If turning the reset key doesn't clear the error, check the ribbon cable for damage and that it is connected firmly on both sides. If it still doesn't work, you may have an issue with the PCI card where the grey ribbon cable plugs in, this is the card responsible for reading the door switches from the backplane to the mpu.
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Here's the wiring diagram from the switch to the cabinet controller. Check the switch for continuity and at J5 too.
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Tilt, I made a little more progress last night. The reason why I couldn't clear the error was because the backplane board wasn't fully seated in the socket. I pushed it in and rebooted then I was able to push the white reset button and see all the logs, I then turned the jackpot key and cleared the error. Now when it boots up to the game I'm unable to play. I think it's because there are credits on the game which I have no idea how to clear. Also There are 2 open door notifications at the top right of the screen (T and F) I don't know what these are for. I do have an Ekey and Diag key, but I'm not even sure if the diag key is working because when it's in the machine I don't see any difference in the menu options on the screen, but I can't make any changes with credits on the machine. I have tried hitting cash out and nothing happens. It seems the lower screen is locked and I can't change volume, cash out, add credits or anything. I think I'm so close to getting this game working. I have noticed that when the machine is started the bottom light on the candle is flashing. Thanks for sticking with me through this Tilt.
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T is top box
F is belly door
Diag key must be inserted along with the ekey7 before you turn machine on.
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Is Top Box the upper monitor? Also will these door open notifications stop the machine from playing or doing anything? The Belly door isn't surprising because I have it powering from an external ATX power supply. Thanks for helping out a total novice :)
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Yes top box is top monitor, all doors must be in closed state for game to play. You can pull the door cherry switches out to simulate a closed door state.
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Nice work Red, you're almost there! :applause:
Yes, the open door errors will prevent the game from operating. Here's pictures of the switch locations. They have a maintenance feature, pull out on the white plunger and it will close the circuit for the door so you can operate with it open. The topbox may not be closing correctly from the damage?
I was expecting to see "No game enabled" after you got by the red screen error, glad that you didn't have to go through the re-enabling process.
Edit: Mark beat me to it. Post for the pics anyhow.
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You can pull the door cherry switches out to simulate a closed door state.
Cool! I just learned something new!
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The machine has been playing just fine now. The top box open notification is a little finicky due to the damage but it's ok. I just wanted to put here that if someone else has issues with a G23 and it turns out to be the CPU fan, then for some reason that will cut the power from the small ATX board. After I replaced the CPU fan everything started working again. I have put the machine back together and it's now working normally, well almost..... Now I have to wait for a battery to be delivered the Tell tale battery needs to be replaced :)
I just want to give a big thank you to everyone for all the help and advice, you guys have been awesome! :hail:
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Leave machine turned on and that battery pack might charge enough to let you play.