New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT PE and PE Plus Poker Games => Topic started by: Itsme on April 14, 2021, 11:54:14 AM
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I friend and I picked up a machine that was suppose to have an unknown monitor issue. It's an IGT PE+ with Double Double Bonus Poker glass.
(https://www.flickr.com/photos/192787223@N06/shares/Cc654i)
We unloaded it and quickly discovered a major issue. Blown battery.
(https://www.flickr.com/photos/192787223@N06/shares/TXv3PC)
We have now purchased two working superboards. We plug them in and get this-
(https://www.flickr.com/photos/192787223@N06/shares/u95TS3)
Where do we go from here? We would like to see if it will even play blind.
We will probably replace the CRT with an LCD, if the machine works.
Edit- gave up on embedding the pictures and added below-
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If you are taking cell phone pics, you can send them to yourself and reduce the size then attach them directly.
On one of those boards - you have a small board with a set of dipswitches - make sure you keep this.
Someone has burned several games onto a chip that are dip switch selectable.
What does the screen look like when you don't have a board in at all.
This might help to understand if its a screen problem or something else.
Does the game appear to take coins ? or are they rejected to the coin tray.
Do you have a sample coin in the coin comparator.
What happens when you push the white setup button - it should go though a series of screens. If your two or three screens into it and then close the door does it go back to the screen you posted.
This will show you that your door optics are working correctly and it senses the opening and closing of the door.
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Jay, thanks for the reply.
We are now questioning whether the boards are actually working, or are "un-tested". Waiting to hear back.
The coin drops straight through. It has a quarter in the comparator.
Nothing happens when you push and hold the white button.
No sound at start-up (or ever).
With one board, and without a board, the screen is gray and rolls.
With the other board, it is gray without the rolling.
Is there a decent way to check and see if the board is getting the proper voltages?
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I am sorry I don't know the voltages.
One of our other members will hop in here.
Did you check your fuses ??
In the board tray there is a transformer that connects to the board with a 4wire molex - I presume its plugged in.
Even with your screen in a bad way when you press the white button it should change screens even if you can't read them.
Potentially power issue, also likely that the chip set is not working.
Did you transfer the chips from the old board to the new board. Your white button is not going to do anything if you don't have a valid set of chips.
Not to be insulting the chips have a knotch or circle on one end - needs to be aligned to the knotch on the socket.
Check to see that a pin is not folded under the chip. It looks like its in the socket but its not. I have been guilty of this numerous times. :duh:
Your game set is made of 5 graphics chips MXO, MRO, MGO, MBO and a small chip called a Capx.
For a superboard there is both a program and a game chip - non superboards just have a game chip socket.
You can run non-superboard games on a superboard by leaving the program chip slot empty.
Your game chip - based on the pictures is a home built mod.
Someone has burned a number of games on a single larger chip and made it dipswitch selectable.
Did the person who sold you the game happen to provide you with a guide that says what dip switch position is what game ??
I am a bit suspect of this.
Can you post your chip numbers. Perhaps you got additional chips with the new superboards etc ?
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We checked the fuses and all were okay.
The replacement boards both came populated with chip sets for single games. We haven't messed with them yet, although I would like to install the 5 in 1 from the dead board eventually.
I found the dipswitch setting on this site for the Universal CAPROM. I will try to attach the pdf. Currently, ours is set for CAPX2174.
One of the replacement boards has a chip set for X002066P (Double Double Bonus Poker) and the other is X00514P (Double Bonus Poker).
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We checked the fuses and all were okay.
The replacement boards both came populated with chip sets for single games. We haven't messed with them yet, although I would like to install the 5 in 1 from the dead board eventually.
I found the dipswitch setting on this site for the Universal CAPROM. I will try to attach the pdf. Currently, ours is set for CAPX2174.
One of the replacement boards has a chip set for X002066P (Double Double Bonus Poker) and the other is X00514P (Double Bonus Poker).
Did you check the fuses with a meter (for continuity) or just visually? Sometimes they look OK, but are blown near an end where you can't see. I always use a DMM to check fuses, for good measure.
I'm still learning IGT machine stuff, but from looking at documentation I've found here's what voltages should be at the big transformer with the power on. All are AC voltages (set your meter to AC VOLTS or "~V" or similar):
- between lugs 1 & 2, about 120VAC (this is the power input from the wall)
- between lugs 4 & 5, about 120VAC (this is isolated power for the monitor)
- between lugs 6 & 7, about 24VAC (this is used various places in the machine, processor board, counters, etc)
- between lugs 8 & 9, about 7VAC (this is used various places in the machine, button lights, etc)
Darren
[edit- is it just me, or does this forum always lose the whitespace when posting?]
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Thanks for the voltages. Out of town for a long weekend. We will get back at it in a few days.
The fuses were checked with the meter.
I wish we had a manual for this thing.
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Back at it last night.
At the transformer-
1 = 105VAC
2 = 120VAC
3 = 240VAC
4 = 3VAC
5 = 110VAC
6 = 24VAC
7 = 0VAC
8 = 3VAC
9 = 3VAC
Also, at J11 (pic attached) on the back board, there are four wires. 3 of them are 24VAC and the orange with green (pin 6) is measuring 0VAC. Are all four suppose to have power?
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Back at it last night.
At the transformer-
1 = 105VAC
2 = 120VAC
3 = 240VAC
4 = 3VAC
5 = 110VAC
6 = 24VAC
7 = 0VAC
8 = 3VAC
9 = 3VAC
Also, at J11 (pic attached) on the back board, there are four wires. 3 of them are 24VAC and the orange with green (pin 6) is measuring 0VAC. Are all four suppose to have power?
I'm not really sure what or how you're measuring the voltages. Based on the fact that there is a single measurement for each terminal, I'm guessing you were putting one lead somewhere else (perhaps on the metal frame or the ground terminal of the plug) for all of the reported measurements.
The voltages on the secondary (output) side of the transformer... I don't know if they're referenced to earth ground or not. The schematics seem to imply not. So I recommend measuring the AC using both legs of the AC lines.
Measuring AC is a little different from measuring DC, where you just put your black lead on a ground reference point, and measure away with the red lead. This is why I cited the voltages as being, for example, "between lugs 6 & 7". That means one lead on each of those lugs. It doesn't matter which lug gets black and which gets red, as this is an AC measurement and will display the RMS (root mean square voltage); no such thing as negative RMS.
As luck would have it, I've got my lower module (the part the power block, mobo, and much wiring) out for cleaning, so I make these measurements on mine and attached are some photos of measuring the AC voltage on the secondary/output side of the xformer, and at the connector that provides that same AC to the mobo. Mine is a slant-top, so things may looks a little different than on yours.
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Darren,
Thank you! It's amazing how much stuff I can screw up. Amazingly, doing it correctly makes a huge difference. Voltages are where they are suppose to be.
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OK, so it looks like you've got good power going to the motherboard, and you're pretty sure your processor boards were bought tested-and-good.
Seems fairly unlikely the motherboard is bad. There really isn't much to it, it's mostly just an interconnect board (with a serial EEPROM and some MOVs). I'd say a unless you have some visible damage to the mobo, or some reason to suspect it's been monkeyed with, it's fairly unlikely to be a problem.
Your monitor is an unknown quantity, too. Without the ability to prove it works, it's possible that you're getting a display signal out of the MPU board, but can't see it due to a bad monitor. I don't suppose you have any way to test the monitor in something else, or a way to try a known-good monitor in the machine?
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The output is technically CGA but the PE+ inverts the signals. You could use a standard monitor but the colors would be all screwed up. It would however prove that your game board is working.
Ceronix is the manufacturer of the monitor. I believe that they have a monitor swap program. Ie send your old they send you a refurbed.
Here is a link to another repair forum with some trouble shooting ideas.
http://antelopearcade.com/files/Ken%27s%20Korner/Ceronix%201492%20Monitor%20Repair%20Guide.pdf (http://antelopearcade.com/files/Ken%27s%20Korner/Ceronix%201492%20Monitor%20Repair%20Guide.pdf)
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Thanks for the ideas. I have a few CGA CRT monitors a few CGA LCD monitors kicking around. We will hook one up and see what we get!
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Plan B-
Ordered the Ceronix LCD. Will update when it arrives.
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Short version- the game now works.
Longer version- put the new Ceronix CPA3003 in the machine with one of the replacement "tested and working" MPUs. Monitor says, no signal. Test the onboard battery, it's good.
Swap the MPU for our other "tested and working" MPU. It says "BAD DATA EPROM". The battery on the board is also completely dead.
Pull the MPU, replace the battery, swap all the chips for the chips off our original, exploded battery board. Now we are running.
Need to get the bill validator going. We have that chip. I assume it won't accept new bills, is this correct?
We also have a few bulbs out in the hold buttons. Need to figure that out. Don't have a clear understanding of how they come out and what bulb they take yet.
We also have to swap out the bezel, which looks more complicated than it should.
Attaching a few pictures.
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What Validator do you have ?
The dbv200 and its WBA cousins can be upgraded to accept all new money except for the latest $100
The same validator using a different validation protocol can be upgraded for all new money but not for the protocol that supports S+\PE+
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I am attaching a picture of the bill validator. Does this tell us anything?
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DBV 145 is older than the 200 and can get some upgrades but you won't get the latest 5,20,50 or 100.... so I personally would not go to the trouble with that head.
You can swap your head and power supply for the 200 version which will get you everything but the latest 100.
Many of the vendors here can fix you up.
The power supplies are identical pin wise but the 200 has higher wattage and visibly it has airholes and fins. Using a 200 head with a 145 power supply doesn't produce consistent results.
It lights up but bill reads are 1 out of 5.... and the occasional jam.
The reason I mention this is that the head you loosen two screws and remove a molex. Simple swap. The power supply however is a bit more snaked in there and is a pain in the A** to replace.
So if the old one just plugs the common logic is why bother.... but seriously its worth the bother.
With that said....
In order to update the acceptance there is a flash harness you can build, some versions have a removeable Eprom which is easier than using a special harness.
For what its worth - I send mine out to get changed.
If you go with the WBA (world bill acceptor) vs DBV (Dollar Bill acceptor) then you need to change out the whole transport.
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Thanks Jay.
We just finished the eprom deal and got it running.
Since it appears to take singles, we will probably just keep it as-is for now. I will refer back if we decide to upgrade it.
This forum and it's members have been a tremendous help. We are close to wrapping this project up!
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Glad to hear your got your game working.
Sounds like you might have a DBV-45 in there. Look for some old (pre-mid-1990s) bills it might recognize...
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As it sits now, it took every $1 bill and $20 bill we fed it and added credits as it should. It rejected $5 bills and we didn't have any $10's to try.
As long as the 1's and 20's continue to work, we are more than happy with it.
The bezel is installed now as well. I'll change out the few burned out bulbs next week and that should be it.