New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT PE and PE Plus Poker Games => Topic started by: packerfan444 on March 02, 2018, 08:39:44 PM
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Good Evening NLG Faithful,
I have a PE+ double double bonus draw poker machine from 1995. I was wondering if there was a way to have ALL of the jackpots paid in credits instead of "CALL ATTENDANT" ? This a 25 cent machine
:thank_you: :banghead:
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Have you tried pressing the white TEST button inside the machine to step thru the setup menu screens? There might be an option in there to do what you want.
(click image to enlarge)
(https://s9.postimg.org/5i5zyalen/pe_options.jpg)
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You can set your credit limit to 9999 and if you have a bill validator it can only be set to 2400.
If your credits are so high that the jackpot would cause it to go over 9999 then you will get a "call attendant".
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Thank you for your responses. This machine does have a bill validator. It works pretty good with the older bills. I have "played" with the self test pages but have not seen a page that allows the setting of credit limits. I'm sure I need to get more familiar with the machine options and how they are set. I have a couple of service/maintenance manuals for reference but they seem to be a little vague. Onward and upward!
:thank_you:
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Go Packers!.... next season.
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Make sure you have zero credits on the machine when trying to adjust the various credit and hopper limits. The adjustment screens will not appear in the self test menu if there are credits on the machine.
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:applause: Another great tip. :thank_you: Being the Ace Slot Tech that I am I have now figured out a way to never have to worry about hand pays because the hold/cancel buttons no longer work. Ive tried reset, off/on. It was working great. I must have set something wrong or toggled the key at the wrong time. Sure wish I could find the re-boot button. Gotta read my manuals.
GO PACK GO!! :yes:
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Read the section about button wiring. You will see that most buttons are wired in series.
If the first one in the string is bad the rest won't work.
Also note if the white test button is open a lot of buttons won't work.
You can go to the input test page with the white test button and see which buttons work.
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Thanks man,
It just seems funny that it was working fine until I started playing with the white button. When I go to the first page of the self test that shows all of the 0/1 indicators, The lights test works and the hold buttons light, but when I press a button there is no (1) indicator on all five of the buttons, yet the light test for all 5 works. I did notice something funny with the door open....I wiggled one of the connectors to the bill validator and it cycled like the power was just turned on. Could this be some sort of tilt causing the hold buttons not to work during play? I can deal, draw, cash out, put coins in, put bills in, just no holding of cards before the draw. :banghead:
Thank you to everyone for your help so far.
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Press the self test button once to get to the Self Test Inputs page where you see the 0s and 1s. If none of your hold buttons are working, look at the first (left) hold button wiring, and possibly to the button prior to that in the series. Check that you don't have any shorted wiring, stuck switches, etc. The next thing to check would be to see if the wires are attached in the correct order, but I don't know the wiring off the top of my head. I would suggest, too, gently jiggling the wiring as you try the hold buttons to see if you get any life out of them (ie the 0 changes to a 1 on the input test page).
There is no setting to disable the hold buttons, so you haven't messed anything up there -- more likely a loose wire that got moved as you opened and closed the door. Also, the lights are wired separately, so the fact that the lights work has no bearing on the actual switches working or not working.
If you can post a picture of your button wiring, we might be able to see if there's something amiss. The area of the furthest left hold button would be of most interest, as they are wired in series.
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:applause: :hail: Success!!!! Wiggling worked!!!!! I started by touching all of the button wires I could reach (couldn't get to the one behind the coin comparator).
I then tried the test button again, nothing, no (1/0 activity). I closed the door with the test screen still up and noticed the closed door activity was "flickering". I then pressed a hold button and saw the blessed "1" toggle. I tried the other hold buttons and Eureka! I'm sure the wiggling method will be needed in the future. I'm going to have to track down exactly which wire it is.
I was also able to clear the credits and set the hopper and credit limits. (have to hit some jackpots to see if this works) I tried to upload a picture but it didn't go thru. I'll try again.
Thank you knagl, badbaud, et al. for your help with this issue(s). This site rocks.
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Lets try this picture thing again. Resized. duh :duh:
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Well, that's overall good news. One of my PE+ machines is flaky with the switch wiring, too, and sometimes I need to give the wires a good jiggle to get wherever the bad connection is to make better contact. Chances are you may run into this again, but at least you'll have an idea where to start.
If you do decide to disconnect wires in the future to try and make better contact, I highly recommend documenting which color wires are connected where, and then only disconnecting one wire at a time so there's no danger of accidentally connecting the wrong wire to the wrong post of the switch. If you swap the order of wires on the switches, you can wind up with the remaining switches in the series not working properly. As such, it's very important to keep the order of the wires as they are now.
As far as the "flickering" of the door sensor in the Self Test Inputs screen, that's 100% normal when the door is closed -- the optical sensor for the door sends a rapid pulse, and the rapidly changing 1/0/1/0/1/0 etc. is how it should display on the screen when the door is closed and latched.