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**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Electromechanical => Topic started by: Phan000 on April 05, 2022, 07:37:05 PM
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Working one a different 873 A I picked up. A little roughy, but is cleaning up pretty decently. Initially thought it would be good to test the suspect hopper on that other machine.
I cleaned the reel mech pretty well, and got it spinning and stopping out of the cabinet perfectly…
However, it bottoms out when installed. I moved the bottom rear stop plate to every possible position, and the arm still bottoms out.
I vaguely remember this issue before, but also remember I caused a lot of headaches over-adjusting the main spring. Would the spring and the two locking nuts be the next logical
Step?
(https://i.imgur.com/kw4RHMh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xuXWuaU.jpg)
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That stop bracket is used to adjust the kickoff of the reels. They are usually set with the back edge close to flush with the back of the reel mech. From that position if adjustment is needed it needs to be in very small increments to walk in adjustment, no more than 1/16” at a time. Once adjusted, those 2 screws hold it in place and then a nut on each is tightened on the inside. Putting it at its opposite extremes will cause other problems. However, If I’m understanding your problem correctly, the handle problem is elsewhere. First, can you clarify what you mean by “bottoming out”?
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The handle gets stuck before kicking off the reel spin.
Stuck at the bottom of the arc
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Hi Phan000, Please reference wolftalks information below
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Does the handle cycle with the reel mech removed from the machine?
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Thanks bill, I’ll have a look at those specs.
Yes reel mech cycles perfectly outside of machine.
Handle functions correctly without reel mech and disengages with rear latch pressed.
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So according to that manual, it seems like the drive shaft is a bit short.
Start with a 1/2 turn (clockwise) of both nuts to lengthen?
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Phan000, can you share a picture of the complete right side of the reel mech?
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Put the stop bracket back to it’s original spot. Also tried a few turns in both directions on the shaft. No luck so far.
Marked original location on both, so can put it back as needed.
(https://i.imgur.com/LLsmyIy.jpg)
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Hi Phan000, Please reference wolftalks information below
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Phan000, can you verify the length of the driveshaft? It’s labeled “F” in the above diagram. It should be about 9-9/64”. Keep in mind that those dimensions are a starting point and may vary slightly between machines. Be sure to leave the 1/16” of play in front of the inside nut. In your picture the driveshaft appears adjusted out a little long, but I can’t say for sure.
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the outer/right nut more-or-less adjusts the position of the gear peg that slides into the handle fork. If you tighten that nut to move it to the left, the peg should drop ... which lowers it in the fork and that's more handle movement needed before the peg gear starts rotating.
the inner nut should have around 1/16" of free play when pulling the handle before it starts pushing the trip lever pawl (the silver piece the threaded rod goes thru) back. The closer that nut is to the lever, the faster the handle pull starts moving the black trip lever (closes the gap between the latch pawl and trip lever and starts rotating the trip lever.
if you move the L-shaped stop bracket back as far as it will go and the handle still sticks down, you likely have a problem elsewhere. Is the handle fork tight?
also make sure the roll pins aren't worn and allowing the pieces they peg together to move independently.
as other have said, the right edge of the stop bracket is usually aligned with the frame edge or slightly left of it.
the liberty bell book is mostly just a copy of the bally manuals which are freely available for download. The bally 2600 manual probably has the clearest and simplest explanation of the adjustment. There's lot of measurements and angles on the diagram that have no practical use as it boils down to:
1] adjust the outer nut for the peg height. You can use the 1-11/16 distance or just make sure the peg centers in the handle fork.
2] adjust the inner nut for the 1/16 clearance.
3] adjust the stop bracket so the kick happens near the bottom of the handle pull.
4] if the game has one, make sure the dashpot switch is closed when the mech is at rest. Your game has a dashpot switch.
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I moved the L stop bracket as far to the right as it would go. Handle still gets stuck.
There is a small amount of play in the fork, as seen here. Not sure it’s enough to cause a big issue.
https://youtube.com/shorts/ULoCYRgKWl8?feature=share
I tried many small changes in the shaft/nuts but had no luck.
Thinking the handle assembly itself may be the issue?
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see what the other guys say, but on my 929 I can't move the fork at all ... so I'd say you have a lot of slop in there.
can't tell in the vid if the fork only is moving or the shaft/bolt is moving also.
the shaft and fork have flats, so they should be pretty tightly connected.
if you remove the bolt to check the fork/shaft and the bolt doesn't want to break free, don't use something like a breaker bar as the bolt can shear off. Better to use an impact wrench to get it loose.
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Phann000,
wolftalk is correct. That fork should not have play. It doesn't appear that the bolt is moving, just the fork. Below is a photo of what one should look like. I think you will find that yours is worn or, the shaft is.
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I dug out a replacement fork and swapped them.
Works great.
Thanks for the help!