New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: Eggboat on March 23, 2022, 04:59:38 PM
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Hello Forum Friends!
Recently purchased my first slot machine to enjoy. I spent weeks researching machines and settled on the IGT brand and locally found a great price on a nonfunctional IGT S+ Red White Blue machine.
I knew going into it, it needed a battery replacement as I researched possible issues and it had an error 12. After replacing the battery, it did its standard error 61 and I recall seeing the 61-1 code but now its just at 61 code at start up and when I press + hold for 5+ seconds the white reset button and next to the on/off switch the code screen goes blank, when I turn the jackpot key, blank code screen but the Spin Reel light button illuminates.
I put off ordering the clear chip as mentioned in the FAQ and spent days looking through the forum trying to find users with similar problems and read through the possible solutions recommended to no prevail. I attempted to check the door optics by performing the test but I cannot get into the 13-0 mode to confirm if this is the issue, I checked all of the BV cable and removed and re inserted it along with the bill box underneath it to no prevail.
At this point I think its time to order the ram clearing chip unless there are any other recommendations for me to try before doing so. I've included several photos to help aid in the solution.
Mfg. Date 9/95 and six serial number unit.
Additional observations include:
No audio sound what so ever
Bill Validator makes no noise at all
Door optic sensor on the door itself does not have the same curved plastic dome on the brass end (see photo)
Slow blinking white dome light and fast blinking red dome light
Spin Reel button is lit, press it once reels spin and code numbers: 1 05 1 appear, press it again (no reel spin) code numbers: 2 01 1 appears, press it again (no reel spin) code number 3 01 1 appears, press it again (no reel spin) numbers disappear, press it again the process repeats.
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One thing you can try first is removing the CMOS chip for 10 seconds and replace it.
Follow the 61 etc and see if you get to clear it
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Get both a Clear chip and a SET chip.
You will need the SET chip to activate your bill validator.
The clear will definitely deactivate it.
Until your past the error 61 your not going to get into most of the self tests.
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Thank you for the recommendations!
I will try the CMOS removal and see if that helps and then move onto ordering the clearing and set chip. Will updated my situation as it progresses.
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Here are my observations:
There is no sample coin in your comparitor.
The flat lens optic on the door is correct. The domed lens goes on the cabinet side.
The switch is hanging from the play max button and the bulb socket is missing.
Sound is controlled by the dips switches. #3 should be on if it isn't. The little blue wheel on the edge is the volume pot. Be sure it is not turned all the way down. It works backwards from what you would think. Counter clockwise increases volume, clockwise decreases it.
I have chips available if you need them and also that button switch. Be sure the button itself isn't broken on the underside where the socket/switch attaches. That is common because they become brittle from prolonged heat.
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I'd like to add....when you get to [61-1], CLOSE the door and turn the jackpot reset key once.
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***** UPDATE *****
I attempted to follow the guidance from slots4home and removed the CMOS chip for 30 seconds, made sure dip #3 is set to on, turned blue volume dial all the way up for now, reinstalled the board, pushed the coin bucket (what I call it) back into place, placed a fresh quarter in the comparitor.
Plugged it back into the wall, with the door open I flip the switch to on, waited for 15 seconds, the 61 code appeared, pressed the white reset switch for 5+ seconds, , finally got my first beep for the machine, code went to 61-1, closed the door completely/flush, turned the jackpot key once, took a good few seconds and..................................................went back to 61 :Scratch-Head:
I repeated the above step again to try it with the door open this time and nothing happened, its stayed at 61-1 until the door was closed and it repeated what happened above. Gotta say I feel like I am making some progress with baby steps.
Guess its wait for the new clear and set chips to arrive. Truly appreciate all of your assistance into this and will update you once the ram clear has been attempted with the results.
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I have seen the CMOS trick work to quickly erase a number of credits and such but after a battery low the cmos is rather scrambled and the clear chip formats it back.
You are making progress - thanks for reporting back.
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That's awesome! You're learning!
You're machine is stuck in the infamous "[61]Loop".....the Clear procedure will fix that.
I must admit, I chuckled on the "coin bucket"....we call it the hopper.
Unless you live on top of a mesa in the middle of nowhere, that machine is going to be waayy too loud with the way you've set it....haha
On the dip switches, it's a preference somewhat....I like 1-4 ON and 5-8 OFF. :cool_thumb_up:
Don't be afraid to ask questions...this website is fulla folks that wanna help ya get your machine up and running the way it should be! :yes:
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***** RAM CLEAR UPDATE *****
Hello everyone. I completed the chip clear process and followed the youtube video and documentation instructions on how to do it. I didn't do the 015 chipset step yet as Im not sure how to do it and if it needs to be done at this stage or if its still the culprit.
When I power the machine on and close the door, I have NO codes and a zero display in the coins played window. After siting about 10 seconds the reels spin and thats all I get the the moment.
The insert coins window does not illuminate and when I try to put a coin in, it just falls out, thinking it maybe just the bulb out
The lower red light on the top dome is flashing and the white lamp no longer flashes as it did previously to the ram clear
The bill validator & hopper makes no noise at all even from the time I got it
The coin comparitors green led light does not illuminate, checked all the plugs and wires going into it and all looks connected
The two loose wires in the photo from the play three credits button have not been attached as I don't know which side they go to, I assume its for the bulb and it should not matter but perhaps some guidance could help before I burn it all up in smoke :propeller:
Any suggestions on what to try/troubleshoot next?
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The light on the coin comparator will not light with the door open.
With the codes gone (good sign) and when you close the door - reels spin (another good sign) this is an indication your machine things the door is closed.
Below the coin comparator. is a small square optics board - and on that board is an even smaller micro button. press the button and see if you get a test credit.
With regards to the insert coin light not coming on.....
Double check to ensure that the cash can door is closed (below the bill validator). Usually the lock has been removed and sometimes it just kind of hangs open a bit.
You might want to reseat the cash can and then ensure the door is closed - perhaps a small piece of electrical tape for good measure.
Once we get your coins working we can then look at your bill validator but for the moment lets focus on the basics.
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I found the small micro switch under the coin comparitor and pressed it and It loaded the test credit, I was able to spin the reels with the spin the wheels button and tried it again with the arm which worked also.
I pulled the metal cash can box out and taped the bottom of the door really well so it wouldn't just flop down when its pulled out, I firmly reinserted back in and firmly closed the door in front of it and back to where I was before.
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The black microswitch you have posted in Reply#9, is from the furthest, left-most button on the deck.
It could have either a "Service" or "Change" label under the clear, acrylic button cap.
Look underneath the button deck and verify that there is NO microswitch on it.
Leave the doubled, green wires on the tab where it is presently.
Also leave the yellow w/purple stripe wire where it is too.
To attach the microswitch back to the button, you will notice that there are two holes on the microswitch body itself.
Those attach to two plastic pins on the the button unit sticking out under the deck.
Look carefully at how the other buttons have their microswitches attached and put this one back on the same way as the others.
Again, do NOT worry about the blue wires...the yellow and green ones that are on the microswitch are fine.
Don't worry about the doubled blue wires, or the single blue wire.
Those go onto the bulb tabs for that button, which is NOT important right now.
Later you may hook it back up to a lamp.
It will come on when the button is depressed.....not sad....just meaning pressed down upon....lol
It will also turn on the top candle lamp on top of the topbox.
Long time ago, it was use to attract a waitress or someone that came around with coins.
These days, some homeowners are utilizing that first button for use as a "Free credit" button on some modifications.
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Whatever you do don’t cut the red wire….. quote from mission impossible … before the Tom Cruise days..
Your on the right track with the test credit working.
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Thanks Stayouttadabunker!
I wired it up as you said, pressed the coin comparitor test switch to load three test cresits, pressed the button and..................won .75 cents :dancing_2: I now know the hopper works and dispenses coins.
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haha...glad it's up and running! :cool_thumb_up:
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I’m still not out of the woods yet, it’s still not accepting coins, not sure if it’s the comparitor or the coin optics under it. I swapped the micro bulbs to see if any were out and the insert coin does light up, they just fall through.
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okay...there's a million things you can do to fix that.
Here's some suggestions...>>>
Wiggle the two gray wires on top of the coin comparitor...sometimes the rake wires are just not having good contact inside of the 2-pin housing and have some oxidization on them.
Using a small Philips screwdriver, rotate the sensitivity dial on the coin comparitor fully counter-clockwise until it stops, then turn it clock-wise a 1/4 turn.
That will put the coin acceptance of the comparitor in the ballpark.
Change out the coin sample with another one.
Open the door and press the Service Credit button on the bottom of the coin-in optics board that's underneath the coin comparitor.
You can add Service Credits up to the MAX bet allowed onto your game.
Clean out the coin-in optics channel by lifting up on the coin comparitor and blowing some compressed air down the black plastic coin-in optic guide.
That plastic guide has 3 tiny holes for the ABC optics that sometimes get clogged up with debris....you're just blowing junk out of it with the air can.
Make sure the bottom black wire on the coin comparitor harness is intact.
That's the main ground wire that makes the whole coin mech work right.
Another thing is the coin-in optics stick test.
Utilize the search box to find several out how to do it if you want.
Just type in "popsicle" in the S+ searchbox area....haha
Ahhh nevermind...here's a link to it...>>>
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=14723.msg78906#msg78906 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=14723.msg78906#msg78906)
Good luck.....let us know if you get it working or not.
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If it turns out to be the coin comparitor there a couple of fixes. replace the 220uf 35v capacitor on the board, and reflow the solder to the all the plug connectors, if that doesn't do it, buy another one.
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Guys, The issue is that the "insert coin" light is not on. Its not ready to accept coins.
A poorly tuned comparator will allow a coin to drop through and not register - but the light to insert coins will be on
A dirty or loose connection to an optic board will miss a coin, but generally speaking loose wires on the optic will also cut a 21 (coin in tilt)
These things are not happening.
Generally speaking if the "insert coin" light is NOT on - then its a problem with the door optics or one of the other doors not sensing its closed.
Back to the basics. Open the door, press the white button several times, close the door. Do the reels spin ? What is the candle doing ?
Is this an upright or a slant ?? in a slant, in addition to the door optics there are also also some plunger switches. Is one of these disconnected.
I don't have a slant so I can't help too much on this but others can jump in here.
I think we already ruled out cash can problems but cash can doors can also have sensors on them.
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In his post form 7:52 this morning he confirms that the insert light bulb was dead, he inserted a new one and the insert light comes one.
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Ok - I read it backwards then..... me bad. :banghead:
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Good Afternoon!
I will try the suggestions from this morning as soon I have a chance, I was poking around inside the machine only to break one of the wire off the door optic sensor inside the machine below the on/off switch. I think I am pretty much done trouble shooting until that is fixed/replaced. I wish I could just hardwire and do away with the door optics and the BV door optics also but I'm afraid to attempt it and fry the board.
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Good Idea or Bad Idea????
While I await for my replacement door optics to arrive, I have an old IR remote kicking around I no longer have use for. I broke it apart and soldered it to the wire from the door optic (photos below). Im not sure which wire goes to which part of the optic but I assume its like a 12v light bulb?
Should I try it? or will I fry it?
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I suspect the voltage is going to be wrong.
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Jay I didn't even think of the voltage, I was assuming all IRs were the same unlike a light bulb. To clarify, the domed door optic inside the unit under the power switch is the transmitter and not the receiver which is located on the door its self?
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You've got this all backwards.
The door optic is an emitter optic.
If you view it with a digital camera, you will see infrared light emitting from it.
The cabinet side optic is a receiver optic...no light comes out of it....two totally different things.
Your remote control used an emitter optic.
You don't need optics.
Just add wire to the door optic wires enough to run it back to the receiver wires and connect them together making the machine think the door is closed.
You can run them to a switch stuck in an empty door hole on the side if you want? Flip it on and off like open/closed?
Depends on what you want to do until you get a new set of optics.
***Warning***
Just do NOT cross the wires.
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I would prefer to just bypass it to avoid future issues. Does it matter which wires from one sensor to the other connects to? Green/Purple to the Red/Green&Blue? In addition to this, should I just go ahead and bypass the bill validator sensor also? I maybe having issues with it also. Anything else to bypass?
Super Thanks to everyone trying to assist/guide me through this repair process :thank_you:
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Of course it matters which wires are connected!
If you touch a hot wire to ground, you will blow up/ burn out stuff...then you'll be crying!
Green to green is most important...those are the ground wires....connect those together.
Use a switch of some kind to open/close the hot purple emitter wire with the red receiver wire.
Normally, I install a cherry switch on the cabinet side near where the receiver optic was for this.
As far as bypassing sensors, you can bypass every sensor there is on a slot machine, but then it wouldn't be a real slot machine would it?
Go ahead and wire the bill validator doors' green wires together if you want.
It won't hurt anything....most, good slot dealers do that anyway because the locks are usually removed before leaving the casino, and the cashbox doors don't stay closed too well without a lock.
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Stayouttadabunker
Thanks for the clarification, I looked at the door bypass FAQ and the diagram showed a resistor parts being used and it didn't looked cut and dry as you put it. So I will run a wire and connect the green on the door to the green/blue below the power switch with a direct cable and run a second direct wire from the purple on the door to a toggle switch, then run it to the red wire under the power switch assuming purple and red are the hot leads. I tried a 12v test light to confirm which was hot and didn't get a readying on any of the plug wires.
I looked for the bill validator green wires and found a wrapped group of green wires directly behind the bill validator box. Below is photo of what I think you were referring to and it appears the wires are crimped together already. Will look further into it once the door optics portion is complete first. Still taking baby steps :dancing_2:
I also noticed a two wire/connector just hanging in the back, not sure if its meant to be connected or not, see photo.
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***** DOOR OPTICS BYPASS UPDATE *****
Completed the doors optics bypass as described. Good News "NO SMOKE" bad news I can't get past the 61-1 now after turning the jackpot key once. Both red & white dome lights now blinking.
Any suggestions? Did I take a baby step backwards?
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That's the problem with a bypass sometimes on an S+ with certain SP chips.
Also why you didn't get a reading when you were looking on the plug wires.
It's not as high as 12vdc....it's lower than that really.
Anyways, I've had a door optic bypass on my machine for about 15 years without ever having a problem?
Anyways, the green wires with the wire crimp on the end is okay in your first photo.
Those used to run to a small tiny microswitch on the casbox door.
In the 2nd photo, you need to turn off the power and pull up on whatever is caught in MPU tray.
Hard to tell in your small photos but I think it's blue and yellow wires?
Let's hope it's not pinched and grounding out on the MPU tray!
On your other question...Did you CLOSE THE DOOR before you turned the reset key?
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Bummer the optics bypass won't work on my S+ machine. Guess I'm at a standstill until my new optic sensors arrive. Will the newer style S2000 optic sensors work? I see more of those around than the S+ versions to order.
I pulled up the wires pinched in the MPU tray and they don't appear to have been cut to short out.
I did tried the reset both ways, with the door open and also closed and the bypass key won't advance the 61-1 code.
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Post a link to which optics you are looking at exactly.
Observe how the wires are going into the 2-pin Molex housing connector on the photos of the ones that you're seeing for sale.
You will notice one side of the connector housing is "pointy".
You need to show me this "bypass key" ???
There's no such thing as that unless you wired up the red and purple wires to a switch that has a key? lol
What did you do?
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Sorry with my bad verbiage, I meant to say jackpot key not bypass key.
I didn’t have a switch handy at home so I just did a direct wire run for the door optics. I ran a solo green wire from one green plug to the other and ran a solo red wire from the purple to the combo green/blue wire.
I can provide photos later this afternoon once I get home from work.
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Assuming you have this all wired correctly .....and the guys helping you will get you sorted..... on that.
From the perspective of resetting things - changing settings etc, you can't do any of that with the door closed.
So you do need a switch or a way to quick disconnect your wires so that the machine knows the door is open, and then closed again.
Ie you get an error, you open the door, press the white button a couple of times, close the door and turn the JP reset key.
If the machine has never sensed the door being open then the white button is going to do nothing for you.
Your just essentially turning the jackpot reset key with the door closed - which is going to do nothing for you either.
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Thanks Jay!
The switch makes complete sense now. I will incorporate it into the wiring and report back with an update.
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oh boy...please re-read my Reply #28 from yesterday morning at 8:15am.
I said that you need to put a switch in between the red and purple wires.
Basically, turning the jackpot key with the door closed ALL THE TIME, only gets you into the accounting system mode of the machine.
That's why I said you need to put a switch on the wires....so you can simulate or fool the MPU into thinking the door is open or closed.
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***** DOOR OPTICS SWITCH INSTALLED *****
Installed the manual door optics switch to cut power to the hot lead simulating the door is open. Tried the jackpot key and still stuck at 61-1
Took MPU board out and installed RAM clear chip again to start from scratch. Performed the clear process as written and noticed only the red dome light was now. Blinking at a medium rate. Reinstalled my SP chip back into it, slide the coin hopper back in, left the switch off to simulate open door, powered it back up, code 61 appears as planed, now white and red dome light flashing, pressed and held white reset button for 10+ seconds, heard a beep and now 61-1 code appears, flip the switch on to simulate door optic is closed, closed door and lowered arm, turned jackpot key once, 61-1 still appears and no reel spin after 15+ seconds.
Am I still having an optics issue? Could my hopper cause the issue? Or is my older SP731 chipset the issue? Or my non working bill validator the issue?
Not sure where to go next and not sure white the white dome light blinks after I press the white reset button, I don’t temper it happening before when I cleared it in the past until I had the door optic cable break.
Another observation, if I turn the machine on and get to the 61 code, close the door and turn the jackpot key, it gets me into a 0000 0000 code and with every turn of the jackpot key it changes. Not sure if this is good or bad but it confirms the jackpot key is working.
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Yes - this would appear your having an optic issue.
If your not getting the reel spin then the machine still thinks your door is open.
You could pull your hopper or your bill validator and neither would make any difference at this point.
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Since the door optic bypass with the switch installed is not working on my S+ machine, would these S2000 optics work?
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***** NEW OPTIC SENSORS INSTALLED UPDATE *****
Installed the new door optic sensors after breaking the wire off the last one. I performed the clear chip process again and the red dome light flashes only. Reinstalled the gaming chip. The red dome and white light begin flashing. Pressed reset button for 10+ seconds and 61-1 illuminates along with an audible beep. Closed the door and turned the jackpot key and nothing but 61-1.
Took out cell phone camera and cannot see red IR light on the sensors. Any suggestions what to diagnose next?
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Are they aligned? Is the cashbox door switch wired together? Did you place tape on cabinet side and make a mark where the optic is? And do the same on door side? Close and latch the door. Do the 2 marks line up? You can also remove the reel glass to look directly at optics for aligning.
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Yes, I used painters tape to align the optics so when the door closes it should line up with the lever down. I posted a photo of the cashbox switch and a member stated it looked correct.
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You should not need to run the clear chip through each time.
If your not seeing an image with your cell - and you will only see if from the emitter.... and it will be just a little spot flickering not some great big bright light ......
I would check the voltage (using a multimeter) to the emitter. Make sure your getting power.
Not sure if you have checked your fuses through this process ? this is a long shot.
Your symptoms all point to a door open condition. Typically caused by door open, or cash can door open.
Do you have an alternate game chip of any kind ? - just trying to rule out any other kind of funny behavior.
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I will revisit your suggestions tomorrow when I get back from work and report back the results.
Super Appreciate the continued support from yall!
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I think you blew up the optics on the MPU around your Reply #23 when you decided to try to use some unknown optics.
It may have drawn too many amps thru MPU IC components and could be why this board will not see the door closed.
You may need a spare MPU.
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***** VOLAGE CHECK & ALIGNMENT CHECK UPDATE *****
Had a chance to revisit the machine after work today and checked the voltage on both emitter and receiver and both showed voltage. Then double checked my optics alignment, moved the inside sensor up a very little. Pressed and held the reset for 10+ seconds, closed the boor, turned the jackpot key and it went to 65-1. Opened it up, pressed the reset button again, closed the door and turned the jackpot key and it turned to 0 coins played and it did a test spin. Coins still falling through and not registering a credit with the coin comparator.
Now I am at a red flashing light and insert coin light is lit. Not sure what th check next, should I take a closer photo of the cash box bypass to confirm it was done correctly?
All of the fuses check OK visually and with a continuity meter check.
Unfortunately I don't have a spare gaming chip to try unless someone on the board has one for me to obtain.
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Try changing the sample coin and if that doesn't work turn the sensitivity pot counter-clockwise. If the insert coin light is lit the machine is ready for play. The blinking red light will extinguish once you've successfully played a game.
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Insert coin light lamp is lit.
Tried switching coin, had a brand new quarter and older washington quarter as my sample coin and coin still falls trough, turned sensitivity all the way counter clockwise and coins still fall through. It was mentioned to me earlier here the green LED light the the coin comparator doesn't need to be illuminated but I've seen some Youtube videos where it was lit green.
I also blew air through the coin optics below the comparator and no luck with that. Pressed the coin credit test button and that functions play.
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test for continuity on your coin comparitor harness. Just from where it plugs into your cc and back to the main harness, about 6 inches from the cc. I still think you have an bad coin comparitor. The cap on the board goes bad, it's a 220uf 35v. Or just buy one, make sure you get the right voltage.
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The LED won't be illuminated with the door open. I think hotlsot is right, you may have a bad comparitor or the wrong comparitor installed. You can tie the rake on the comparitor for now if you want to test the rest of the machine. It will accept anything that will fit down the chute that way.
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I tested the black wire loomed cable/harness adapter containing the black, yellow and purple wire with the red jumper wire at the end and all tests good for continuity.
Attached is a photo of what I have. Whats interesting is the bracket that holds the comparator has 5¢ written on it with a sharpie. Not sure is the bracket and comparator came together by the previous owner or if it was original, the faded glass sticker states 25¢. I put a nickel into the comparitor and tried to play it and it just falls through like the quarters.
How do I perform the tie the rake procedure?
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Have you pushed the tiny white button just under the coin comp.? It should add a credit for each push to the max. coins. You should be able to press spin reels and play a psuedo game. With the coin comp. removed you should see a solenoid that moves the rake. Wire it so all coins go to hopper
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I am able to press the tiny white button under the coin comp and I do get up to three credits and it does allow me to play it but after that the red light still remains blinking and the quarters still fall through. I do not hear or see any solenoid movement at all.
I tried the popsicle test and it never triggered the optics through the 10-1, 11-1 and 12-1 tests. So I took the coin bracket assembly off and split the coin optics apart, I found some lint and what looked like some sticker/crumbled paper inside and I also blew out the holes with air, put it all back and still the same thing results.
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Eggboat,
Do you see these 2 screws I've encircled in green?
Remove them, take off the rake, the magnet, and pull the gray plug out of the front top of the coin comparitor.
Your machine will accept coins once you do what members are telling you to do.
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Pulled off the rake/magnet. Unplugged the gray wire. Reinstalled the coin comparator and closed it up. Dropped a coin into it and it went to the hopper. Code 21 now appears and the white dome light is not blinking.
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Open, the close and latch the door a few times to clear 21. Since your optic test did not work, I would think you need new optics. Check with Jim. If your BV is working have fun playing. If you did a clear, make sure to use set chip to turn on BV and set denom.
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Opened and closed the door a few times and the code 21 still appears, also flipped the inside power switch on and off and still code 21.
I have the BV set chip but no clue on how to set it up to get it working. My BV has never made any noises since I got the machine and the lights where the the bill insert is does not light up at all but could be the bulbs.
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It should cycle. Power supply most likely bad. Going to guess that you have a dbv145 or 200. If you can't clear 21 with door lat,,then it will need a clear
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Does the BV have its own power supply?
It appears to be getting power, there appears to be one solid LED on and one next to it blinking.
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Post a picture of it
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Does the BV have its own power supply?
Yes it is mounted on left side of cash can cage.
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Opened and closed the door a few times and the code 21 still appears, also flipped the inside power switch on and off and still code 21.
When you close and fully latch the door, does the 21 disappear from the display for a couple of seconds before returning, or does it just stay on the display and never change?
I have the BV set chip but no clue on how to set it up to get it working. My BV has never made any noises since I got the machine and the lights where the the bill insert is does not light up at all but could be the bulbs.
There's a few things to digest here.
First, the bill validator will not attempt to accept bills until you use that SET chip to enable it. Directions to do so can be found in the FAQ post in this section.
That said, you probably cannot enable the bill validator while the machine is throwing the 21 error code, and even if you could the machine won't attempt to accept bills until the 21 error is resolved, so that needs to be dealt with first.
Finally, the bill validator should make some noise upon power-up, even if it hasn't been enabled. If it's not making any kind of noise when you turn the machine on, you'll have some work to do there, too. At this point, though, your first project needs to be resolving the 21 error.
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When I open and close the latch, the code 21 remains on and doesn’t disappear momentarily. I see a black what appears to be a power supply attached to the left side near the top. My BV is a DBV-200 (see pics)
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When I open and close the latch, the code 21 remains on and doesn’t disappear momentarily.
That indicates to me that the machine is not seeing the door as closed, and the error won't clear if the machine doesn't see the door as closed.
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I was able to clear the 21 code with running the clear chip again and also installed the rake back onto the comparator. I am able to get it to test spin using the button on the coin optics. I'm not sure which direction to go in now? Replace comparator or coin optics or both at this point.
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RB can help you with the coin in stuff you need
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...I'm not sure which direction to go in now?...
Close the door, drop a coin in the slot, and tell us what happens.
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I close the door, put a coin in the slot and it falls through into the tray. No credit and it doesn’t drop into the hopper.
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I close the door, put a coin in the slot and it falls through into the tray. No credit and it doesn’t drop into the hopper.
That means the CC is rejecting the coin before it gets to the coin in optics. Try putting a different coin in the CC and turn the adjustment screw all the way counter clockwise.
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I close the door, put a coin in the slot and it falls through into the tray. No credit and it doesn’t drop into the hopper.
I still can't find a reply that confirms the LED display blanks and the reels spin right to left when you close and latch the door. Is that true?
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I’ve replaced the sample coin with a newer and also an older Washington water and it still rejects, even with dual turned all the way counter clockwise
Yes when I power it on the reels spin right to left the red dome beacon flashes red at a medium rate
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Do the reels spin when you close the door ?
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Try this, play games with door open. When you win and it goes to the credit meter, close the door. Do the credits go away? If yes then door optics are working.
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Since you have a machine with a belly door you can do the following:
with the power off, take out the cc-16, undo the two screws holding the cc-16 bracket, unplug the coin assembly from the machine connector.
open the belly door, now, plug in the coin assembly, attach the cc-16, make sure no connection is shorting against metal, turn on the power , close the door and see it the LED comes on, if yes, then turn off the power , undo the cc-16 from the assembly, keep it connected to the cc-16 cable, turn on power , wait for the LED to come on, drop a coin in the cc-16, see if it will accept it, coin should exit from the left side.
I would also do the Popsicle test again, odd that 11 or 12 do nothing, the fact that you can put a credit on the machine using that small button on the optics would indicate that 11 is working, because when in 11_1, pushing the test button should change the 1 to a 0, indicating the 11 is working.
you might be able to fix the optic problem by removing Q-2 or Q-4 , this removes the interaction between the cc-16 and the coin optics. you may need a cc-16.
let us know the results.
Jim
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**** Coin Comparator LED test updated *****
Removed the CC-16 and attached it through the belly door. The green LED did not come on.
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Did I miss your reply to #74? Do credits go away when you close the door?
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I played and won 1 credit, the quarter was dispensed from the hopper into the tray, the win meter shows 1 and the credit meter also shows 1 when the door is closed.
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So the test credit did not clear when you physically closed the door.
The machine thinks it’s open.
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Your door optics aren't working correctly (Not "seeing"each other) or your bypass switch isn't closing the optical circuit of wiring.
With the door in an "OPEN" state, the machine will NEVER accept a coin.
You need to make sure your bypass switch is opening/closing the circuit
or
You need to completely get rid of the coin optics bypass you made and get a known good working set of door optics in order for your machine to accept a coin for credit.
This is also why your coin comparitor LED light doesn't come on when the door is closed and while the comparitor is hanging out thru some hole.
Also, the [Coins Played] display never goes out whenever you open/close the door.
Finally, your reels only spin when you power on the machine - not because you close the door.
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Before you put a test credit on. Press the cash button once to put machine in credit mode. Now play until you get a win to the credit meter not from the hopper. Close the door. The credit should go away. If not then the optics are still not aligned good. Tinker adjust some more
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Very Odd my original optics bypass never worked. I ordered two sets of optics and when I installed one pair. I was able to get past the Code 61 and back to where I was able to play a test credit. Not sure why I could have gotten past the code 61 or 63 without functioning optics.
I put a meter onto the optics wiring and I do get voltage on both emitter and receiver.
I will try to put the machine in credit mode and see what happens.
Is there any other way to test the optics without using the 10-1, 11-1, 12-1 method?
Lastly, can the machine be fixed to just play with free credits? and YES! I know it wouldn't be a real slot machine anymore smh
Starting to feel like I'm going in circles
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Yes, you can wire to the test psuedo button and hook it to bet one button. Each push will add up to max credits. Don't give up. You almost have it. Like I said way back. Remove the reel glass then you can move the optic with door closed to get it right
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The other way to go is to fit the optics together by hand and see if the test credit clears.
The earlier notion by bunker was that when you hooked up foreign optics you may have damaged the optics chip on the MPU. The above fit test will give you a good indication of that.
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I rigged up some foreign optics but I never ended up plugging them in as it was not advised to do so. I assume if the optics chip was damaged, I wouldn't get any voltage out of the optics wiring.
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Having voltage and seeing each other are not the same
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Gotcha voltage doesn't mean they are still seeing each outer.
I unscrewed the optics and closed the door enough to have the sensors butt heads against each other and still nothing. At this point it sounds like I would need to replace the board to get the optics working.