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**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Electromechanical => Topic started by: Danial on February 10, 2022, 09:54:09 AM
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Hi gang. I lurk here a lot but haven't posted much. Hopefully that will change in the coming months now that I have something to talk about besides that Sigma machine I bought a few months ago.
I just bought an almost fully functioning Bally EM yesterday that is being delivered today. I'm looking forward to cleaning it up and working on the known issues. (Some of you more local folks may have seen it on the LV CL site.)
I have looked all over trying to find out what the trailing letters stand for in the model number. This unit is an 889-ZC. I couldn't find a reference to the "ZC" suffix. Any ideas?
Everything seems to work ok, except for the fact that although this is a 3 coin machine, it will let you put in all the coins you want before pulling the arm, ie, I can put in 6 coins and the machine will take them all but yet, I can still only pull the arm once. I'm hoping that's a relatively easy fix.
Here's a couple pics of the new addition to my arcade room: (the door pic and data plate pic came from the CL posting. I can provide better pics once I have the machine in hand.)
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Hi Danial, Congratulations on your new EM, I might be wrong but that looks like a continental EM slot? The machine looks really clean and a lot of fun, post some more pictures on the guts when you get a chance- Bill
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The ZC suffix specifies the machine was made for The Morocco Casino. As far as the the machine accepting more than three coins, do the lights advance to the next pay line with each coin added?
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adding to Slcjeeper reply=889 3 line progressive /3 reels/ 3 lines super jackpot with Bars and 7s -production 1970
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Thanks guys.
Bally Bill, I will get some better pics of the inside tomorrow and get them posted. I'm new to this but after having done some research the last couple days, it seemed to me that the Continental had a few differences, most notably is the logo "Continental" on those machines in the pics I have seen...but perhaps they all didn't have the logo?
SLCJeeper, great question. The pay lines do NOT light up when you insert the coins. Pay line 1 stays lit on the top and bottom glass at all times and pay lines 2 & 3 never light up at any time during play.
I have a couple other minor issues I'd like to ask about, but I know pictures are king, so I will get some good shots in good light tomorrow and get them posted. Thanks again, gentlemen.
(Added: And thanks also for the El Morocco lead on the machine model number. That sent me off for 30 minutes reading up on the history of that casino. Nice to know a little history on the machine.)
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The Progressive Continental is a model 957. It is a 4 reel single coin machine in a wider cabinet. The original Continental is a 4 reel 6 coin multiplier model 847 and does not have a double progressive. Your machine is not a Continental, but is it’s own model 889 3 line 3 coin progressive. There is a model after it that is almost identical except that it is a 5 line 5 coin double progressive and is a model 922.
Remove the top glass and pull the feature board forward. As it’s laying down look at the bottom middle area of the board. There is a mechanism there responsible for advancing the pay line lighting and when maxed also is part of the circuit that stops additional coins from being accepted. This is the “Line Unit”. There is a similar looking part to the left of it and it’s job is to advance the progressive amount. Anyhow, on the Line Unit are 2 solenoids. The one nearer the top resets the unit and the bottom advances the unit. My first guess is that this unit is gummed up and stuck. Press the top solenoid down and the unit should snap back to a start position. This is when the machine will accept coins and only the first pay line should be lit. Now press the bottom solenoid. This simulates the addition of a coin. Look at the left side of the unit for a stack of switches between 2 short posts. As each coin is added and the unit rotates, watch how the posts move around the switches. On the 3rd coin one of the posts should be pushing the switches to their furthest point which also affects the circuit to prevent additional coins from being added. If the Line Unit is not rotating or resetting when manually engaged, it needs to be cleaned. Often there is old grease that has worked it’s way down into the white gear shafts axle. The switches should also be cleaned. Never use contact cleaner or anything abrasive when cleaning them. 99% isopropyl alcohol, a swab, and a thin piece of cardboard like a rough business card is all you need. When adjusted properly these switches are basically self cleaning. For the brass buttons on the right side of the Line Unit board use green Scotch pad until shiny.
Let us know how you come along.
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That is fantastic, SLC. I have guests this week, but next week, when time permits, I will do exactly that and report back. Much thanks!
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if you don't get any paperwork with the game, the 889-C will be pretty close (the C is coincidence). That stuff is in https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/
some of the 889's were 20 stop games, some were 22 stop. The C and ZC are both 22 stop.
if you do get paperwork, let us know what you get.
when you are dealing with the line unit ... and the jackpot units ... highest possible resolution pictures of the both sides at reset including the enough of the wiring on the lugs to see the colors will probably allow matching to unit diagrams I have. Ideally stick a piece of paper behind the unit when taking pictures ... a plain background makes it easier to see wire colors and attachments.
if NLG rejects post as too large, please email pics to slotpics@cdyn.com. If you want to take a ton of pics, I'll stick them on the bingo web site. Highest possible resolution and far back enough get entire areas on the game in the pic (insert/lamp panel, entire back insert panel from various angles, all sides of reel mech, etc.). Goal is for people to be able to zoom in on the pics and read labels.
you probably don't need the unit diagrams ... at least, not the line unit. It's pretty simple and is probably the same as the one in the 889-A - which is on the above web site (w-1112-2).
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"when you are dealing with the line unit ... and the jackpot units ... highest possible resolution pictures of the both sides at reset including the enough of the wiring on the lugs to see the colors will probably allow matching to unit diagrams I have. Ideally stick a piece of paper behind the unit when taking pictures ... a plain background makes it easier to see wire colors and attachments."
I apologize, but much of this isn't clear to me as I am not understanding some of the terminology, I think. Do you want me to pull the reels and the hopper and take pics of them on all sides? I'll be happy to do that, if that's what you are asking for. I can dig into this more after my guests fly home on Monday.
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Addendum: I took a few more pics and emailed them to the address you provided as they were indeed, too large to post here.
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I apologize, but much of this isn't clear to me as I am not understanding some of the terminology, I think. Do you want me to pull the reels and the hopper and take pics of them on all sides? I'll be happy to do that, if that's what you are asking for.
No. See reply #5, second paragraph. The units are behind the display in the top box. Mine slides out but yours might pivot down to a service position? It should look similar to the attached. (#4 is the line unit)
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Sorry folks, I'm not trying to ignore everyone - I've had guests coming and going for the past week and a half. I'll be digging in this weekend and checking out all the helpful hints here. Much thanks!
And speaking of machines, I'm having two more delivered tonight - a 922-C 10 cent and then a model unknown that was a branded token machine for the El Morocco casino that used to be on the Las Vegas strip. More on those later.
Like I mentioned to Phil in my email to him earlier, man, these things breed like rabbits!
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The 922-C and the 815-1 token machine. And as I understand it, a gentleman by the name of Frederick on this site actually went through these a bit just a few days ago for the people I bought them from. Small world!
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Ok, here is the top with the glass removed. I am a total rookie here and afraid to do something wrong for fear of making things worse. Do I just pull this straight out?
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The metal lock bars on both top edges slide up and then the whole feature unit can be tilt forward. You don't have to remove the Philips screws. Just loosen them enough to be able to slide the bars up.
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Making progress slow but sure. All the moving parts seem to articulate correctly but is there something missing on the left side there? Looks like a place where another solenoid belongs. (At arrow.) Also, it needs a number of bulbs. Do you have a recommendation on what to replace them with?
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That unit is what advances the progressive amounts and only has one solenoid. Since it only rotates one direction and doesn't reset, no use for it. The unit in the middle is the important one. That one needs to be well serviced for the machine to work. Look to notes above in an previous post.
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That unit is what advances the progressive amounts and only has one solenoid. Since it only rotates one direction and doesn't reset, no use for it. The unit in the middle is the important one. That one needs to be well serviced for the machine to work. Look to notes above in an previous post.
Understood and thank you. Any recommendation on bulbs? Or just basically match up with what's in there? I'm not concerned about keeping the machine all stock down to the bulbs - if there is a cooler LED replacement, I'm good with that.
And thanks again!
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Comet Pinball has some leds that will work perfect with that glass. They have a 44/47 base Retro SMD bulb in warm white. If you want to give more attraction to the game, put some fast blinking Sunlight White bulb behind the 4 colored stars on the left and right side of the top glass. These will preserve the original look of the original bulbs but will run cooler and save your artwork and will also show the glass better.
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Great, thank you!
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Comet Pinball has some leds that will work perfect with that glass. They have a 44/47 base Retro SMD bulb in warm white. If you want to give more attraction to the game, put some fast blinking Sunlight White bulb behind the 4 colored stars on the left and right side of the top glass. These will preserve the original look of the original bulbs but will run cooler and save your artwork and will also show the glass better.
I found the retro SMD bulbs, but for the sunlight bulb, I want to make sure I've got the one you are referring to. Is this it:
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/455-blinking-bulbs?_pos=1&_sid=bd0383cd6&_ss=r&variant=31153050255462 (https://www.cometpinball.com/products/455-blinking-bulbs?_pos=1&_sid=bd0383cd6&_ss=r&variant=31153050255462)
Also, if these are bulbs that you stock and sell, I would be happy to buy this product through you.
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Yes, those are the fastblink bulbs. I'm just a collector of Bally machines and don't sell anything. I have the same model machine with identical top and reel glass that I'm currently refurbishing and that's how I found those bulbs. I like my machines to look original but sharper lit if I can without it look in like LEDs have been installed.
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Ah, perfect, ok. Well I do appreciate the assist here. I have the companion dime machine (5 line, 922-C) I'll be working on next so I'll be purchasing enough bulbs for both. They'll look great sitting side-by-side in the game room. Have a great evening.
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The manual only shows #44 bulbs in a 889 but your picture looks to have two different bulbs. The thin ones are the #44's and the round ones are flashers.
The line count unit should have two solenoids. The one on the top is the reset coil. There should be another on the lower side. That is the step-up coil. The location is indicated by the arrow on the attached. I can see the coil base plate but it isn't clear to me if there is a coil winding??
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47, 44, 55 and 455 are all 6V lamps with bayonet bases.
47 is dimmest, 55 is brightest, and 455 is a flashing lamp. While a 55 is bright, it is also hot and tends to burn/crack the ink eventually. Incandescent 455's are hard to find these days ... they stopped making them a few years ago.
44 and 47 have the tubular dome/cover, while the 55 and 455 have a more ball-shaped dome. There shouldn't really be 55's in the machine, but ya never know what someone put in there and they'd work. Your round globe lamps could be 55 or 455's ... the number is printed or stamped on the base.
the one issue with using bare/exposed LED's like the 455's substitutes is they can hot-spot a little. Without the cover to diffuse the light, you get more pinpoint lighting. Probably not an issue with a flasher tho, and if sjcjeeper says they are ok, I'd go with the recommendation.
the flourescent light tubes can also be replaced with led tubes. Some just plug in, most require removing the ballast and starter. I'd get the kind that you remove the ballast and starter ... less stuff to fail down the road.
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The manual only shows #44 bulbs in a 889 but your picture looks to have two different bulbs. The thin ones are the #44's and the round ones are flashers.
The line count unit should have two solenoids. The one on the top is the reset coil. There should be another on the lower side. That is the step-up coil. The location is indicated by the arrow on the attached. I can see the coil base plate but it isn't clear to me if there is a coil winding??
I'm hoping the bulbs will be all right. The ones I ordered match the sockets in the machine and the description noted by SLC but I'll find out...grin...
I'll open the machine up again tonight after work and check that coil. I compared it with a pic I found online and everything appeared complete with the exception of the question I had yesterday that was answered.
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47, 44, 55 and 455 are all 6V lamps with bayonet bases.
47 is dimmest, 55 is brightest, and 455 is a flashing lamp. While a 55 is bright, it is also hot and tends to burn/crack the ink eventually. Incandescent 455's are hard to find these days ... they stopped making them a few years ago.
44 and 47 have the tubular dome/cover, while the 55 and 455 have a more ball-shaped dome. There shouldn't really be 55's in the machine, but ya never know what someone put in there and they'd work. Your round globe lamps could be 55 or 455's ... the number is printed or stamped on the base.
the one issue with using bare/exposed LED's like the 455's substitutes is they can hot-spot a little. Without the cover to diffuse the light, you get more pinpoint lighting. Probably not an issue with a flasher tho, and if sjcjeeper says they are ok, I'd go with the recommendation.
the flourescent light tubes can also be replaced with led tubes. Some just plug in, most require removing the ballast and starter. I'd get the kind that you remove the ballast and starter ... less stuff to fail down the road.
More good info. And yes, will definitely be looking at an LED setup for that light tube.
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I'll open the machine up again tonight after work and check that coil. I compared it with a pic I found online and everything appeared complete with the exception of the question I had yesterday that was answered.
The basic unit design is very common, used in a wide variety of EM machines and is also extremely common to have issues being gummed up/sticky over time. The contacts on the other side may also need to be cleaned a little to help. Attached is a picture of a cleaned up step-reset unit from a bally pinball machine for reference.
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I'll open the machine up again tonight after work and check that coil. I compared it with a pic I found online and everything appeared complete with the exception of the question I had yesterday that was answered.
The basic unit design is very common, used in a wide variety of EM machines and is also extremely common to have issues being gummed up/sticky over time. The contacts on the other side may also need to be cleaned a little to help. Attached is a picture of a cleaned up step-reset unit from a bally pinball machine for reference.
That is very clean compared to mine. I see I have a bit more work to do.
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because the steppers were used in pinball machines, there's lots of youtube videos on "cleaning bally steppers"
first pass is cleaning the rivets (synthetic steel wool/green scrub pad and isopropyl alcohol is fast) and making sure the wipers don't drag when resetting from step 1 and max step. The wipers should whizz back to reset.
that's often all you need to do along with checking any switches on the unit, tho a lot of people like a really thin smear of lubrication on the rivets.
if someone has been in there with the wd-40 or other grease on the ratchet, then you get to take the thing apart. Reset the unit and mark the wiper position ... it's possible to put the wipers on the ratchet two ways, and unless it's a continuous stepper unit, the wrong way will likely make you very unhappy.
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because the steppers were used in pinball machines, there's lots of youtube videos on "cleaning bally steppers"
first pass is cleaning the rivets (synthetic steel wool/green scrub pad and isopropyl alcohol is fast) and making sure the wipers don't drag when resetting from step 1 and max step. The wipers should whizz back to reset.
that's often all you need to do along with checking any switches on the unit, tho a lot of people like a really thin smear of lubrication on the rivets.
if someone has been in there with the wd-40 or other grease on the ratchet, then you get to take the thing apart. Reset the unit and mark the wiper position ... it's possible to put the wipers on the ratchet two ways, and unless it's a continuous stepper unit, the wrong way will likely make you very unhappy.
When I open it back up this weekend to clean it, I'll get some better shots. The first time I had it opened, it did appear as if some sort of dry lube like a graphite had been used but I'm basing that only on the discoloration I saw around the moving parts.
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Nice little care package came today, from Comet Pinball. Fast shipping and reasonable prices! Looks like I have something to do after dinner this evening - clean the contacts and replace a boatload of bulbs in the 889 and 922.