New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => WMS Williams Video => Topic started by: Yoeddy1 on March 04, 2016, 01:01:21 PM
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Hi guys,
So I have the USB connection going from the OLED button deck to the MPU.
I have the power cable connected to the OLED panel, but the other end has 2 connectors labeled p1 and p2. Where do I plug these in?
Thanks,
Jason
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It's a pigtail, it plugs into either of the aux power plugs on the lower right hand of the backplane. I would verify that the 2 pin plug that connects to the oled panel is 24 volts with a meter. I have to verify which pin is hot and which one is groud. I will post that info tonight unless someone else chimes in.
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Ok thanks Rick. Looking into it now.
Jason
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It should plug into J-16 or J-22
Like Rick said on the right side of the backplane.
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Ok, I think we're looking good so far.
As for the multitude of OLED button menu options, which one do I select? Depend on the game?
Jason
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So with a 13.x game (Colossal Wizards), the game cleared fine, loaded, and I saw the screens showing the erasing and loading of button panel firnware. The lights danced around in green. At the end of all of it, I got a "Call Attendant". Error was that wrong OLED panel was selected. I tried others, but nothing seemed to work.
I wiped and reloaded with Dean Martin Wild Party, which is 9.27 I think. Wiped fine, went through the erase load procedure, lights danced around. Configured the game. USB OLED was already selected. I exit the game but I have a call attendant message, but no error. Just says configuration in progress behind the call attendant window.
Something wrong here?
Jason
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When you go into the setup screen after a clear, the correct button panel should already had been selected, do not change it. You should only be using SSG1490 and SSG 16CX or later to program the firmware of the oled panel during load.
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So I might be a bit lost on the lingo Rick...apologies.
I have the following OSs:
SSSG-000-1490 OS Family H9.27
H13.531_16G2
These pretty much work with any of my games in my BB2 library.
Are these not compatible with an OLED deck?
For what it's worth, I'm plugged into J22 for power. So the J1 and J2 label on each connector doesn't matter then? Only one needs to be plugged into the backplane? I ask because the old standard deck had a J1 J2 plug that connected to the door, but they both had to be connected.
Thanks,
Jason
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Those are the right ones. After you clear the game and you are selecting devices, the correct OLED panel should already be selected by default, don't change it.
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I'm going to load a G+ Deluxe game with H13.531_16G2 OS and I'll let you know.
You don't suppose this is one of those scenarios where the wrong firmware has locked things up? I read a thread that requires a WMS FW tool to unlock the panel or something like that?
Thanks,
Jason
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If the machine finds the oled panel in setup,
You should be good to go. It takes a little time
To configure everything.
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So configuring Dean Martin's Wild Party with SSSG-000-1490 OS Family H9.27 it does automatically list "USB OLED Button Panel". However, after I set up and exit, I get a "Call Attendant" and it never goes anywhere, even though it says Configuration in Progress. I let it sit for a long time.
I just tried to load Queen of the Wild with H13.531_16G2 and it doesn't list any panel. I can scroll through the list of panels, but when I choose "USB OLED Button Panel", it says that the panel selected does not match, or something to that effect. There's also a message that goes on and off that says "configuring panel" but it never seems to happen. Almost like something's blocking it from being configured. If I reboot the machine it just comes up with "Call Attendant" and something like "Panel does not match or Incorrect Panel" or something like that.
In both scenarios, when loading the gradient is lighting up the buttons. However they eventually go off when I exit set up and try to go to the game. The main spin button hasn't done anything yet but flash a red light in the lower right hand corner of the button.
I'm lost guys.
Could the old wiring harness for the standard button panel play into this? The J1/J2 wiring harness from the lower door is still connected to the backplane somewhere. Is there a jumper somewhere that needs changed?
Thanks,
Jason
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See? It does light up the gradient. The main spin button never comes on, but it has a flashing red LED in the lower right hand corner.
Jason
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Ok, it sounds like I might have the wrong FW loaded for the OS. Looks like I'll be doing some updating tonight with the panel, so hang tight. I guess flashing red LED has a definition associated to it and there's some documentation coming my way.
I'll update the progress later tonight.
Thanks for everyone's input so far. I didn't think it should be this complicated. ;)
Jason
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Complicated? Of course it has to be complicated :banghead:
You'll get it figured out Jason :yes:
Thanks for everyone's input so far. I didn't think it should be this complicated. ;)
Jason
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A while back I was having button mismatch issues with my panels. I thought they were bad. Come to find out I was using an OS that was locking the panel, so it wouldn't just re-program when changing games. I got a 16CJ OS and I have not had a problem since.
Just a thought for you. Ok, it sounds like I might have the wrong FW loaded for the OS.
Jason
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If he is using OS H9.27 and OS H13.51 it should be loading the firmware automatically. Did you disconnect the old button panel harness from the backplane? That is the only thing that I can see that's tripping up the configuration menu. Both OS's should automatically select USB Button Panel in the Device Settings.
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If he is using OS H9.27 and OS H13.51 it should be loading the firmware automatically. Did you disconnect the old button panel harness from the backplane? That is the only thing that I can see that's tripping up the configuration menu. Both OS's should automatically select USB Button Panel in the Device Settings.
Do you know which connectors the old button panel wiring goes to on the backplane? I wouldn't mind taking them out anyway if they're no longer needed and clean up some of that wiring mess.
Jason
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It should be labeled "buttons". I'll double check when I get home.
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For what it's worth, I traced the P1/P2 wire clusters from the door back to the backplane. See photo...the black and white connectors that are disconnected are it. The black and white empty ports are where they go.
Didn't make any difference having them out.
Still awaiting documentation and next steps. Will update soon...
Thanks,
Jason
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Guys,
For some reason, there appears to be some email issues going on. Some of the messages that we've traded have been delayed by 12 hours or so. I'm assuming it's with my ISP.
Anyway, if you haven't seen my response yet, I'm not ignoring you and please resend if you didn't hear from me.
At this stage it sounds like I need the USB FW updating utility. If email isn't working, let's use PM here and we can figure out what to do.
Thanks again for everyone's help.
Jason
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Well shoot. Looks like I lost this battle big time. I have been up one side and down the other with this OLED panel from a hardware/firmware/software (WMS tool) perspective, and it looks like something is wrong with the big spin button. Red light always blinking, doesn't take a flash of any version of FW from the WMS updater tool, and the pins are seated properly to the panel. The button doesn't even respond to the switch test in the WMS tool either.
So I guess I'm dead in the water. Thanks to everyone that reached out to help this morning and for sending the diagnostic tool.
Next steps TBD...
Jason
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I might have a few spare OLED Splash decks soon. Little bit more, $325-$375ish, but tested working. :cool_thumb_up:
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So the solution is to buy from a reputable vendor. Send that pos deck back to whoever you bought it from and get your money back.
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So first of all, the individual that sent me the deck is one of the most honest and reputable people that I buy parts from. Second of all, this deck was sent to me without charging me and the parts that I receive from this individual are always minty. This was a circumstance that just happened...one of those things. I have absolutely no doubt that this will get resolved. He's one of the few out here that bend over backwards for people and is always mindful of doing the right thing. I can tell you this, if it wasn't for this person, I wouldn't have a BB2 conversion going on in my game room.
Thanks,
Jason
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Not sure who you are talking about but that deck is defective. So if it was tested before you got it you wouldn't be going thru all the bs and drama you have been going thru to get that damn thing to work.
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Things happen. It will all work out in the end.
Jason
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Wish I saw this thread sooner, I could have helped you out big time. I've fixed dozens of these at work.
First off, different OS's require different button panel firmware. Anything lower than I believe its 1653, will NOT load it's own firmware.
If you have the WMS usb test program, did you load the required .dll for newer firmware? You also have to reload the factory bootloader if you are downgrading from 3.2 down to 2.3. Also, the button controller board always has to have a higher version than the buttons, if you are downgrading.
When you are in the usb test comm program, and you go into the option for get f/w strap info, does it show 12 or 13 buttons? If it's 13, is the version the same across all?
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Every scenario showed 12 buttons...never 13. Big button never changed status from the flashing led in the lower right hand corner of the button.
Have a replacement panel coming Friday.
I'm going to do the following:
1. With the power off, I'm going to connect the new panel to the MPU with the USB cable and connect power to the backplane.
2. Insert clear card and power up the machine...when complete, power off.
3. Install a G+ Deluxe game card and H13.531_16G2 OS card.
4. Power on the game and hope for the best.
Everything should load automatically with this OS and the game should detect the OLED panel right?
Thanks,
Jason
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Oh, and the game is currently running fine with a standard panel. Have loaded 10 or so games with the H13.531_16G2 OS and SSSG-000-1490 OS Family H9.27. These are the only 2 operating systems that I use with all of my games. From what Rick said earlier, they appear to be the right ones.
Thanks,
Jason
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Yes, you should be good. The only thing I would add is that sometime the 16G2 OS will not work with some earlier games in the H13.x series. I don't know why, and I can't remember exactly which titles they were, although they have been few. I also know that certain monopoly games that use the Tsetse board as a fooler won't work with 16G2 either.
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The majority of the failures I see in those button panels is the repeat bet button. Those take the most abuse on our floor from patrons smacking them like it'll make the game win more often. Usually one of the surface mount solder joints on the board ends up cracking and either breaking circuit entirely or intermittently. It's the black 6 pin connectors on the board I'm referring to. Just heating up the solder with an iron so it'll reflow fixes it. Something you could try if you don't want to wait for the replacement panel and you're feeling adventurous.
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Ended up just being a large button swap. Panel and button firmware loaded right up when the new button was installed!
Yeah, it's a sexay piece of slot bling for sure!
Thanks,
Jason
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Guys, thanks again for all of the help. This topic was a great learning experience digging into the WMS diagnostics tool and understanding how button and panel FW interact with the games and MPU.
Cheers!
Jason
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Looks great Jason!
Glad you got it all figured out :yes:
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Now pop in some LOTR and give those buttons a workout! :cool_thumb_up:
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Matt, yeah, LOTR is really cool! I also dig the Zeus II spin button during the bonus!
Jason
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Curious...are the other LOTR games playable on an NXT2? Are they WAP?
Jason
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The original LOTR and LOTR Two towers I know work on bb2, the other one, I'm not sure. The 3 reel one works on a bb2 transmissive 3 reel machine, but it is a dongle game. Hard game to find complete.
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I ran across the post topic when trying to get an OLED panel working on a BB1
I had been at it for a week or more on and off as time allowed. My OLED panel was not documented as good and I had all types of error from communication errors to OLED version errors. I used the OSSG 1490 operating system and still got the same version errors. Changing firmware with the WMS flash program I reset the controller and buttons back to version 2.03 only to re-install the panel in the game to find the continuing version error. Placing the deck back on a computer with the diagnostic software I would find that the buttons no longer had any version flashed to them. It was like during boot-up the machine would clear the button images and not load anything after the delete.
It was this post below form jonm287 that cleared my issue
Also, the button controller board always has to have a higher version than the buttons, if you are downgrading.
I left the controller flashed with the 3.02 version and the buttons to 2.03 and my machine recognized the panel and booted up fine.
I would like to thank Rick Hunter and jonm287 for the assistance and wanted to post this here if anyone in the future is attempting to run a OLDE panel on a NTX1 system.
Thank you,
:applause: :hail: :dancing_2: :applause: