New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S2000 and Vision Games => Topic started by: ThirdGenAmusement on August 31, 2020, 11:20:08 AM
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Still banging my head against this s2000 5 wheel slot. Had everything working again as of last night when I was able to set the 7 segment readout to the correct setting. I played the heck out of it for a good hour or so and worked perfect. Once again I was getting ready to take it off my lift calling this DONE but then I started to get the error about the belly glass being open. I dont recall the exact error that would pop up/cause reel tilts but I was able to push in on the top left side of the belly glass to get it to do normal play. Then that wasnt enough. I opened the belly glass door and would then push the switch in by hand. Then that wasnt enough. Sometimes i would have to push the switch in hard to get it to work. At this time I would also get a Coin-In error also along with the belly glass door open error but would go away and machine would work perfect if I got the belly glass door switch in its "sweet spot" pushing in on it. So I bipassed the switch. That took care of the belly glass door open error but now I get a persistant:
Coin-In Error
Closure M
Call Attendant
Here's what I've done so far:
--Swapped through all the I/O cards I have. I/O cards that were in the machine with the Coin-In Jam error would produce that error instead of the most recent Coin-In Error.
--I have re-cleaned the optics in the coin comparitor as well as the set of optics below the coin comparitor.
One thing of interest. After shutting the machine off and turning it back on the machine will power up like normal with no errors and even play for a short "3 or 4 spins" before the Coin-In Error comes back. When the machine is on and getting the Coin-In Error and I lift the latch to open the door/clear errors, the reels will spin and do its normal thing like its setting back up to play but then the Coin-In Error comes up however more often than not as I type this clearing the errors does seem to clear the error and the game will play. I can pound around different areas of the door and cabinet with no ill affects. I can also lift and push down on the front door with no issues either.
The error if in game play seems to come once the reels stop and the pull lever coil releases to allow you to pull it to play another bet. Its shortly after that coil pulls or releases but not while so I dont think this is a direct issue but may lead to the sequence the machine goes through. I havent had a real tilt due to the Coin-In Error meaning it doesnt seem to happen while in game play. Its hard to rule out some connection issue of sorts but trying to make a connection error happen doesn't seem to surface. I had considered bypassing the door closure sensor to rule that out but it doesn't seem to be the issue.
Appreciate any ideas to pursue. Boards look good as does the batteries check out. Varta is still on the board though I may mod this so thats out of the question.
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Are you actually using coins to play or does it randomly happen when playing credits? The Varta battery should definitely be removed. It's trouble waiting to happen if it hasn't already caused damage.
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Hi RB,
I am using bills at this point and set it up for hand pay above 1.00 payout for now.
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Just for diagnostic purposes, you can cash out (zero credits), insert your key chip(no need to clear). Disable token payout & enable coinless mode to see if the problem persists or goes away. No need to disconnect the coin in harness but you can use a jumper if you have one. One or the other must be hooked up or you will definitely get an error.
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Ok, made those changes but the issue still happens. It played for awhile before the error occurred. I didnt remove or unjack the comparitor. It was left hooked up as if it was to be used. The error has started to occur after the Spin Reels/Repeat Bet button but before the reels have a chance to spin. And now its taking more tries at clearing the error by lifting and lowering the door latch.
On a side note, I had to leave for a few hours earlier so the machine was left on with no errors and at the point it was ready to play. I got back and it was in the same state, no errors and ready to play. I played it once and it did the Coin-In Error. This was before making the changes.
Below is a link to a video. The file is to big to post the video file.
http://photos.app.goo.gl/7MpmLWJK9VmnGU8G6 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/7MpmLWJK9VmnGU8G6)
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You were playing with the belly door switch. Take the wires off and twist them together. Switch is out of the loop
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You were playing with the belly door switch. Take the wires off and twist them together. Switch is out of the loop
Thank you therockinelvis. Thats been completed.
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Hello,
I had taken a break from this slot and issue for a bit but getting back on it. I have noticed that the coin-in error tends to happen after the machine has been on for 5 or so minutes possibly after it warms up The longer its on the less it wants to clear. Has anyone had any solder issues with the components on board? The error can occur in game play which also causes a reel tilt as well as jut sitting idle. Any other ideas to checkout?
I took a video of the error and when it occurs but the file is way to big even after compression. I have the video stored at this link:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ti9rraeYL6VvkS3U6
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I had a problem sort of similar to this because I have a 5-reel game too. (Three Times Pay)
I changed out all sorts of stuff, I/O cards, harnesses, MPU's, etc.....nothing worked.
You know what fixed it?
There was a slightly bent pin on the inner door I/O card on the far right when looking at the pins with the Molex latch pointing away from my face.
I took a needle nosed pliers, and straightened it out, pushed in the I/O card back in very carefully and the errors went away forever.
I believe the I/O card was the wide socket 802 (for double row button decks)
Maybe this might help ya?
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Thank you Stayouttadabunker. I did go through the i/o cards with your suggestion as well as the main board connectors to ensure they were straight and luckily(or unluckily depending how you look at it) my pins were straight.
I have some different i/o cards coming to swap out so see if there is a change. One of my door i/o cards solder points isn't shiny silver but a dull grey which would indicate a cold solder joint. I have an iron which temp is correct for board work but my tip is pretty big so these little tiny areas I would need to touch up. May pass it to my brother with a solder station to see if he can re-solder that area.
Ideas are welcome. My solenoid for the handle on the side of the slot doesn't always lock the handle from being pulled. That lock seems to be one of the first things the slot does when played is energize that coil. Maybe I have a short in the coil? The error does happen after its on for awhile just sitting there so probably not associated. Just digging for a reason lol.
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I just re-watched your video...
I noticed that the flashing [20] up on the line display panel was acting sort of erratic.
Could you check the wires at the molex connector going to that reel glass display?
Maybe there's something wrong in that area?
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Received some more 802 I/O cards and swapped with no change. I can disconnect either door I/O card and the error changes from Coin-In Error to Coin-In Jam. Reattach the I/O card and after clearing the error it will either work for a pull or two or go right into the Coin-In Error again.
I am considering temporarily bypassing the door sensor to do some wiggling of wiring to see if once errors are cleared I can come across something that causes the error again. I was able to do this to the I/O card between the main door and belly glass and couldn't really make this error out. Shouldn't be the other I/O card but would like to rule out it and the wire loom inside to make sure its not a broken or partially broken wire.
Any thoughts on this being something faulty with the main board?
Stayouttadabunker, I did reseat the cables going to the display. I wonder if its my frame rate of my camera that made it look funky.
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You're probably right about the camera frame rate making the display look "off".
I'm interested in this topic because I know it will help members in the future that run into this error.
I wish I knew exactly what triggers the MPU to display your error.
I will do some research on it.
Hopefully someone who's run into this error before will come forth with some advice that'll solve it soon.
hmm...read the first paragraph of Repy #11 in this topic....>>>> http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=28764.msg151542#msg151542 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=28764.msg151542#msg151542)
It seems like he "brought on" the "coin-in error" by messing with a door optic bypass utilizing the cherry switch.
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Thank you. I hope to find an answer to. Appreciate your help. Googling this error didn't turn up much but know I've seen one of two other similar posts somewhat recently though I don't believe there was resolution. I'll keep plugging away and post anything I can figure out.
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Might have nothing to do with the "Coin-In Error" error but I noticed :sherlock: in the 11 second video you posted in Reply #4, the paper is in the ticket printer backwards...that's why when it finishes printing, half a ticket is sticking out.
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LOL! Yes, that was IGT #23,419 life lesson that the black reference marks serve a purpose on the printer and paper. HAhahah!!
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Had a little time so I swapped the power supply from this machine with another known working s2000. No difference. Sometimes a power supply with failing components can pass along "dirty" power making some weird glitches but this doesn't seem to be the case with this.
On a side note. When the machine errors and I cycle the door latch to clear the error, the machine does its thing with spinning the reels. At the point the last reel stops it will light up the buttons, etc like its ready to play before it errors out. If I time it right I can hit the button or pull the handle to start the game but then it will error out with the Coin-In Error. I can cycle the door latch again to clear the error and the machine will pick up where it was before the error and even pay credits if I hit something before it errors out again.
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Does your mpu fit tight into the backplane cage? I had a machine that errored from vibration. I replaced the backplane board and all is good.
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I may have missed this....have you tried another MPU board in this problem cabinet with the suspect chips?
I want to rule out any problems with the MPU, backplane or software.
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@Therockenelvis The board does seem to fit fairly snug. It takes some good force to remove the board but that's my only measure as far as how well it fits. Very interesting thought though. I have, while the machine is error free, banged areas outside of the cabinet to see if there may be a connection issue and so far it hasn't errored. My next step I'm considering is bypassing the door optics so I can have the door open and tap on components to see if I get an error.
@stayouttadabunker there is a guy I know here in town with an operational s2000 enhanced board 3+1 real machine I am going to see if I can"borrow" to hopefully see if the error carries over to his. Hopefully I can get this done by the weekend. I'll keep you posted. I'm not sure which would be easier, putting his board in my machine or putting my board in his.
Thanks again for more ideas! I appreciate your time!
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If you put your MPU and chips in his, that doesn't rule out the backplane in your problem cabinet.
Vice versa, if he throws his stuff in your machine, you don't know if your chips or MPU is any good.
What model MPU and backplane board do you have in there?
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MPU is the 1270 enhanced. There is nothing in the rev block for the board so not sure which it is. The backplane board is a 75909100 Rev EB.
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Here is something easy to try, unplug the coin mech. main harness and install the jumper plug and see what happens!
Jim
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Here is something easy to try, unplug the coin mech. main harness and install the jumper plug and see what happens!
Jim
That's a good thought.
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Here is something easy to try, unplug the coin mech. main harness and install the jumper plug and see what happens!
Jim
I totally agree with you guys and it WAS suggested to do this in Reply #3 but this fella probably doesn't have one? Idk
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Hello!
So.... things started to look up for a bit. The issue with the coin-in error was being persistent and tried a few different things including changing out the board set and mother board. Unfortunately no change. The only thing that made a big difference was the fact I discovered I had an 802 i/o card in place of an 801 card(this machine has 2 i/o cards so it was the one at a 45 deg angle between the belly glass and main door). I have 2 extra 801 cards so I tried the first one and it may have been defective since only some of the bet/line buttons lit as well as getting persistent coin-in error. So I put the other 801 card in things ran great......For awhile. I played the machine for a good couple of hours solid with no hiccups and thought it was repaired..... Then I got a coin-in error. Cleared right up with the door latch reset and played on for quite a while. Then another coin-in error. Now at this point, its back to being as bad as it was initially with not being able to clear the error or if I do its only for a pull or two before it errors again.
The machine would accept coins and bills so I don't feel as though it has to do with the comparator. One thing I have noticed is that the machine seems to do the error when the bv light turns on. So once the machine is powered on or a reset using the door latch the bv light will flash on then the coin-in error happens. There are times the machine is operable for a pull or two right after turning on or after the door latch clear is used if there is credits on the machine. But the bv light. the one that reads insert tickets or bills face up, lights up that's when the error seems to happen. If that light is lit and stays lit, I can input coins or bills. Hopefully this makes sense.
I may try to purchase a few more 801 cards and be sure that it wasn't another faulty card. But I am curious if there is something I can look for that might be taking out the 801 card since the 2nd 801 card I tried worked for a period of time and slowly became worse. I have replaced the power supply and even unplugged all the florescent ballasts to be sure they weren't giving issue after the first initial coin-in errors with this i/o card.
Thoughts appreciated! =) And sorry for the long post.
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While you're spending $$$ :money: :money: on I/O cards, pick up a coin mech jumper plug too and try our suggestion?! :arrowthruhead:
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Thanks Stayouttadabunker. Yes that's on my list to.
I apologize, I did forget to mention that I did try using jumper wires on the plug for the comparator/led area after a member here sent it to me and it still gave me a coin-in error. I believe that was either while the 802 card was installed it the first 801 card. When I put the 2nd 801 card in I thought "Whoo hoo!" Since everything seemed to work. So I didn't go further with trying the jumper then. But, the "whoo hoo" was short lived. Lol.
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haha okay
An 801 I/O is for a single row of deck buttons.
An 802 I/O card is for decks with double rows of buttons.
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Gotcha. This having 2 I/o cards one is a 801 and the other an 802 or are they supposed to both be 802?
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801 between the panel and belly glass.
802 on the panel facing to the rear of the machine.
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Thank you.
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Make sure the 801 harness runs to the reel glass display by the door hinges.
The 802 harness runs back to the backplane board in the cabinet behind the MPU.
People mistakenly mis-connect these two harnesses.
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Thank you. Will double check.
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Pic of the error
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I checked the wiring and its correct. 801 card(between belly glass and main door) goes to reel glass and 802 card(between main door and inside of cabinet) goes to the cabinet.
Tried to upload pics but apparently I reach my limit of pictures. :Crazy:
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It seems that when the BV light comes on is what's setting off the [Coin-In Error] error code.
I'm wondering if the power supply is loose up there behind the reel shelf or if that power supply is flaky?
Could you pull the BV light harness out and play a few games and see if the error pops up?
That BV light draws very little amps but might be just what is maxing out the power supply for some reason?
Disconnecting that BV lamp and playing a few games without erroring might give you an answer?
We want to rule out everything....one component at a time until this topic is solved.
I use plain ol' Windows Paint program to resize the larger sized side of a photo (horizontally or vertically) of pixels to down to 1000 pixel, rename the photo & save it on my desktop temporarily until I grab it and place as an attachment in a Reply....>>>
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Will do! I appreciate the idea. :thank_you: :) Early on I did swap out power supplies from a working machine.
I'll report back.
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Whoa.... This cant be the problem... BUT IT IS! Stayouttabunker....This was right in front of me and you found it!!!!
It ended up being the Board that holds the bulbs for the bv. A resister may have gone bad. I thought it was a socket but after trial and error the only way the machine would function properly is having both sockets removed even though the board was jacked. This may be the culprit that took out the 801 card.
Before calling this solved I will play it for an extended period of time but thanks for all the suggestions and time!
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I checked the resisters and R2 is internally shorted and I believe this is the problem!!! So I will either get another resister or different board.
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haha...okay...just disconnect the little 2-pin harness from the BV for now...
Post a picture of the damage to that lil board... :Take_a_Photo: as large as you can post....1000 pixels on one side at the most.
I'd like to be able to zoom in on it.
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I checked the resisters and R2 is internally shorted and I believe this is the problem!!! So I will either get another resister or different board.
I will send you a board or two. Just pay for shipping.
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Stayouttadabunker - I must have hit a picture upload limit or something due to forum giving me an error of exceeding limits. However, I have included a link to my google pix account and you will be able to see full resolution pics there. I have an arrow pointing to the resister in question. Using my meter this particular resister doesn't offer any resistance so I think that would be a dead short. Thanks again for all your help! Hopefully we didnt set any records for the longest running issue on nlg lol.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/P6ofPocee3sGTtK
RB - Thanks for your continued generosity but another member beat you too it. This is a great group of people!
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Hmm....the link doesn't work?
oh well...glad members are sending you stuff.
We like helping each other out whenever possible.
This is NLG!
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are you using LEDS in the BV lamp board? you have to pay attention to the type socket you are using, If the LEDS have wrap around leads then the LEDS will short out the components. two different type of sockets, one for incandescent bulb and one for LEDS, or to use one for the other you have to modify the wrap around lead.
Jim
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Sorry Stayouttadabunker. It may not work unless you have a google pix/photo account. Try this one or I can email them. Pm me your email.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/qVPrhKf5KVvruNvv7 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/qVPrhKf5KVvruNvv7)
Thanks Jim. The sockets and bulbs are for the incandescent but appreciate the thought. I forgot about that!
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Your BV light circuit board photo is only 654 pixels in length....small enough to go on here.
I'll bet you're not a paying member that's why you are being limited....donate a few bucks to help pay for hosting costs and you'll be able to post all you want and have more space for messages.
Anyway, why do you have a red arrow pointing at that [R2] resistor?
Click on photo to enlarge if needed...it doesn't get much bigger really...>>>
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Correct though I may have too with all the help i get!!
The red arrow is pointing to the resister in question. I used a multi meter to check resistance of the resisters and the one in the R2 position is open meaning is a short rather than a resistance. So I believe this to be the issue.
Thanks for posting the pic. =)
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I think you have to un-solder one leg in order to get it out of circuit to get a true reading no?
What are the ring colors of it?
The color saturation setting of your camera is mixing me up on the colors.
By the way, your machine still hasn't errored out yet? No more coin-in error? Been playing it? :scratch-head_3: :scratch-head_2:
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed....>>>
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Oh nice thanks for the chart! That's handy.
Its really hard to tell the colors but I believe Orange, Orange, Gold, Gold.
You are probably right especially if you are wanting to measure to see if its in tolerance. I am still learning this stuff. lol. I am more proficient with 1935 Mills slot but getting better with newer stuff.
I can always clip a leg or desolder one on this board to verify. May try that this afternoon.
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Looks like I'm late to this party, but that's some great troubleshooting and the advice of these members here is priceless!
If that indeed does solve your problem, please let us know.
We've all had to chase a few ghosts and gremlins before, so any solid fix posted in these forums can save someone a lot of time and head scratching.
And welcome to NLG.
Curtis ash100
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Ok, received some replacement light boards which is very appreciated! However, those too cause the coin-in error. The boards can be hooked up but as soon as a bulb is installed it'll error. So, I am installing #74 incandescent bulbs and have double checked the wires coming from the bulb are not out of place causing a short on the socket.
Is #74 bulbs correct for this bv light board?
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When using LEDs you need to bend the wires to one side. They can't go across the bulbs to both sides
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Thanks for the reply therockinelvis. I'll definitely keep that in mind. I believe these #74's are incandescent bulbs. The wires coming off the bulb are opposing so one wire lead goes up one side of the spade and one wire lead goes up the other side on opposite sides of the bulb. This is on the long side of the spade of the bulb and not up the skinny side of the spade.
Just checking to see if #74 bulbs will work for this application.
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73 is the correct bulb
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Is #74 bulbs correct for this bv light board?
I’ve used #74s in my light boards for a few months now with no problems.
Here is a quote from RB in the bulb replacement thread:
74 is fine. It's the 12v equivalent used in automotive applications.
And here is the full bulb replacement thread:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=4776.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=4776.0)
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The #73 bulb is 1.12W and the #74 is 1.4W. Minor difference.
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Thanks fellas. I'm going to start checking the voltage and possibly the amperage on my machine. Something isn't right.
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So after a whole lot of replacing parts and trying to figure this out, I lastly replaced the board for the lights of the bv. I initially put the #74 incandescent bulbs in. One bulb in would work fine but dropped the voltage in the circuit to about 8.5 volts. Put the second light in and it would error out every time.
I finally decided this was a voltage issue and had hoped using led bulbs would draw a minimal amount of voltage to not trip an error so I installed some LEDs I bought off Amazon, and it worked. After installing the LEDs, the slot has been flawless being on for nearly 3 weeks straight running it through various scenarios of bills in, coin in, voucher in, and using credits already in to play without issue. So using LEDs seems to have solved this issue though I'm not convinced this is the correct solution. But it works!
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I found out an amazing little tidbit with these lamps.
The difference for example between a #74 and a #73 incandescent wedge lamps is very little in amperge draw but more in wattage output...but definitely different brightness and especially lifetimes!!
Check out the difference between these two lamps!.....>>>
(https://www.bulbtown.com/v/vspfiles/templates/torque/images/clear1x1.gif) #74 Miniature Bulb Glass Wedge Base - 14.0 Volt 0.10 Amp 1.4 Watt T-1-3/4 Sub-Miniature Glass Wedge Base, C-2F Filament Design 0.70 MSCP. 0.80" (20.32mm) Maximum Overall Length, 0.2188" (5.5mm) Maximum Outer Diameter. 0.40" (10.16mm) Light Center Length (LCL). 500 Average Rated Hours.
#73 Miniature Bulb Glass Wedge Base - 14.0 Volt 0.08 Amp 1.12 Watt T-1-3/4 Sub-Miniature Glass Wedge Base, C-2F Filament Design 0.30 MSCP. 0.80" (20.32mm) Maximum Overall Length, 0.2188" (5.5mm) Maximum Outer Diameter. 0.40" (10.16mm) Light Center Length (LCL). 15,000 Average Rated Hours.
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Thanks Stayouttadabunker. Great info! That was my understanding with the two bulbs also. The LEDs I used do not have a ton of info or specs but the draw was considerably less than incandescent bulbs.
Here's a link to what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XY27Y3R?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
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Be careful with those...
I had some one time that melted my plastic deck buttons - I had to get new ones.
Others were a touch too wide in diameter and rubbed against the return spring, I sanded them down a little to fit then THEY melted also.
It's important to not to get them too "hot" in brightness.