New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT I-Game and Game King => Topic started by: Hiram on March 11, 2020, 11:52:00 PM
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Hi Gents , My new IGT came today !! I am not sure which model this is so , I hope this is posted in the right Forum. Anyway , I won it on an Auction and by shear luck , a good friend happened to be in the City in Maryland where it was so he picked it up and drove it to NY for me (pure luck). Got it home , I plugged it in ..no video . I was JUST about to contact Amechanic but started looking for loose connections first..after feeling around I learned the plug board that snaps on the back of the CRT tube had unplugged , I pushed it back on and the monitor works fine. When I opened it , I saw that it DOES have a Bill Validator (they said it didn't) but who knows if it works or if it's a good model. The computer main board is in a metal box above the Monitor but has a lock on it and , I do not have the key for that ...but what's weird to me is , there's another Board above the box sitting on a thick sheet of plexi and it's loose ..kinda Micky mouse looking . Also , the Coin Hopper looks like someone cut a chunck of the Plastic out to make it fit ...I guess the Westward-Ho Casino had some creative Techs !! So I turned it on , the screen started to show the games then changed and says a coin is jammed--then it showed a blue screen with red tabs on the left but the touch screen does not work ...I flipped the reset key , screen changed and then showed 3 tabs on the bottom ...I did the reset key again and another screen and it wants to calibrate the touch screen and says to touch the dot . I touch it , keep my finger on it for 5 min ..nothing and the touch screen still won't work...The only message it keeps giving me is coin jammed . But I looked at the coin mech and , I don't see any jam ..it does have a sample quarter in it though. Is my touch screen function fried ? Maybe there's a reset for that so I can get it to work or , a board or plug loose for the touch ? I'm hoping it's something simple and this one won't need any major repairs. But if it does ..I'll need the key to get in that box ---Could the Bill Validator be causing the problem and that's stopping the touch screen from working ? I pushed the white reset button on the main board , it didn't help - Also , any idea why that Green Light on top keeps blinking ? if I click the Change , a Red light comes up but that green light won't stop ...the color bands are probably off because they were broken and mixed up during the ride . ...I included a lot of pictures --
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More shots
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Last pictures --- Since I'm new to this , I know I have a lot to learn so any information you can give me would help ..especially if you have any ideas on why it won't work . But , I'm also not sure of the difference between this and the Game King ....I thought the Kings were the only ones that offered other games but , this doesn't say King anywhere . Thanks for you help , I'd love to get it working !!
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As a side note ..My friend sent me these pictures when he went to pickup my new machine ..the place is huge and he said there are rows of Slots and Casino stuff they've been auctioning off. No idea why the Westward-Ho games would be trucked all the way to Maryland but ...it worked out for me , I'm happy with this new machine. They said everything came off the Casino floor so it had to be working ...I've got my fingers crossed the problem is something simple. But , I thought you'd all like to see the Warehouse with the games lined up
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You have a 3802 gameking cabinet. The board on top with all the wiring is the I/O card for that machine. The newer version of your cabinet (3902) did away with that into a more modular I/O card set of 2. Gameking is a term applied to basically any poker game set.
Also just because it came off the casino floor, does not mean it will work. Techs will often go to these machines and swap parts out after they put the machine out of service in order to keep good parts inventory. Unfortunately the parts they put in, are often bad.
The games on the warehouse are all pretty old, the stepper games are all S+ machines from what I can see, and most of the have a plate over where the bill validator would be, some are even too old to have one.
Your issues, and when removing and plugging in things, always do so with power off.
1. Coin jam. Remove the coin comparitor (that little black box on the door with the green light). and look inside for any coin jammed in there. Also examine the entire coin path into and out of the comparitor. The little plastic boxy thing under the comparitor is an optical sensor that registers the coin as it drops out of the comparitor, if the optics are bad, you may get the coin jam error as well. Bad machine counters can also cause coin jam. Most of us jumper the harness that plugs into the counters to get rid of the ticking and bypass this kind of error. I am not 100% sure if the jumper trick is the same on the older 3802 cabinets, somebody else will chime in on that. The coin jam can also be attributed to bad I/O. In your case, since it is all together on that board on top, you would have to replace the board.
2. Touchscreen - Make sure the touchscreen cable is not loose. The touchscreen has a flat gold ribbon cable that connects to a controller somewhere behind the screen, make sure that cable is plugged in. Touchscreen is part of netplex (a bus that controls certain higher level I/O on these machines), so is the validator. Sometimes if one is bad, it will cause the other one to malfunction. Remove the validator and try again. If it still doesn't work, you probably have a bad touchscreen glass. Typically if the controller is bad, you would get a touchscreen error tilt on the machine.
3. Bill validator. One of the diagnostic menus should have a validator test where you can try and feed it bills, the screen will show you what bill you feed it if it is working and spit the bill back out.
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Yep, it's a 13" Game King. The keyswitch was used by some early games to enable a "Privileged Options" menu to change certain settings. Similar to what a keychip does now. It doesn't hold the MPU in the cabinet, you can slide it out of the cabinet using the handle on the front.
You are missing the metal tray that holds the two I/O cards. It may be difficult to find one as parts for the older cabinets aren't real plentiful. You could get away with using the plexiglass that's up there now, but I'd make sure to mount the boards to it so they can't move around and short out. Maybe they are now, but it looks like they're just sitting on top of it? That may be the cause of your coin-in jam.
Here's a couple of photos of what the I/O card tray should look like.
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I can see that I am missing quite a bit ...so Bubba had quite a time with my machine huh ? But why would anyone remove the 2 boards from that tray and plop them on the Plexi like that ? ...it doesn't make sense . Alan asked me to send him the 3 boards so , I'll try removing them but unlike the main board which just slides out fast , they seem to have a lot of wires connected ..Thanks for posting the pictures !!
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Good News Gents ..Thanks to Alan (Badbaud) ..I was finally able to try playing the game . But the game still has a few issues , the Bill Validator still doesn't work and I can not figure out how to change it from a one cent (which shows now) to a 25cent machine (which is what it was orig setup for) ..I keep tapping the 1cent avatar but it brings me back to the games menu. I do have a quarter in the Coin comparitor . Because of this , I am not sure if the hopper even works to do payouts . I tried looking through all the setup menu tabs but , did not see anything about changing or selecting coins or testing the Bill validator . I did find a "Netflix" (or something like that setting) that does an auto check but that only showed there's a problem and the unit never lit up . By accident I also learned that the open door M notice will not go away until you slide the door latch forward ..I learned that trick by accident !! I understand that most of you really know these machines and it's not easy staying patient with newbies like myself who don't know the terms and are trying to learn about the machines we have ...Talking people through things on the phone can be frustrating so, I can't thank Alan enough for taking his time with me .
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Sorry I missed your reply on the 13th. Glad Alan was able to get the I/O board and MPU boards checked out/fixed for you. TO change the game denomination you'll need to key it with a keychip. Do you have one for your machine? If not, contact member RB and he can get you one. Have the Base chip and GME chip numbers handy so he can get you the right one. As for the bill validator, does it cycle at all or is it "dead"?
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I think they told me my game was the older version that had a real key switch installed on the front of the slide out tray and that is suppose to act like the electronic key (if I understood them correctly) but , there's no key I can slide in to turn the lock ...if that's it , maybe I can remove the 2 wires and connect them physically ? The Bill validator does not light up or move , no noise , won't accept bills ..just dead. Alan talked he through how to get it to clear something from the menu but , that didn't help either ...maybe I need a new one ? (ugh) ...can't afford that right now and hoping I can just play the game without it for now . But it would be great to see the game offer different amounts instead of just 1 cent ..plus that would tell me if the hopper works for payouts
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Post your base and gme chip numbers and I can look it up and let you know if you need a keychip or keyswitch.
Yeah, the bill validator should at least cycle. It may be bad, or may not have power. There's a couple of red leds on the bottom right hand side of the transport by the dipswitches. Are those lit?
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I'll look ..and post pics tonight ...here's my Game King Board with the switch ...I had to resize the picture so , not sure if you can read the numbers now---another option Tilt , send me your Email in a PM and I'll send you the full picture
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Your EPROMs are copies and whoever made them didn't write the program version information on them. You can obtain them from the machine menus though. Turn the machine on, then press the MPU self test button. Then touch accounting, and program version accounting. After 15 - 20 seconds or so the screen should populate with the information. The base chip will begin with a M00XXXXX and Game with G00XXXX post those and I'll look it up.
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what or where is the MPU self test button ? Is that the white reset button on the CPU ?
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yes, next to the LEDs.
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Ok ..I tried , hit the white button and calibrate the screen came up (but , I didn't choose that ..it just popped up) ..so I figured I better follow instructions and now this message came up (show in the picture) ...so I tried to clear it ..it won't clear . I shut off the machine and it says something about coin jam and touch screen ..so the touch screen doesn't work now and when I hit the key on the side ..it goes right to calibrate touchscreen but it will not give me the dots to touch ...unreal ----plus I took a picture of my Bill validator and there are no led lights showing
I unplugged the machine ...removed the monitor and unplugged each of the 3 connectors that clip on the circuit board for the touch screen- then plugged them back in ..I hoped that might clear it , I don't know ---it didn't do anything. Now without the dots to touch ..it won't calibrate and I'm back to square one
Is there a way to exit the calibrate touchscreen thing without losing the old setting it had ?
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That's odd, it should have come up with a menu. When you power off the machine and turn it back on it still comes up with the touchscreen test?
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Hi Tilt ..I sent you a message ...yes ..I shut it off , removed the Bill Validator and the cash box , turned it back on , it initializes and for a fraction of a second shows the games the jumps either to coin jam touchscreen or ..straight to the calibrate touchscreen page. Sometime the deal button will work and exit me back to the jam touchscreen notice ..but the last 5 times it did not . Then I shut it off....put the Bill Val and cash box back in and turned it on again ..no difference ..I checked the board for the touchscreen ..everything is plugged in. Once the screen with the 3 tabs at the bottom comes up ..I have to turn the key ...when I do that , the black screen with the 2 line message comes up about touch the dot with no dots showing and there is no way to get out of that screen unless I shut off the game . Now ...I left that screen up and the game is on ..I'll see if letting it warm up makes a difference
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Sorry to sound desperate here guys but ..Is there anything I can do to restart the game and clear this ? Maybe ..if I unplugged and removed all the boards including that touchscreen board I mounted in with the Monitor today ..then plugged everything back in again ? Would that make a difference ? ....once I put all the boards in today , it did play for a few hours ...it was when I tried getting back into the program menu that it went crazy
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well ...I unplugged the game and slowly removed everything that Alan sent back to me today --Both of the CPU Boards and the touchscreen board next to the monitor and I let them sit unplugged for 15 min. Then ..I put everything back in and plugged them in ..turned it on ...No difference at all. It said initializing then the screen skipped straight to that calibrate touchscreen message again.
I give up
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Did the self test button get stuck when you pressed it in? Take a pair of needle nose pliers and push it in and pull it back out a couple of times and see what happens.
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Since couldn't sleep ..I decided to try it again but this time I left the Bill Validator and cash box out. ut . As soon as I powered it up ..it starts showing these screens now ...and when I turn the key (since that's the only option I can do) ..it goes to the Touch Screen calibrate message . But the touchscreen function will not work at all ..no more. All the plugs are in place on the TS board. But since the touch did work ...could the problem be with the board itself ? Maybe it would be cheaper and faster to just buy a new replacement touchscreen circuit board ? Or , would removing the Battery clear this and reset the game at this point ? If anyone has any ideas I would sure appreciate your help --these are the only 3 screens I see now ..
also - Thanks Tilt but , the button is fine and Alan (badbaud) just had all the boards at his shop and tested and repaired them. As soon as UPS delivered them back to me , I installed them and he helped me get it working ...then a few hours later , this started when I tried using the menu .
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I dusted off one of my 3802 MPU boards and put it in my machine, pressed & held the MPU self test button and powered it on. The only thing that happened is once it booted up it went to the operator menu screen like it should when you press the button. You can not get to the touchscreen calibration screen by pressing the MPU self test button and holding it in. I didn't think so, but couldn't rule it out 100% without trying.
So then I tried the same thing, but holding the jackpot reset key closed. When it booted I saw the initializing screen, then the attendant menu, then the touchscreen cal screen like you said yours did. So maybe your jackpot reset keyswitch is sticking? It should spring loaded and return to the off position when you release the key. You can check it with a multimeter to make sure it's opening and closing correctly. If you don't have a multimeter you could pull a wire off the switch and see if you still end up at the touchscreen calibration screen when you power the machine on. If so, check the yellow wire with a green stripe that goes to the switch for any damage from the switch back to the motherboard connector that it goes to. When you turn the keyswitch this line is grounded through the switch. If the insulation is on the yel/grn wire is damaged somewhere and the wire comes in contact with the cabinet it will ground the line and the MPU will see it the same way as if you turned the switch.
Now I see the machine isn't going straight to the touchscreen cal menu on it's own. How did you fix that or did it just stop doing it on its own?
The bill validator and the touchscreen are Netplex devices and use the same bus to communicate with the MPU. If one device goes bad it can cause all the devices on the bus to fail. With the bill validator transport removed the only thing left on the bus is the touchscreen in your machine. Just leave yours out for now since it doesn't work anyhow. You can leave the cash can in if you want, that doesn't matter.
Some error messages will clear when the door is opened and closed. Turn the machine on with the door closed, when those messages appear open the door, then close it. Did they clear or stay active?
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I tried it last night --
The Bill validator and cash box are not installed -- I closed the Door then plugged it in ...I'm showing the screens that came up in sequence ..to change the screen , I had to either turn the key and release it , or at one point it lets me press one of the game buttons ...but the touchscreen function will not work at all , no mater which screen is showing. So I also unplugged it ..and slid out the Monitor. I rechecked all the plugs going into the touchscreen Circuit board and made sure everything was plugged in ...then slid the Monitor back and tried plugging it i again ..all the same screens and no touchscreen function at all. And I tried using the white reset button , it never made a difference. Could the Touchscreen Circuit board be fried ? How much do those boards sell for and where can I buy one ? Maybe buying another board would be cheaper than paying UPS for shipping it and then returning it to me plus the repair costs. Any suggestions or ideas would really be appreciated guys
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Those are the screens that come up ..and only after using the key or button each time
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Just to Update you all -- As I posted on my other PE+ Thread ..that PE+game is now working thanks to Alan ...and this Game King is still dead. I still can't get rid of the calibrate touchscreen function and it will not offer me the Dot to touch ...and the touch function doesn't work anyway. Alan asked for pictures of the touch board and the tape around the screen ..I sent them to him but I'll post them here as well . on the inside there's a thick black bundle of wires close to the edge of the CRT Tube ..but that bundle is not anchored or tight against the edge anywhere else on the tube , just the top ...also ..there's a red LED lit on the touch board ...I don't know if either of those 2 things make a difference. Maybe something on the board is locked up or fried . I was wondering if it would be safe to remove the Battery , then put the battery back in and if that would reset everything to get rid of the calibrate touchscreen dead end I'm in ...But I don't know if removing the battery would create some new problems. There's no other way to reset it since that white button doesn't do anything ....maybe I put that green ground wire in the wrong place ?
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<<UPDATE >> 4/18 --- after looking into the options and what it would cost to ship my old CRT to Allen for repair , I called CERONIX and decided to just go for the upgrade. It didn't make sense to repair the old CRT since it had some Burn in and years of use . So , I bought a 15" Touch LCD Flatscreen replacement. Brand New , 4 year warranty and about $440 with shipping and it will be here on Tuesday !! They said converting my old 13" to the 15" is easy and they even supply a new Bezel ...not sure how I'll deal with the yellow banner that points out the Bill Validator on the right side of the screen , maybe I can shorten it or buy a replacement ? But once that's finished , all I need help with is how to change the bet amount from 1 cent to Quarters (that it's setup for) and , send my Bill Validator to Alan to have that fixed. Does anyone have the "Key" I could buy to change it to 25 cent bets ? I always thought this machine allowed you to change your bet amount while you were playing but ...someone told me I'll need a key. I guess that means it's not something the player can change when he feels like it. ...Another thing is , early on I was told that my game was an old version and the key lock on my board's Drawer was for that and I would never need a chip "key" ...so , that has me confused. Maybe it's worth buying the Key Chip since it will work on other upgraded games ?
I think I'd like to upgrade the game so , maybe I won't need the key .. ...I wish I knew that I could have looked into upgrading my Board from my 3802 to a newer 3902 before I sent it out for service but ..it's ok , I'm learning . If I do it . Anyone know where I can buy one of those boards ? Since this game has the 2 CPU "drawers" above the Monitor , does that mean I'll have to change both of "drawers" (all of those boards) PLUS the Backplane board ? Or just the larger bottom Drawer with 2 boards in it ? Since I'm upgrading the Monitor , it makes sense to upgrade the machine as much as I can since I plan on enjoying it for years to come ...The main question is Is it worth my upgrading to the 3902 ? please let me know what you think , thanks
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That's how I fix CRT monitors too. It's a little bit pricey but no more burnt in images and it uses less power and generates less heat too.
You won't have to modify your bill validator panel, the old one will fit just fine in the new bezel.
Can't say for sure if you need a keychip or not without knowing what software you currently have installed. Remember you were trying to get that information when everything went south? Real early software used the switch, later stuff keychips, so it all depends on what you have in it. Most of the early stuff was single denomination too. Later software became available in single and multi-denomination versions. Most later multi-denomination games let you select 12 different games per denomination.
If your bill validator is a WBA-10 or 11 tell Alan to toss it in the trash and get a WBA-13. You'll have to change the wiring harness that the transport plugs into, but it's an easy task. The WBA-13 is less obsolete than the 10/11 and accepts all the current currency. The 10/11's do not and only accept bills face up.
I'd recommend upgrading to 3902 MPU boards, then you can run newer SIMM based software and I-game software too if you want to. They're dirt cheap and readily available right now. I'm sure most of the vendors on the home page can set you up, or ebay if you want to roll the dice that you'll get one that works. The good thing about getting something from a NLG vendor is they'll stand behind it and take of any problems you may have with it. It may cost a little more, but peace of mind has value too.
You can't put 2 MPUs in your machine. The upper tray is your input/output (I/O) boards. They drive most all the machines peripheral devices, switches, button lights, hopper, meters, etc.
You can however keep a couple of MPUs loaded with different games and swap it along with the EEPROM chip on the mother board. Doing that keeps all your settings, credits, etc intact. But, you won't want to swap MPU boards back and forth between a 3802 and a 3902. That's because 3902s run a higher video resolution that your 3802 does. So if you swap back and forth between 3802 and 3902 you will have to re-adjust your screen position controls every time which is a pain in the ass. Stick with 3902's and toss the 3802 in a drawer for an emergency spare.
When you get your stuff back from Alan try again the get the program version information for your game software and I'll tell you what it is, what it can do, and what keychip you need if any.
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Thanks a million for that info !! I'm relieved to hear I won't have to try cutting that yellow banner or changing anything to make it fit. I'll hook it up as soon as I get it and post pics of what the program shows . Is there a certain 3902 board that I should look for ? Like , a 6.0 or special latest update ?
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Revisions should not matter. Slots4home has some on ebay right now I think with a game set already on them at a good price.
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Thanks Gents ..I just got off the phone with Slots4Home and , I want to confirm something --- If / when I buy the new 3902 MPU Board for my Game ...will I have to change the old Back Plane Board that's in there right now or , can my new 3902 Board still use that old backplane without losing any resolution quality or speed ? ...is there such a thing as am updated backplane board for the 3902 ?
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No. 3802/3902 boards both use the same motherboard (backplane). To upgrade from a 3902 to a 044 MPU you do have to change the motherboard, but you don't have to worry about that upgrade because they never made a 044 motherboard for these old 13" machines.
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That's GREAT News !! Thanks because 20 mi ago I closed the deal with him and he's shipping me this 5.3 version 3902 board with a #40 key chip -- https://www.ebay.com/itm/IGT-Game-King-3902-CPU-M0000944-tested-working-new-Battery-And-Free-Shipping/143579808901?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225074%26meid%3D001646ddb9bd460fa3357ffef039ecc4%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D143579808901%26itm%3D143579808901%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2060778&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/IGT-Game-King-3902-CPU-M0000944-tested-working-new-Battery-And-Free-Shipping/143579808901?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225074%26meid%3D001646ddb9bd460fa3357ffef039ecc4%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D143579808901%26itm%3D143579808901%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2060778&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507)
so as soon as it comes in , I can just slide the drawer in and start losing..uhh , winning :duh: [size=78%] LOL[/size]
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A year or so ago you would have paid that for the software alone.
Yes. You will have to clear a few errors, just follow the onscreen directions. The machine will eventually come up ready to play with default values. If you want to make changes to the defaults you may need to key it. You can change some setting without it, others require it. The machine will tell you if the keychip is required.
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Hi Tilt -- The Flat Screen came in !! ...I removed the old CRT and the old Bezel ....figured out that I had to slide the plasic "sign" off the assembly so I could get at the 3 or 4 screws that hold that to the bezel ...then took the new bezel , added that yellow "sign" box to te side and screwed it in ...then I slid the whole new LCD assembly in and powered up ---it said coin jam door open ...then I turned the key and ended up going to the Touchscreen calibrate screen ...but , it still won't give me 2 dots to touch. I exited that , removed and replaced the Quarter in the comparitor ...turned it back on and , the coin jam is gone and the game works BUT , I still can not calibrate the new LCD screen --maybe I don't have to because it is working fine ? The main problem now is - I can not close the door because the new bezel is pressing against the new Flatscreen way too much . I am worried about forcing the door closed and having the bezel damage the new touchscreen .So I unplugged it -- removed the screen and looked , found the Monitor table adjustments underneath but they are set all the way back as far as they can go. Maybe I should just dremel longer slots so the table can slide further back ? I thought They figured everything out for this so , maybe they sent me the wrong assembly ? But , that can't be since I sent them pictures of my Data Plate and of the unit. ...I removed the Bezel , closed the door and the game plays GREAT !!! ...but , it looks kinda toothless now with both the Bezel and that yellow Bill validator sign missing ..the case is open. Am I missing an adjustment ? Ever see anyone else run into this ?
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To adjust the depth of the monitor, you have to loosen a coupls screws, or nut under the monitor shelf.. You should have a long screw sticking out of the front of the monitor shelf that faces forward.. That is used as a stop for how far back the monitor shelf will slide.. You will have to remove your boards to get access to the nuts on the under side of the monitors shelf that lock it in place... I hope that makes sense to you...
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It's done !! ..figured it out and even though it is tight, it works and looks GREAT !! -- The shelf does not have a long screw sticking out BUT , it has the 4 nuts under the shelf and they were all at the max amount ..except for 1 that still had a tiny amount of room still --so I loosened that 1 and tried again , and it just barely closed. I played all the games and they work but that Penny setting has to go , ..I can drop quarters in the game and it reads them as pennies and gives me a one cent credit each time lol ...also ..I tried to cash out ..it won't activate the hopper and gives me a message that the attendant will pay me . So , I tried pushing the white MPU reset button and I get only one main menu (you can see it in one of the pics below) and none of the options let me turn on the Hopper or reset the bet amount. My 3802 board has a real key lock hooked up to 2 wires and I was told that was the early way you programmed the game before they created the key chips so ...should I try jumping those 2 wires ? Also ...I slid in the Bill Validator and the money box ..it won't light up and will not take any bills ...and in the menu , I didn't see any option for that either . I tried holding the white button in for 10 sec ..no difference , same limited menu. Plus ...the touchscreen works great but I can not get it to give me the 2 dots to calibrate it . Could this new flatscreen work differently and not use the dot system ? .
So that's the Good news , it's WORKING and the Flatscreen look fantastic . Now I have a spare 13" CRT that works except for the touchscreen so , I'll box it up and hide it - just in case
The main remaining issues are --
>Re-setting the Bet amount
>getting the Bill Validator to work
>getting the Hopper to work and pay out.
Also ..as you know ,I bought a new 3902 board with games on it from Slots4Home and I should have it this week sometime .
Is there a chance that once I slide the new 3902 Tray in place , my Hopper and Bill Validator will start working ? He's sending me the #40 keychip with it , once I learn how to use that (kinda spooks me a little , worried about static destroying something new or bending a pin) ( and yes , I'm afraid of these now LOL) , will that give me the option of not only changing the Bet amount back to Quarters but also turning on the Hopper and Bill Validator ?
Would I be better off just buying a new Bill Validator ? And if I buy a new one that's updated , will it slide in the old frame or be a new nightmare requiring new sheetmetal and a new wire harness installed ? After all the drama and money spent on these 2 , if putting a new design Bill unit in is a big deal , then maybe I'm better off just blocking off the slot and forgetting about it ...which I'd hate to do since , it would be cool to have the game complete and everything working .
Gents - as always , thanks for understanding that I'm new to all this and helping me learn ...you've been really patient with me and I appreciate it. I'll post all the pictures I just took so you can see how it looks .
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also ..I can't figure out how to stop that green light from flashing.
But overall -- I am THRILLED with how it's turning out
and eventually , Lisa will stop mumbling $400 (price of the LCD Monitor) and I know she'll enjoy it LOL :EmoticonHelp4:
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Just remind the wife that the new monitor has the warranty. Those game with the flat screen LCD monitor run you up to a $1000 and up depending on location. It looks great.
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from the pictures it indicates you have a WBA 11 unit, you can run a test on it and see if the transport and head work, very easy to do this, first see if the two red LEDS are on (right side ,above the switches) if they are on then the unit is getting power from the power supply. next, remove the transport unit put switches 1-2-3 and 8 in the off position (down) now insert the unit into the machine, remove the cash can, and apply power to the machine, now reach in and turn switch 8 up to the on position, the unit should cycle briefly, you can now insert money into the unit, if it is working it should pull in the bill and run it through the unit and deposit it the area where the cash can was! be aware that the WBA 11 will only accept money in one direction, bills have to be face up and the top of the presidents head has to be facing to the right. this will tell you if the unit is working. if it is bad, I would recommend an upgrade to a WBA 12, it has 4 way acceptance and will accept most of the newer money. only thing you would have to change is the harness plug on the shelf assembly, which comes out pretty easy, usually two screws on the back wall and one or two on the left side wall exterior.
If you decide to upgrade to a WBA12, I have the tested transport, head, software and harness available.
Hope this helps
Jim
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Yeah, the monitor shelf has to be adjusted so it's back about as far as it can go. Also make sure that you scraped any gasket material off the frame that was left from the CRT bezel. Now that you have a working touchscreen get the game version information. Press the MPU test button, then Accounting->Program Version Accounting. A blank page will appear and after 15 seconds or so it will populate with information. Post the M000XXXX and G000XXXX numbers or just post a picture of the screen.
You'll need a key or keychip to enable/disable the hopper and to change the denomination.
I've never seen a 4 stage candle on one of these machines. One way to get it to quit blinking is to remove the bulb.
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Thanks Tilt -- Well , Not really a good day ....
The new 3902 board , Tray and #40 Keychip came in from Slots$Home ..no damage and they came fast...Darryl is great to deal with !!
I carefully removed them from the static proof bubblewrap and called Darryl . He stayed on the phone and talked me through the keychip and programming.
I removed the base chip ..installed the #40 keychip (no legs bent and the half moon detent matched with the base) . I slid the new 3902 tray with the key in and we set the denom to 25cents , then disabled the Bill Validator[/size] . I then exited the key menu and shut down the game ...I took the keychip out and put the base chip back in , slid the tray back in & turned it on ...it cycled through all the color screens like normal , then said wait while initializing - then a message came up about an EPROM problem . I turned the key , that message left and a screen came up saying "Processor Board Mismatch" ..Darryl told me to turn the key again and it went to a coin jam screen . I tried changing the quarter in my coin unit ..no difference . Then Darryl said my coin unit is a really old one ..so I asked if maybe the new 3902 board won't work with this old coin comparitor ...he said it should still work with it . Now remember ..all yesterday we played the machine even though it was set for 1cent the comparitor had a quarter in it and I'd drop in a quarter and it would credit me for 1 penny ...but all the games worked with the old 3802. Here are some pics ..more to follow
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Part 2 -- So Darryl asked me to remove the Tray again and put the Keychip back in ..and then slide the tray back , turn the game back on and go through the whole process again. I did ..The screen came up saying to reset and reboot everything ..did it all and then powered down , removed the keychip and put the base chip back ...stid the Tray back in and powered up ...color screens again , then initializing please wait . At one point I ended up with a black screen and a thing white line at the top with some garbled image --
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Is your new 3902 board setup for coin in? That’s done by enabling the hopper? I know you set the Denom, but if the game doesn’t know it’s setup for coin by turning on the hopper, you may get that error message.
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Part 3 --Turned it on and off ..that screen went away and I went back to the coin jam message . Yes ..I forgot to mention the Hopper was enabled :)
I know I asked this before but , Darryl had me send him pictures of my 3802 Motherboard (back plane) ...he compared it with his 3902 motherboard and he said it doesn't match his. He asked me to post this problem here to see if any of you have ever run into this problem before. Maybe my old 3802 back plane motherboard is way too old for the 3902 ? I'm hoping the problem is something stupid and easy that I'm missing here ...here are pictures of my 3802 Motherboard.
and in the other shot ...you can see the new games on the 3902 board are showing behind the coin jam message so ...the board is working , but for some reason the game won;t talk with the coin comparitor and it thinks there's a jam.
Any ideas gents ?
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EEPROM and Processor ID Mismatch error messages are 100% normal when you swap a MPU board. After you follow the onscreen directions (turn key, press and hold etc) the EEPROM will get updated with the game and processor id information. Coin in jam is not a normal error, but you've had problems with that on your 3802 board too, so it's not likely it's the new processor causing it. Try re-seating your I/O card tray and see if that makes any difference.
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Thanks for coming in on this and yes ...I slid that upper Tray out and then slid it back in --when I was in Key program mode , I enabled the Hopper , set it for 25 cents and disabled the Bill Transport the saved it ---But I've had EPROM and even RAM failure messages besides the coin jam ...but the Jam seems to be the most persistent notice
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Part 3 --Turned it on and off ..that screen went away and I went back to the coin jam message . Yes ..I forgot to mention the Hopper was enabled :)
I know I asked this before but , Darryl had me send him pictures of my 3802 Motherboard (back plane) ...he compared it with his 3902 motherboard and he said it doesn't match his. He asked me to post this problem here to see if any of you have ever run into this problem before. Maybe my old 3802 back plane motherboard is way too old for the 3902 ? I'm hoping the problem is something stupid and easy that I'm missing here ...here are pictures of my 3802 Motherboard.
and in the other shot ...you can see the new games on the 3902 board are showing behind the coin jam message so ...the board is working , but for some reason the game won;t talk with the coin comparitor and it thinks there's a jam.
Any ideas gents ?
The reason the motherboard looks different is because it is. I'm sure he's comparing it to one from a 17" GK cabinet. Your OLDER 13" GK does not use the same motherboard as the newer 17" cabinets, but it is completely compatible with a 3902 MPU. See my previous post about re-seating the IO card tray.
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Thanks for coming in on this and yes ...I slid that upper Tray out and then slid it back in --when I was in Key program mode , I enabled the Hopper , set it for 25 cents and disabled the Bill Transport the saved it ---But I've had EPROM and even RAM failure messages besides the coin jam ...but the Jam seems to be the most persistent notice
That's probably because you told the machine to clear ram and clear eeprom when you keyed it (answered yes to all three questions). So then yes RAM error and EEPROM error messages are 100% normal too in that case.
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Then maybe the new 3902 board doesn't like my antique coin comparitor ?
Here's a picture of my coin unit--
Also ...here's a picture of Darryls 3902 backplane and what you're saying explains the difference ...I thought (it looked like) mine was a larger board and the i/o slid into the upper part and the MPU Board slid into the lower part of the board ----was I wrong ? Maybe because of the shelf being there I didn't know (couldn't see) there are actually 2 different boards on the back wall of my game and not one big one ? ...So ...the problem is not with the backplane ...but for some new reason , the 3902 does not like my coin unit
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Hi Tilt ..yes , I did slide out the upper i/o tray and then slide it back in and checked all the plugs. Then ..I thought I'd put the old 3802 Board back in so at least Lisa can play ...that was a mistake , now that board won't work either . Darryl said I'd have to use the #40 keychip on it to reprogram it now otherwise it won't work. So ...we got to play it with the new screen yesterday but ..now it's dead again.
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Quote from Tilt -- That's probably because you told the machine to clear ram and clear eeprom when you keyed it (answered yes to all three questions). So then yes RAM error and EEPROM error messages are 100% normal too in that case.
ok .. how do I fix that now and reprogram the Ram & Eprom ?
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Yes, your motherboard is a single large board and the I/O board plugs into the top connector and the MPU the lower two connectors.
That coin comparitor CC-16D was used in all game king/I-game machines and S2000 spinning reel slots too, It's completely compatible with your 3902 board and is not the cause for your coin in jam error anyhow. You can unplug it and the machine will not care, but the coins won't be accepted either. The coin in jam comes fromthe optics below it (black plastic looking thing with a connector plugged in on the left side). Pull the compartor out of it's plastic retainer clips and inspect/clean out the slots in the optic block. It may have dust, a piece of debris, or something else blocking the optics path. Also check that connector that the comparitor and optics connect to on the right side of the door by the hinge. Pull them apart and reconnect them. Same with where it connects to the I/O tray. It's the long connector on the bottom left row.
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ok .. how do I fix that now and reprogram the Ram & Eprom ?
Follow the onscreen directions.
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ok . thanks , I'll try
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Part1 -- I started in on it again around 10 last night and kept at it until 4am . I have no idea how many times I used the Keychip and re-installed the basechip then kept trying different settings , combinations , enabling and disabling functions , cleaning contacts and plugs ...looking things up on the internet trying to figure out what things like that Bally deal was ...I tried my best but , it wasn't good enough !! Some of the menu options offer serial number or port numbers and , I am too afraid to touch anything on those screens and left them alone. I did use the "Test Hopper" function and it spit 10 quarters at me (door was open) so , at least I know the Hopper works lol . I took a few shots so you can see ...but now , I'm hitting the sack ..I'm done for today
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no matter what I changed ...what I did ..I always ended up with that coin jam message. The only good thing is , I am now VERY good at changing that Key and Base Chip without bending any pins. I don't think there' any problems with any of the hardware , we know the 3902 Boards were working when Darrel mailed them and , the whole game was playing 2 nights ago with the old 3802 board (except for the Bill Validator and Hopper) ..there's something I'm missing here but , I can't find any posts where someone else ran into the same issues
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Scroll up to my "Part 1" Post above then read down to this post so everything is in context ..thanks -- One thing that does have me wondering though ...on the "LIMIT SETUP" page , the "COIN PAYOUT" is set at Disabled and I can not figure out how to change that-- or the "Jackpot reset to credit limit " ...both of those are Disabled ...but , I enabled the Hopper ---could this be the cause of the Coin Jam message ? I read on other posts that even the Bill Validator can cause coin jam messages so ...maybe ?
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I think part if not all of your problem lay with the enabling of the setting I have circled with the arrow pointing at it. The other thing I would do while your setting up the game is to increase the credits setting to the max allowed. Double check you coin optics and coin comparitor plug.
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Ok, so after all of that where are we at? Both the 3802 and 3902 boards giving you a Coin In Jam error message?
Put away the keychip for now, there's no software settings that will cause you to get a coin-in jam error message, but I'm sure you learned something from staying up all night tinkering with them.
You have a hardware problem, but before I can help you any further I need to know the answer to my question above. I'm also not sure if you checked any of the stuff I told you to check either?
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Tilt. Sounds like you need to get him on the phone and go through the setup together.
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Tilt. Sounds like you need to get him on the phone and go through the setup together.
Then nobody else who may be following this learns anything. I made a youtube video for him I'm going to post shortly.
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Hiram I don't do this very often, but I made a youtube video for you to check your optics. I'm assuming that the coin-in jam is present on both the 3802 and 3902 boards.
http://youtu.be/zOpEU46fSXI (http://youtu.be/zOpEU46fSXI)
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If you scroll back to my Post #21 , right after I got the 3802 boards back from Badbaud , the coin in jam went away after I removed the cash box and the game started working. I was able to play , the game registered each quarter I dropped in as a penny (since that was what it was set for) but all the games played fine.
Then I lost the touchscreen and it locked up when I tried using the menu later on (when I tried to get the program info) and once I changed the Monitor , the coin jam message with the 3802 was still gone and touchscreen worked again and the game worked great (without the bill Val and cashbox) ..that was post #36.
The coin jam came back again once I took out the 3802 and slid the 3902 tray in, Here's an old picture of the 3802 board working ---
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Hiram I don't do this very often, but I made a youtube video for you to check your optics. I'm assuming that the coin-in jam is present on both the 3802 and 3902 boards.
[url]http://youtu.be/zOpEU46fSXI[/url] ([url]http://youtu.be/zOpEU46fSXI[/url])
Great video Tilt. Very informative.
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Thanks for the Video ...I learned a lot about the game I will check that and even though it has been accepting coins , I never removed the coin comparator to look down the slot for dust. I did check all the connectors you pointed out so , they're ok
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Thanks for the Video ...I learned a lot about the game I will check that and even though it has been accepting coins , I never removed the coin comparator to look down the slot for dust. I did check all the connectors you pointed out so , they're ok
If you want to remove the coin optics for cleaning, you will find it easier to remove the whole metal comparitor Mounting bracket to get at the rear screws hold the coin optics.
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If you scroll back to my Post #21 , right after I got the 3802 boards back from Badbaud , the coin in jam went away after I removed the cash box and the game started working. I was able to play , the game registered each quarter I dropped in as a penny (since that was what it was set for) but all the games played fine.
Then I lost the touchscreen and it locked up when I tried using the menu later on (when I tried to get the program info) and once I changed the Monitor , the coin jam message with the 3802 was still gone and touchscreen worked again and the game worked great (without the bill Val and cashbox) ..that was post #36.
The coin jam came back again once I took out the 3802 and slid the 3902 tray in, Here's an old picture of the 3802 board working ---
I got all that, but you've done so much random stuff I'm trying to figure out where you're at now. Last nite you said you put the 3802 board back in and had problems with it but didn't say what. So are you getting coin-in jam with both MPU boards now? Sometimes you can have intermittent problems, something loose, dirty, a chafed wire, etc may work one minute and fail the next. Removing a cash can has absolutely nothing to do with the coin-in jam error, but opening or closing a door, vibration from doing it etc could cause a wire or connector to make or not make contact or a chafed wire to come in contact metal etc. So the fact that it worked for awhile with the 3802 board really doesn't mean anything at all at this point if it has a coin-in jam error now too. If the 3802 works fine, then there's a possibility the problem is with your 3902 board. That's why I'm asking. Please answer my question or I'll go find something better to do.
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_ When I put the old 3802 board back it immediately said Ram or Eprom problem and would not go further- it did not say coin jam ..so , I closed it and removed the old 3802 and put the 3902 back in and stopped . Thanks Tilt & Amechanic ...I already popped out the comparator and couldn't see anything wrong ...I checked the coin slot and cleaned it out ...didn't even see any dust but still pulled a paper towel strip through to make sure and then looked to see none of the paper was ripped off in there . I followed all the wires that flex when the door opens , I looked for any evidence of a wire being crimped or bent , nothing ...I double checked all the connectors you showed incl all the I/O plugs and every one I could reach to make sure they were all seated ..all wires and connectors look good , no visible damage. Then I looked at the menu as you explained ...I posted pictures of the pages. I also found that one page some of the 0's and 1's keep flipping...I'll post a short video of that next so you can see it ..just in case that could be a clue . As AMechanic said ...I will change the values but before I do the keychip dance again , I want to make a list of what you gents tell me to set values at .. ...and I agree , that "Cash Payout" being disabled worries me but I don't know how to reset that ..even when I'm in the keychip prog menu
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Are the flipping numbers a problem ? -- https://youtu.be/TYd5xfwC-Qg (https://youtu.be/TYd5xfwC-Qg)
also ...after I pulled the coin unit and scrolled through the menu , I closed the door as you said, just in case the issue would reset itself ...but , it didn't ..it's still giving the same message
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Ok then, so you don't know if the 3802 board has a coin in jam error message then or not. You really need to put that board in and see. When you swap from one MPU board to another it's normal to get some error messages. Just like you did when you put the 3902 board in. Simply turn the jackpot reset key and follow the on screen directions for each error.
The flipping numbers are normal and they don't have a thing to do with the coin-in jam error message. Forget about them and other screens, they don't have anything to do with it either.
What does matter is the Coin-in 1 (A) and Coin-in 2 (B) values like I pointed out in the video. They should be 1's, you're are 0's. That means the MPU board doesn't see either one of the optics. There's not a whole lot of things that would cause that. Either something blocking the light between the optical emitters and receivers, you said that's clear so we'll eliminate that. Next thing would be wiring/connectors going from the optics to the I/O board. You said you checked those and they're good, so we'll eliminate that too for now (do inspect the wires good to make sure one isn't chafed somewhere and possible shorting out the frame somewhere). That leaves the optics board, I/O board, motherboard, or MPU board suspect. You don't have a spare optics board, I/O board or motherboard, so the only thing you can do is swap the MPU board. If the 3802 works then that means the the things you don't have spares for are good. If it doesn't then one of them is bad.
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I understand ....So I will put the 3802 board back in.
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I slid the 3802 Board back in and powered up ..The EEprom message came up , I turned the key and the full screen "GAME ID MISMATCH ERROR" message came up ..I turned the key again and got a black screen ...nothing worked , the side key , white reset button , nothing ...so , I turned it off and back on , went through it all again exactly the same but then after the "Game ID Mismatch" message, it told me to hold the white reset button for 2 to 3 seconds ..then it said initializing then switched to the full game screen with the "Coin In Jam" message ...I pushed the white reset and got a menu screen . When I exit the menu ..the coin Jam comes up but it also says " must set denomination to non blank value" ....that's a different message than my 3902 board gives
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Ok, that's normal except for the black screen. Sounds like it locked up for some reason and cleared when you power cycled it. That's pretty unusual. I think you're learning the general process though. Turn the reset key (sometimes more than once) follow any directions (press and hold) and repeat if another error message follows.
If you noticed your screen position shifted. That's what I was talking about in an earlier post when switching back and forth between a 3802 and 3902 board. From the game mismatch error screen I got the numbers I asked you for a couple of times too. You have Game King 4.0 multi-denomination software installed on the 3802 board. GK 4.X was the last all EPROM version that could be ran on a 3802 board. G.5.X uses EPROM and SIMM cards and requires a 3902 board. The 3902 is backwards compatible with 3802 software so you could run that software on your 3902 board if you wanted to. Your GK4.0 software does not make use of the keyswitch on the front of the MPU, it uses a keychip (Key 17). You can key it with your Key 40, but only if you clear the RAM and EEPROM too (answer yes to all three menu questions). I call it the nuclear option as it wipes out all your game settings. That's not real convenient if you just want to key it to change a single setting, so if you intend on using that software too you'll want to get a Key 17.
The message about setting the denomination is normal after clearing RAM/EEPROM. It will clear when you set the denomination. Options verification required is just an informational message. You'll see that when the game has been cleared. Usually it will be by itself and have an OK box that you touch and it goes away. You don't have that because of the other error messages.
Ok, so that leaves us with the Coin-in Jam error and from the diagnostics screen you can see both Coin in A and Coin in B values are 0's and they should be 1's. Since both MPUs show that it's pretty unlikely both of them are bad. That leaves the optics, the wiring, or the I/O board as the likely causes. Of the three I've never seen optics go bad before, wiring is unlikely if you inspected it real well, so that leaves the I/O board as the most probable cause. There's another test you can do to further narrow it down, but it will require making a couple of jumper wires and installing them in a connector which will bypass the coin optics. Is that something you're comfortable doing? If so, I'll either make another video or post some pictures showing what needs to be done.
The only thing I cant answer right now is how you had it working at one time and now it doesn't. The only thing I can think of that hasn't been looked at is possibly a thermal intermittent problem with the I/O card. Try leaving the machine on for awhile and see if the error clears after the machine warms up.
In the meantime you could look into the bill validator a little bit more. There's 4 connectors that come off the connector in the back of the housing. One of them is the power (red/black wires), the other is the netplex (communications wiring), a black/white that is the LEDs on the bill entry bezel, and the last one isn't used. Make sure all of those are connected. If you have a multimeter you can check the red/black wires for voltage. Should be 13 VDC on it.
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The problem is sort of solved now ..and by accident ..all thanks to this strip of paper I forgot to remove while testing and moving things around tonight !!!!
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See paragraph #3 in the post above.
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Tilt , thank you for the Video ...it's a lot harder to describe by typing -- Phone Calls and Video are always the next best thing to hands on and your Video worked. I spoke with Darryl last night and he told me to try using the Key Chip again and disable the Coin , Bill and Hopper on the 3902 board and see if the coin jam came up --- It did NOT come up. So I used the Key again and enabled only the Coin Comparitor and the coin jam showed up again ---so I pushed the white reset and got that page you showed that has the 0's & 1's and shows my Coin Comparator at 0 ---I tried moving wires while watching to see if the number changed to "1" , I even pulled out the comparator while it was still plugged in , checked all the connections again (while watching the numbers) ...then I ripped a strip of paper and stuck that down the coin slot to see if that would do anything ..it did nothing but , I forgot to take it back out while I checked all the plugs to the I/O ...then , I shut the machine and turned it back on. Whenever I do that , there's always some click-clunk sound from inside the door and I figured it was the coin unit and not a big deal --This time the game TRIED to do the click-clunk but the paper I forgot in there stopped it and I saw the paper move -- THAT did something because the next message was telling me to recheck settings and had a big yellow "OK" box , the coin jam was gone !! I hit OK and , the game popped up and it played !!! ----so , I shut it off, did the Key trick again , put the 3902 back in and slid that paper strip back in the coin slot , took my time enabling the Coin , the Hopper , set the 25cents and picked a few games, raised all the limits as AMechanic mentioned .. then left the program menu removed the paper strip and ...that's IT ..The Game now works , it's set for 25cents and the Hopper pays out -- all thanks to a strip of paper that I forgot to remove !! I don't know what moves in that unit or , if I have to replace that comparator or what to do now but ..that's where the issue was . Now all I have left to fix is the Bill Validator and maybe figure out if I can remove one chip and add a different chip that offers me more blackjack and reel slots because right now there are no reel games and only one Blackjack -- Your focus on the Coin unit was a huge help and thank you for not writing me off and walking away....something I was honestly thinking of doing myself after that. Darryl told me that he has another customer right now dealing with the same problem so ...hopefully this long thread will help someone in the future. It was worth it and hopefully the game will last for a few years now . ...the Bill Validator is next but I think that will be easy to deal with . Thanks a million
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I'm glad to hear it's working, at least for now. I'm still not convinced that you don't have a thermal intermittent problem with your I/O card. Time will tell. If you turn the machine on and the error is back you'll know. Don't do anything if it is, just let it sit there and see if it goes away by itself after the machine has some time to warm up.
Disabling the coin comparitor in the game software cures the symptom, but doesn't fix the problem. When it's disabled the game software simply ignores the coin in status. I was going to suggest that as a temp fix, but it wouldn't help you because you have no way of putting credits on the machine then since your bill validator doesn't work either.
The click clunk noise you hear is the coin diverter solenoid energizing. It's located on the coin comparitor mounting bracket. It's purpose is to divert coins to a chute that goes into the slot machine stand when the hopper gets full. They sometimes chatter, hum, and make themselves a nuisance for home users, so many (including me) simply just disconnect it. There's a two wire connector that goes to it. Just separate it and no more diverter solenoid noises.
Once you get all the hardware problems resolved you can look into different game software. You probably won't find one set that has everything you want to play, so you may want to get another 3902 board with different software that you can swap out. There are ways of doing it without all the errors and losing your settings. That's a discussion for another time though.