New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: Kjtemp on October 26, 2020, 07:46:39 PM
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Hello all. First time poster and slot owner. Getting error 21. I have cleaned the optics and have new nickel in coin comparator. I have noticed that the door optics are completely gone. No wires no optics. Also the reset key has been replaced with a button.
I've read that cleaning the optics then closing the door should clear error 21 but since the door optics are gone I have no idea if I am triggering a door closed or not.
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well....something else may have been installed in the place of the door optics (emitter & receiver) such as a cherry switch.
Is there one located on the cabinet where the door might have a plate that pushes against it?
Someone that owned the machine earlier may have swapped out door optics for a switch instead?
Also, when you close the door, carefully observe the "Coins Played" display.
It will momentarily go blank then come back on with either the same number or a different number if logic signals are running in the wires back to the MPU - as if there were optics installed.
If so, then the swap of door optics by the previous owner to a cherry switch is working okay and
your machine's MPU is sensing this "event" as if the door is being opened or closed.
Finally, an error code [21] means that coin comparitor sensed a problem with coins being inserted or something else is amiss in that area such as a loose or broken wire.
Closing the door fully, whether by the means of door sensors as optics or a cherry switch, should clear the error code [21]...>>>
providing that the error coming from the coin comparitor area has been looked at and serviced properly.
If not, the error will only come back right away.
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So I found a two prong wire that looks like it had been modded. Unplugged then plugged back in and the numbers screen turn off and the reels turned. Now it's displaying a 3200 error which is the hopper?
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correct...Error code [3200] means that coins are jammed in the hopper...usually at the bottom side of the bowl against the wheel.
Check the hopper for obstructions, put back in and try opening /closing the door they way you did in your last Reply.
Could you post a good photo of the "two prong wire" modification?
In the slot world, we call those "pins"...either male or female pins and the housing that they are in is usually called a Molex connector - the company that made them for IGT.
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I've got good pictures but they are all over 1mb. Most of the time when I trigger open/close door the hopper buzzes like it wants to move. Sometimes it does move slightly. Does it need coins to trigger it to move?
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https://tinyjpg.com/ will compress jpg images
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Thanks for the link. Very handy to have. So the part circled in orange was what I saw. The part in red is what I disconnect and reconnect to trigger the open/close. Logically I thought this must be the bypass since it's the only set of wires that has obviously been modified. The long red cable must be from the change button to disable it.
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If you follow those pair of wires...one should go to a cherry switch while the other one should go back to the back-plane board.
Ideally, each pair goes to an emitter or receiver optic with one located on the door frame and the other on the cabinet frame.
I suspect that mod was made because they either couldn't line up the door optics correctly or one optic burned out and they couldn't find a replacement.
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I think I found the culprit for error 3200.
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yep....you really gotta clean that up....the oxidization is going to cause all kinds of jams in that coin elevator...especially if it's the wrong sized coins!
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Everything on the machine says it's for nickels and found a label on the inside for 5 centd but yeah the hopper is fairly dirty. Maybe pennies would be better? Any good tutorials on taking the hopper out?
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Nickels are best because of how thick they are.
If you slide a nickel into the elevator slide, you will see that the slides should be the perfect width of a nickel.
If the slides are wider, then you might have to use a larger coin such as a quarter.
Pennies and dimes will only get jammed under the hopper knife causing nothing but coin jams.
The hopper and coin elevator attached to it is held by metal slides as well....there should be a handle on it....just pull on the handle and it should slide outta there.
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to remove the hopper from a slant top machine, remove the lower door, its heavy and will do a number on your shins? once the door is off, remove the coin acceptor assembly, now pull the hopper forward and you will have to tilt it to remove it. take a picture of how everything is in place before you remove it, pay attention to the slot up at the top where it guides the escalator to line up with the coin bowl.
once removed, remove the coin bowl so you see how everything is attached, as the pin wheel rotates CCW it will pick up the coins and bring them up to the top, roll the coin onto the knife and roll it into the bottom of the escalator, the additional coins being brought to the same spot is what actually pushes the coins to the top. the key to proper operation is the cleaning of the interior of the both sides of the inner rails of the escalator, this is accomplished by using a thin sawsall blade into the escalator and running it up and down on both sides, you will be amazed at all the dirt and gunk. you have to remove the escalator in order to do this, when complete you should be able turn the escalator upside down, inset a coin into it (while holding the counter arm out , on the other end, of the way) the coin should roll through the escalator with out any hesitation at all ,smooth and quick. re assemble and test the complete unit out of the machine, the motor is 115 vac, you can hook up a cheater cord and apply voltage and observe the operation.
Hope this helps
Jim
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Took the hopper out and found a homemade stainless steel knife was pushing the nickel up. I adjusted the knife so the nickel wouldn't catch like it was then cleaned the inside. Placed back in and now I get 3300 which is hopper empty. So I take that as a good sign? How many nickels do I need?
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you need to fill up the escalator first , takes about 15 to twenty coins, other wise you will have to keep opening and closing the door until there is a steady flow of coins being dispensed. with the door open, you can press the white test button until you get a 3 in the coins played window, this is the hopper test press the spin button and the hopper should count out ten coins, if it does this a couple of times without fail then you should be good to go.
Jim
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I have here in my workroom, an escalator for larger coins if you want.
A member sent it to me years ago...
I think it was made for Ike coins or some larger casino tokens.
I have the coins that were in the escalator but it's now stored away someplace.
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The hopper just buzzes and won't move...sign I though I was close.
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Time to pull the hopper out and bench test it with a power strip and cord.
Here's a video I made about 8 years ago I think....on an S+ upright hopper...
The beau plug on your sit down is the same I would think?
Gotta fashion an extension cord to fit onto the bottom two pins of the hopper.
Use a power strip switch to turn on and off!
Link to video...>>>
https://youtu.be/qsea8ltUwWk
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The hopper disc won't even budge forward or back now. No coins jamming. What else is there left to check?
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the brakes on the back of the hopper motor...should be a spring on the brake pawl.
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The spring is on it but the magnetic switch doesn't come up enough to fully lift the red brake. Once I was able to help the magnetic switch lift the brake the machine was able to accept credits and spin. How can I make the magnetic switch fully lift the brake?
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there are three parts to the brake assembly, the pivot arm, the red pawl and the spring. when the motor is energized its magnetic induction pulls in the pivot arm, the pivot arm has a plastic probe on it that will come in contact with the red pawl moving it out of the way so the motor can begin to turn, as soon as the motor stops the pivot arm is released and the spring on the red pawl will allow it to engage with the motor armature stops and stop the motor.
either the brake parts are not assembled correctly or the plastic probe is broken off the pivot arm.
Hope this helps
Jim
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It seems like the magnetic field is not strong enough to fully pull the pivot arm to fully pull the red pawl.
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I'm guessing I need to clean that area or adjust the spring?
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Yes
I would clean in between the two pieces so when it's energized that it pulls the lever in. Someones bourbon and coke grim in there doesn't help.
Then if I had to I would more tension on the spring.
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Have you tried to operate the unit out of the machine? that is the only way you are going to see what is going on!!! take a picture of the components and how they are installed.
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I got it working. Adjusted the coin comparator and coins are going in and credit up. Even better is the credit/cash button works so winnings now go to credit and machine is much better to use. So now the only thing is the bill accepter won't activate when I try to put a dollar in. It is lit up.
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"...Adjusted the CC..."
You have to be bloody kidding us?!
That fixed this [Coin-In Error] error?
I've never seen a maladjusted CC cause this.
Usually it just spits coins back into the coin tray but it doesn't cause a machine error.
That's a first I've seen in 20 years!
Anyway, glad you got it working but I don't think that is what fixed it.
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Yeah by adjusting I mean I turned the pedometer back to the left until I could consistently insert nickels. I could only do this after clearing all the other errors. After that everything is steady. Except the bill accepter. Thank you all for getting me to this point.