New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: Fordman7795 on November 03, 2014, 04:13:06 PM
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Hello all, this is my first slot machine. I bought it at a garage sale for $50. Its a 1994 S+ Double Diamond. When I bought it, the only thing I knew about it was it looked complete and it turned on (but did not function). I took it home and realized I had error 12. From this board I was able to replace the battery on the MPU. After that I got error 61. I cleared that off then got error 61-1. I did not have a jackpot reset key so I ordered one on ebay for $4. Just got that in today and reset that and it appeared to be working (minus the coin accceptor). The bill validator took my $1 bill and gave me 4 credits. I played the four and then hit a 10 credit win. I hit cash out just to see what would happen and the machine completely shut off. I cannot get it to turn back on at all. It did not trip a household breaker. Up until putting the bill in I tried to get it to accept a coin but I could not figure that out. So once I get it turned on again then we can talk about the coin acceptance issue. Thanks for all the help.
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Strange that it shut off. Should have given code 3300 for empty hopper. Check the fuses under bill validator. If one is blown you need to pull the hopper out. It is most likely locked up. On the motor end there is a lever to push so you can turn the motor by hand. If it won't turn one way try the other. Many times people dump their pocket change in the hopper and a nickel or dime gets jammed. Your machine will not be ready to play again until it can pay those coins unless you do a clear, but better to find the issue first. Good Luck and welcome to the forum.
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Open the door, pull out coin hopper, and there will be a white connector that plugs in to board on bottom, Its probably burnt it come from the power supply on right side.
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Bottom 6a fuse was blown. Not sure if i have a replacement here if not ill bring one home from work tomorrow.
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Fordman,
Better check to be sure there isn't a short in or around the motor. It is run by a relay that switches 110 volts. Sounds like when you cashed out and the relay pulled in, the circuit was completed through the short. I don't have a really clear S+ print to look at to help you trace the circuit.
I have not seen a fuse blow from a jammed hopper. Maybe others have.
Let us know what you see around the connectors, could be something physically broken causing a short.
Even if you have to do some troubleshooting and maybe buy a few parts, you got a really good deal for 50 bucks!
Josh
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Put a new fuse in (without the hopper installed). Unit powered on with flashing 3200 code. I put the hopper in and it instantly blew the fuse again. I have not heard the hopper actually make any noise so i do not know if it works.
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check to see if the motor spins. Do you see any broken wires? Like I said before on the left side there is a small lever the engages the motor shaft. You can depress it and turn the motor by finger. If it won't turn one direction try the other. Worst case remove to hopper bowl to see the wheel shelf and knife. Something has it bound up. I suspect a smaller coin, but may be a screw.
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The wheel moves just a little bit in both directions until it hits the roll pin. Doesnt seem to want to move past that point.
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One is not connected to anything
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Didnt see anything stuck
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I can move the red bushing with a screwdriver to spin the motor but it seems to be tight
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So it powered up and displayed 3200, then you put the hopper back in and it instantly blew the fuse, right? 3200 is coin out tilt, better known as hopper fill. If this is showing on the display, the machine is no longer trying to run the hopper motor since it thinks the hopper is empty and needs to be refilled with coins. Since the hopper motor is not being run at this point, the overload is not from the motor trying to run, but it must be a short in the wiring, most likely to the chassis. Your wiring on your hopper does not look like mine at all. I think someone messed with it. On my hopper, from the view you show of the plug. The column in the foreground, top to bottom are orange/white to the hopper sense screw, middle is green to the ground screw, and the bottom is white/black to one side of the motor. You have a green ground wire where mine has the white/black to the one motor lead, giving a dead short. The column in the background top to bottom is yellow to the optics, middle is red to the optics and bottom is white/red to the other motor lead. This looks right on your unit, I think I see a bit of red on the bottom wire.
Try removing the green lead from the foreground bottom and putting the loose lead, which I would guess is a white/black in that position. I think that might fix the fuse blowing problem. If you have an ohm meter, the resistance between the bottom two pins reads about 3 ohms on my lab grade meter. Might be hard to read such a low resistance with a cheaper meter. Between either pins and the metal chassis should be an open circuit.
Holding back the motor brake, the little lever on the motor opposite the coil, should allow you to spin the motor by what is the red part on the motor shaft. Mine spins fairly freely, but it takes a lot of revolutions to get the hopper wheel to move.
See if this gets you anywhere. Hope it does. I am no slot expert, just an old skool two-way radio and microwave tech.
Josh
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Thanks for the info. I found a ground that was cut off inside the machine near where the hopper connects.
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Where should that be connected to?
I flipped those wires around and going to test it in a second. Is something supposed to be connected to the middle prong (its a round male end on the other side)
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Thanks 72polara, that seemed to solve my fuse blowing problem. I can hear the motor trying to spin but it must be stuck. Before installing it I hooked the shaft to my cordless drill and it was able to spin the mechanism but i can still feel resistance. I tried to "jump start" it again while in the unit but it wont stay spinning. I think i need a new motor.
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The large round pin in this application is just an index/guide pin. No connection, and on mine there is not even a terminal to connect anything to.
The ground lug with nothing on it in the base of the cabinet doesn't seem related. Probably from some progressive or player tracking casino add on. I wouldn't worry about it.
Thinking of something else and you posted as I typed this. You said the machine initially went dark when you hit cash out, but then later it went dark by just plugging in the hopper? The solid state relay may be shorted now. If you plug in the hopper and it runs (or as you say tries to run) all the time, then this is likely the case. This relay is the black part in the picture you just posted. If 3200 is being shown and the motor is trying to run, then we have other issues.
I'll look in the morning when there is good light to see how the solid state relay is wired and I'll make some measurements on mine to compare to yours. Hopefully you have a volt-ohm meter. If not, get a free one at Harbor Freight Tools.
The stuck motor might be able to be freed up with some lubrication. The gearbox might need to be taken apart, cleaned and lubricated. Never did one of these but have done several gear motor drives for Cadillac electric antennas (side job restoring Caddy parts for a local restoration supply).
What sort of electronics skills and test equipment do you have to troubleshoot further?
On the hopper, where the green wires come together, you have a total of 4. One to the optics, one lug with two wires one of which should go to the gearbox frame and one to the middle pin on the connector foreground side. The fourth one I take it is the extra green that has no place to go now. My hopper only has the one to the optics and the one lug with two wires as I described above.
Let me look things over here in the morning and see how we should proceed with solving your problems.
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The large round pin in this application is just an index/guide pin. No connection, and on mine there is not even a terminal to connect anything to.
Ok, good
The ground lug with nothing on it in the base of the cabinet doesn't seem related. Probably from some progressive or player tracking casino add on. I wouldn't worry about it.
Ok
Thinking of something else and you posted as I typed this. You said the machine initially went dark when you hit cash out, but then later it went dark by just plugging in the hopper? The solid state relay may be shorted now. If you plug in the hopper and it runs (or as you say tries to run) all the time, then this is likely the case. This relay is the black part in the picture you just posted. If 3200 is being shown and the motor is trying to run, then we have other issues.
The fuse was blowing at basically the same point. I hit cash out and it blew the fuse. The second time it was still trying to cash out when i plugged it in. Either way, i think the machine is up and running again minus the hopper motor that wont spin.
I'll look in the morning when there is good light to see how the solid state relay is wired and I'll make some measurements on mine to compare to yours. Hopefully you have a volt-ohm meter. If not, get a free one at Harbor Freight Tools.
The stuck motor might be able to be freed up with some lubrication. The gearbox might need to be taken apart, cleaned and lubricated. Never did one of these but have done several gear motor drives for Cadillac electric antennas (side job restoring Caddy parts for a local restoration supply).
What sort of electronics skills and test equipment do you have to troubleshoot further?
Above average skills and equipment (part time car mechanic, fluke meter)
On the hopper, where the green wires come together, you have a total of 4. One to the optics, one lug with two wires one of which should go to the gearbox frame and one to the middle pin on the connector foreground side. The fourth one I take it is the extra green that has no place to go now. My hopper only has the one to the optics and the one lug with two wires as I described above.
Let me look things over here in the morning and see how we should proceed with solving your problems.
Ill take the motor apart a little further tomorrow and hopefully get some lube in it and dry run it again on the drill. Thanks
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Fordman,
You are good to go when it comes to fixing these things. Anyone with a Fluke meter that is also a mechanic is OK in my book!
I had a 3200 tilt the other day from hitting the cash out by accident with a stupid amount of credits on the machine. Once the tilt comes it, it stops trying until you open and close the door since it assumes you filled the hopper and the payout can resume. So your relay is probably still good, protected by the fuse.
Might take the hopper wheel apart first. Could be coins or crap jammed in there from the wrong denomination coins being used at some point. While holding the brake, the hopper wheel can be turned, but it takes a lot of force to do so. I would carefully run power, with a fuse of course, to the motor on the bench to observe operations once I started digging in.
Good luck and good night,
Josh 72polara
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3200 is typically indicating that the machine is seeing the coin-out optics blocked for too long, and thinks the hopper is jammed. 3300, on the other hand, is an empty hopper (the optics haven't seen a coin pass by in at least 7 seconds) and is a more typical error message.
Are you still getting the 3200 error, Fordman? If so, I'd be looking towards the coin-out optics.
I just looked at the hoppers in my S+ machines, and the wiring matches what you now have. From top to bottom, starting with the wires closest to you as you look at it from the open side of the assembly, it's orange/white stripe, green, and white/black stripe. Top to bottom on the far side is yellow (from the optics), red (from the optics), and white/red stripe.
With the power off, put the hopper in, put at least 20 coins in the hopper, turn the machine on, and see what happens. If you still get the 3200 error, let us know what SP chip you have in your machine and we can get you the PSR and documentation on how to get to the self test settings to check the coin-out optics to see if they're bad.
To determine your SP chip, the easiest method is to turn the power off first, then remove the MPU board (the silver tray in the back of the machine with the black plastic knob on it), and see what the label is on your SP chip. IMPORTANT: Never remove or insert the MPU board while the machine is powered on -- permanent damage to the board could occur.
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Im now getting 3300 error after the 7 second delay. The hopper motor is trying to spin but isnt. Gonna try to either free up the motor or replace it
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Does everything move ok if you release the break and spin it by hand? Not sure about S+ but on my S2000'S I've had dried up grease in the gearbox stop motor from turning. Took the gearbox apart, cleaned and regreased and got a good working hopper again
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Sorry guys, I was wrong on the 3200 code. I guess that happens when trying to think too late in the evening.
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I don't think any of us are expecting the motor to be the problem. Most likely something stuck between the knife and the hopper. It sounds like you have removed the motor. Did you try to spin the coin shelf then? I have also seen the rubber agitator melt like and stick the wheel from turning. If there is something jammed like I think, while looking in the bowl you will want the wheel to turn to the right (clockwise) I have a dime in my possession that is bent 20 degrees from being stuck. With the motor out it should spin easily by hand.
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I had one (not an s+) that the screws with the springs were tightened down so much it pinched the shelf and wouldn't let it turn.
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The hopper is the easiest thing to work on, don't make it complicated. it only does three things, turns the motor, counts the coins and gives a signal to the divert the coins when the bowl is filled.
The motor (or turning) part can be checked out of the machine. Manually--hold motor brake arm so that the arm comes in contact with the motor armature, reach in and turn the rubber star agitator CCW, (it takes some force to do this---NOTE if this was a dollar hopper converted to a Quarter hopper you may not be able to move it by hand--- the gear box had a different ratio than that of a quarter) Electrically--- make a cheater cord ( a power cord that has a plug on one end and two push on connectors on the other end ---the push on connectors should be the same size as the motor) remove the two wires attached to the motor, and replace them with the cheater cord push on connectors, plug the other end into a fuse protected, power on/off switch type power strip, use the on/ off switch to apply 115vac to the hopper motor, it should turn the motor on and it should run as long as power is applied. If the motor runs then the motor and gear box are doing what they should be doing.
One reason the motor could be binding---- long screws holding the star agitator, they will protrude beyond the wheel and rub against the metal housing frame. you can observe this by removing the bowl and actually looking at the underside of the pinwheel, its would be quite obvious.
the bowl can be removed easily, remove the four screws two black and two silver, remove any weight springs, you may have to turn the bowl assembly CCW to get it to clear the coin knife washers. with the bowl off you can look at everything and inspect knife and all operating parts.
The bowl goes on just as it came off. you will need a LONG screwdriver to get the one screw off, the holes in the bowl are made for this purpose. the black screws are on the top, left and right, the silver screws are on the bottom, left and right.
Hope this helps
Jim
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I know this is going to sound strange, but I had this same exact issue. The fuse would blow anytime the hopper was plugged in. After swapping hoppers, I was like WTF, the fuse blows on multiple hoppers. I have no idea why this would make sense, but my problem ended up being one of the handle solenoid wires touching the cabinet. All I can figure is maybe removing the hopper takes away the voltage path to that area? Anyway, does not hurt to check that solenoid area for shorts. I need to get a schematic to see if that could make some sense of things.
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I took the hopper motor apart and cleaned the armature. The hopper spun smooth with it out. Put it all back together and it works great. For the first few attempts it kept shorting me one coin. But now it seems to be spot on. Thanks for all the help. Next is to figure out the coin comparitor.
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Great news!!! Glad you got it to work. One thing down, another to go.
Make sure the sample coin is in proper position, and maybe try another coin. Mine on occasion will act up and not take coins. I guess I need to do the calibration procedure on it.
By the time you get that machine 100%, you'll be a first rate slot mechanic!
Josh
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If you have questions on your coin comparison go ahead and start a new topic for that, thank you