New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => SIGMA Video Games => Topic started by: shortrackskater on April 25, 2019, 09:29:18 AM
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Ok time to post this...
I have a Sigma B9 video poker game. When I got the game, the top fluorescent light worked fine; and one tube for the belly glass flickered while the other didn't work at all. After some fiddling around, started and tube replacing, the both worked. I powered the game off to check something (I don't even remember now, it's been months) and back on and BOTH lower bulbs were out. Just to make sure I replaced/switched the starters and bulbs again with no change. The top still works.
I don't see how both ballasts go "go out" but does anyone know how I can check this damn wiring? I would think the power supply is ok since the top works but I can't trace this, for the life of me. The wiring just vanishes into a mass bundle. Do the lower ballasts get their input voltage from the top down?
How the hell does the ballast, tube and starter work? Are they in parallel? :hissyfit:
This stuff shows my limits as a technician... hence the reason I stay more behind the scenes here!
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I had the same problems with my Sigma 150-B Treasure Tunnel....it's a PITA for sure! :banghead:
I haven't turned it on in awhile....I'm afraid to :24:
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:bump_2:
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Well after just looking more closely I WAS able to follow the wires from the lower ballasts to the bundle and finally out of the bundle to a plug on the power distribution/supply board (if that's what it's called). So, both ballasts ARE supplied by one AC line at that plug.
I guess I can remove that board but it's going to be a pain.
It would be GREAT if anyone had a wiring diagram for that board. I can't believe no one on this forum has any knowledge of this seemingly common Sigma!
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I removed the power distribution board and found that plug CN14 gets one line from the transformer 110v (there's 4 on it I think). The other side goes to these circled parts. Gary said the TSS1G41 is a bridge rectifier. I'm not sure what SK2 is.
I'd guess that when I was fussing around with bulbs I may have accidentally shorted something and blew the rectifier?
But does anyone know what the "SK" is?
I'm assuming I can test the rectifier like a diode or diodes with my meter on diode setting? I do have another one to compare it to. But logically should I test the transformer first? I highly doubt it's bad though since everything else including the top fluorescent light works.
Any comments to my slight confusion? Click on the first photo for a closer look at the two parts in question.
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See attached on how a tube is lit up.
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I removed the power distribution board and found that plug CN14 gets one line from the transformer 110v (there's 4 on it I think). The other side goes to these circled parts. Gary said the TSS1G41 is a bridge rectifier. I'm not sure what SK2 is.
I'd guess that when I was fussing around with bulbs I may have accidentally shorted something and blew the rectifier?
But does anyone know what the "SK" is?
I'm assuming I can test the rectifier like a diode or diodes with my meter on diode setting? I do have another one to compare it to. But logically should I test the transformer first? I highly doubt it's bad though since everything else including the top fluorescent light works.
Any comments to my slight confusion? Click on the first photo for a closer look at the two parts in question.
Those are used for line noise suppression and don't usually go bad.
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I'll check the transformer then. I've never had one go bad.
Gary suggested "borrowing" from the top ballast to test the lowers so I might try hot-wiring that to see if the bulbs light up.
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The transformer tap is providing voltage to each ballast. Both have an output of 100V (or close). Last night I checked everything again. I've replaced the tubes but I tired another new one. The tube flickered and went OUT.
So I removed the top housing, removed the working tube and tried the three other tubes there. NONE worked. So for some odd reason, I'm blowing out tubes in the lower part.
Lost. :Scratch-Head:
Can both ballasts be doing this?
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I have had ballast just die. I’ve seen these small ballast do to different things when they go bad. First is that they are very slow to light the bulb, and the second is as your describing by blowing out the new bulb.
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Just found this on YouTube. Explains how the florescent bulb and ballast work together.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=z55566ep0Hg
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Thanks... and did you remember you posted this a couple years ago?
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=15241.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=15241.0)
I'm going to some more continuity checking including resistance on the ballasts. If it ends up being those, I think Home Depot has a universal that would work for both I think.
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Yea that 5500 was a pain in my butt, it was at a new car dealership about 8 miles from my house.. Owner took them in on a trade in.. Stupid Bally crimp connectors were just a little bit Smaller. Its a good thing I had about 6 of those size connectors.. So I would look over those bulbs sockets for anything possible causing a short. If they look good then it's time for new ballast.. Granger, HD, Lowe's, or a lighting store should have those parts..
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Two ballasts ordered...
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I don’t want to play I told you so card, but I will..🤨😵
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Well whattya know... it was BOTH ballasts. It still bothers me why two went bad but I'm guessing it happened long before I had it.
(this is my other Sigma B9, not to be confused with the one I posted recently in "before and after.")
Still when I first replaced the two starters, and then put in the first tube, it DID stay on but perhaps that bulb was just hearty enough to last until I shut the power off to adjust the lower sockets before installing in the second bulb? :Scratch-Head:
Well anyway... they BOTH work now with the new ballasts.
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Nice job. Had a feeling it was the ballast.