New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Electromechanical => Topic started by: Akriegs on December 22, 2020, 11:58:55 AM
-
Picked up a Bally's Jillion auction. Handle is stuck i tried to lift up the little spindle(as circled in the photo) like i have done in the past but this one does not give. Any suggestions?
Any idea what model and year?
-
see if this works:
bingo.cdyn.com/slots/videos/Handle_Release.m4v (http://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/videos/Handle_Release.m4v)
-
The issue is the wheels are still in the machine so it’s not like just clicking the lever as in the video. I can’t reach that lever with the wheels and all other wires.
-
the vid was just to show the piece that normally releases the handle. I use a long screwdriver.
if you can't get an angle that works, the alternative is tripping the latch pawl yourself ... again with a long screwdriver, dowel, or whatever. It's 'O' in the below diagram, push on the bottom of it to pivot it off the trip level N and cause the reels to kick ... then see if you can pry up the piece you normally do to release the handle.
-
If you search this topic on this board there’s some previous discussions on the stuck handle.
-
I was able to get the handle unlatched. I took the reels out and i cleaned the plunger tube and greased. I pull the handle(very hard to pull) and the wheels do not spin. Its like the whole wheel mechanism is locked up. suggestion on how free up the mechanism? it takes the quarters but does not accept credit. The handle does not pull after quarter dropped to bottom. It misses the hopper and goes to the overflow hole that drops out the bottom. I would like to tear the entire wheel mechanism and clean all the long rods and parts. Any manuals or direction you can point me in to degrease and then grease?
Any idea the model of the machine? The tag is missing lower right of machine.
-
Most likely the reels mechanism needs a good cleaning.
But first eliminate the handle as the problem. Do this by operating the handle with the reels out of the machine.
If the handle pulls easy the the reels would most likely need cleaning.
All shafts, bushings and levers should move freely.
Best to start with the mechanism propped up on the handle side about 1-2 inches.
Run cleaning/ penetrating oil on all surfaces and in between all moving parts.
Use cardboard to absorbed excess oil.
Repeat the process 3 to 4 times throughout the day, then let it sit over night.
Wipe up all excess oil, then re-lubricate with a lite oil like 3 in 1.
-
Regarding the coin drop, sounds like the coin diverter is on and or stuck in the divert position.
Post a photo a complete door interior and a photo of the lower left quarter.
-
it looks like a model 831.
there are numbers/codes stamped into the slotted index discs next to each reel ... what do they say?
there's an M-645-xxx number on the payout counter disc ...what is it?
anything written on the units with black marker or anything on the reel wiper boards?
-
1st the handle pulls very easy without wheels in the machine. The handle does not return to normal position after i pull handle. Is this normal?
2nd i should spray penetrating's oils all over the moving parts? Will this damage anything?
Any particular brand of spray i should use?
-
Reply #4 within this post shows what to push down to release the handle.
Beware the handle will return very rapid.
You could cover the wires solder to the beau-plugs at the bottom rear of the reel mechanism.
Try to apply oil directly onto the parts and just a little extra on the 1st. reel trip levers.
This would be at the back left side where space is limited for cleaning.
Let it drain overnight, then a lite cleaning to wash out any residue the oil all moving parts.
A good indication the shafts are in good working order is. All shafts, bushing and levers will move freely.
-
I sprayed the PB Blaster penetrating's oil all over the moving parts. It seems it freed up all the gunk. I can now pull the lever and the 3 wheels start to spin. Reel 1 and 2 stop as soon as i pull.
The 3rd wheel last for about 6 seconds before it finally stops. Suggestions on what needs to be worked on to get the 1 and 2 wheels to spin freely?
-
Let the machine warm up for 15 minutes.
See photos for more cleaning.
Also spray some cleaning lubricant inside the clock.
Not to much, just enough to loosen up the old grease and grime.
Can you spin the shafts with your fingers.
All cross shafts and bushings should move freely.
-
I cleaned them very well. This is what i notice.
1. when i pull the handle the wheel tries to spin but it hits the slot on the wheel. It seems it does not go back far enough (pictures shown)
i noticed that wheels 1 and 2 the 2 that rub the slots on the wheel are not lining up with wheel 3(picture shown)
also wheel 1 seems to end at the contact that will not allow the arm for the slot to pivot back far enough to get a clean wheel spin.
arrow shown on photo of where it stops.
There is good news. the quarters are accepted and the handle does pull nicely now. However only wheel 3 stops. the other 2 never kick off spinning.
Side note. top glass has a bulb out. How does the glass come out of this type of slot machine?
Thanks for all the assistance so far.
UPDATE>>just like i thought .. i took a straight edge and lined up the back of the readers and i can clearly see wheels 1 and 2 do not line up with wheel 3.attached photo. can i adjust them?
-
please post a picture of the entire right side of the reel mech from lower down and at as high a resolution as you can. You may need to up the compression to make the file small enough. If you are having trouble, email the highest res picture(s) you can take to slotpics@cdyn.com and I'll resize them and post them.
you last pic in post 9 looks like things are way off where they should be ... unless the mech is partially wound up.
if the mech isn't gunked up, the usual reason reels not spinning is the kick happened too soon. Could be as simple as a bracket position needs adjusting (see http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=33181.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=33181.0)) or a bunch of stuff on the right side of the mech are incorrectly adjusted.
the position of the reel wipers arms when the reels are out don't matter. With the reels in, the slots in the metal index discs attached to each reel determine where the wipers are positioned on the contact plate.
I don't recall if the contact plate is adjustable, but the reel wipers can be adjusted on the arms to center the wiper contacts on the rivets on the contact plate. Don't worry about that until you get the spin working.
-
Make sure the reels shaft is seated correctly.
The right side has a machined flat edge.
This has to mate with the piece screwed to the reels chassis.
Try pulling the handle slowly, in some cases this gives time for the index arms
and kickers to properly operate.
Index arms should move up and down freely, also check the index arm rollers theses also should move freely.
Inspect the rollers for excessive wear, damage and or binding.
The reels could be releasing before the index arms retract.
On the bottom corner right side of the reels chassis is a trip lever.
It’s L shaped and in most cases is flush with the back of the machine.
There is a triangle shaped trip pawl associated with the L bracket.
Make sure it moves freely and the spring is not obstructed or binding.
Also on the left side there’s some slide levers and ratchet wheel.
Cleaning and lubricant will aid in a smoother operation.
All Ratchet wheels should spin freely.
Basically at the point where trying to free up the machine without major or minor adjustments.
-
ok, ya got an issue with the adjustment of the nuts on the threaded rod (blue arrows).
you shouldn't have the gap at the upper red arrow, and there should be a gap at the lower red arrow. The lower red arrow is why the game is kicking too early.
manuals can be found on https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/bally_manuals/ (https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/bally_manuals/)
they tend to have a ton of dimensions, but get the 2600 manual which is slightly more sane.
davidlee can give you better info once he sees the big picture below.
this mech is a little different wrt the spring config, but basically works the same way:
http://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/videos/Windup_and_Kick.m4v (http://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/videos/Windup_and_Kick.m4v)
can't tell from the angle if you are missing the black rubber pad in the holder by the sawtooth thing. That would make all the dimensions wrong if it's not there.
-
The gap indicated with red arrow might be caused by a dirty air cylinder.
Hard to tell the space between the blue arrows.
When adjusted properly there needs to be 1/16 of free play clearance.
Also to boomerang trip pawl could be gummed up.
-
I adjusted the spring and removed the gap. the tube is cleaned and lubed and flows nicely.
I do not understand the "missing the black rubber pad in the holder by the sawtooth thing"
what is this pad?
Once again when i pull the handles the 1 and 2 wheels instantly close and do not spin the wheels. Note when i try to move manually the tip of the slots are hitting the bushing where my finger is in the picture. Does that need to be adjusted?
Notice the last picture the contact do not go to the end to reach the last contact. This is the same on the 2 wheels that do not spin.
-
In the top photo it’s kind a hard to tell but the J bracket might need to be adjusted
so that it’s flush with the back of the chassis.
This may be causing the reels to trip before the index arms are completely out of the way.
-
The J bracket is flush with the end of the unit. I tried uploading a small video but it says max size is 1mb. How can i circumvent that threshold?
-
Wolftalk can help out with the video.
Try moving the J bracket towards the front of the machine is my help.
This will allow the index arms to move back a little farther before the wheels are kicked.
Move it roughly 1/16 of an inch or less, this is slightly critical so small increments work best.
Make note exactly where the J bracket is at this present time for reference.
-
I’m still thinking more cleaning of the index arm/ kicker assembly needs to be done.
Observe between the reels with a bright light. You will be able to see the index arms and kickers working.
The index arms should retract easily in one motion.
Observe the third reel index arm. It should moving freely, compare to the first and second reel arms for any movement.
-
I do not understand the "missing the black rubber pad in the holder by the sawtooth thing"
what is this pad?
bally 2600 manual, page 36, item 14 ... rubber bumper.
-
Diagram for rubber bumper.
-
I got in there again today with my tooth brush and cleaned up again. I did notice this when i manual pull the wipers. On the 2 reels that do not work correctly i noticed this tittle piece as shown in the photo is on the opposite side of the working wheel 3. Should it be on this side ?
here is another photo of the little piece that appears to be on the wrong side.
-
Compare it with the 3rd reel, I believe that part activates the index arm.
Sometimes when the wiper board fingers are pulled too far forward when the reels out that piece will get out of place.
So basically make all the levers look the same as the number 3 reel mechanism.
-
AWESOME news. the 2 pieces i talked about previously fixed the spinning issue. the wheels now spin and stop. My first spin i hit 3 bars. No sounds were made and no coins payed out. I cleaned all the contacts on the hopper. When i was putting it back in i noticed it was 10c and had a model number looks like 32T. Will this hopper work. Can i test with some other hoppers i have ?
I also have issues with the quarters not going to the hopper.
-
it's 3ZT.
831-3ZT is a valid model number for a "1767 way" machine. Your reel tapes look correct for that model wrt only having 7's, bars and melons.
basically the same game as an 831-ZE ... you can find paperwork for that on https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/
a 10c hopper can be converted to 25c ... if the coins fit between the pins on the disc and when exiting the hopper lift the roller and step the payout counter, you're ok.
if someone just stuck a 25c coin mech in and didn't make other changes, that's not going to work.
the coin diverter on the door under the coin mech is controlled by the hopper level switch. When the wiffle ball float in the hopper raises high enough to close the switch on the arm, the diverter sends coins to the overflow chute.
if you mean coin just dump back out into the tray instead of cycling the game to reset/add lines, that's a different problem.
first thing to look at for payout issues is if the payout counter is reset and the traces are clean. Then make sure the reel wiper board rivets are clean and the wipers align on the rivets correctly ... the paperwork will help or you can just look at the wire color on the payout counter trace for the win and see if the reel wipers are making a circuit path from the grey wire on reel 3 (center line win) to blue/yellow line on reel 1 for a bar-bar-bar win.
in other words, for a bar-bar-bar on the center line, you need a closed circuit from grey wire 90 on reel 3 to the 20 trace on the payout counter.
a voltmeter can be handy to find the problem ... you have one?
-
after reading all day about hopper issues and manuals i did some more digging.
I took BEAU plug unit off in the back of the machine and i found the 2 round holes wire connectors not connected or should say pushed out of the sockets . I connected them and played the machine. I had some winning combinations but the machine did not payout. I kept on playing and then i hit Bar Bar space on line 3 with bar on the 2nd line and it paid out. what do i need to correct on the 3rd reel to pay on correct line pays?
the coin diverter on the door under the coin mech is controlled by the hopper level switch. When the wiffle ball float in the hopper raises high enough to close the switch on the arm, the diverter sends coins to the overflow chute.
---there is really no coins in the hopper for the wiffle ball float to raise high enough. Can i override this?
-
The 3rd reel tape has slipped out of position.
Lightly pry up the crimped areas on the reel edge. Slide the tape into the right position and re-crimp.
The float ball arm switch. Check the switch for continuity and alignment.
Manually operate the float the diversion coil should activate.
You can temporarily jam the diverter to send the coins into the hopper.
-
As i was doing some cleaning on the hopper i may have moved the wheel a few turns. How do set it back so i can get the correct payout?
Did this effect the payouts now?
Did i screw it all up?
-
your reel tape could be wrong, or your reel wiper arm is mispositioned on the rivets.
for a bar-bar-bar on the center line with blanks on lines 2 & 3 on reel 2, per the 831-ZE schematic your circuit path is:
- wire 90 to 71 on reel 3
- wire 71 to 83 on reel 2
- wire 83 to 23 on reel 1
- 23 to the 20 trace on the payout counter disc
per the reel wiper wiring diagram, the reel index arms should all be in depth 1 slots ... the shallowest slots in the metal index discs.
so make sure when all three reels are indexed in the shallowest slot, you have bar-bar-bar on the center line and the wiper arm contacts are all on the same line of rivets on the wiper boards.
note the "with blanks on lines 2 & 3 on reel 2" above matters. If you have a melon on line 2 and a bar on the center line, the reel wipers will be in a depth 5 slot on reel 2, not a depth 1 slot.
to reset the payout counter, push in the plunger on the reset solenoid on the raatchet side of the unit. The game is supposed to power the reset solenoid coil when you spin the reels. If it's not, your game won't pay unless you win more than a previous win, then it'll just pay the difference.
-
I cant get the machine to payout anything now. Does this Yellow wire do anything?
When i push the hopper in this always is pushed out the back.
ALSO to reset the payout counter, push in the plunger on the reset solenoid on the ratchet side of the unit.
I cant seem to find it. Can you post a picture of what i am supposed to release to get the hopper back to normal. I'm not sure its resetting after payout.
I appreciate all the help i have received so far. A great community of knowledge.
-
Yellow wire is a from the transformer common to all 54 volt circuits.
It maybe possible to re-adjust the locking mechanism, then re-install the loose pin/socket.
Or a small dab of crazy glue.
Check the pin alignment as to prevent pins or sockets from being pushed out.
Depress the plungers on the back of the payout step up unit.
Evidence will reveal which is the step up and reset coils/plungers.
-
It appears that this plug solved the payout issue with the hopper.
I still need to resolve the issue with the coins not going to the hopper but falling to the floor.
the coin accepted light does not illuminate ( yes i switched the working bulb to non working socket.)
-
Are the coins coming out the front of the machine or the hole in the bottom.
It’s either the coin mechanism or diverter.
Diverter shower in photo.
-
Its coming from the diverter. I propped a piece of paper there so its forced to go to the hopper.
-
Test the coil by jumping a yellow to the color coded wire.
-
The riddle has been solved. I worked backwards until i found this switch on the hopper. It appears someone moved the little square box with the 2 little set screws and would never activate the switch when the whiffle ball was lower position(empty hopper). I loosed the 2 screws and set to close the circuit when empty. Ta Da the system is working like a champ. The only issue i have now is the coin accepted light not working. I cleaned all the contacts with alcohols several times already. I guess i can live without it if needed.
Thank you all for great help.
-
Contacts in mainly 3 locations are in involved with the coin lights.
In this order Clean the coin relay switch after that the C switch and then the payout relay on the back of the hopper.
Most of the time the coin relay switch is either dirty and or out of adjustment.
Artificial intelligence thought it would be best to rotate the picture.
-
General wiring diagram for coin lights attached.