New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S2000 and Vision Games => Topic started by: Trisail on May 30, 2018, 08:39:05 PM
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I bought a used IGT Triple Diamond Deluxe. It looks like it is an S2000. Got it without the keys at first. Was able to open the door and got it up and running. Got the keys a few days later.
1st thing that came up was 'RAM Error', got it reset and got 'NON-RECOVERABLE DATA ERROR'. Ordered the Clear 97 and Key 17, and was able to use them to get the unit running and looked like it worked.
Played it a bit and here's what works so far >
All lights but one candle lamp, all displays work, coin comparator works and it takes 1, 2 or 3 coins, all front panel buttons work, the reels spin correct and the payouts look correct, counters all work and most of what else I can see looks OK.
What's not working that I know of so far >
Hopper appears to not have power, no sound, but the solenoid for the stop works, the bill acceptor appears to not have power.
I was able to do some of the setup and got into the I/O test sections and such. So far no sound, no hopper and no bill acceptor working. One candle lamp is burnt out and I will replace it. I checked the power supply (MCP-8011) and the 13 VDC and the 25 VDC are good and the ripple on both are < 5 mV AC, no bad caps. I am going to check the wiring for the sound, hopper and bill acceptor.
So far what I know about the sound. The speakers do appear to be OK, I get a pop when I power up. No response from sound test, cycles through the sounds but nothing out of the speakers. Not much else on the sound yet.
No hopper noise when turned on or any response from the hopper test. The hopper appears as if it will function, I will check the PCB for obvious problems then need to put it on the bench and get power to it to test it.
The bill acceptor >
No light on the green bezel. No noise when the unit is turned on. The bill door micro switch is not hooked up, the wires appear to be removed, not sure if they were disconnected from the 3 wire connector hanging behind the box. The cashbox switch in the rear is disconnected, don't see the wires there either, looks like there should have been some spade connectors hanging behind it for the switch. I did see a green and a blue wire are shorted and have heat shrink on them in the wire harness leading away from the box.
Here is a picture of the machine. I can post others as needed. Suggestions appreciated.
I am still searching for wiring diagrams and/or schematics for the machine, none found yet. Was hoping to be able to do some NLG File System downloading, but appears I don't have the right access. Looks like I am in the right place for getting help with my new toy.
Thanks in advance.
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.......Was hoping to be able to do some NLG File System downloading, but appears I don't have the right access. Looks like I am in the right place for getting help with my new toy.
Thanks in advance.
Here is an explanation of the website user levels. When you post a message there will be an graphic or icon to the left of your message, a little below your username, that shows your user level.
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=45.msg308#msg308 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=45.msg308#msg308)
I think your S2000 machine has a TEST button inside (the S+ does) that will let you get into the built-in testing routines. That will let you test all the inputs and outputs, hopper, lights, etc.
To download files or to post items for sale in the Classifieds area requires a donation to the NLG website. The donation can be anything reasonable, small or large, all are appreciated. On the Home page, left side of the screen is information about doing that. Look for the panel shown below:
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Thanks for the info rokgpsman.
Power was getting to the hopper in the machine. I was able to bench test the hopper by applying power and simulating the drive signals, safety and brake. Still would not run. Checked the signals and looked like they were good from input to driver, but no run. I shorted power to the driver out B pin and it ran. I blew the driver with some more testing. Ordered a couple of the drivers, they should be in next week. Also will replace U1 (CD4093) just because.
Checked the signals for the sound chip (YM2413), op amps and driver. Did not see any change on any of the pins while I was in the sound test menu. Even though the sounds are quick, I will assume I should see a slight change, nothing on any of them. Ordered a couple of the sound chips and they should be in next week.
Fiddled with the bill accepter but no testing yet. I will probably get to that after the hopper and sound are working.
Found some prints and info online for most of the machine.
Later
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What you have is a "Vision Ready" series. It was an early s-2000 that you could put a LCD monitor in and have bonus games. The sound actually did not come from the MPU it came from the LCD monitor which was hooked to the speakers. There was not a inline amp in the Vision Ready Series. If whoever you got this from did use the correct harness and take the LCD Screen out then you could use the inline amp and have sound. Can you post pictures of the top box without the glass and the inside of the machine?
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Chris, thanks for the info. I hope with the MPU PCB and chips I can get the sound to work. May need an AMP PCB?
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Top
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Connectors and Number
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MPU PCB
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Chips
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ok.. well for sound you will need this. This one has the harnesses with it. It will plug in behind the right speaker in the topbox and then run to the amp and then to the speakers. look behind the Right Speaker if you are looking at the machine and there should be the connectors on the topbox
https://www.ebay.com/itm/IGT-S2000-SOUND-AMP-BOARD-WITH-WIRE-HARNESS/161876999685?hash=item25b09efe05:g:zzMAAOSwlaxWN3Zk:sc:USPSPriorityMailSmallFlatRateBox!31329!US!-1 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/IGT-S2000-SOUND-AMP-BOARD-WITH-WIRE-HARNESS/161876999685?hash=item25b09efe05:g:zzMAAOSwlaxWN3Zk:sc:USPSPriorityMailSmallFlatRateBox!31329!US!-1)
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Great thanks Chris. Ordered it and will see how it goes. Looking inside the top from the front it looks like the connectors are behind the Left speaker. Looks like I just need to mount the AMP PCB and plug 3 of the connectors into the connector plate, and the other 2 into the speakers.
Looks like I will have time to work on the Bill accepter while I wait for all the parts for the hopper and sound. I will post some pics of the BV and stuff. You any good at BV's?
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No I don't mess with BV a lot. There is a lot of members on here that does though. I would first get your I/O cards situated where you burnt them out. Solve 1 problem at a time. :)
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This is a very early S2000. Notice the speakers. Not ear's. Cabinet is not made for amp. board to attach, no mounts. Have you gone into your settings for sound? Using a S+ SS chip changes a few things too. S2000 TD Deluxe is SB100215 for 3 coin. Not sure about your reel strips
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I have done the settings and sound tests, no sound. I have not seen any other sound setting in the menus to enable or disable the sound, just the reel, stop and game sounds. I noticed the mounting holes for the AMP PCB are not there, from other pictures it looks like it should mount behind the right speaker. Not sure what you mean yet by using S SS chip. I'm not sure what the numbers/labels on the Eproms on my MPU PCB represent yet, they appear to be copies. I found a pic online of the S reels and the S reel Eprom is SS6291 mine is SS6292. I can get the numbers off the reels if it is important. They appear to be the correct ones from looking around the web. If the sound AMP and harness look like they will plug in OK I will try that. I'll check the mating connectors and try to trace the wires back to see if I can tell where they are coming from and what they may be for. I am getting the impression this machine may have been pieced together? Thanks again for the information.
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The machine at one point probably had a monitor in it for the Vision games. Hence the Vision Ready. The sound and power came out of the LCD monitor to the speakers. Because you do not have a monitor and are using it similar to a s2000 you will have to rewire it like an s2000. The Vision Ready series did not have an amp, but you are not using it like a Vision Ready machine. I noticed they sliced and diced the speaker harness to the topbox. That may be your problem with sound
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Thanks ChrisColumbus. I am hoping the AMP and harness is what I need to rewire it like an S2000. The splice on the speaker wires was put in to use both speakers from one signal. I assume because the left speaker was all that was supposed to work on the S2000 without stereo. The connector in the back has been modified, the two wires in the plug that are cut go to a connector on the other side that is not hooked up, assuming that they were for the right speaker? The 2 wires that do go to both the speakers are hooked up and go into the wire harness back to the MPU I believe. Haven't ohm'd them out yet to see if they go to the MPU sound output pins, they appear to be the right color for the speaker wires. I'll do all that when the AMP PCB gets here.
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You will have to get power to the sound amp board. It's not just going to plug into the topbox anywhere because it was not designed to. I believe you can make a harness and use the 12pin in the top box but I do not have a wiring schematic to confirm. The lcd was actually hooked up to that connector. Someone may be able to tell you the right pins that you can use power from. I know there are schematic diagrams on here somewhere also. You have a huge job ahead of you if you want it to run like an s2000... :)
Therockinelvis may know what they are connected to right now in the top box. I know the LCD has its own built in amp so the sound would come out of the LCD to the speakers. Im not 100 sure if where they are plugged in right now is enough power if needed. He probably knows.
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I thought I wanted it to run like an S2000. I figured it would work and play when I got it. It does work like a slot machine should, it takes coins, the buttons work and the reels work and payout correct. Can I assume the BV will work? The hopper should work also I would think. I know I need to replaced the driver IC on the hopper and the other IC, but should it have worked anyway? I would like to get the sound to work, without an LCD. If it would be easier with an LCD I can look into that.
I got it with the idea of modifying it to work and payout anyway I would like. I wanted to get it working correct before I start the modding. It is not imperative to get it fully functional but the reason for that was in case I decided to sell it later it would be worth more working properly with the original IGT components. Which it seems now that would include the LCD and possibly other components. Thanks for all the info, it is greatly appreciated.
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Right now your machine is working like an S+. It is using a generic SB00100 and a S+ SS chip. No big deal, we do that so that the SS will match the reel strips. You will need to get 12vdc to the amp board. Here is a picture of it. The place on the left is where the sound signal will come from to get to the amp. You will not have to worry about a power dist. board. Only need that for topper, top box printer, etc. Red, black/red 12vdc. Orange, orange/black 24vdc
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Sounds good. Thanks for the pic. I'll let you know how it goes when the parts are in.
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the rockinelvis, I got the Inline Amp PCB and harness. It hooked up plug and play. I got the 13 VDC power to it, (not 12 VDC, figured it should be fine, that is what is on the wiring print), input connector hooked up, output to speakers but still no sound. I have sound chips coming, will replace that and see what I have then. Used the PDF from forum I found in a post to verify wiring 1st. Used your picture of the Amp PCB.
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Yes, your right 13vdc and 25vdc in S2000. What "sound chips" are you talking about?
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I ordered 3 of the YM2413 chips. There is one on the CPU PCB (U66) that supplies the sound to the machine. Bought 3 for future use. I checked the sound circuit on may 31st and did not see any change on any of the pins from the sound chip to the edge connector that sends the sound to the speakers with my DVM. I figured even with the DC and AC checks I should of at least observed a slight change in voltage when I did the sound test. I know the signals are small voltage changes and short in duration but I saw nothing. Anyway, they should be here soon, couple days at most.
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I don't believe that will help. I am going to give you some great advice. Remove that Green Varta battery asap. They are famous for leaking and killing the board. Just clip it off at the legs. It is what gives the "door m open" error
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You are right, the sound chip did not help. The Varta battery is good and not leaking and the PCB shows no signs of leaking. I de-soldered and removed it as I saw I don't need it for home use. I just did the clear chip a couple times and tried to make sure my settings are correct.
Every time I power up the machine I get the Display Passes Self Test, Display's NETPLEX link is down, Restart and the machine works.
After looking in the forum a lot more this is probably not good and would have been helpful if I had mentioned it before. Newbie, and learning tons. :nerd: :no: :Scratch-Head: oops
I'm pretty sure I should not see this, but all the displays are working and test OK. The BV is enabled. The Hopper, BV and Sound don't work. Do I just have a bad MPU? The machine plays OK? Seems like everything else is working?
No sound. No sound when testing sound in the menu. Sound chip did not help.
I am able to do the Auto-configure Netplex devices after the clear chip and the BV is enabled, and I can hear a slight click. Sounds like a real quick motor/gear sound but nothing else. Next step is Spectrum Display: Not Responding. I think that is the LCD that is not installed in top box. I think that is correct - not responding.
I do the Tokenization mode and the only that shows up is - Token Value(credits) : 001 From what I have seen here on the forum and documents this is where I am supposed to be able to enable the hopper. Not an option. I can not do anything more when in the Token Mode except see the value as just stated. the Credit and Cash out buttons are not illuminated.
I have the Credit mode set at - Player Initiated (Non-Credit). I can set that to the other modes.
When I am in the Test mode in the menu and try to do the Hopper Test, turn the Reset key, it just says Coin Payout 0. I can do the Input Tests and the Output Tests and many test work. No tests of the Hopper work. (input) Hopper Motion Detect, (output) Hopper Brake, hopper Safety, Hopper Direction. Nothing happens when I press the Spin Button, nothing changes on the display. When I do the BV tests, it says test bill and alternates with bill door closed. The BV door test shows 0/1 so I believe the jumper is working.
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Did you key chip after Clear?
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=320.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=320.0)
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Yep
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It should not detect a spectrum display. That is a progressive device that would be hooked up to netplex if it had it. That is correct for it not to detect it. I wouldn't think it should say "Not Responding" it shouldn't detect it at all.
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So far that's what I got. I'm wondering if I have a bad MPU. I removed the BV unit, but it looks like it still tries to install it. Will leave it out and clear/key it again. Not sure really what to do next. Thinking I should get advise on getting an enhanced PCB and chip set and sound simm if that's the best way to move forward. I can try to fix the original PCB later. Maybe just need a different MPU, but figure if I need to get the 363 chip instead of the 048's maybe I just find a good deal on a complete PCB and chip set. Any thoughts would be great.
Thanks again for the help.
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When you first turn on the machine does the BV cycle for about 5 or 6 seconds? It should if power is hooked to it properly. If it does not try removing the MPU board and then turn on the power with no MPU and see if the BV cycles when you first power it up. If it does the MPU may have a problem. If it does not the BV or the connections to it are suspect.
Rich
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Nothing out of the BV when powered up, green lighted bezel, no sound. When I get into the menu and do the Auto-configure Netplex devices after the clear chip and the BV is enabled, and I can hear a slight click. Sounds like a real quick motor/gear sound but nothing else.
Nothing with the PCB out of the machine and powered up.
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Cashbox must be in place and firmly seated. There is either a problem with the wiring or the BV transport needs to be replaced. Gear motor sound should last for at least 5 seconds. Pictures of BV transport with numbers would help
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Cashbox is in correct. Here are the pics of the numbers on the BV.
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2nd
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Here is a not so good pic of BV wiring. I can do better if needed.
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Have you tried reseating the plugs going to the backplane board? A picture of the backplane connections would help also.
Please don't take what I'm about to say the wrong way. I know you are a tech used to troubleshooting to the part level but remember these machines are simple and complex at the same time. Until you gain enough experience on "how" the machine is "supposed" to operate I would stick to replacing full components like I/O cards, BVs. MPUs. etc. Parts are still cheap enough for these. I used to do the same thing. What is a better value, buying a $25 part and taking a half hour of my time or buying a $2 transistor and spending 8 hours of set up and troubleshooting time? Also I'm not sure some of the choices you made when you Clear/keyd this machine aren't causing some of your issues. Much better to get it all working, then being able to take measurements on the working hardware, and then going back and fixing the broken ones at the component level for spares.
Also if you want to get the most out of the S2000 capabilities I would ditch the SS and reel S+ chips and move to S2000 SB and SG chip
sets.
SB100215
SG000363
VS011GX0 many others also
Rich
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Rich. Your advice is greatly appreciated. I have thought about just what you mention.
I have a friend that has a Triple Triple Diamond. We were talking and he mentioned it would be great if he could change the probability payouts of the machine so it would pay something fun a little more often. I checked the web for information on that subject. Looked like a few people wanted the same thing. I thought I can do that, how hard could it be LOL.
My original purpose/thinking for purchasing a working/nonworking slot machine are as follows.
Get one to modify - take out the IGT MPU PCB. Install my electronics so I can make the machine do anything I want. Control all the components with the existing wiring as much as possible. Be able to put all the original IGT parts back in, in case I want to get out and resell the machine. Sounds like a plan.
Did very little research before I purchased the machine. Basically I checked prices for working and not so working machines. Figured I would get a Triple Triple Diamond so I could use his working machine and compare against the one I would get, plus if I got into trouble messing with it I would have a spare to troubleshoot with. As I said, very little research, so I found out there are a lot of Triple Double Deluxe Haywire Diamond thingies out there. I saw a "good looking" Triple Diamond Deluxe (close enough) without keys and purchased it without ever opening it up. It did power up, but no VFD output (display) or any other noise. I figured it was worth about $125 if I parted it out and all the parts were in it. I took a chance, I didn't know anything about the models of the IGT uprights, they looked the same to me. Probably sounds pretty familiar to about 99% of the newbies as I have spent a lot of time on here and the web. And I'm sure any veteran slot people are reading this and thinking, yep here goes another newbie slot enthusiast and he's in for a ride.
I get home and have an old key lying around and I was able to open the main door and look inside. Cool, looks like everything is here. The VFD is just unplugged, great plug it in and good to go... (thinking to myself, maybe this machine is not working and the guy I got it from, and possibly a trail of others behind him and the info about the machine just got lost in the transactions and now I have it). The display shows, RAM ERROR and NON-RECOVERABLE DATA ERROR after a bit of messing around. Started my research on slot machines and found out a lot about the one I purchased and model differences and all the good stuff. Still a bit confused/ignorant about most of it but was able to muddle through. I bought the recommended clear 97 and key 17 chips for the S2000 model. Using the info I found on how to clear the RAM ERROR, I got the machine "playing" in an hour or two. It worked! Fantastic!
No sound, no problem, just a blown speaker or wire/connection problem, I mean it's working the lights come on, it takes quarters, the reels spin, if you hit, it pays credits, it's working! Hit the cash out button, nothing, no hopper noise, no spitting of quarters, nothing but a hopper tilt. No problem just reset the machine and get the hopper working. Probably just a power or wiring issue, maybe the hopper is just flat broken. But the machine is working! Hum, not just a simply reset or door thingy. Better do some research. Yep, it's a clear/key thing. OK, I've done that. The BV does not seem to light up, later, I don't carry cash so I'll deal with that later. The machine is working...
So now I have some info from some of the NEWLIFE forum people. I'm learning I have a VISION READY machine, kinda rare, cool for me, maybe bad for parts and knowledge. Maybe it was just thrown together with a bunch of bad parts and sold to some people who want to get into working on slot machines, and I'm the next in line. LOL
So now, back to your advise. Reseating the plugs - check. I can do a pic too.
Did not want to buy the full components, at first. Figured as you mentioned I can fix the bad parts. Found out the friend's TRIPLE TRIPLE DIAMOND is probably an S or S , MPU PCB is different. Still have not verified that yet, but it's not a VISION READY or S2000. So much for having a spare to work with.
I decided, he likes my machine, it's cooler. I don't care which slot machine I do my mod on. I'm planning on being able to do all the IGT's eventually. I'll get mine working and swap out with his and we both benefit. He plays my cool machine and I start the mod on his. Sounds like a plan.
I'm not completely comfortable with the CLERA/KEY procedure at all yet. I can get it done, but like I have read, it takes a few times. I know I'm not sure if I have all the settings correct. I think I have enough of the right settings to get the sound, hopper and BV set, that is if the units were working they should work. I could use a definitive list of the absolute right settings for my machine... reading the S2000 menu cards (the S is totally different so I know mine does not act like that in the menu setup), my machine follows a lot of them in the right order but I'm still learning, trying to understand NETPLEX, Tokenization, Credits, Communication.
So here is where I am at this point in time.
Looked on eBay for game chips, Enhanced/Upgraded 504 PCB and anything else that I would need to get my machine working the best it can. I'm not sure which PCB to purchase, I sent a PM to Jim @ Midwest asking his advise and his availability on parts, he recommended the 363 chip(s).
Here is what I am looking at: Upgrade 504 PCB with sound board and simm 024 (one eBay item), 363 chips 1 and 2, VS011NX5 version chip (another eBay item). Not sure if I would need any harnesses or other parts, so info on that one way or the other would be appreciated.
I already purchased the in-line amp and harness, but still no sound. I replaced the YM2413 sound chip on the PCB, still no sound. I installed the new driver IC in the hopper, still does not work. I have not tried to bench test again, that's why I needed the new Hopper driver IC. I know what I did and what I need to do to bench test it, but I'm at the point I believe this machine just had a few (many) bad parts. Maybe it just didn't work, and the info was lost in the previous owners. Don't want to sound like someone is pawning off machines.
As you mentioned, I should ditch the SS and S chips and get the S2000 SB and SG chip, thanks for that info. I have tried going through the list here on the forum but I am still confused on what chips are in there. I got some info from others suggesting they are clones and would work, but do not know much else.
So far I figure I have done as much as I can with component troubleshooting with my minimum knowledge of how the sound circuit, hopper and BV are supposed to work. I've decided I'm in this project for the long haul and the least expensive slot machine purchase thing has gotten to the point that I need to get mine working the best it can, I am now going to keep it forever (modified I hope, and able to put it back to IGT original if needed?) If it costs $300 or more in parts, so be it.
FYI, I paid $160 for this one basically sight unseen, I know it powered up but took a chance the parts were inside and they were LOL.
I have a different view on money spent and time invested - I do gamble, if you haven't figure that out already, I do win but am not ahead in the long run by any means (which I'm sure we all know), so anything that keeps me away from the casino or online is cheaper entertainment (way cheaper in time spent/dollar spent ratio). So the guy who sold me the machine took it in trade for drywall work - I paid him $160 for it instead of gambling for 5 or 10 minutes, I'm already more than a month on it and only in $250 or so into it, nice ratio. So you get the picture. The more time I spend on my current project (probably the 1001st project LOL, but please don't ask my wife LMAO) the better (cheaper/ratio) I am. So time has no value to me, unless I gamble, then time eats dollars. Do I have a problem, absolutely. Has it ruined my life, not yet, it's still my entertainment. I do love working on electronics and mechanical things and figure maybe I concentrate on that one more time, maybe I spend less time actually gambling money and more time gambling my time (again). :nerd:
So in concluding this ramble: I appreciate any and all information I can get on this very helpful forum. If you read any of this and can give me detailed lists, sources to check or advise on how to get my machine running great I'm all ears (eyes). Some things I am working to understand, the hopper wiring where does it come from? Appears from the MPU PCB but not clear yet? Will look at MPU PCB prints more closely soon. Wiring diagram for entire machine, Tokenization setting, NETPLEX everything, BV everything, Top Box I'm not there yet, not interested in LCD at this time, just the sound.
Thanks for all taking their time to read and all the help. Enjoy your Slots I am. :wave:
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I love the early S2000 Cabinet without the ear speakers. Would put one in my collection in a second. When I first saw your top box wiring my thoughts also were a Frankenstein machine. Robbed of parts then a bunch of stuff added to make it look good. As far as Vision ready being rare, not. I can take any S2000 and make it a vision. A vision monitor would do you no good unless you have all the special chips and data card for a vision. I agree with Rich about the S+ chip. It may be an older chip that doesn't support sound. I tried to tell you that back in the beginning. The link I posted about settings after a clear should have been very easy. The author spelled out every step. It explain coin-less and hand pays etc. Don't give up. As I also said, your machine was not made for an amplifier, so I suspect some thing different with the sound.
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Vision ready info makes a lot of sense. Thanks. I do like the 'flush side' speakers after looking at the ear style. And yes, I am not interested in the LCD top box stuff. Read the link and settings and you are right it is real straight forward and easy to do. I just have to get the sound, hopper and BV working to know what is, and what isn't right in the settings. It is really looking like I have some bad units. If it's settings, I will learn the hard way, maybe a 2X4 would help with understanding the reset/menu setup. I do understand the explanation of the settings, I just don't have the confidence yet, that I am right, for sure. I am going to get the MPU PCB 504B, 363 chips and sound board. If that doesn't get me going, I will continue to plug away. I have confidence it will with the help I got from members. I believe all the settings and menu testing are working and correct. As for the amplifier, I am pretty sure I will need it for the new parts I am getting. So far so good on parts purchases. Only have 2 spare sound chips and 2 spare hopper driver chips, that can't be all bad. So now I am in this machine for more than purchasing a working one. But, I wouldn't have had all this fun LOL. No worries.
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I finally got some energy to look in my topbox. I also have a "Vision Ready" series. They are the same but different from a true s2000. The first wiring harness was correct; however, on the vision ready series all the sound went to the lcd with a built in amp and then back out to the speakers. I honestly do not know how it would sound without some type of amp. You can use the amp but you will have to splice a few wires. I think you eventually will have the sound that you are looking for when you get everything fixed and the sound working. I do agree that this is NOT your problem, but I think you will have better sound quality with the amp in place.
On the wiring harness that goes from your top box to your amp.
white/blue + white/purple to pin that white/blue is currently on
green/blue + green/purple to pin that green/blue is currently on
The bottom row of wires on the harness green/yellow and white/yellow are actually the return to the speaker from the amp (the 2 pin connector on the AMP) to the speaker in the coin tray. Vision Ready does not support that speaker. I have a speaker there but no harness or connector. You probably have no connector there either. You would actually have to mod the lower cabinet to add a connector in. I was always happy with the sound without the tray speaker so I never cared to mod it.
Also you were asking about a spectrum display. I did add a progressive spectrum display into my player tracking area. That's what a spectrum display is. I still am not sure why your machine was saying spectrum display "not responding" Seems to me if it was not connected at all it wouldn't say that it was "not responding; however I am not sure.
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Chris, is your wiring going directly to the speakers. The way they are made makes me think they are already powered speakers
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No. Wiring comes out of the top box connector to the LCD and then split.
This topic on the old site may help. There are 2 amplifier chips in the LCD that split signal and then come back out of the LCD and to both speakers. Goes in 2 wires comes out 4 wires (2 per speaker).
The vision LCD is equiped with 2 * TDA7360 which are 22w amplifier chips.
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?action=printpage;topic=10167.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?action=printpage;topic=10167.0)
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Honestly sound is pretty simple. From MPU to MOTHERBOARD to TOPBOX. It doesnt go through any I/O just J19 I believe (im not looking at my machine) on the motherboard to topbox connector. I think he would at least get mono tones from the speakers if not connected to an amp there should be something at least. I just don't know if the amp in the LCD gives any extra power to power the speakers or if they don't need any extra.
I would like to know where he got power from to power the AMP. Can you take a picture where you plugged into?
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Sound should be easy for sure. The amp and harness looked to be plug and play for my unit. Check my earlier pic of connector plate in top box. Chris your picture of your plate is different. I'll post a pic of amp pcb and harness connectors when I get home tonight. I measured the pins on the 9 pin in the plate, the harness had a 9 pin power plug with 2 wires in it that matched to 13 VDC in my 9 pin in the plate. Speakers in to amp, connector had 6 pin that matched plate connector. Amp out to speakers, two 2 pin connectors plug into speakers. Speakers could be bad, I haven't tested them with a portable player. They do pop when power is applied. Could still be bad. Only thing I saw from print was the stereo connections looked a bit different. I'll look closer at that tonight also. And post the wiring diagram I used.
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Ok I am going to try and explain this. Its hard to type in words. You have to remember that things are different because I use an LCD and the wiring looks different. It's the same but different.
Its fine that you used the 9 pin MOLEX from the topbox to get power to the 4 pin MOLEX on the AMP. That is correct and fine. My 9 pin has many more wires because it goes to my LCD. I though you used the other wiring harness that's why I was wondering where you plugged it in.
The 8 PIN MOLEX in the topbox is the SOUND.
The 2 pin MOLEX on the AMP is actually SOUND OUT to lower tray speaker. It travels back down from the AMP to the 8 PIN MOLEX to the top box connector. Vision Ready does not use them.
The 4 Pin MOLEX On the AMP is sound out to speakers from the AMP.
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Here is the Schematic for your AMP. Hope this all helps you. REMEMBER the sound AMP is for use in an s2000 (which uses 6 wires for sound) not a Vision Ready (which uses 2 wires for sound). They are the same but different.
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Here is one more picture for you. I wanted to stress that things look different, but they are the same. Your topbox connectors compared to mine. I have more wires of course because of the LCD but you will see compared sided to side they are the same. You have a different cutout layout, but they are the same.
The above information will set up your AMP... NOW if your chips, MPU, Motherboard or Speakers are bad then that is another story; however, I know that your amp will be in working order.
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Let me say this 1st. Every time I power on my machine I get DISPLAY PASSES SELF TEST then DISPLAY'S NETPLEX LINK IS DOWN. I think that is important. I do not know anything about the Netplex (communication?) now or before. I know it is for the display, it says that. What else it does, I have no idea. I believe Netplex talks to the BV and maybe the hopper for all I know. I'm sure I should have mentioned this before the post on June 8th, but the machine worked, as far as I was concerned, figure it out later. It may be later. Any info on that would be great.
As for sound. Chris, thanks for the pics and info. You have a few things that are incorrect, but the gist of what you say is important and true. And I know you know how your machine works. Mine is different, and really is the same, but we will straighten that all out.
First what my machine has, J19 Pins 1&2, go to coin tray speaker, I don't have one. OK. Pins 3&4, no connection from stepper video motherboard, supposed to go to J300? OK. Pins 5&6, from stepper video motherboard Speaker A +/-, ( just like yours, look at the pin numbers stamped on the connector in your top box, 1,2,3 and 4 are easier to see) Pins 7&8, from stepper video motherboard Speaker B +/-. OK. The print you sent of the amp PCB helped, the drawing I used is right, but I wasn't sure until I saw your print.
So, the wiring to the AMP PCB from the stepper video motherboard J19: Let's just do Speaker A. J19 stepper video motherboard pins 1&2 to J19 top box panel connector pins 5&6 to J7 AMP PCB pins 2&3. Signals into AMP PCB correct. Through AMP circuits and out J1 pins 1&2 to the connector to the left speaker in the top box (not powered, just a speaker). That should work. But it is for the coin tray speaker I don't have. So what, I hooked that sound signal to the AMP PCB and it doesn't work. I actually just got done verifying this with the meter too.
So I got the S2000 manual today. I see how the top box speakers are supposed to hook up. From the 486 CPU and the LCD display in the top box. Like yours is wired. I don't have any of that. Plus, I have a Display Netplex Link Is Down when I power up my machine. Maybe I do have a bad MPU PCB. I have a new one coming by Thursday I think, 504B, sound board, sound simm and 363 chips.
Man what a ride. Your right the pictures and notes are easier to see, I won't do that now. I will post the pictures I took of my machine wiring and screenshots of the schematics. I hope all this makes sense to everyone reading. I'm going to wait until I get the new parts and see what happens. I am sure that will fix everything without a doubt. LOL.
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Im not sure of pin numbers you will have to figure it out. I was calling them from the top right of where it plugs into topbox. I cannot pull my machine apart to get them but it gives you and Idea. Hopefully you get it figured out. As you see in your own picture the wires behind the first reel are not connected to anything. they would have been jumpered together they go from the AMP to the lower tray speaker which is not in use for a vision ready.
Chris
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Yes. I don't have all the stuff in there. I figured it would be a pain for you to get to it with the display and all.
Here are the other 2 schematics.
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I edited that reply; hopefully it makes sense. You need to figure out what motherboard you have the one on the backplane. There are many different versions. Vision ready motherboards are different than the newer s2000 vision as far as I know. The pinouts are different. That would help you a lot. They may have changed the motherboard out also. It would help to know exactly which one you have. But with those 4 wires hanging there disconnected this was a Vision Ready machine.
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I'll look at the mobo. Is the Netplex thing, error, important?
It's right. I think I have an S2000 machine? The manual I got is matching. It's a Vision S2000 right?
Mobo number matches the S2000 manual PCB number.
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Yes "netplex link is down" is very important. Netplex is IGT's Plug and play platform. It is what sees the spectrum progressive display, the bill validator and such. It could be caused from a number of things. Green varta battery damage is a huge cause just as Therockinelvis said. Here is a link to one of the topics. If you do a search in the main forum IGT s2000 and Vision in the search box type "netplex display is down" you will pull many topics about it.
Here is one link.
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18171.msg97465#msg97465
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Ill look in the morning and let you know. I can't get to it right now.
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EDIT: What to you make of this. I am going in after it.
FYI. When I got the machine, the Display didn't show anything. So, the 1st thing I did was check the connectors. the ribbon cable was disconnected to the display from the PCB. It worked and tests OK. But the Netplex is down!
Edit: Now it looks like the flash reflection. Still gonna look into this. It's the door sensor power I believe. That works. Never mind.
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Let me look in the morning especially about the sound. I was taking pictures in the dark so I did not wake anyone up last night. You may not have to splice anything. Now that I look at the picture that I took there may be 4 speaker and then 4 unused wires jumpered together in the 8pin Molex. It may be completely plug and play to the AMP. I will look in the morning. Everyone is asleep and I can't take stuff out to get a better look.
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Ok I am sorry. There are "8" wires in the 8 pin sound molex. the harness that came with the AMP plugs in and you don't have to splice anything. Those 2 connectors that are unplugged should be plugged in but it shouldn't make a difference. The bottom row of wires closest to the machine front are to the bottom coin tray which is not in use. that is why they are jumpered together. So your amp should be wired correctly plug and play. Sorry. It's hard to look at stuff in the dark and not wake everyone in the house. I will look in the morning about motherboard number and pinout. Your motherboard is from 1997 So i can almost guarantee we have the same one. Vision Ready was from I believe 1997-1999
I edited above post so anyone that uses this topic for help later on does not get wrong info!
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Here is the motherboard diagram
J19 4 wires go to the topbox 8 PIN MOLEX for sound. The other 2 wires go to something for the door. None of them go to the lower coin tray. Does your J19 have 8 pins as you said earlier??? your molex is only 6 pins so I am confused
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Oh I see what you are doing. That schematic you are looking at is the wrong one. It is for a different machine with a 17" video and speakers. That is the incorrect diagram for your machine. The 2nd diagram is correct from the back of the radisys LCD that was the vision monitor.
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Well finally a bit of good news. Thinking the Netplex error is important I decided to look at the BV. Did research but I know very little about them. Basically cashbox was mentioned a lot and being sure it's in all the way, it was, but the two plastic spring loaded flags, now that is another problem. I was working on it (banging on it) and the motor worked for more than just a slight second. Adjusted the sensor PCB so the flags could work and It took a $20 and 3 ones. It's working. I still have the netplex error and the simplex netplex not working. I'm going to clear/key it tonight and make sure it knows no simplex or progressive and see what that does. Also will check the 5-8 VDC pin on 13V 25V power supply again and recheck the 5 VDC supply in the AC distribution comm box behind the hopper. Thanks. ChrisC. Getting some where anyway, making progress.
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Good to hear! I don't know a lot about BV but I'm sure everyone else here does. It's fun an exciting to do what your are doing just keep going. You will get it!!
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Did the clear/key. Still have Display's Netplex Link Is Down. And no sound or hopper anything. BV still works. Also noticed the coin comparator is working great! Was having trouble, I thought, with quite a few coins just dropping through. Was going to get to it and check/clean the optics. But now I can rapid fire insert them and 99.8% go in no problem. I am going to go out on a limb here and suggest that when the BV was not working, it was taking up a whole lot of processing time. Maybe trying to communicate all the time. I also set the game this time to max, 5. Maybe that's it but I don't know. I don't have the Simplex Netplex error either, maybe that helped with the coin comparator thing too. I may have set something up in the menu for that or progressive by mistake on the last clear/key. Probably won't know. Will check P/S voltages tonight.
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Many thanks to Jim @ Midwest Slots! I got the new parts today and after a bit of setup my machine WORKS! Hopper is still not working. I can fix that. The machine sounds great. Looks like everything else is going to be working. I'll check it by playing for a bit. So, replaced the MPU PCB with 504, Sound board and Simm, got the 363 chips installed and all good. I will repair the original MPU PCB later, I have a working one to compare with now. Now I will concentrate on hopper and getting my modification project completed. Thanks again Jim! Thanks to all others who helped with the suggestions and information. Sometimes the boards are just bad.
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Finally got the Hopper working. That should complete this post. I believe everything on the machine is working correctly. I will repair the original MPU PCB when time and need permits.
Hopper was basically stuck. Maybe just sitting for long, maybe just full of lint/debris. I am going to purchase a new motor and see if it runs a bit faster.
The crazy thing, I got it working on the bench with a 12 VDC power supply. Looked good for 12 VDC. I could spin it very easy with the gear on back of motor. Every time I put it in the machine, nothing, not even a little bit. I put it in the menu hopper test and banged on it, and finally after turning the gear on the back of the motor while in test, it drove a little bit. I was elated. Took it apart a bit and removed the lint/debris I could see, spun it by hand a bunch and it seems to work all the time now. Maybe needs a new motor, maybe some lube. I'll give it a try.
Thanks again for every ones help. Could not have done it without the help and information form everyone and the forum posts.
PS. I am going to get going on the modding of putting my electronics in the machine so I can control every thing any way I want. I'll post when I have something to show.
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I don't know if this was a problem but the hopper motor gearbox has grease inside it and sometimes that grease begins to dry out, gets thick and harder for the motor to turn the gears. When this happens there are different techniques to fix things, such as drilling a small hole in the top of the gearbox and adding some fresh gear lube, then covering the hole you drilled. Or you can manually work the motor until things start turning, then run it for a while to get the gearbox warmed up and stir up all that old grease. The machine Test menus have a hopper test that will turn it on and run it while dispensing 10 coins.
Glad you got the machine working completely.