New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT I-Game and Game King => Topic started by: topache on January 01, 2019, 03:02:48 PM
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Hello all. I just bought a IGT Game King Keno machine that has 12 games on it 6 poker, 2 slots 1 BJ and 3 kenos.
It's been converted to a LCD touchscreen.
I have 2 issue that I'm hoping to fix. No sound and a Coin out jam error when I try to cash out.
Sound
I get no sound. In diagnostic menu sound is all they way up. Nothing at all when trying the synthesized sound test. Speaker wires are hooked up. I tried another speaker. Not sure what I can do / test to figure out what's the issue. Is the 039 mpu responsible for sound as I cannot locate a separate sound board or amplifier board? Will I need a sound chip or a new mpu?
Hopper
I can spin the hopper by hand. Appears wires are all in place to motor. In menu cabinet board inputs says hopper motion detect 0 Hopper full 0 and reversible hopper 0 Is there a way to test it to see if the hopper is bad or what?
Also appears I'm missing 2 fuses in the power supply. Doesn't seem normal??
I'm really hoping it's a simple fix.
Please let me know if more pictures or info is needed. Thank you in advance for your time and assistance.
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I wanted to add a screenshot of my game version
Okay so I Googled and searched till my fingers hurt, LOL.
I think I'm missing the multimedia board that goes on top of my mpu however I'm finding out that the one that belongs to my 3902 is a Simm board and I think what I'm missing are the 2 SWC00046 chips? Not sure where they go and if I can buy them separately?
I'm so confused. Haven't even bothered to research the hopper issue yet...
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SWC00046 chips go on this type MML. The SIMM board is not for your game. No MML= no sound. Coin out jam could be a bad I/O or a hopper malfunction.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/IGT-S2000-MULTI-MEDIA-LITE-BOARD-MODEL-2710-2/190805735494?hash=item2c6ce87846:g:C1AAAOxyK~hRG7Ym:sc:USPSPriorityMailSmallFlatRateBox (https://www.ebay.com/itm/IGT-S2000-MULTI-MEDIA-LITE-BOARD-MODEL-2710-2/190805735494?hash=item2c6ce87846:g:C1AAAOxyK~hRG7Ym:sc:USPSPriorityMailSmallFlatRateBox)!72044!US!-1:rk:1:pf:0
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Thank you so much for your reply .
I just bought that board.
Now just need to find the 2 chips and search for a hopper i/o board.
Thanks again
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I have those chips. Your machine being an early model that's been upgraded to a 3902 board may not even have the same I/O boards. I'm unfamiliar with them. The missing fuses are probably not affecting your game play but I would replace them. That's the power dist box not the power supply. The power supply is to the left of it. It does go to the power supply, on/off switch & I think ties into the monitor power but others go to the top box etc to supply 110V for accessories such as progressive controllers, player tracking units, etc. PM me if you want the SWC chips.
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PM sent
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Like RB said you have an old 19" Game King cabinet. Someone did a hack job and got a 15" door mounted LCD installed on it. You have a 3902 MPU board with Game King 4.3 software installed.
You should have basic sounds without the sound board and sound software installed. Trace the speaker wires, they should go to the top left connector on your I/O tray. The wires should be wht/grn and grn/wht. Follow them from the speaker to the connector to make sure they didn't get cut somewhere.
The sound card and software has some of the enhanced sounds used by some games, primarily keno in your case.
The top fuse F1 is for the communications board so the machine can communicate with with other casino equipment, it's not needed for home use. F2, the middle fuse provides power to the CRT monitor (that is no longer installed in your machine), the fluorescent lights, and a couple of other optional things. You'll need to replace it if you want the lights to work. How is your LCD monitor being powered, plugged into the convenience outlet?
As for coin out jam, does the hopper motor run when you cash out?
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Good Morning Tilt.
Thank you so much for your reply with your help it's greatly appreciated.
I picked up this machine two days ago and when we opened it up I knew it was kind of a hack job. Especially when I saw the Mei sc66 bill acceptor kind of just thrown in there. Once I fix the sound and Hopper, hopefully, then I will move on to the bill acceptor as right now in plays and accept quarters so not my top priority.
Yes I had traced the two speaker wires to the plug on the top left and I got continuity on both. However I didn't go any further then that so if I need to please let me know.
As far as the two missing fuses that makes sense, thank you. My fluorescence has been changed out for LEDs so all my lights do work.
It appears they tapped into the power of the plug on the back plane PCB board so the power to the LCD is hardwired in
Lastly I do not hear the hopper motor run all when I hit cash out.
Also I see a little tiny board attached inside the hopper that has a green light on it. I used a mirror to see if it lights up when the machine is on and it does not. Not sure if this is normal or not, just want to point it out for troubleshooting purposes
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Ok. From the connector on the front of the I/O tray they go directly to the rear connector (the audio isn't processed by the two cards on the I/O tray). Inspect the rear connector for bent pins. From there it goes to the I/O connector to the MPU connector J2. Look at that connector for a bent pin as well. If they are OK then it's most likely a problem on your MPU board.
I noticed it had the MEI acceptor installed. I'm not sure that there's a duckbill (the bill guide between the validator head and door bezel) made for that validator with the older game king.
I'm not sure about the green light (mine doesn't have one), but if the motor doesn't run when you cash out it's probably the hopper or I/O card that is the problem.
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Again I can't thank you enough for your help and assistance. I really do appreciate it.
I pulled all my boards checked all the pins and unfortunately none are bent.
I had already bought a multimedia board and the swc chips which should be coming in a few days if that happens not to fix my audio I guess I'll look at purchasing another mpu.
As for the Bill acceptor I'm not too worried about the duckbill because if I can get it working I'll finagle something in between the front and the acceptor. But I'm not tackling that project until I get the sound in Hopper working.
As far as the hopper goes on the event log it shows Cash Out, Hopper started then coin 1 Jam. Not sure if that's really useful or not.
This weekend I'm going to try to put 24 volts to the motor just to make sure that it runs, even though I can spin the little gear and the wheel turns I want to make sure the motor actually runs.
I found one like mine on eBay for like 80 bucks shipped, which I have no problem paying but I just want to make sure it's my Hopper first and not an IO board. I'm a little confused on the IO board as I think I only have two of them on a tray and I'm not sure which one controls the hopper to look for a replacement.
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Alright. Well most likely something on the sound section of the MPU board has failed then. On the older game kings there isn't a separate audio amplifier board, the audio comes directly off the MPU board.
I took a little closer look at your MPU board and U50 doesn't look normal. It it dust or tape residue on it or is the component damaged? That's the power regulator for the audio section on the MPU board. I put a red circle around the component in question to make it easier for you to find.
Another thing I noticed is that you have a Green NiCAD Varta battery installed on your MPU, so yours is a 3903 board, not a 3902. 3903 has a battery, 3902 does not. Inspect that battery to make sure it isn't leaking, they're famous for that. If you do end up getting a new MPU to fix your sound issue, get a 3902 board for a replacement.
As for the hopper, there's also a test in the diagnostics section that you can run too. It will run the hopper until it has dispensed 10 coins.
The smaller of the two cards in your I/O tray controls the hopper. They're harder to find than the ones in the newer Game Kings/I-games. If you do end up looking to buy one make sure the seller understands that it's for the old game kings or you may end up with a new model that won't work. Pictures and part numbers are best for verification.
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Appreciate your response. I know I've said it many times but I'll probably keep on saying it. LOL
So I took the board out but this time even took it out of the tray. looked at the back and front. Looks pretty clean to me I took a close up picture of u50 there was some crud on there that got off with a toothpick.
My green battery also looks very clean with no leakage.
Yes I have my eye on a 3902 right now. Which I'm still hoping is available once I get my multimedia board and chips to find out the sound still doesn't work, LOL.
I've read about Hopper test in the setup menu. However I don't believe my machine has that. I posted a few pictures of my menu.
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You're welcome.
OK, it was hard to tell from the picture if it was damaged or not. If it would have been it would have been an easy fix for your audio problem (if you can solder or know someone who can).
You're in the attendant menu, you need to be in the operator menu for the hopper test to appear.
Open the main door and press the white button on the MPU board, then touch Diagnostics and you should see a hopper test menu button.
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Thank you I really hope I'm not becoming a pain
Omg I didn't know this menu existed how freaking awesome. However on the other hand I screwed something up and think I caused another issue, ugh
Initially had 12 games installed on all my denominations. $0.25 .50 $1 and $2
When I was in operator menu I first it a hopper test, and no-go the hopper did not start. I attached to screenshot. at that point I decided to have a look around. I saw that my dollar bill acceptor said not responsive so I hit Auto config and now it says installed. And guess what it works !!!! Wahoo.
Then I saw a tournament option and it's like holy crap. Really? Sweet. So I decided to try it out and chose one game Deuces Wild for 1 minute then got out. However since I did the Hopper test I got a coin Out jam error so I had to pull the main board pull the button battery and go through the initialization to reset it. When the game came back on I only have one game now, Deuces Wild under my $0.25 denomination, and 12 games under my 50 Cent $1 + $2.
I tried going back in there and set it up under game selection it won't let me. I think I need a key chip to do that however how was I able to change it from 12 games to one without a key chip . And what's weird is my Deuces Wild has two payout options that are green and all others just 1.
Can I get all told my games back under $0.25?
Man I should have got out after I did the hopper test and went back in there and fool around with it later.
This machines is causing me alot of stress. Lol
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That's how ya learn! No damage done, but you will need a Keychip to enable the games and denominations you want. You really need to have one on hand anyhow, so no big deal. Send a PM to member RB, he can probably hook you up with one. You need Key 17 for your game software. The coin out jam error should have cleared by opening and closing the main door.
As far as the hopper problem goes it's a toss up really. It could be the I/O card, hopper, or the wiring between it all. My first choice would be the hopper. Check with our vendors here, you can probably find a better deal and know it will be in tested/working condition.
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Well that's good.. whew.
The only way I can clear it is by removing the button battery
will that clear chip also bring back my tournament option? I was thinking I could fix it the way I broke it by adding a bunch of games 2 tournament having it error out with the hopper then reset the machine. Lol
I played 1 tournament and now the option is gone.
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It should still be there. Are you sure you were in the operator menu? Operator menu is the one you enter by pressing the MPU self test button. Attendant menu is the one you get by turning the jackpot reset key.
Tournament Capability
If credits are not accumulated, the machine can be placed in the tournament mode. To select tournament mode options, access the Operator Menu and touch Setup, Machine Options, and Tournament Games. Touch Tournament Games Selection to select which game is played in the tournament mode. Touch Tournament Games Setup to determine whether tournament play is time-only, time-and-credit, or credit-only by entering the minutes, seconds, and/or credit amounts. After the main door is closed, the selected game is ready for tournament play.
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"I can spin the hopper by hand. Appears wires are all in place to motor. In menu cabinet board inputs says hopper motion detect 0 Hopper full 0 and reversible hopper 0 Is there a way to test it to see if the hopper is bad or what?"
The hopper should not spin by hand. If it does something is broken in the gearbox or the roll pin has been removed.
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Sorry I should have been more specific.
I'm able to turn the hopper using a little tiny gear off the motor. Of course it turns really slow because of the gearbox but it turns. I took your suggestion and hooked up the motor to 12 volts and it works the hopper was spitting out quarters. However at first the little green light on at tiny PCB was lit up and then it went out and now it doesn't come on anymore. In hindsight I should have disconnected the wires to the little PCB board before hooking up 12 volts, ugh.
Not sure if I cause damage or not however I still think I have another issue besides the hopper?
I think at this point I'll wait for my multimedia board and chips to come in. If hat does not fix my sound issue then I'm going to order a mpu. Maybe an mpu will fix everything. LOL. And if not not sure where to go at that point as I need sound and would love to have the hopper work.
On a positive note my dollar bill acceptor works now and I know I have tournament option which is really cool and I'm getting a clear chip to add delete games. So overall I learned a lot and I greatly thank you for your time, responses, help and your patience.
If one wants to donate for all the help they received should it go to the individuals or the site?
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There is a link on home page to donate to this forum if you'd like to.
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Well I was trying to be optimistic. I got my multimedia Board and sec chips in. Put chip 1 on top left and 2 underneath .
Booted it up and......... no sound.
So I guess my last choice is a new mpu...
Gonna look around and I'll report back.
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I would have been shocked if it did work. For basic sounds you don't need to have a sound card installed.
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Well I got my new mpu in today a 3802. I swapped all the chips and still no sound. Ugh. Or hopper.
I traced the 2 green speaker wires again all the way to the back plane connector and have continuity. I've tried another speaker.
I've attached a picture of the top of my backplane connectors not
Not sure if it's any help but hey the more info I can give the better
What can I do or look at now? This is really frustrating me....
I need sound. Lol
Can any of you please possibly give me some guidance ?
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Wow...I'm surprised and sorry that didn't fix the sound issue. It's pretty rare for a motherboard to go bad, especially since there's no components on it that the audio travels through. Just connectors and circuit traces.
The best thing at this point would be to check continuity between the wires at the speaker to where the audio comes out of the MPU board. I've attached some diagrams showing the connection from the speaker to the front of IO card tray. The front of the IO card tray to connector J7 on the motherboard, then from connector J7 on the motherboard to connector J2 on the motherboard which goes to P2 on the MPU board. Somewhere along the line there must be a break in continuity on one of them.
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No worries at all. It was worth a shot.
I look at it this way I got an upgraded board now 3902 instead of a 3903. Lol
I really do appreciate you not bailing on me yet. Thank you for all the diagrams. Tomorrow morning I'll dig deep see what I can find. It's going to be tough as its really tight in there
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That's a good way of looking at it. It's always good to have good working spare parts too.
Hey, what were you trying to show in the last picture you posted? The speaker wires don't (or shouldn't) go there. They connect to the front of the I/O card tray. I circled the connector where the speaker should connect to on it.
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That last picture I posted was the top of my motherboard. I just saw that it was cut and spliced into the LCD so I wasn't sure if it was helpful for not but I figured I'd post it
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Oh Ok. If your speaker wires were going there then that would have been a problem.
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So I couldn't wait until the morning, LOL
I have continuity to both of my speaker wires in the door to the p2 plug on the motherboard. See pic. You can see my wire that I used to test it.
Do I need to test further?
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I get the same way sometimes. Let me check one more thing and the next thing you know it's 3 hours later ha ha.
Well, the only other than I can think of right now it to make sure that pin 4A (as shown in your picture) isn't shorted to ground.
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I hear ya. At this point it's really baffling me. Not only do I want sound I'm really curious what's the issue is...
No continuity to ground. Tested several different spots.
Fyi. I get continuity to the light green/ white stripe wire from this 4a pin.
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I'm baffled too at this point. The next place is the MPU board. Here's the audio section of it.
According to the drawing it should be the wht/grn wire on 4A, but that shouldn't matter. It wouldn't be the first time I found an error in IGT's drawings.
Let me check a couple of things on my machine tomorrow and I'll see if I can come up with anything else.
Edited to add attachment.
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Thank you very much. I really really do appreciate all your time
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Good morning. So I was thinking about it last night. I did another test. I'm getting 4 Ohms on the speaker and also getting 4 Ohms between pins for 4 and 3 on the P2 connector. So that's good.
Do you possibly think that it could be my chipset that's causing the issue for sound? With two mpu boards the likelihood of them both being bad is unlikey?
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That's what I'm wondering too. I have the software, I just need to burn it and install it. Yeah, it would be extremely unlikely that both MPU boards would have bad sound sections. In fact, I don't think I've ever heard of a MPU board being the cause of no sound. I'll install that same software this afternoon and see if I can figure anything out.
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Wow thank you so so much
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I loaded a 3902 with your software set and put it in. The sounds play just fine with default settings. I don't know why yours isn't. The only thing I can think of at this point would be to test your MPU board/software in a different machine to make 100% sure it's working properly. If you don't have another machine to test it in nearby I can check it out for you if you want to mail it to me.
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Is that an extra set that you put into your machine?
If so was thinking 1) I can buy it off of you to try it in my machine or 2) I can leave you some sort of deposit and pay for shipping both ways...
If that doesn't work then I guess I'll send you my mpu and chip set ?
Just a quick thought, if any of the chips were in backwards the thing wouldn't boot up or play at all correct?
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Not really an extra set. I had a board with GK4.3 on it, but it had G2142 GMEs. So I burned a set of G1245s so it would match yours. I'm sure one of our vendors can hook you up with a set like yours or another one though if you want to go that route.
Yeah, if you put them in backwards the game won't boot up. You'll end up with a gray pixelated screen and that's it. Most of the time it doesn't hurt anything, just put it back in the way it's supposed to be and it will work.
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Okay no worries. I guess my next step is I'm going to purchase another set try it out in my machine if it doesn't work then I'll send it to you on my 3903 board to test and go from there?
Oh by the way the other last issue about the hopper, I cannot locate anywhere on the Internet or eBay an I/0 board for my machine. It doesn't seem like they exist, weird.
So to alleviate the easy issue I just bought another Hopper today so we'll wait till it comes in and see what happens...
Ugh this machine is stressing me out, LOL.
However Bill acceptor works Touch Screen works great looks great, it's a nice machine just no sound or Hopper payout.
Once again you have no idea how much I appreciate everything you've done for me. I'm very grateful.
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Ok. I'd be glad to test it for you if that doesn't work out either.
Yes, parts are hard to find for the old game king cabinets. Some of the components are interchangeable with the newer machines, but others are not including the power supply, I/O boards, and motherboard.
My first guess would have been the hopper too, hopefully it's not the I/O card.
Glad to help.
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I know you're probably lost at this point too but please please don't give up on me I'm try everythingng to fix my sound
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FYI not sure if this is any help or not but at this point I would think everything I do is, LOL.
As a test I put two very thin wires into the female plug on the CPU pins 3 and 4 that the MPU plugs into and went directly to my speaker. I plugged the mpu in and continuity checked to make sure they weren't touching each other or anything like that. Power it on and still no sound.
oh and FYI this is the first time I put my ear up to the speaker and I can hear like a hum so it appears there's some kind of signal going there but I'm not getting any game sounds. And if I reverse the speaker wires I get no hum nothing.
I was going over the diagrams again you sent me why is there speaker A and a speaker B do you think that may have something to do with it? I only have one speaker.
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The early Game Kings only had one speaker. Later machines GK+/Igame+ have two speakers and stereo sound capability.
The only thing I can think of at this point is your audio is getting grounded out somewhere or the female contacts on the mother board are damaged and the male pins from the MPU or I/O board aren't making good contact with them (the latter doesn't seem likely though).
It's a pain, but you may want to pull the motherboard out of the machine so you can check and see if there's continuity between the pins on the MPU side to the connector on the front of the I/O card tray. With it out you can also inspect the solder connections on the motherboard connectors.
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Once again thank you so much your reply. You're my only hope at this point, LOL.
Wouldn't me putting two Thin wires into the motherboards female pins 3 and 4, and then plugging that into my speaker then inserting the MPU into it rule out the cpu? As technically now my speakers are directly connected to the mpu pins
By all means if I have to pull it out I will I'm desperate to find out my sound issue.
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More testing.
My plug on front of the io tray is a 6 prone plug however only 4 wires are plugged into it.
My speaker wires are top right (pin 3) white light green and bottom middle (pin 5) white dark green
Is this correct ?
Also I unplugged it from the speaker and tray side and checked continuity. on the plug side, the Male (speaker side) , no continuity to ground on either of the two wires. however on the female side (tray side) on pin five, the white with dark green I have continuity to ground.
Is this correct?
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The wiring diagrams for the sound span 4 different pages so I made a drawing that combines them all into one. Could have done it with Visio or something, but drawing it by hand was faster (at least for me ha ha). I also took a photo of J450 and labeled the pins so you know how it's numbered. When referring to wiring coloring it goes base color/tracer (stripe) color. So wht/grn means it's a white wire with a green tracer.
What you were referring to as pin 5 is actually pin 2 a grn/wht wire. It's the audio ground wire and connects to the negative terminal on the speaker. That wire should have continuity to ground. The positive wire wht/grn (pin 4) should not have continuity to ground. When you put your meter lead on the positive wire and the other lead to ground you should see the meter reading climb upwards. (Your meter will be charging a capacitor on the MPU board, as the capacitor charges the resistance increases). Is that what yours does?
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Thank you for trying to help me figure this out.
So I put my red lead on the white / green wire, pin 4, and blk on ground and yes my meter climbed slowly and I stopped about 2.2.
Not sure if this is anything or not but I want to mention it. You know how I told you my speaker kind of hums. Well if I put my ear next to it and put some credits in it and when I play something it kind of almost sounds like it changes it's tone / pitch when the game runs and then stops, almost like it's receiving a sound signal.
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Got a pair of headphones? If so, try rigging up the speaker wires to headphone jack and see if you get any sound that way. It sounds like you have good continuity from the speaker wires to the MPU board.
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Sorry, not sure if I follow?
Oh also I tried a game of Keno and put my ear near the speaker and I could hear faintly like 20 "pulses" as the balls are dropping.
It really seems like it's getting the signal.
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If you had a set of headphones I thought if you hooked the speaker wires up to them and got sound that maybe your speaker is the real problem? You've verified the all the volume sliders are turned all the way up in the sound menu right?
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Ah gotcha . So I tried to hook up a pair of headphones to the wires and I heard nothing at all.
Makes no sense.
I guess maybe it's time to throw the towel in and come to the conclusion that I'm just not going to have sound. That really blows.
Oh and another bummer, I got my hopper in today and same problem. Ran the hopper test got coin out Jam and had to pull the button battery to clear it.
This machine is going to be the death of me.
I'm okay living without the hopper however I really really wanted sound.
Thanks you for everything. You have no idea how much I really appreciate it.
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Doesn't make sense to me either. I really doubt you have two bad MPU boards, but if you want me to check yours out I'll be happy to do it. No charge, just the cost of postage. I could remove the green varta battery from the 3903 board for you. You have to remove U72 along with it or you will get Door Open MCLB errors.
Yeah, you're not having a lot of luck. I would have swapped the hopper first though too. Inspect the wiring from the hopper plug to where it plugs into the motherboard at J13. If that looks good then most likely the lower cabinet I/O board is bad. Those can be hard to find for the older machines. If you decide to send the MPU, pull the I/O board off the tray and send it along. I'll test that for you as well.
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I think one of these nights I'm just going to pull out all the boards inspect the CPU and Trace all the wires again..
And if that doesn't work then I think I'm just going to give up.
Thanks for the offer I might take you up on sending you the io board to test. However trying 3 MPUs I can't imagine all three of them being bad.
Thanks for the tip for that green battery I think I'll remove it.
Oh you know that faint hum I get and that really faint pulse sound or whatever it is I hear when playing a game? I only get that when I hook up the positive speaker wire to the negative side of the speaker and negative to the positive. I get nothing when hooked up correctly.
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Ok. Yeah, they only way I could see three MPU boards being bad was if there was something wrong in your machine that was blowing them when plugged in and turned on. That doesn't seem likely though since you checked the wiring for continuity and shorts to ground. I don't think it would hurt the audio amp if the speaker + was shorted to ground, but I really don't want to try it and see what happens either.
Sure no problem. I'll be happy to check it out for you. Shoot me a PM when you want to send it and I'll give you my address.
Yeah, do get rid of the green varta battery. They're bad news. They will eventually leak and destroy the board.
Not sure why it would do that.
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By any chance do you have the pin layout for the CPU board?
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Is this what you're looking for?
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Yes thank you so much.
I did some more testing and I think it's my machine that is causing the problem just not sure what. Wanted to run this by you to see if it helps at all in locating the issue.
So this whole time I have had my swc sound chips in the wrong way on the mml board. I know you said that board and those chips were for the extra sounds but check this out.
I put them in the correct way, turned on the machine for about 2 minutes, pulled the board out and both chips were hot but Chip number 2 was extremely hot to the touch.
I know that can't be right.
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Yeah, they should not be hot but I wouldn't think that would have damaged your MPU board. You should still get the basic tones from it.
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It burnt the chips. So thinking my wiring or something caused that and who knows now if it caused damage to the sound section on the mpu...
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It's possible. Hard to say for sure without testing it in a known good machine.