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**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Electromechanical => Topic started by: bally 809 on March 24, 2022, 07:33:28 PM
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Hi guys new to the forum. I'm working on an 809B 5 coin that's been converted to 3 coin. I have it working 90% my last issue is it won't pay on a triple bar match. It pays correctly on everything else and any multiplier. I also haven't had the bell go off yet. when I line up the triple bars I hear click and then nothing. Any ideas? Thanks. Mike
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get it working with single coin first as it gets more complicated for multiplied wins.
if the bars match relay doesn't power, then it's a reel wiper board issue.
if you don't have the schematic, look in https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/ for it.
if the bars match relay does power, then the three bars win circuit goes thru a bars match relay switch and the odds unit wipers to the 200 trace on the payout counter. Could be anything in that path or a problem with the outboard wiper finger sitting on the 200 trace.
if ya need more info, got a voltmeter or jumper wire?
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Thanks. I'll check those spots tomorrow. Yes I do have a voltmeter. I see the 200 payout goes through a different switch on the relay than the 100 so I was going to go in that direction first.
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if you stick a voltmeter probe on orange wire 70 on any handy 50V coil, poking along the circuit path should show 50V.
'course, getting to the places the stick the probe on isn't too easy :-)
to test the bell, jumper yellow wire 30 to the red wire (10-2). 10-2 is probably easiest to get to on the reel 1 wiper board. Wire 30 is on the coin switch.
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Success! It ended up being the eyelet on the 200 pad on the circuit board. The wire was soldered to the eyelet but the eyelet wasn't making contact with the pad on the board. It's now paying everything correctly :dancing_2: Now i need to track down the bell issue.
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for the bell, stick a voltmeter probe on blue wire (20) on any lamp socket. Other probe on blue wire 20-1 on reel 3 wiper board and verify you have 6VAC during a payout.
if you do, then it's a reel wiper issue, the bell itself, or the plug connection from the reel mech to the cabinet.
if you don't have 6V on 20-1, there's a payout relay switch and a reel mech A-2 switch in the circuit, along with plug connections.
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The bell was about the easiest repair on this, the clapper was bent against the bell. The bell rings on all bar payouts only (which is fine) but it won't shut off until you credit up and pull the handle again, which is why I think they bent the clapper against the bell. Is there something that should shut the bell off?
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an 809-B is only supposed to ring the bell while the payout relay is powered.
there were a lot of 809 variants that rang the bell until the handle was pulled.
it's possible you don't have an original 809-B ... possibly a different hopper. There should be a switch on the payout relay with yellow (30) and green/white (45) wires on it. Wire 45 goes to the reel mech A-2 switch and other blade has blue wire 20-1 to reel 3 wiper board.
do you have that switch on the payout relay?
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I ended up putting a connector on the bell and just leaving it disconnected. This one does ring the bell till the handle is pulled and he didn't really care about the bell anyway. One more question, is there a way to make the reels spin a little longer?
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is there a way to make the reels spin a little longer?
reel 1 should spin for a couple revolutions. If it's more-or-less doing that, then only the fan on the clock and the variator link length has any impact.
the blades on the fan should be at right angles to slow the fan as much as possible, and the variator link needs to work ... or at least not be permanently short.
the variator link is the bar connecting the clock to the main shaft at the back, and it has a ratchet/gear on it that changes the length of the link every time the handle is pulled. When the link is shortest, the reels index faster.
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I'm guessing it is probably working correctly. Sometimes the first reel will stop almost as fast as the handle returns. I saw that gear on the side and noticed it was offset but didn't realize what it did. It works correctly. Sometimes the reels can end up on the same thing a couple times in a row, never on a winner though lol.
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if you don't mind dealing with the handle getting stuck down, the other thing you can do is move the position of the L-shaped stop bracket (J) on the right/back/bottom side of the reel mech.
if you shift it a little towards the front of the machine, the game will wind up a little more before it kicks off the reel spin.
if you move it too far tho, the handle will bottom out before the kick and will be stuck in the pulled down position. If that happens, one solution is to reach in with a long screwdriver or similar and push the bottom of the latch pawl (O) to make the kick happen.
generally the right edge of the stop bracket is even with the frame edge to about 1/16" away from it towards the front.
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Yep I have that bracket adjusted to where the link inside just contacts the cross shaft. If I adjust it any farther the handle starts to jamb when pulling it, so it's about as good as it's going to get. Thanks for the help.
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forgot the follow-up.
the other thing affecting reel spin length is the latch links under the reels.
if you pull the reel mech and flip it up so you can see the bottom, the latch links are the bars extending from the front to the back and usually have four holes in the front end. See #23 on the below diagram.
for a 3 reel game, the reel 1 link should be in the second hole from the end, reel 2 the third hole, and reel 3 the fourth hole. Reel 3 usually has a variator like the clock link has.
if someone put the reel 1 link in the first hole, reel 1 will index faster.
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The 200 pay contacts on the payout step up might need cleaning and adjustment.
Possibly a jackpot relay switch needs attention.
Cleaning the contacts and checking the continuity when closed.
Horizontal switches seem to accumulate more debris.