New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT AVP (Including G20,G23) => Topic started by: nlosure on August 31, 2023, 01:18:40 PM
-
All, I had to replace the batteries on the unit. After replacing them all my machine will do is reboot. I put the ekey and diag in and it won't pick it up, just reboots. I tried reinstalling the OS and it will complete when I am done, it won't do anything but reboot. Do you have any suggestions on what I should do? Anyone have similar issues?
-
After changing all the batteries you have to re-enable all games. Since you messed up and re-installed the OS you now have to re-install all games and then re-enable them.
-
It just rebooted and didn't show an error over and over. Then I cleared the memory with the jumper on the pc. I cant do anything but install the os at this point.
It never boots up for me to get to that point. I can't even get into the diagnostics when I use the diagnostics key with the ekey, it reboots and the screens go black and they and say usb mass storage authentication failed.
-
What jumper are you talking about? There is no jumper to clear memory.
-
there is a clear memory next to the battery the cR2023. There are three pins and the one that is not used is the jumper for the memory. I did that without the battery plugged in. I reinstalled the OS, rebooted with ekey and Diagnostic and get this image. It starts with the AVP and then stops and screen goes black showing below: (USB mass storage authentication failed!! System will retry in 10 seconds.)
-
That's not the machine's memory, that's just CMOS for the pc mainboard where it keeps the date/time and hard drive configuration.
USB Mass authentication failed, means your diagnostic key is not passing validation. If you inserted the diagnostic flash drive into a PC, it would have written a hidden "System Volume Information" directory where windows keeps an index of the files inside the flash drive and this is why it fails validation. You need to delete this folder, once you do, you will be able to boot into the Diagnostic screen. Here's a link on ways to do this:
https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-the-System-Volume-Information-Folder-from-a-Flash-Drive (https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-the-System-Volume-Information-Folder-from-a-Flash-Drive)
-
No luck, still same issue. I was able to modify my c drive like you outlined above. Should I purchase a new diagnostic stick?
-
The thumb drive doesn't show up at all in windows? Then your drive is corrupt. You may need to source another one. I'm assuming that you previously inserted the diagnostic drive into a pc (or a mac) and thus created the issue?
-
The thumb drive does show up in Windows, I just couldn't set it like the C drive in the instructions. I recopied everything and tried again but no luck. And yes, putting it into my pc seems to be the start of the current issue, had others outlined before. I wish I could get my hands on one or create a new one soon.
-
Give RB's batch file a try and see if it works.
https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=40441.msg213757#msg213757
-
Don't see the system error, just reboots after a small period of time. Doesn't bring up the diagnostics.
Short recap of what started things - I got a 3.3v out of acceptable range error
- I replaced the main battery and the 2 on the pci card.
- Tried rebooting with Diag key - no luck just reboots over and over
- Cleared CMOS using steps on IGT sheet:
AVP 3.0 CMOS Clearing
All procedures for RAM checks apply as seen in the proceeding AVP 2.0 instructions using a USB keyboard.
All ESD precautions apply
AVP 3.0 uses the same BIOS Password as 2.0 and 2.5.
1. The CMOS Jumper is at J/P4. See figure 9 on the next page.
2. The hard drive will have to be removed to access J/P 4.
3. Move the jumper to pins 2 & 3 and leave in place for 30 seconds.
4. After 30 seconds, move the jumper back to its normal position across pins 1 & 2. CMOS has been
cleared Install the Brain Box
8. Power on the machine and when the machine is booting, enter the BIOS and select “Load Optimized
Defaults”. Hit F10 to save and exit.
9. Proceed with game restoration[/quote]
* Didnt work so tried the Load Optimized Defaults option on the Bios and then set clock like the Hard Drive read errors IGT Document
- retried loading with ekey and diag and machine just kept rebooting
- put diag key in windows pc (like a dummy)
- got system error above
- ran batch provided above
- now back to continuous reboot after starting the system up with the ekey and Diag thumb drive
-
The 3.3V out of range error isn't a battery issue, it's a ATX power supply problem. If it was a battery problem it will tell you battery low.
After you ran the batch file were you able to get the system to boot up the diagnostic menus?
-
No I was not able to get the system to boot up to diagnostic menu. I still get the reboot sequence. I have another power supply from a pc, should I try hooking that up to the brain box? I also bought a new SSD for the unit and was able to install the OS to the drive, but it fails on the next step of running the diagnostic or even trying to boot up. Could the issue be on the unit above the cpu or something?
-
When you were in the diagnostics menu did you wipe all the memory (cabinet, safe storage, and hard disk) prior to reloading the OS?
-
When you were in the diagnostics menu did you wipe all the memory (cabinet, safe storage, and hard disk) prior to reloading the OS?
No I have not been able to get into the diagnostic menu period since this issue. I just installed the os with the ekey and os image onto the new drive. I am also using the diag key 014-21.
-
Sorry, I misread your post. You're going to need to get a working diagnostic USB drive before so you can wipe everything prior to reloading the OS. That's why it's failing authentication.
You may still get a board monitor tilt for the 3.3V supply afterwards too. If so, you'll need to replace the ATX power supply board. It's a small square board that sits on top or inside of the brain box depending on what model you have. It's not a computer type ATX power supply.
Just FYI some brands/models of SSDs aren't compatible with the system. I've had good luck with PNY drives myself. Don't waste your money on a hi-capacity drive as you will run out of NVRAM memory before you can fill even a 120GB hard drive.
-
Are the ATX power supply boards propiatary? Are they standard items I can get on amazon or something or do I need to do ebay (I see one out there now)?
Is there any way to put in a new drive and boot to diag to bypass the authentication or something where my diag can come up? I am concerned that my diag key is not working properly and don't have a way to verify that piece either. I will buy a new diag key, but is there any place to get one quickly or download one on a windows 7 pc? I really want to get this up and running for the weekend. I just got the machine less than a week ago and it is causing some marriage issues at the moment since it is not running and I bought the machine.
-
Contact our member RB. He can get you a diag.
https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=profile;u=164 (https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=profile;u=164)
Thanks,
Wayne
-
The board is proprietary. I have some, but will need a pic of yours just to make sure it's the correct one.
I sent you a PM too.
-
Here they are
-
IGT had a recall on the cable that connects the ATX power supply to the mpu. It would get full of casino gunk and cause poor connections. Sometimes just cleaning the contacts on the cable with detoxit or something similar will get rid of the board monitor tilt.
If you inserted the USB diagnostic key on a pc and it doesn't come up as a standard USB flash drive, then your drive is not in working condition. In the future, if you get a working diagnostic key, never insert it into a pc or a mac as it will cause the validation issue as stuff gets automatically written into the drive, it can be fixed by removing the contents the OS wrote, but if it doesn't even come up as a standard flash drive in windows or MacOS, then you have a bad drive. You also cannot get past validation errors until you have a properly formated SSD/HD inside the mpu or have a working diagnostic key to boot along with the ekey. A bad diagnostic key results in the USB storage validation issue.
-
And if Rick's suggestion to clean the contacts fails I have the correct one. Brand New, well new old stock anyhow, but never used in a machine. I'll let ya have it for $20 + $10 shipping. It will fit in a USPS small flat rate box and they're charging I think almost $11 to ship one of those now. I cut ya some slack on the board price so the marital issues don't get worse :Tongue_Out:
-
Verify your cabinet ribbon cable is not buggered. I've seen those with damaged ends cause reboots, if it wasn't throwing bizarre cabinet memory errors.
Pull the hard drive completely and try booting into diag. The USB failing authentication is one thing but I've yet to come across a system where it wouldn't at least boot into diagnostics with a drive pulled.
The ATX power supply just converts either 12v or 24v (I forget which one of the two it was) to the various voltage the CPU wants. I've been desperate enough to bypass it entirely for testing and just plug a regular ATX power supply in.
-
The USB failing authentication is because the diagnostic drive is bad, that is why he can't go into diagnostic, it doesn't matter if the internal hard drive is good or bad, that has nothing to do with a USB authentication failure.
-
Verify your cabinet ribbon cable is not buggered. I've seen those with damaged ends cause reboots, if it wasn't throwing bizarre cabinet memory errors.
Pull the hard drive completely and try booting into diag. The USB failing authentication is one thing but I've yet to come across a system where it wouldn't at least boot into diagnostics with a drive pulled.
The ATX power supply just converts either 12v or 24v (I forget which one of the two it was) to the various voltage the CPU wants. I've been desperate enough to bypass it entirely for testing and just plug a regular ATX power supply in.
I appear to be the first, pulled drive, no luck, no diag screen. Was hopeful on that so I could wipe out the ram, etc. Any other ideas?
-
So I disabled the logo on the bios. Seems like the hard drive is ok and the key seems to authenticate. Does anyone know what comes next? Reboots immediately after.
-
It's showing that it sees the Hitachi HDD, and next it's showing that it sees the USB device and that the USB device authenticates successfully. It's not showing the HDD authenticated. What USB device was plugged in, the DIAG, Ekey, or both?
-
I had both the ekey and the diag drive plugged in.
-
Ok, try it with just the Diag installed and see what it says.
-
Stops here and reboots. Off to validate CMOS.
-
Matched BIOS settings with working G20, no luck. There were a few setting changes that were not on the default bios.
-
Here is my manual way of removing the "system volume information" from the diag USB. Remember every time you put it in your computer you must do this!
https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=39548.0
-
I was hoping for better news this morning. I have a working Diag and new ATX power supply on the way, hopefully one or both of those will resolve this problem for you. I'm running out of other ideas.
-
So for conclusion on this thread.
-replaced ribbon to CPU
-replaced PCI Card
I would try them in that order.
Now to my Tito protocol issue :banghead:
-
Give RB's batch file a try and see if it works.
https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=40441.msg213757#msg213757
Thats my file.
Edit: correction its not even really mine in the sense that i made it the code was found on a random site. That specific file tho is mine added it to the file share drive thats been making its rounds through the community.
-
Fair enough. He posted a link for it, so I said his batch file. I didn't necessarily mean he was the author of it, just that he possessed it and shared it. I always like to give credit where credit is due, but it's not always easy to determine where something originally came from. Sometimes it's that way intentionally, other times not. Anyways thanks.
-
Normally I just go in, and physically remove 1 byte file folders.
They'e petty easy to spot on older, small capacity CF cards.
That usually restores the CF cards back to where it was before it was inseted into Windows based computer with an OS newer than Win7.
There's too many of these 1 byte files on these larger cards tho. :banghead:
That program Retro Tech found should be much quicker and will definitely help restore a CF card I would imagine, I just haven't had a chance to run it yet.
-
Well in this case we're talking about AVP machines and USB thumb drives, but if it works on CF cards too then great.