New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT I-Game and Game King => Topic started by: gkfan on November 16, 2014, 08:52:35 AM
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My GameKing developed a little brain damage. The game buttons auto-cycle and I can sit back and watch the game play it's self. Where do I start trouble shooting? Already tried a reset. Also have a video problem that I believe is MB related. After the game warms up it goes away and the Video Boards have been repaired by the manufacturer. If it's the MB would like to upgrade any recommendations? Have a 14" Model #96407600.
GKfan :hissyfit:
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14" gameking, can you post a picture of our machine with the door open and the mpu board so we can Identify your machine type. Usually those kinds of errors are I/O based, but based on your screen size, I'm not sure if you have an 3802 system or the newer 3902 or 044 type.
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Here are the photos you requested.
Wayne
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You have a 3802 system. Unfortunately for you, the I/O system is in those card cages above the monitor. On the newer systems, the I/O are in these little cards that are easy to change. Not the case for you. I would try a power supply since they are cheap enough, but after that, you would need to try and find your I/O board sets, or an MPU board would be my next guess.
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Rick I don't know what he has but that isn't a 3802 board. The sound board is all wrong and a 3802 board the CG eproms are installed on the main board. It does look close to a 3802 but not the same.
Gkfan That IO that you have, I've owned a bunch of machines with that type IO and I have never had to replace one. ( I still have four ) Now I'm not saying they are good for life, but they are pretty damn good.
If you will just pull on the handle of the IO there will be enough slack in the wires for it to come out a inch or two. Then push it back in, this should make sure all the pins are getting contact. OR ( and it does need to be done ) unplug the five plugs on the front of the IO and pull on the handle, it will come right loose from the mother board. Look it over for a burn mark.
This I'm not sure of if a button were to be stuck in the down position would the game keep playing ?? It won't on a newer type board but your old board I'm not sure. Do this press on the Max bet button and then the deal button and you will hear a small click coming from the micro switch, if you don't hear a click theres something wrong.
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Buzz, it looks like some kind of eprom extension board on a 3802 board.
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Buzz, it looks like some kind of eprom extension board on a 3802 board.
Sounds like that Blond Lady down the street " Only her hairdresser and her Ob/Gyn Doctor knows for sure "
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It's upside down in the pic, but I think I made out the last 4 digits to be 3803? :Scratch-Head: That extension board is interesting, like the MML predecessor.
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Actually I was at the comand center today and Joey has a huge monitor on his PC. Thats just one of those old skinny sound boards and the CG eproms are installed on the main board.
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I would bet it's a power supply issue. Look in the error logs and see if anything in there points to restarts...
Kirk
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Here is a list of all the boards and e-proms on my slot. The switches checked out and the game worked for a few minutes. I am begining to not like this machine. One of you suggested I replace the: Power supply, MPU, and I/O board. Why not buy a new machine???
I think its time to upgrade any suggestions?
I/O Boards:
Lrg Board Copy write 1994, Mfg. China
Part # 75425201, Rev C, Code 100973 Date 932, asmbly 7542520
Small Board Copy write 1993, China
Part # 75424805, Rev B, Code Code 100973 Date 932, asmbly 7542480
Expansion Board on MCU
Copy write 1995 Part# 13901290
2 chips SND 1&2 AZI, Part # SWC00046
MCU (MPU whatever):
Copy write 1996 China
Part # 76703803, Ends in 3 not 2 or 40.
Chips:
CG 1&2, AZI, 2/16/00, Part # C0000351
Base Chip:, 2/1/01, AZI Part # M0000533
PLX 1&2, AZI, 2/16/00, Part # C0000351
GME 1&2, AZI, 4/4/05, Part # G0002955
Vote for the component to replace first!!! Power supply has two votes so far.
I cannot get into the attendant menu, get a nice musical background. Still self plays???
Wayne
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I don't know how cheap you can buy a different machine, but the MPU, Power Supply, and I/Os will only cost you $200-250 all together....and chances are its not all 3. More than one person has said it sounds like a Power Supply issue, so for $50-60, you would know that answer for sure.
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OK I have a couple of questions, you say the machine Auto Cycles :Scratch-Head: :Scratch-Head: My question is does the machine deal a complete hand and then deal another complete hand without you doing anything ?? Is it repeating the same hand or is it dealing a different hand each time??
I can only guess but I think your problem is in either the software or the MPU, so let me make you a few different offers. First your more than welcome to send me your board and software and I will test them in a good machine. (no charge ) If the test is good I can mail it back the next day. Or I can send you the only 3802 board I still have at no charge, but be aware this board is screwed up and you will have NO sound. ( to me it's junk and I never tried to fix the sound problem ) Next offer, I send you a 3902 MPU, if it fixes your problem you owe me $80 for the board. If you do change to a 3902 board your going to have to change your sound board to a MM II sound board $20. Next offer I send you a 3902 with eprom software plus a eprom MM II sound board if this fixes the problem the board is $80, software $50 and MM II $20. You will be more than welcome to send back any or all of the parts you don't need. ( the ball is in your court )
Need to add this, the MM II eprom sound board I was talking about will not work if you at a later date want to change to a Simm based game. To be clear a Simm will not fit on a eprom sound board. ( either a eprom or a Simm MM II will work on a 3902 MPU ) Oh and a 3902 will work with the mother board you have for the 3803 MPU you now have ( plugs right in )
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Buzz,
I sent you a PM Friday. Let me know if your still available to help troubleshoot the board?
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Problem fixed thanks to help from Buzz. It was the 3803 board, leakage from the green 3 volt Varta battery ate some traces away. Upgraded to a 3902 board and am sorry I waited this long to upgrade.
Thanks a million Buzz.