New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S2000 and Vision Games => Topic started by: octoolguy on April 14, 2020, 04:08:29 PM
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I don't mean to jump into someone else's problem but I'm having almost the exact same problem. I have not done any resetting with any chips. My cmos battery went dead because I had the machine turned off and after replacing both batteries on the motherboard, I now get the "display passes self test" message and the bill validator keeps recycling. I can't get it to go past this point. I have 2 yellow and 1 green LED's lit on the main board. I ordered a 17 and a 97 chip but haven't received them yet. I'm hoping that I won't need them but if I do, I will have them. My machine is the Double Diamond Deluxe with the reels that either go up or go down depending on the arrow direction. I'm new to all this so I hope I haven't made a fool of myself.
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Does the message change when you open the door? If yes, with door open turn JP key 3x and follow directions on display push button for 3 seconds, close door
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Post a picture of your MPU.
Want to see the chips installed and the battery areas.
Split to new post.
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I think I have isolated the problem to the bill validator. The yellow light never comes on and the validator just keeps recycling over and over. The display reads "display self-test passes" but it never goes to the memory test as it used to. All of this has come about since replacing the batteries on the motherboard. The machine used to function perfectly but to save on electricity I started turning it off at night or when we weren't playing it. It sat long enough that the cmos battery went dead and I noticed the large main battery had started to deteriorate so I replaced both of them. Now, I have this problem and can't figure out why.
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Post a picture of your MPU.
Want to see the chips installed and the battery areas.
Split to new post.
Is the MPU what I am calling the motherboard? I'll have to take it out. Back in a bit.
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The board in the tray is the MPU. The motherboard is the one that the tray plugs into on the back wall of the cabinet. And make sure the power is off when removing or installing it.
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Here it is.
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check your yellow battery, it may be in backwards?? can't really tell when I enlarge it.
Jim
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check your yellow battery, it may be in backwards?? can't really tell when I enlarge it.
Jim
YOu have a sharp eye. You might just be right. Thanks.
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Good eye Jim.
That's why we ask for pictures.
Also you can remove the green battery it is not required and causes problems down the road.
Let us know how it works out.
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Well folks, we are making some headway. I reinstalled the coin battery. Correctly this time I might add. Now, the machine goes through the boot process but stops and flashes over and over "door open M, closure B". I don't know where to go from here. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all the help so far.
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If that is flashing then try adjusting the photo eyes on the door..
Take a piece of masking tape and put it on the outside of the door where the optics are. Place tape on both the door and the cabinet. Open the door and put the latch in the closed position. Now mark where the door optics are on the masking tape you put on the outside of the door. Next close and latch the door extend the mark you made on the door to the masking tape on the cabinet. Open the door and carefully loosen the screws holding the cabinet optics and move the optic so that it lines up with the tape mark you just made.
See if that does anything.
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I noticed the large main battery had started to deteriorate...
More than likely this is the cause of your door open m problem. The leaking varta battery damaged circuit traces used by the door detection circuitry. Try the alignment procedure, maybe you'll be lucky, but I wouldn't bet on it.
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A new problem has cropped up now. I get a reel tilt message and the reels turn very slowly. I found that I can get rid of most of the error messages by raising and lowering the door latch button. None of this ever happened before I let the machine sit for a year or so. So any of this be caused by just the dampness in our air. I'm a mile from the ocean but the machine is in my office indoors. Also, someone mentioned damage from the Varta battery. Would it be visible to the naked eye? I looked but don't see any signs of broken or corroded traces. I'm a total newbie to slot repairs but I have a good basic understanding of mechanics and some electronics. I'm able to follow along here but I do appreciate it if you can be really clear on what you are suggesting. I'm not up on all the nomenclature and the component names. GO SLOW. I'm also 77 years old.
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Alignment will cause the problems you described.
Try slightly not closing the latch all the way down leave it push it all the way down and pick it up by an 1/8 inch and see if it works
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I tried that. I have lifted the door, opened and closed the door and done everything I can think of. I depressed the little button and held it for 3 seconds and then turned the barrel key. The reels spun fast but then slowed down again. Now, I have 3 error messages, door M, closure B and general reel tilt. I'm really at a loss.
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Okay, here's the latest. I turned it on, it went through the boot process and spun the wheels but then they came to a very slow roll and I got a droning sound. I opened the door, pushed the tiny little button on the MBU and held it for 3 seconds. Then I turned the barrel key once and the droning stopped and the wheels spun. I closed the door and it seemed like it used to. I started feeding coins. Some would drop all the way through into the tray. When I got it to say 3 credits, I spun the wheels. They spun but I didn't get any payoffs. I did that 3 or 4 times. Each time, some of the coins dropped straight through to the tray but some stayed. I was able to play maybe 6 times and then all of a sudden the wheels went back into that slow roll and the droning sound came out of the speakers again. So, that's where I'm at. It seems to want to work as it should but just can't seem to find it's groove.
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I'm in Huntington Beach, Cal Anybody know anybody close to me? I'd sure love to have someone look at this thing.
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All of your issues are happening because the main door is not fully sensing that it's closed. That is solved with alignment of the optics like I described or the MPU was damaged from the old leaking green battery.
That is why we don't replace that battery it ruins boards.
Yours however sounds more like alignment the optics are turning on and off. That's why coins are dropping through and reels are tilting etc.
Did you try the alignment?
Since you said moving the lever up just a touch did not work try moving the optic on the cabinet 1/16 to 1/8 inch up. If you tried the alignment and this doesn't work most likely the MPU has gone bad.
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I haven't done the sensor realignment yet. I'm going to do it tomorrow. Thanks so much. I have been watching a series of 4 youtube videos done by Ryengoth. He says he's on this forum but I can't locate him. Anyway, I think you are right about the door adjustment. I'll let you know. Thanks again. I'll see you tomorrow.
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since you can get the machine to load the program, you should be able to get into the test mode, use the small button located near the LEDS , press it one time, you should see the accounting menu in the display, two end buttons should be lit, pressing either one will advance or reverse the direction through the menus. press until you stop at test #4 , press the spin button to enter into that menu,you should see the input test prompt, now press the bet one button until you see the processor test inputs, press the spin button to get into that menu, now press the bet one button until you see the main door and a 0 in the display, now close the door and slowly bring down the latch assembly, at some point the 0 should start to alternate to a 1, this is where the latch should be when fully at the rest position, change you optics to reflect this.
two other items could cause this door open problem, the cash can door switch, and the belly door switch, both should be bypassed, I have seen the belly door switch cause people to pull out their hair because of intermittent operation.
by the way, to clear a general reel tilt, all you have to do is open the door and turn the jackpot reset key one time.
if you are still having problems with the door optics and you suspect the board being damaged, I sell repaired boards.
Jim
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Thanks for your help Jim, I have a bit of a problem though. It seems that some/all of my buttons don't light up. The spin button does light up but it's the only one. I am able to access the menu you speak of but at that point I can't get any farther.
Edit: Here are the error codes I was able to get:
Bill Validator Door = 0 & 1 very fast
Low Battery 1 = 1
Low Battery 2 = 0
Main Door = 0
Coin Drop Door = 0 & 1 slow back and forth
Logic Board = 0 & 1 slow back and forth
Reel optic 1 = 0
Reel optic 2 = 1
Reel optic 3 = 1
Reel optic 4 = 0
Reel optic 5 = 0
There are only 3 wheels
Reel Mechanism Disconnect = 0
I have been able to get the machine to function through a few cycles of dropping quarters in. Some stay, some drop through. If I can get 3 to stay, then I can spin the reels. It even paid off a couple of times but eventually it goes into the slow roll of the reels and I get the "tilt" error message. I truly get the feeling that since this machine sat unused for quite a while, it became oxidized in many areas of the mechanism. I'm not sure what to do to clean it up but I know at least that it does work correctly at times now. That's a good thing. I would greatly appreciate any advice on what to do next. By the way, I'm not sure any of the buttons on the left side have ever had working lights in them. Is it possible to fix that at some point in time? I really want to get my machine back into "like new" condition. Cosmetically, it's in great shape. Just being cantankerous right now. As stated above the main door problem has never been an issue before but I am going to do the adjustment to the sensor. I don't have any idea where any of the other sensors might be. Also, the bill validator will suck a bill in but it spits it right back out. There is never a light on in it either. I know from watching other videos that it should light up yellow when it is in the "acceptance" mode but mine doesn't. Not sure if this has anything to do with it not working.
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well the buttons doesn't have to be lit for it to work! bulb could be bad, play around going through the menus, you won't hurt anything as long as you don't hit the max bet button, this button is usually used to enter the change you make.
Jim
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qbert, I tried to adjust the sensor on the cabinet side. It's the one mounted to the bracket that holds the white push button switch correct? Well, there is no adjustment. The screw holes are not slotted. I was able to get a tiny bit of movement by loosening the two screws both on the sensor and the 2 screws on the mounting bracket for the push button switch. I got the "main door" to go back and forth between 0 and 1 but I can't get it to stay on the 1. Now what?
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No the adjustment is made on the cabinet optic.That one will slide.
Steady back and forth 0 and 1 is what you want.
If you lift the door handle it should just stay steady 0.
That how you know it's working.
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If I'm understanding you correctly, the cabinet side is the one that is held in place on the push button bracket? There is absolutely no adjustment slot on that sensor. I can post a picture if necessary.
But, with that said, I'm getting a slow 0-1 read out. I am still getting a reel tilt error. Sometimes it's 1, sometimes it's 2 or sometimes it's all 3 but I was able to actually play the game a few times before it went into tilt mode. I'm also still having problems with the coins dropping through but it's getting better. I have got to figure out why my bill validator/acceptor isn't working too. It will pull the bill in but then it comes right back out. I've tried it with many different bills. Some new, some old. No difference. Any ideas?
Thanks again for your patience. I know I'm old but I still love figuring things out. Computers generally give me no trouble but this is a whole different kettle of fish.
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The optics are the small black plastic items with two small wires going to them. Two screws hold it. It looks just like the one on the door.
Not in a position I can send a picture now.
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Optics. The one under the white doorswitch can be adjusted up and down.
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Mine doesn't look exactly like that. Here are pics of mine. There is no up/down adjustment slots. Only the holes where the screws go through with no wiggle room.
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Yeah, there's some differences between different models. Mine has the ticket printer in the topbox, yours is next to the third reel. Either way though the one mounted next to the white door switch should be slotted so you can loosen the screws and move it up or down as necessary.
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That's what I thought too but NOT! If the sensor bracket, the black plastic piece was turned the other direction then the holes are slotted. I might have to monkey around and see if I can change the holder. I hate to do too much alteration But, I get the feeling that no two of these things were built the same. Sort of like RV's.
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Now that I look at it, even if I did that, it would be adjustable in and out like the one on the door. Not up and down. Very strange that it is like this because it's got to be spot on when the door is closed with no slop at all. I am able to get the MAIN DOOR message to go back and forth between 0 and 1 and from what I was told above, that is the way it needs to be. Now if I could just get past the Reel Tilt error and keep the reels spinning, that would be great.
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I cant really tell from your photo, but it looks like there may be a slot in the black plastic? Have you loosened two screws and tried moving it?
General reel tilt errors will occur if the main door is opened when the reels are spinning. You can clear it, but the main door has to be closed first and the mpu sees the door is closed (door open m message goes away). Then you turn the jackpot reset key and the reels will stop and the general reel tilt will go away. Until you can fix the main door error you can't fix the reel tilt.
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Black piece screws are screwed into have vertical slots to adjust up and down.
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Just bypass the door optics.They are a PITA. As I stated on YT the cherry switch (plunger) switch for the service light has extra dry contacts you can use for the door open/close functionality. There is a how-to on here somewhere that shows the basic wiring diagram for that. You can not just short one side since it is an optical interrupt circuit. Once you get the door switch rewired we can tackle the reel tilts.
I wish the coin hopper was legal in NC. I sold my machine last year. It kept getting abused by kids and people unplugging it at the museum. I went through 3 more MPU, a speaker amp and 2 sets of memory chips with barely $30 in bill-in to cover it all.
Glen
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People, I know you are trying to be helpful, but I am smart enough to know when something is moveable and when it's not. The sensor on the cabinet side is NOT moveable. Unless there is a trick to it that I am not seeing. I have taken the two screws completely out. The sensor will not move. I drew a pencil line above it to see if it would move. I was able to move it just enough to cover the pencil line and that was only the movement in the screw holes themselves. If I can find that schematic on how to bypass the sensor, I am ready to give that a try. Thanks for all your help but that sensor ain't moving.
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The one on the door does not adjust but maybe a slight tad in and out. The one on the cabinet should adjust up and down if it is the correct one.
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I know you are getting frustrated.
This should be a five minute fix.
If your cabinet optic looks like the one pictured above it is movable. Sometimes they stick a little.
I am sure if you pull the cabinet optical screws out completely you will see the slots.
It is not that way on the door optic so if you are basing your reply on what you did with the door optic screws you will find that you are incorrect. I am not a fan of bypass. I have worked on hundreds of IGT machines and never bypassed one.
When you do the test and you get the 1 and 0 slowly going back and forth does it go to steady 0 when you lift the latch? If it doesn't you have another issue like a bad MPU. Please answer my question before you start butchering a machine that you have very little experience with.
Rich
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No the adjustment is made on the cabinet optic.That one will slide.
Steady back and forth 0 and 1 is what you want.
If you lift the door handle it should just stay steady 0.
That how you know it's working.
Ok, I was able to get the slow 0-1 sequence. Still not able to move the sensor but was able to accomplish that setting. The machine tries to operate but not long into the sequence of operating, I go back into the reel tilt situation. 1, 2 or all 3 reels will roll slowly until I open the door and turn the reset key. Then, I close the door and the whole thing starts over again. I have multiple problems going on at the same time with the bill validator not accepting bills also. Very frustrating for the novice who has to depend on all of you kind folks for help. I'm going to go back into the menus again and see if I can figure anything out. But, any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I decided against the bypassing of the sensors since I was able to achieve the 0-1 sequence.
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You have one problem causing multiple issues.
Think of it this way. If you close the door and the machine seems operational. Now you try to play.
If the door switch breaks contact when you are putting a bill in it trips a bv error, if the door switch breaks contact after the reels start spinning you get a reel fault, if you are putting a coin in when the door switch opens then you get a coin fault. I hope this is making sense. All different faults have the same cause.
OK humor me. Please remove the screws from the cabinet optics and take a picture of it head on where the screws were.
Finally try this get the machine in test mode again looking for the 0 and 1 slow back and forth. When it is doing this ( the door is closed and latched) press on the top side of the cabinet left and right to slightly flex the cabinet and see if the cadence of the 0 and 1 changes. If it does the optics require adjustment.
Trying not to get long winded but this is a really good start.
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Well, let me start out by apologizing to all of you who insisted that the cabinet sensor was adjustable. I found the it was at the top of the adjustment and could not go any farther. When I tried to push it down, it wouldn't go down either. Someone had overtightend the bottom screen the the flat washer had embedded itself in the plastic so it would not allow the sensor holder to move. After fixing that, I found that by taking the sensor all the way to the bottom and working my way up about a 1/32nd at a time, I was able to get the door to close without having to really lean on it and the 0-1 sequence is now more stable. But, the machine is still not working correctly so I guess we have to move on to the next thing. Also, sometimes the quarters will stay and sometimes they drop straight through. I replace the coin in the comparator but that doesn't seem to change anything. WOW! Just now while I'm typing this, the machine played, very loudly I might add, a musical song I've never heard it play before. Very loud! Then it stopped. The read out keeps asking for coins. I feel that there is something haywire in the machine's program. Wow! Again with the music. Strange song. Very loud. I must have changed something in the menu system. Gotta go check.
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Thanks for your patience. I will do that. Ok, I tried doing that but I wasn't able to make it change. BUT, if I lift on the lower right corner of the door, I make it go from fast 0-1 to slow 0-1. If I life it far enough, it goes to 0. It's like the hinge on the door might be worn. I know these machines are used heavily before they are retired. Maybe I need to replace the hinge?
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in reply #20 I asked you to bypass the two switches that cause these intermittent problems, did you do that? especially the belly door switch. it is located in the upper top left of the belly door, there is a two pin connector that terminates at the switch, pull the two ends off the switch and cut off the connectors and strip the two wires and twist them together and then put a piece of tape over the connection.
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It's not the hinge the cabinets suck on S2000s that's why some folks say "I just moved it from another room an now it doesn't work " Usually the cabinet has flexed in a different direction and the optics need alignment. Couple that with Casino abuse or worse Casino on a boat. You want to have the latch all the way down it helps square up the weak cabinet. Slightly lifting the door when you close it should help you to get the latch all the way down. That's where you should adjust the optics to when the latch is completely down.
Coin comparator- try adjusting the small sensitivity screw on the lower right of the comparator all the way counter clockwise and see if that helps.
The loud noise is an attract mode that will play a short tune 45-60 seconds after the last button on the machine is pressed. The volume is adjustable though the same type procedure you used to get into the door switch test mode.
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in reply #20 I asked you to bypass the two switches that cause these intermittent problems, did you do that? especially the belly door switch. it is located in the upper top left of the belly door, there is a two pin connector that terminates at the switch, pull the two ends off the switch and cut off the connectors and strip the two wires and twist them together and then put a piece of tape over the connection.
I'm not sure what the belly door is. Is it the smaller door that is on the front of the main door?
edit: I went to the switch you mentioned and it has already been bypassed. Two green wires cut and crimped together.
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It's not the hinge the cabinets suck on S2000s that's why some folks say "I just moved it from another room an now it doesn't work " Usually the cabinet has flexed in a different direction and the optics need alignment. Couple that with Casino abuse or worse Casino on a boat. You want to have the latch all the way down it helps square up the weak cabinet. Slightly lifting the door when you close it should help you to get the latch all the way down. That's where you should adjust the optics to when the latch is completely down.
Coin comparator- try adjusting the small sensitivity screw on the lower right of the comparator all the way counter clockwise and see if that helps.
The loud noise is an attract mode that will play a short tune 45-60 seconds after the last button on the machine is pressed. The volume is adjustable though the same type procedure you used to get into the door switch test mode.
Thanks but that sound has never been made the whole time we've had the machine. I used to let it sit, turned on, 24/7 until I started turning it off. I think I have the sensor set right now but it is so sensitive that it won't stay set for very long. I'm going to have to find a way to make it stay lined up. Do you know which side is the transmitter and which is the receiver? The one on the cabinet seems to have the eye glass so I would think that is the receiver. But, what do I know? I'll try adjusting that comparator. At what point do we try to get the bill acceptor fixed?
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since you can get the machine to load the program, you should be able to get into the test mode, use the small button located near the LEDS , press it one time, you should see the accounting menu in the display, two end buttons should be lit, pressing either one will advance or reverse the direction through the menus. press until you stop at test #4 , press the spin button to enter into that menu,you should see the input test prompt, now press the bet one button until you see the processor test inputs, press the spin button to get into that menu, now press the bet one button until you see the main door and a 0 in the display, now close the door and slowly bring down the latch assembly, at some point the 0 should start to alternate to a 1, this is where the latch should be when fully at the rest position, change you optics to reflect this.
two other items could cause this door open problem, the cash can door switch, and the belly door switch, both should be bypassed, I have seen the belly door switch cause people to pull out their hair because of intermittent operation.
by the way, to clear a general reel tilt, all you have to do is open the door and turn the jackpot reset key one time.
if you are still having problems with the door optics and you suspect the board being damaged, I sell repaired boards.
Jim
By the way, the "bet one" switch does absolutely nothing. All the settings are done with the 2 left side buttons, and the spin button. Also, how do I go about getting the bulbs for those 3 buttons on the left? None of them light up. I think they used to. I also looked at the underside of those buttons to see how to replace the bulbs. Do the buttons come out of the door from the top or do I just have to finnagle my fat fingers in behind all those wires? It would seem like they would make it easier to replace the bulbs from the top. But, once again, what do I know?
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Ok can we work on one thing at a time?
What is working and what is not?
Have the reel tilts stopped, game play now working?
What's up with the bv?
Need a status of what is working and what is not before you start worrying about button lights etc.
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Ok can we work on one thing at a time?
What is working and what is not?
Have the reel tilts stopped, game play now working?
What's up with the bv?
Need a status of what is working and what is not before you start worrying about button lights etc.
Well, nothing works for very long but I know it's because of the door. The reels keep going into tilt. That's maddening but I can live with it for now. The game works SOMETIMES but not for long. Something keeps messing up, either the reel tilt or the coin accepter. Also, the credits keep blinking on and off with different amounts. It's as if the whole thing has become confused. I haven't had it working long enough to know if the coin validator is working better or not. I did turn the adjuster all the way counter clockwise which amounted to about a quarter of a turn. The light shows green on it. I will keep trying whatever you suggest. I only hope you don't get fed up with me. Sure wish you were close by. It would be so much easier but we'll get through it. THANKS AGAIN!
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I did another fine tune on the sensor and got it pretty much to where when I close the door, the thing cycles and is in game play mode. I managed to run it about 6 times and it went into reel tilt mode. I open the door, turn the payout switch, close the door and it either becomes playable or it goes right back into reel tilt mode. If all of this is caused by the door sensor, I'm about to bypass it. But I won't until you tell me to. As of right now, I have stopped the reel tilt and left the door unlatched.
Oh, the bv still doesn't work. It used to have a yellow light that illuminated when everything was working correctly. Yesterday, it would take the bill but spit back out. today, nada.
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As of right now, it's in play mode but will not accept coins. I hate to open the door to readjust the cv. I was able to play through 33 credits that had built up. It paid twice on cherries. It accepted one quarter but did not give me a credit for it. Just stayed in the machine.
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The reason you can't get them adjusted and stable is because the leaking battery has damaged the circuit traces that are used for the door status circuitry. Sometimes you can look at the traces and it's pretty obvious they're damaged, other times it may just have damaged a through hole (that connects the top of the circuit board to the lower circuit board) that's not visible. The damage causes intermittent problems just like what you're experiencing. It's a well known problem and will happen to every S2000 MPU eventually if the battery isn't either removed or replaced before it starts leaking. You can bypass the optics if you choose, but you will still have the same problem.
Personally I'd leave it alone and find a new MPU board.
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The reason you can't get them adjusted and stable is because the leaking battery has damaged the circuit traces that are used for the door status circuitry. Sometimes you can look at the traces and it's pretty obvious they're damaged, other times it may just have damaged a through hole (that connects the top of the circuit board to the lower circuit board) that's not visible. The damage causes intermittent problems just like what you're experiencing. It's a well known problem and will happen to every S2000 MPU eventually if the battery isn't either removed or replaced before it starts leaking. You can bypass the optics if you choose, but you will still have the same problem.
Personally I'd leave it alone and find a new MPU board.
Ok, assuming that my board is bad, how much am I looking at for a new board? And will I have a lot of trouble setting it all back up? I did just buy two chips to have in case they were needed. A number 17 and a 97. Will they be of any use if I replace my board?
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Not real sure. I know the prices have gone up in the last few months as the supply of good MPUs has declined. Check with Jim at Midwest slots or any of the other vendors on the front page.
It's easy to set back up....as long as you throw your clearchip (Clear 97) in the trash. Honestly, don't use it. There's no reason to use a clear chip unless you need to change the machines accounting denomination. Most all of your settings will be restored from an EEPROM chip located on your motherboard (as long as you didn't use the clear 97 on it). You'll have to move the game EPROMs from your old board to the new one. Be careful when you do it. Don't bend pins plugging them in, make sure you put them in the correct socket, and don't install them backwards.
When you plug the board in and turn the machine on you'll get a couple of errors. Turn the jackpot reset key and follow the directions on the display until all the errors clear. Then close the door and it should be ready to play.
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Thanks, I'm glad you warned me about that clear chip. I surely would have screwed up. It's my nature to do whatever might be wrong. I always cut twice and measure once so to speak. Never learned my lesson. Anyway, I'm going to check into a new board. Thanks.
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The sound you are hearing is the attract mode. It will only play when there are no credits left on the machine. It will not when there are credits. As for reading your post it seems you have a bad MPU.
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Thanks for that info. I guess because we almost always left it with some credits I'd never heard it before. VERY loud. Any way to tone it down? Also, yes, I have decided to replace the board. If and when I can find one. I'll take either a 502 or a 504. Makes not difference to me.
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Like I have said, the optical sensors are a PITA on old machines. Bypass it with the cherry switch and never have another door open issue again.
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Like I have said, the optical sensors are a PITA on old machines. Bypass it with the cherry switch and never have another door open issue again.
Thanks Ryengoth, It seems that I have a bad board so I guess this has all been for naught.
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Pinging @RB. Got a spare 504 mpu around? If you really want to play fun you can add the multi-denom touch panel and 6-digit credit display. :) I did that upgrade to mine and it was more fun to be able change the denom during play.
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And yes you can change/disable the attraction sound and pause time between attraction plays.
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And yes you can change/disable the attraction sound and pause time between attraction plays.
Can you give me the play by play instructions on how to do that Ryen? No rush, my machine will be down until I can locate a new board. Thanks for your help.
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Pinging @RB. Got a spare 504 mpu around? If you really want to play fun you can add the multi-denom touch panel and 6-digit credit display. :) I did that upgrade to mine and it was more fun to be able change the denom during play.
Ryengoth, if you could expand on that, it would be great. I'm not sure what you just said. New words to me. I'm still learning so please go slow.
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And yes you can change/disable the attraction sound and pause time between attraction plays.
Can you give me the play by play instructions on how to do that Ryen? No rush, my machine will be down until I can locate a new board. Thanks for your help.
Press white button to open config menu on fluorescent display. Scroll down to sounds and look under there for volume settings and timer for attraction feature. You do not need a key chip to go into programming mode, just press the white button on the MPU with the door open.
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And yes you can change/disable the attraction sound and pause time between attraction plays.
Can you give me the play by play instructions on how to do that Ryen? No rush, my machine will be down until I can locate a new board. Thanks for your help.
Press white button to open config menu on fluorescent display. Scroll down to sounds and look under there for volume settings and timer for attraction feature. You do not need a key chip to go into programming mode, just press the white button on the MPU with the door open.
Thanks, I'll give that a try. By the way, any ideas on a board? I'll take a 502 at this point.
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Pinging @RB. Got a spare 504 mpu around? If you really want to play fun you can add the multi-denom touch panel and 6-digit credit display. :) I did that upgrade to mine and it was more fun to be able change the denom during play.
Ryengoth, if you could expand on that, it would be great. I'm not sure what you just said. New words to me. I'm still learning so please go slow.
The multi-denomination module replaces the sticker in the lower panel where the denomination amount is displayed. You can select from several 4-denomination stickers. You replace the white module on the door with a new one that has a touch sensor in it. It aligns 4 "touch buttons" with the sticker graphics. If you touch where $.25 is then the game play and credit module switches to $.25 per credit play. Between reel spins you can pick from the 4 touch options to change your bet level and credit totals. Put in a $20 and play nickle for a while until it gets warm then switch to $.50 and rack up cash. When it gets cold switch back to $.10 maybe and play for a while. If you decide you want that, bear in mind that the accounting denomination must be $.01 in order to support the changes during play. That means the credit ticker is going to go insane and possible fly apart unless you unplug and jumper it. :rotfl: Check out the demo play on my YT channel.
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Pinging @RB. Got a spare 504 mpu around? If you really want to play fun you can add the multi-denom touch panel and 6-digit credit display. :) I did that upgrade to mine and it was more fun to be able change the denom during play.
Ryengoth, if you could expand on that, it would be great. I'm not sure what you just said. New words to me. I'm still learning so please go slow.
I think I'll leave well enough alone. I have to get mine working first before I do any alterations. I feel so stupid for possibly messing mine up by replacing that Varta battery. I should have known that there was a better way. Oh well, live and learn.
The multi-denomination module replaces the sticker in the lower panel where the denomination amount is displayed. You can select from several 4-denomination stickers. You replace the white module on the door with a new one that has a touch sensor in it. It aligns 4 "touch buttons" with the sticker graphics. If you touch where $.25 is then the game play and credit module switches to $.25 per credit play. Between reel spins you can pick from the 4 touch options to change your bet level and credit totals. Put in a $20 and play nickle for a while until it gets warm then switch to $.50 and rack up cash. When it gets cold switch back to $.10 maybe and play for a while. If you decide you want that, bear in mind that the accounting denomination must be $.01 in order to support the changes during play. That means the credit ticker is going to go insane and possible fly apart unless you unplug and jumper it. :rotfl: Check out the demo play on my YT channel.
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https://youtu.be/dkfXaepx8GM (https://youtu.be/dkfXaepx8GM)
I have the denom set to $1 but you can see the 4 other options by the lit-up $1 button on the glass. Oh you also get a 2-line display with that upgrade which is very helpful in the programming menu.
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And yes you can change/disable the attraction sound and pause time between attraction plays.
Can you give me the play by play instructions on how to do that Ryen? No rush, my machine will be down until I can locate a new board. Thanks for your help.
Press white button to open config menu on fluorescent display. Scroll down to sounds and look under there for volume settings and timer for attraction feature. You do not need a key chip to go into programming mode, just press the white button on the MPU with the door open.
Thanks, I'll give that a try. By the way, any ideas on a board? I'll take a 502 at this point.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/164162315843
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Pinging @RB. Got a spare 504 mpu around? If you really want to play fun you can add the multi-denom touch panel and 6-digit credit display. :) I did that upgrade to mine and it was more fun to be able change the denom during play.
Ryengoth, if you could expand on that, it would be great. I'm not sure what you just said. New words to me. I'm still learning so please go slow.
I think I'll leave well enough alone. I have to get mine working first before I do any alterations. I feel so stupid for possibly messing mine up by replacing that Varta battery. I should have known that there was a better way. Oh well, live and learn.
The multi-denomination module replaces the sticker in the lower panel where the denomination amount is displayed. You can select from several 4-denomination stickers. You replace the white module on the door with a new one that has a touch sensor in it. It aligns 4 "touch buttons" with the sticker graphics. If you touch where $.25 is then the game play and credit module switches to $.25 per credit play. Between reel spins you can pick from the 4 touch options to change your bet level and credit totals. Put in a $20 and play nickle for a while until it gets warm then switch to $.50 and rack up cash. When it gets cold switch back to $.10 maybe and play for a while. If you decide you want that, bear in mind that the accounting denomination must be $.01 in order to support the changes during play. That means the credit ticker is going to go insane and possible fly apart unless you unplug and jumper it. :rotfl: Check out the demo play on my YT channel.
Ryen, I tried to find the link or channel you referred to. I did watch your video on your roadtrip but I couldn't find whatever you are referring to here. Can you link me to it?
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You didn't mess up your MPU board, the leaking varta battery did. If you ever get another S2000 just make sure you remove it before it has a chance to leak and destroy the board.
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You didn't mess up your MPU board, the leaking varta battery did. If you ever get another S2000 just make sure you remove it before it has a chance to leak and destroy the board.
Thanks. I just figured I probably overheated it while trying to install/remove the varta. Now, I know better. I'm having a tough time getting my wife to understand WHY I need to spend a hundred dollars. That is worse than knowing I might have been the culprit. Oh well, in time. Thanks Tilt.
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Ryen, I tried to find the link or channel you referred to. I did watch your video on your roadtrip but I couldn't find whatever you are referring to here. Can you link me to it?
Posted above, but here ya go.
https://youtu.be/dkfXaepx8GM
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Ryen, I tried to find the link or channel you referred to. I did watch your video on your roadtrip but I couldn't find whatever you are referring to here. Can you link me to it?
Posted above, but here ya go.
https://youtu.be/dkfXaepx8GM (https://youtu.be/dkfXaepx8GM)
Thanks Ryengoth, I did watch that one too but I didn't realize it was what you were referring to.
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You didn't mess up your MPU board, the leaking varta battery did. If you ever get another S2000 just make sure you remove it before it has a chance to leak and destroy the board.
Thanks. I just figured I probably overheated it while trying to install/remove the varta. Now, I know better. I'm having a tough time getting my wife to understand WHY I need to spend a hundred dollars. That is worse than knowing I might have been the culprit. Oh well, in time. Thanks Tilt.
Unfortunately it's the name of the game with these old machines. You'll be replacing parts. I bought an EEPROM burner and UV eraser specifically for messing with mine. I was attempting to hack the software though. :D It does help to be able to burn copies of they key and game ROMs. A USB writer is less than $40. The chips can be purchased for a few bucks. The power supply will probably go out next, so be prepared. Don't trash the board, though. Should it happen to be a RAM chip gone bad or something else you'll want to have a spare MPU.
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NLG member Lookes has 50x boards for sale on ebay right now: https://www.ebay.com/sch/lookes/m.html?item=164162315843&hash=item2638d62643%3Ag%3AeBwAAOSwgrJel0ek&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562 (https://www.ebay.com/sch/lookes/m.html?item=164162315843&hash=item2638d62643%3Ag%3AeBwAAOSwgrJel0ek&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562)
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NLG member Lookes has 50x boards for sale on ebay right now: https://www.ebay.com/sch/lookes/m.html?item=164162315843&hash=item2638d62643%3Ag%3AeBwAAOSwgrJel0ek&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562 (https://www.ebay.com/sch/lookes/m.html?item=164162315843&hash=item2638d62643%3Ag%3AeBwAAOSwgrJel0ek&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562)
Thanks for that info. I have been watching his boards but wasn't sure of his reputation. If he is a member here, that would make me feel better. Can you tell me what the main difference is between the 502 and the 504? I can save $30 by buying the 502 and every $30 counts right now. I have never had any "buzzing" from my speakers. Is that something that might happen if I buy the 502 board? I'll spend the extra money if there is a good valid reason for it. Thanks for your input.
Ray
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Yep, you got it right about the boards.
He is a good guy to deal with.
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Yep, you got it right about the boards.
He is a good guy to deal with.
So, if it was you, what board would you buy? Keep in mind that money is tight. I just want to do the smartest thing. I appreciate you giving his recommendation. That means something.
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504B, you already have the multimedia dimm and daughter board.
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If your machine has backlit reels and a sound simm installed the buzz could be pretty bad with a 502. Both those seem to intensify it to me. The 502 is cheaper for a reason. That being said I have one 502 that sounds great!
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I had this same exact problem today it drove me nuts. The cause of the problem was a bad version chip.
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I wanted to take a minute to say a big thank you to all who tried to help me solve my problem. It seems that my board was truly bad. I have another board coming but as of yet haven't gotten it. I will post as soon as I get it installed and hopefully will be back up and running. Thanks to all.
Ray
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I wanted to take a minute to say a big thank you to all who tried to help me solve my problem. It seems that my board was truly bad. I have another board coming but as of yet haven't gotten it. I will post as soon as I get it installed and hopefully will be back up and running. Thanks to all.
Ray
Good luck with it. Once you get it up and running check out the Bettor Slots TITO module for ticket play. You can network your machines and also add credits and change the text on the ticket vouchers. I had mine on wifi. There is an app for your phone.
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Well, I have an update......I installed my new 504 mpu and got my machine back up and running. It works just like it used to. BUT, I still have a problem with bill validator. It will not accept any bills. It will take them in but sends them right back out again. I never had any problems with that part before all this fiasco started. Any ideas what to do next? If I recall, there used to be a yellow light in it but that doesn't work either. I can't remember if it ever did but it might be nice for it to light up. Once again, thanks to all who helped me through this mess. Cudos to NewLifeGames.com.
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Press white button and go to #4 I/O then go to 4.3 auto configure netplex devices and see if it says bill acceptor installed.
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If the bills are being taken then rejected it means you either need to calibrate the validator, or you are going over the credit limit. Check the bill credit limit in the machine settings. Try using a dollar bill see if the machine takes it.
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Press white button and go to #4 I/O then go to 4.3 auto configure netplex devices and see if it says bill acceptor installed.
Thanks, I'll give that a try. If it is stalled though, how do I "unstall" it?
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If the bills are being taken then rejected it means you either need to calibrate the validator, or you are going over the credit limit. Check the bill credit limit in the machine settings. Try using a dollar bill see if the machine takes it.
I tried it with a new style ten, a new style five and a regular one. Same thing on all of them. It pulls them in then spits them back out. Maybe my money tastes bad. LOL.
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If the bills are being taken then rejected it means you either need to calibrate the validator, or you are going over the credit limit. Check the bill credit limit in the machine settings. Try using a dollar bill see if the machine takes it.
I tried it with a new style ten, a new style five and a regular one. Same thing on all of them. It pulls them in then spits them back out. Maybe my money tastes bad. LOL.
As suggested go into config 4.3 and make sure it is enabled on the netplex network. It is acting like it is disabled. Does it take coins OK?
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Press white button and go to #4 I/O then go to 4.3 auto configure netplex devices and see if it says bill acceptor installed.
I did as you suggested, I got a message that the bv was stalled. I took it out and messed with the little wheels. I put it back in and got a message that said "bv cam failure". I took it out again and turned the little wheels. I put it back in and closed the door. It went through the reset process and I tried a one dollar bill. I took it. I tried a second bill and it came back out. It seems to like every other bill. I think it got dirty or oxidized from sitting so long. Is there a way to clean it?
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Yes, some you can open the head and clean the sensors with warm water on a Q-tip. Do NOT use alcohol. Which bv do you have?
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there are 8 switches on the right side of the WBA , all should be in the up position, to test the unit, pull out the cash can, put switches 1-2-3 and 8 down, put in the machine, apply power, reach in and push switch 8 up, unit should cycle briefly, now you can insert a bill into the unit, normally it should pull it into the unit and run it through and deposit it where the cash can would have been. you can use this method to determine what software you have in the unit by the type bills it will accept.
if it doesn't do this then you either have a bad head or a bad transport unit.
restore all switches to the up position.
I have tested WBA transports available if you need one. ID024, version 3.8 for IGT, will take all the latest money.
Jim
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Yes, some you can open the head and clean the sensors with warm water on a Q-tip. Do NOT use alcohol. Which bv do you have?
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there are 8 switches on the right side of the WBA , all should be in the up position, to test the unit, pull out the cash can, put switches 1-2-3 and 8 down, put in the machine, apply power, reach in and push switch 8 up, unit should cycle briefly, now you can insert a bill into the unit, normally it should pull it into the unit and run it through and deposit it where the cash can would have been. you can use this method to determine what software you have in the unit by the type bills it will accept.
if it doesn't do this then you either have a bad head or a bad transport unit.
restore all switches to the up position.
I have tested WBA transports available if you need one. ID024, version 3.8 for IGT, will take all the latest money.
Jim
I tried as you suggested but nothing happens. It doesn't work as you said and it will not do anything with the cash box out. and I had to return everything back to normal to get it to recycle. It will not accept a bill at this point but I'll keep on trying. Another question, how can I turn off that God-awful sound that it makes when there are no credits and inactivity.
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Another question, how can I turn off that God-awful sound that it makes when there are no credits and inactivity.
Are you talking about the "Attract Mode" of the machine?
If so, go into the set-up and look for that option and disable it.
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Another question, how can I turn off that God-awful sound that it makes when there are no credits and inactivity.
Are you talking about the "Attract Mode" of the machine?
If so, go into the set-up and look for that option and disable it.
Thanks, I wasn't sure what it was called. Attract mode? Thanks, I found it and turned the volume down to 0. There is no off/on. Some of the menu options are curious to me. I don't know what they do. Is there a document available that has all the menu options/selections and explanations of each? I'd sure love to get one.
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Look at the very first post on the S2000 forum topic.
Called Look here first. You will find all of that information and more
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Look at the very first post on the S2000 forum topic.
Called Look here first. You will find all of that information and more
:agreepost:
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Look at the very first post on the S2000 forum topic.
Called Look here first. You will find all of that information and more
Thanks for the input. I'm 77 years old so excuse me if I try to take the shortest route to my problem. I did do some reading on that place but being the novice that I am, a lot of it is total gibberish to me. But the good news is that since this whole thing started, I have learned a lot but I know that I have only scratched the surface. I really do appreciate all the help I have received here. I got my machine working and it's almost back to the way it used to be. I am now in the process of trying to get the BV back to working correctly and I have been reading on that subject too. I will say that I got so carried away with all of my new knowledge that I totally forgot to go back to that topic. I will now do that. :thank_you: :thank_you: :thank_you:
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there are 8 switches on the right side of the WBA , all should be in the up position, to test the unit, pull out the cash can, put switches 1-2-3 and 8 down, put in the machine, apply power, reach in and push switch 8 up, unit should cycle briefly, now you can insert a bill into the unit, normally it should pull it into the unit and run it through and deposit it where the cash can would have been. you can use this method to determine what software you have in the unit by the type bills it will accept.
if it doesn't do this then you either have a bad head or a bad transport unit.
restore all switches to the up position.
I have tested WBA transports available if you need one. ID024, version 3.8 for IGT, will take all the latest money.
Jim
Jim, I have messed with this thing most of the day and I think I have a bad sensing unit. The transport mechanism seems to work ok but it will just not accept the bills on a regular basis. I had 2 tens, 3 fives and 7 ones. It took almost all of the ones, two of the fives but none of the tens. Granted they were the newer style that are that rusty brown color. I didn't have any other cash at home. The sensing eyes, at least that's what I think are the sensing eyes are round and seem to have cloudy "worn" spots on all of them. I managed to clean all the crud off the wheels but the lenses won't clean up or shine. They just stay opaque. So, with all that said, I think the sensing unit may be bad. What should I have to pay for a new one? Also, I have looked very closely and I don't see anything there that should light up the insert bezel. I don't know what to look for but to me, it seems to be missing. Can you maybe post a picture of what one looks like? I tried to find pics but no luck. Thanks for you help.
Ray
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Look on the inside of the door just above the slot the bills slide thru for the BV bulbs/wires/sockets.
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Thanks so much. Being the newbie/novice that I am, I was looking for it to be somewhere on the BV. I never thought to look on the door. I found it and pulled both bulbs out for inspection. They both "appear" to be good. I'll have to try to trace the wiring to see if something has come unplugged. Do those PCB's go bad often? I found some on eBay so I know they are available but I don't see buying one until I verify that mine is bad. Thanks again for your help. I truly appreciate it.