Author Topic: Coin Optics and Hopper Optic All Read Zero (Read 23306 times)

63mini · « **Reply #20 on:** April 20, 2018, 08:39:21 PM »

OK, that looks fine. Also, take a look at the area circled below. Something looks strange there but, it could be the lighting. I had a connector once that had one of those pins bent inside.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #21 on:** April 20, 2018, 08:40:40 PM »

Is the coin comparitor on your benchtop (see photo below) a different one from the one shown in your first post of this thread? If you ordered 2 of them have you tried each one? Maybe I missed this if you already told us about it.

Also, the one installed in the door doesn't have a model label, are we sure it is a CC-16D?

Trooper11040 · « **Reply #22 on:** April 20, 2018, 08:47:14 PM »

ok so i have 2...one is a 16D and the other is non labeled but has 2 grey wires...the 16D has 2 green wires (on the left molex)

Trooper11040 · « **Reply #23 on:** April 20, 2018, 08:49:04 PM »

Quote from: rokgpsman on April 20, 2018, 08:09:10 PM

I don't know what those loose wires are for but I'd wrap their ends individually in black electricians tape for now, just to keep them from touching the bare metal chassis ground. That's the safe thing to do. All 3 of those loose wires look like they have a connector contact crimped to it, like it was removed from a connector. It's not unusual to find unused wires in a machine, sometimes they are there for optional casino equipment, like a progressive jackpot or security equip or player's card tracking equip. But these don't look like that to me.

Do the red and black pair of wires reach to the hopper connector area?

the first time i opened the machine when i got it, the red/black wires were under the MPU board close to the hopper...they are attached to one of the connectors on the motherboard..the closet molex to the front of the cabinet

rokgpsman · « **Reply #24 on:** April 20, 2018, 08:49:48 PM »

Quote from: Trooper11040 on April 20, 2018, 08:47:14 PM

ok so i have 2...one is a 16D and the other is non labeled but has 2 grey wires...the 16D has 2 green wires (on the left molex)

and you tried both coin comparitors and got the same result?

Trooper11040 · « **Reply #25 on:** April 20, 2018, 08:51:40 PM »

the one in there worked when i was in self test and turned the jackpot key on one of the settings...it lit the light green...the 16D didnt do anything

Trooper11040 · « **Reply #26 on:** April 20, 2018, 08:53:54 PM »

looks like in the one photo, there is something white covering that hole...i zoomed in on my phone...let me go and check quick

Trooper11040 · « **Reply #27 on:** April 20, 2018, 09:09:23 PM »

ended up being nothing....just fuzz or something

rokgpsman · « **Reply #28 on:** April 20, 2018, 09:38:50 PM »

I'm thinking that on a PE+ the Coin Detector A B C inputs should all 3 be showing a 1 with the machine just sitting there, then they change to a 0 if a coin or popsicle stick or whatever blocks the coin optic sensors. If that's the way it should be then yours is wrong, that's a clue to the problem.

Let's see what others say about this, but I think it should look like the second photo below (top photo is your machine):

rokgpsman · « **Reply #29 on:** April 20, 2018, 09:56:24 PM »

read thru these old NLG threads about a PE+ that has the error "Call Attendant Coin-In Timeout". Notice it says the ABC inputs on the test screen should be showing a "1" at idle, then change to a "0" when you insert something in between the optic boards to block the light sensors. Did you get the coin optics boards that are tested ok? And did you get them connected to cabling ok?

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=6822.0;wap

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=18702.0

Badbaud · « **Reply #30 on:** April 20, 2018, 11:06:21 PM »

Have you tried passing a black piece of paper down through the coin optics and see if they change from 0's to 1's?
ON would be when the optic transmitter's beam is hitting the receiver, a photo transistor that turns on when the transmitter's beam is hitting it.
When a NPN photo transistor transistor turns on it brings the output signal closer to ground, in digital speak a zero = on or beam not blocked, when the beam is blocked it produces a one, 1 = off or beam blocked.

Trooper11040 · « **Reply #31 on:** April 21, 2018, 05:09:58 AM »

Iâ€™ll check it out...even the little button on the optics board doesnâ€™t work. (Both of them that I own)

Trooper11040 · « **Reply #32 on:** April 21, 2018, 05:37:50 AM »

Unfortunately still nothing. They donâ€™t change no matter what. I also try to run the hopper test and it stops once the wheel starts moving and stops. Whatever is providing signal to the optics is shot. Iâ€™ve tried two optics boards and two hopper optics so far

Badbaud · « **Reply #33 on:** April 21, 2018, 06:27:37 AM »

You have 3 fuses, one is 24V, another is 120V, the other is the low voltage fuse. That fuse provides the voltage that generates power for the optics.
Make sure it is good.

Trooper11040 · « **Reply #34 on:** April 21, 2018, 06:29:30 AM »

Do we know which one is which? I have three in the back of the machine near the power switch...They are lined up top, middle and bottom

Badbaud · « **Reply #35 on:** April 21, 2018, 06:49:26 AM »

If they are not marked check all 3 with a meter.

Trooper11040 · « **Reply #36 on:** April 21, 2018, 06:54:15 AM »

All 3 have continuity...so itâ€™s not that unfortunately

Trooper11040 · « **Reply #37 on:** April 21, 2018, 07:48:33 AM »

Does the coin comparator harness provide any power to the coin optic?

Badbaud · « **Reply #38 on:** April 21, 2018, 11:00:08 AM »

No, the comparator fires off a pulse to the A optic B and C fire when a coin passes through.

Trooper11040 · « **Reply #39 on:** April 21, 2018, 11:33:21 AM »

Still have no signal at all. The coin diverter works, I can get the green light to light if I turn the jackpot key to coin lockout...so that harness obviously works. Iâ€™m wondering if I habe the wrong harness/coin comparator

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Author Topic: Coin Optics and Hopper Optic All Read Zero (Read 23306 times)