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**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Reel Games => Topic started by: RetroMan on April 05, 2018, 03:50:30 AM
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I'm a newbie here. Nice to meet you, from the Netherlands. Proud owner of a 1975 Bally pinball "Old Chicago", a home built arcade cab running MAME and several retro video consoles and cartridges, like Vectrex, Atari 2600 and Philips Videopac (US name Magnavox O2). I've just purchased a Bally 1000 model 1209 slot machine, with original Bally glasses. I have some questions and thought this was the place to ask them!
1) I was told this is a rare machine, mainly because a lot of the Bally glasses were exchanged for operator branded glasses and destroyed. Could someone confirm that, or give an opinion about the rarity of this model?
2) In the manual I found something about 2 tilt modes: SDS and Bally tilt modus, selectable by connecting a jumper between J1/20 and J3/28. In my machine, this jumper is not connected hence the machine is in SDS tilt modus. The difference between these modes is not documented (or I can't find it) in the manual. I've tried to connect the jumper but can't see any difference. Could someone elaborate on this?
3) I've read a few things about the readers in this machine. They are subject to aging and need cleaning / repairing. I know there are 2 types, 5vdc and 50 vdc. The readers in my machine are M 645 - 453. Are these 5 or 50v? Does someone know the parts that need replacement in case of a failure?
4) On the PSU board there is a diode (CR3) which is burnt black. However, I've tested the PSU and all 3 reference voltages are fine. Can this black diode cause any harm?
5) The chrome is not too bad, but could use some work. What is the best method and stuff to polish?
Many thanks!
RetroMan
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Hmmmm....
I was hoping to boost my posting count with this discussion, but up until now there haven't been too much opportunities to reply to;-)
Was it something I said?;-)
RetroMan
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Does the machine play and pay?
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Hi! Sure, working 100%! Can you advise?
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The 50VAC reel readers have light bulbs that light up and a large resistor on each one.
The 5VDC reel readers use IR readers and emitters and have a transistor on each one.
Don't worry about SDS, the game still plays and a 71 code means the same as a 50 code, door open.
If there is a SDS redundant door switch on the machine side, upper right, it can be removed, just cut the two wires off and leave them to dangle.
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Hi there, and thanks for replying!
Following the manual, code 71 means "inconsistent reel reading" and "reel moving while next reel has stopped" and this is exactly what happens on my machine. Any clue?
What is SDS mode, what is the difference with Bally mode and which mode is preferred?
I have visible light bulbs, so I guess 50 VAC. Do you know the exact replacement part properties for both the bulbs and the "light receivers" (which I read ought to be NPN photo transistors, but I do not know the exact type/number)?
Do you have any idea of the rarity of my machine? If it would be "ultra rare", I'd be happy to go an extra mile in the restoration process....
Thanks in advance!
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Not rare.
SDS = Slot Data System.
Do you own a casino? Do you track your customers playing habits via players cards? If not don't worry about those SDS codes.
Have you tried test 5 to see if your reel readers are reading correctly?
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Hi there,
Currently, I don't own a casino;-) So am I right that I should restore the jumper so the machine will be put in Bally mode?
R
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Do the jumpers or not, it doesn't affect play.
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Have you tried test 5 to see if your reel readers are reading correctly?
Yes. I tried test mode 5 and the numbers change when I move the reel, but I can only move them 1 position because the reels are locked. Is there a trick to unlock them?
With test mode 8 and door open, everything runs fine!! Do you have an idea why test mode 8 would be fine, and 'real' game mode with door closed immediately gives error 42?
R
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Pull the rounded lever in the back of each reel back all of the way and it will lock in place and the reel can spin freely.
42 is reel #2 error. try moving your reel reader left or right a little bit.
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Hi there,
I tried this but it doesn't work. And even when I swap the cables of reels 1 & 2, or 2 & 3, I get a 42 (not a 41 or 43). So the problem does not move with the wheel.
Also, I am CLUELESS on the fact that the system works perfectly in test mode #8. Spinning fine and correct readings of winning combinations on all 3 reels. What am I overseeing?
R
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Make sure the #2 reel is not contacting anything when the door is closed. I’ve seen the reel tins be eve shaped or wobble. This can cause it to contact the light fixture or the cover over the coin insert/accepted light. Another thing to do too is to oil the reel hub bearings. There is a small oil hole located on the aluminum center hub. I have a plastic bottle with a 12†long oiling tube. Bought it at my local hardware store. It’s a very light weight oil, and it only takes a few drops to do the trick. A reel reader will throw a code if the tell doesn’t spin at a certain RPM. If it’s too slow it will code. I would lean towards something rubbing on reel two causing your problem.
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Not rare.
Hi there, I know type 1000 by itself is not rare at all. There are plenty of them out there. But I can't find a single picture of mine. Could you elaborate a bit on your statement "not rare"[/size][size=78%]?[/size]
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Not rare at all.
I could send you a dropbox link to a bunch of files on the E series, manuals etc.
PM me with your email address.
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Were you able to clear or fix the error code 42?
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Pull the rounded lever in the back of each reel back all of the way and it will lock in place and the reel can spin freely.
42 is reel #2 error. try moving your reel reader left or right a little bit.
Hi there, that is not working for me (or I am doing it wrong). I can move those rounded levers back, but they don't lock in place. Can you guide me to doing it right?
R
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Were you able to clear or fix the error code 42?
I was about to proudly announce that I indeed managed to fix the error code. I even was planning on posting additional pictures because I also took a shot at the deep chrome scratches, and was very pleased about the result. I played and enjoyed the machine 2 evenings for several hours, without any error code.....
But at the end of evening 2 (yesterday), I suddenly got a #41 directly at spin start. I reset the machine and tried again. Same result, tilt + 41.
I didn't get the chance to look deeper in to it yet, but again I am a bit clueless so any help is appreciated (again!)!
R
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Not rare at all.
I could send you a dropbox link to a bunch of files on the E series, manuals etc.
PM me with your email address.
Again, BIG thanks for the docs. I will download them all tonight and PM you when finished.
Still, I can't find ANY picture of my 1000 with the Bally glasses. None. Zero. Been "everywhere" (this forum, eBay, Catawiki, Google images, several antique auction sites that list slot machines, local advertising websites that have 20 - 40 machines listed all the time, Facebook group "Antique slot machines", etc., etc.). Result zero. Could you explain what you mean by "not rare"? Do you own one (or more), or do you know people who own them? Any URL's I didn't find?
R
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The over all machine style is not rare. The belly glass belonged to one or a group of casinos. It’s not uncommon for a casino to swap in there glass on the machines used in there building.
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Look inside the reel mech where a lever gets pulled in when a reel solenoid is activated to stop a reel from spinning.
Those latches are mounted on a narrow black rod.
That rod should spin freely when you twist it with your fingers.
If it doesn't you need to lube under each latch to break up the old grease until the rod spins freely.
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The over all machine style is not rare. The belly glass belonged to one or a group of casinos. It’s not uncommon for a casino to swap in there glass on the machines used in there building.
Hi there, I think we are saying exactly the same thing! Make (E1000) and model (1209) are not rare at all, but due to the fact that many operators had the Bally glasses exchanged by their own logo glasses, makes the Bally glasses sparce. Up until now, I've seen none but mine.
I don't really care about rarity, as I bought it for keepers anyway. But the fact that it might be rare, might make me want to go an extra mile in restoration. That's why I'm so curious about it.
R
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Look inside the reel mech where a lever gets pulled in when a reel solenoid is activated to stop a reel from spinning.
Those latches are mounted on a narrow black rod.
That rod should spin freely when you twist it with your fingers.
If it doesn't you need to lube under each latch to break up the old grease until the rod spins freely.
Confirmed. Rod spins freely. All of a sudden, the reel error was gone and all played well. When I thought that error was gone, I de-greased the whole reel mechanism this weekend, and regreased/lubed the critical points following the manual. After reassembly, I had 2 nights of perfect gameplay without any error at all. At the end of night 2, a 71 error occured suddenly. I reset, and after that I get a 41 error at each spin attempt. I swapped reader 1 & 2, still error 41. I suspect a bad contact somewhere, could that be right? I fiddled a bit with the reader connectors and the reader board connectors, but no success. Where should I start looking?
R
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Does your game have a round cam behind the door lock that rotates and hits a small switch?
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Does your game have a round cam behind the door lock that rotates and hits a small switch?
Yes, it does. I assume you are referring to 1 of 2 door switches, the other being the one in the lower door hinge.
Something to look for over there?
R
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Cut the two wires off of the switch, strip the ends and wire nut them together.
You can remove the cam and switch and toss them.
When that switch goes bad it will randomly simulate the door opening and closing.
When this happens during a game you will get a 71 code.
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Cut the two wires off of the switch, strip the ends and wire nut them together.
You can remove the cam and switch and toss them.
When that switch goes bad it will randomly simulate the door opening and closing.
When this happens during a game you will get a 71 code.
Thanks again for your reply. Good morning from a sunny Holland. 29 celcius expected today!
OK, I will try that. Currently, I have a steady 41 directly after a pull.
When I open the door, the machine changes mode (when it's not tilted ofcourse) and when I close the door (after resetting an error 41 after tilt), code 50 is displayed. I assume that indicates the door switches are ok, but I'll try your suggestion nevertheless.
In test mode 8, with the door open, all in running fine. Isn't that strange?
R
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Not strange, normal, test 8 ignores the door open.
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Cut the two wires off of the switch, strip the ends and wire nut them together.
You can remove the cam and switch and toss them.
When that switch goes bad it will randomly simulate the door opening and closing.
When this happens during a game you will get a 71 code.
Hi there, tried this but no luck. I also measured both of the switches and they appear to be fine. The door cam switch is a 'make' contact and the hinge switch is a 'break' contact. Both switches work. I was already suspecting this, as the machine responds perfectly to door open/close situations. Still, there must be something wrong as in test mode 8 all is running perfectly. Also the fact that I had 2 nights of perfect play and a "permanent" error 41 all of a sudden, still makes me think it indeed has something to do with a bad contact or switch. If it was up to you, where would you look next?
R
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Again, cut the two wires off of the door cam switch and wire nut them together.
Don't trust your meter.
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I ALWAYS remove the door lock cherry switch. Noting but a headache. Are you sure that nothing is rubbing the reel when the door is closed.. The door wiring or metal shade over the reel light bulb or lower one over the insert and accepted lights. All it takes is a slight rub to slot the reel. Did you check the larger top cross shaft just under the reels to make sure those levers move. I have had them frozen to the shaft.
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Again, cut the two wires off of the door cam switch and wire nut them together.
Don't trust your meter.
OK, thanks. I'll ditch the meter. Had one single experience, many years ago, where a fuse measured OK and did not work when in circuit. I will perform the operation this afternoon and report back. That will be at a time when you are probably sound asleep;-)
R
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Again, cut the two wires off of the door cam switch and wire nut them together.
Don't trust your meter.
Tried this, no luck. Still a 41. In my previous post, I mentioned this is a "make" type circuit: It is closed when the switch is pushed down. However: When the cam closes the switch is released, hence the circuit is open when the door is closed. So I also tried running the game with the switch wires separate from each other. With exactly the same result, 41 directly at pull.
Where will I be looking next?
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I ALWAYS remove the door lock cherry switch. Noting but a headache. Are you sure that nothing is rubbing the reel when the door is closed.. The door wiring or metal shade over the reel light bulb or lower one over the insert and accepted lights. All it takes is a slight rub to slot the reel. Did you check the larger top cross shaft just under the reels to make sure those levers move. I have had them frozen to the shaft.
I checked all of this and everything seems to be running fine, mechanically-wise. The reels are spinning freely. As the machine tilts directly at pull, I can also check if the reels are spinning at more or less the same speed. And they do. The spin evenly and I can see a distance between the black metal shade over the reel light bulb. Also, test mode 8 is running perfect with the door open.
Where to look next?
R
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I ALWAYS remove the door lock cherry switch. Noting but a headache. Are you sure that nothing is rubbing the reel when the door is closed.. The door wiring or metal shade over the reel light bulb or lower one over the insert and accepted lights. All it takes is a slight rub to slot the reel. Did you check the larger top cross shaft just under the reels to make sure those levers move. I have had them frozen to the shaft.
I did some more checking and haven't got a clue. Still an error 41 directly after pull. I tried reel test 5 but I'm not sure what to look for exactly. I expected a unique (hexadecimal) value at each position, but that is not the case. With the wheels unlocked the values change, but don't seem to do this consistent. Could you explain what I should be looking for?
Thanks,
R
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Again, cut the two wires off of the door cam switch and wire nut them together.
Don't trust your meter.
As described before, I tried this without any luck. Still a 41 directly upon pulling.
But I'm also having a hard time understanding this. Maybe I'm misinterpreting something. There are 2 door switches in this machine. From what I understand, the MPU "thinks" the door is open when the hinge cherry switch is closed and the door cam lock microswitch is open. Is that assumption correct?
If that is correct, I think shorting the door cam lock would make the MPU "think" the door is open. Or am I overlooking something now?
Again, I've tried both open and closed without succes, but I'm also trying to learn from you guys so hopefully you can elaborate a bit on this. And perhaps you can guide me in a new direction in order to solve the 41?
Thanks!
R
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Again, cut the two wires off of the door cam switch and wire nut them together.
Don't trust your logic.
The door cam switch wires should be on the proper pins or door open / closed will be reversed, the MPU will be confused.
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Again, cut the two wires off of the door cam switch and wire nut them together.
Don't trust your logic.
The door cam switch wires should be on the proper pins or door open / closed will be reversed, the MPU will be confused.
Hi there, I already did this. The cam microswitch wires are directly connected with each other. The door hinge cherry switch is still original.
What to do next?
R
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Clear the machine with the test reset buttons on the hopper.
Stick your finger or a screwdriver inside the lower hinge and activate the door cam switch.
Flick the coin in wire down once then pull the handle. Do you still get a 41 code.
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Clear the machine with the test reset buttons on the hopper.
Stick your finger or a screwdriver inside the lower hinge and activate the door cam switch.
Flick the coin in wire down once then pull the handle. Do you still get a 41 code.
I manually triggered the cherry hinge door switch (indeed put and kept my finger in), with the cam switch shortened and the wires put together. I flicked the coin in wire and got a credit. Hitting it multiple times activates the multiplier (as intended). At pull, an error 41 immediately follows...
Any ideas?
R
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Does test 8 still work with the door open?
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Do all three reel just spin and don’t lock when this happens?
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Do all three reel just spin and don’t lock when this happens?
That is correct. TILT is lit and the reels keep spinning until their movement fades. Resetting or power toggling the machine locks the reels again.
Any ideas?
R
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Does test 8 still work with the door open?
Yes, test 8 fully works with door open. Including proper reel reading: When in test 8 a winning combination is spun, the number of coins to be paid is displayed.
That is why I still think this must be "something small", but I can't find the logic behind it (yet) which makes me crazy. I really appreciate your help so far and I truly hope you can guide me to a working machine.
Did you read my post about the reel reading?
Do you have any other suggestions?
R
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Where are you located? Just looked on your profile for your location..Drive me crazy when profile are not filed out complete with that information.
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Where are you located? Just looked on your profile for your location..Drive me crazy when profile are not filed out complete with that information.
I wasn't aware of that, but I did introduce myself including my country in the OP;-) I will fill it out tonight. I am in The Netherlands... Europe...
R
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Sorry for the rant :soapbox_3: I was looking to see where you lived. Maybe be someone lived near you that could help in person. I myself doing hundred of these, I think that you either have a bad kick or arm switch on the reel assembly or still have a problem with the reel one linkages. You could try reversing the kick and arm switches, but be aware that they are wired differently, so take a picture with a phone for a reference. Have you ever posted a picture on your machine?
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Sorry for the rant :soapbox_3: I was looking to see where you lived. Maybe be someone lived near you that could help in person. I myself doing hundred of these, I think that you either have a bad kick or arm switch on the reel assembly or still have a problem with the reel one linkages. You could try reversing the kick and arm switches, but be aware that they are wired differently, so take a picture with a phone for a reference. Have you ever posted a picture on your machine?
I see from your profile that you are a true Bally fan, like myself. That's the reason why I came to this place in the first time, hoping to meet specialists like you. Over here, I can't find any. And I did a LOT of research to find one. I do have a renowned pinball repair shop nearby, but they are only doing modern pinballs (solid states and newer) and some arcades. Slot machines are much more sparse than pinballs over here. By the way, pinball is becoming a hype in The Netherlands.
So far you and Badbaud are the only two people I've met that have knowledge about these babies. So I really hope we can work some more together in order to get mine back running again. I'd love to see it standing side by side my Bally Old Chicago, which will come back from a full professional restoration job next week.
I posted 1 picture of my machine, but of course I can post a lot more. Do you prefer any specific details that would help in finding the problem?
R
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Sorry for the rant :soapbox_3: I was looking to see where you lived. Maybe be someone lived near you that could help in person. I myself doing hundred of these, I think that you either have a bad kick or arm switch on the reel assembly or still have a problem with the reel one linkages. You could try reversing the kick and arm switches, but be aware that they are wired differently, so take a picture with a phone for a reference. Have you ever posted a picture on your machine?
I will look into the kick and arm switches tomorrow. The machine worked perfectly for 2 nights in a row, then all of a sudden the 41 came up. Is it possible that these switches can create this problem just out of nothing?
What would you say about the comment on the test mode 8? Is it logical that everything is working fine on this mode?
R
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I’ve seen them do some pretty weird things. Switches will just stop working.. It’s possible there is a problem with the door hinge switch and wiring. The door switch and lock switch are wired in the same circuit. I like to eliminate the door wiring out of the loop so the machine only uses the hinge switch. If your machine is in test 8, does the test clear and show 50 000 in the win meter when you close the door?
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I’ve seen them do some pretty weird things. Switches will just stop working.. It’s possible there is a problem with the door hinge switch and wiring. The door switch and lock switch are wired in the same circuit. I like to eliminate the door wiring out of the loop so the machine only uses the hinge switch. If your machine is in test 8, does the test clear and show 50 000 in the win meter when you close the door?
Yep, test mode 8 is ended when I close the door. Upon closing, 50 000 shows on the win meter.
What does this tell us?
R
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Just that your hinge switch’s works
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Just that your hinge switch’s works
Ok. I'll look into the other switches tonight. Any other things to look out for?
R
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Sorry for the rant :soapbox_3: I was looking to see where you lived. Maybe be someone lived near you that could help in person. I myself doing hundred of these, I think that you either have a bad kick or arm switch on the reel assembly or still have a problem with the reel one linkages. You could try reversing the kick and arm switches, but be aware that they are wired differently, so take a picture with a phone for a reference. Have you ever posted a picture on your machine?
np, I've filled out the profile;-) And here are some photo's!
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A few comments to the photo's.
20180425_202559r: The connectors to this relais are loose, and have been loose all the time (so also when the machine was working). What is the purpose of this relais? Should I reconnect it?
20180425_202702r: Mysterious loose connector. No contra connector within the reach of its cable. What is it for?
20180425_202713r: Black diode D3. PSU voltages measure OK; should I do something about it?
20180425_204330r: Loose grey wire (one side from the jumper that determines SDS or Bally error mode). Currently the machine is in SDS mode. Should I leave it that way?
20180425_203009r: The machine tilts directly after pull. Error code 41. Swapping reel reader cables doesn't help (still error 41). With the door open, in test mode 8, everything works fine and also the reels are read correctly.
Any suggestion to fix this is welcome!
R
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Sorry for the rant :soapbox_3: I was looking to see where you lived. Maybe be someone lived near you that could help in person. I myself doing hundred of these, I think that you either have a bad kick or arm switch on the reel assembly or still have a problem with the reel one linkages. You could try reversing the kick and arm switches, but be aware that they are wired differently, so take a picture with a phone for a reference. Have you ever posted a picture on your machine?
Last night I checked the kick and arm switches. They measure OK. Also I checked the timing by moving the pull lever very slowly and measuring both switches. All seems working like described in the manual.
I DID discover a problem in test mode 8: The reels are not always read correctly. Sometimes a win does not lead to the number of coins to be paid out displayed on the win meter, and in that case "winner paid" is not lit. But sometimes a win IS read correctly and I can't pinpoint it down to a single reel. And I don't know how to reproduce it.
Does this point in a certain direction?
R
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Go to test 5, write the number seen for reels 1 through 3.
turn power off.
Swap the reel reader connectors for reels 1 and 2.
Go back to test 5, see if the numbers have swapped their 1 and 2 positions on the display or if 1 is different.
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Go to test 5, write the number seen for reels 1 through 3.
turn power off.
Swap the reel reader connectors for reels 1 and 2.
Go back to test 5, see if the numbers have swapped their 1 and 2 positions on the display or if 1 is different.
Hi there,
Done, and they are different. With the connectors in correct order they read (1)401 and with connector 1 & 2 swapped I got (1)031. What does this tell us?
R
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One of the optic transistors in a reel reader is weak or defective.
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One of the optic transistors in a reel reader is weak or defective.
All 15 transistors were recently replaced by new ones. Is it possible to measure with a multimeter which one is fault? How?
R
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Not really. The closest thing you can try is to put a Ohm meter across the leads of one and hold it up to a bright light to see how much of a swing you get.
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easiest way - remove the P1 or M7 eprom.
turn power on - display will show 654321 flashing - press the test button to get into the 5 test.
the display will show the the position number of the reel - 1 thru 22 for 22 stop for example
move the reel thru all 22 stops - you should be able to find position 1 and as you move thru each position any change will tell you which resistor is failing using hex math - pos 1 on the reel equal pos 1 on the reader - 2 is position 2 - pos 3 is 1 and 2 on the reader. pos 4 is 3 on reader and pos 5 is 1 and 3
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 and you get 1 0 1 4 5 4 6 8 indicates that reel reader 2 is not working
this only tells you which position on the reader is not reading - can be wire harness too - so don't go and repair the board.
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Not really. The closest thing you can try is to put a Ohm meter across the leads of one and hold it up to a bright light to see how much of a swing you get.
I did that. Dark = no conduction, lit = conduction within 5k - 10k ohm range. I measured this on al new transistors, and on a selection of the transistors that came from the board. So I guess the transistors are OK. Do you agree?
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easiest way - remove the P1 or M7 eprom.
turn power on - display will show 654321 flashing - press the test button to get into the 5 test.
the display will show the the position number of the reel - 1 thru 22 for 22 stop for example
move the reel thru all 22 stops - you should be able to find position 1 and as you move thru each position any change will tell you which resistor is failing using hex math - pos 1 on the reel equal pos 1 on the reader - 2 is position 2 - pos 3 is 1 and 2 on the reader. pos 4 is 3 on reader and pos 5 is 1 and 3
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 and you get 1 0 1 4 5 4 6 8 indicates that reel reader 2 is not working
this only tells you which position on the reader is not reading - can be wire harness too - so don't go and repair the board.
OK, I will perform this tonight and report back. Thanks!
R
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easiest way - remove the P1 or M7 eprom.
turn power on - display will show 654321 flashing - press the test button to get into the 5 test.
the display will show the the position number of the reel - 1 thru 22 for 22 stop for example
move the reel thru all 22 stops - you should be able to find position 1 and as you move thru each position any change will tell you which resistor is failing using hex math - pos 1 on the reel equal pos 1 on the reader - 2 is position 2 - pos 3 is 1 and 2 on the reader. pos 4 is 3 on reader and pos 5 is 1 and 3
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 and you get 1 0 1 4 5 4 6 8 indicates that reel reader 2 is not working
this only tells you which position on the reader is not reading - can be wire harness too - so don't go and repair the board.
Hello there, I found two things, hope you can make something out of it!
1) I did as you said: Removed M7 EPROM, turned on, display flashing 654321 and went into test mode 5. After that the display showed 0000.. for a second and after that it shows .1...1 and I can get this changed ONLY by moving reel 1. I have seen .1... When moving reel 2 or reel 3 I do NOT see any change in these numbers. I tried swapping the reel reader cables of reel 1 and 2; after that, I couldn't seem to change the reading at all.
2) In test 3, "switch test", I notice that all switches are registered EXCEPT the hopper counter switch. The switch by itself measures OK. Also, when I disconnect the 2 wires from the switch and manually make (or break) contact, this is not registered by the machine. To be really sure there is something wrong there, I ran test 4 "hopper test" which should pay 10 coins. This test fails, paying coins until the hopper almost runs empty, resulting in tilt.
I hope you can give the magic formula to solve it now, or another thing to look for. Many thanks in advance again!
R
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Could be some bad input chips on the I/O board or corroded pins on the header or plug.
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didn't give all the info - yes you will get a "1" in the left most meter that shows reel 1 - then the 1 on the right is reel position - moving the reel will increment the numbers 1......1 1.......2 etc
to go to reel 2 you actuate the coin switch until you get the 2 in the left most - repeat to get to reel 3.
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Could be some bad input chips on the I/O board or corroded pins on the header or plug.
Not only the hopper counter switch fails, also some of the DIP switches (position 2, 4) are not read.
I got a tip to swap U7 and U8 (both N8T28N) but then I got error 100000. I swapped them back, now the display doesn't read 500000 but xxxx00 (without the x's).
I guess we're on to something but where to look next?
R
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didn't give all the info - yes you will get a "1" in the left most meter that shows reel 1 - then the 1 on the right is reel position - moving the reel will increment the numbers 1......1 1.......2 etc
to go to reel 2 you actuate the coin switch until you get the 2 in the left most - repeat to get to reel 3.
Currently I can't do this test because of the display reading xxxx00.
Assuming the reader test without the EPROM installed was OK, what would be the next thing to do?
R
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The over all machine style is not rare. The belly glass belonged to one or a group of casinos. It’s not uncommon for a casino to swap in there glass on the machines used in there building.
Yep, I got confirmed that because of this, the production number of Bally brand glasses was low. And a lot of the Bally glasses that did make it to the public got destroyed when the machine got a second life with another operator, or on some fair. The only occurance of the glasses of my machine so far are the ones printed in the manual.... Seems to be rare as hens teeth.
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Could be some bad input chips on the I/O board or corroded pins on the header or plug.
Not only the hopper counter switch fails, also some of the DIP switches (position 2, 4) are not read.
I got a tip to swap U7 and U8 (both N8T28N) but then I got error 100000. I swapped them back, now the display doesn't read 500000 but xxxx00 (without the x's).
I guess we're on to something but where to look next?
R
Yihaa! Replaced U7 and U8 and now I have a working machine!
R
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On what board did these get replaced??
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On what board did these get replaced??
They were replaced on the MPU board.
One hour after replacement, the machine gave me back kudo's for repairing it;-) See photo;-)
R
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On what board did you Replaced U7 and U8?
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On what board did these get replaced??
They were replaced on the MPU board.
One hour after replacement, the machine gave me back kudo's for repairing it;-) See photo;-)
R
So. I have been playing my wonderful Bally for exactly a week, and I've played it quite intensively. I noticed something that I didn't notice before: The machine is teasing. It presents combinations like 7, 7 and red cherry (making you think for an instance that it's 3 7's); or BAR BAR and the 3rd BAR a position above or below the winline. And so on. I guess the players here know what I mean.
Now I am curious: How does this machine determine its wins? I had one guy (the seller) telling me it's random, and that the global payout percentage is determined by the personality prom + the choice of reel tapes. He was quite convinced about that. One other guy told me it's 100% CPU calculated, and the teasing is part of that. Following his story, the CPU determines the reel stop.
Could someone reveal the truth?
R