New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: ersk3 on November 18, 2014, 11:50:03 AM
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Hi guys
I just bought an IGT s+ slot machine. It's a four wheel machine with a progressive board. The machine is called: "Danmark Jackpot".
It comes a small sound in the machine when it powers up and shutting down, and the speaker is connected. But it comes no sound at all through game play. Any idèa what can be wrong?
Best regards Erik
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Pictures
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Erik on the left side of the hopper on the top of the mpu is a little blue dial. It's the volume adjustment. Try turning it fully toward the front of the machine. See if that helps the volume. Dave
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Hi Shaggy
Thanks for reply. I did turn the volume dial as you told, but it is still the same. I took some pictures of the main board an chips. One chip-slot is free on the main board.
Any idêa?
Best regards Erik
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An empty slot isn't necessarily trouble. Mine have empty slots too. I wanted you to try the easiest solution first. Can you trace the wires back? Mine are green and white. I have an older S+ like yours and the sound while not like the "newer" machines is still there. There is a page on the top of the S+ forum about settings for the s+ machine a couple I think. Knagl has one for a 1271 chip I think. Those don't work for mine, but they might for yours. How to check if the reel noise is on etc. Keep checking, and if you don't find anything, there are people on here who are amazing. Don't give up, lots of help here, really good folks. My thoughts were: Trace the wires if you can and make sure nothing is unplugged. If it goes deeper you'll need more info than I can give you. Good luck. Dave
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The wires are green and white like yours, and goes into the main board.Thank you for your help. I will se if I can understand the settings. Erik
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The are about five things in a S+ that produce sound. 1) the Software 2) the CPU Board -- the circuitry is located by the blue volume knob. 3) the mother board. 4)the wiring to the speaker. and 5) the speaker --- this should read about 8 ohms with a multimeter. I have found most of the time either the cpu bd. or the speaker is the fault. Hope this helps.
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Hi Idylewild1
I did ohm the speaker, and it is 8 ohms, I altso tested it with a tone generator so I know it gives sound. I cleaned the volume knob with oxide cleaner. None of the components on the board are visable bad. I have been through most of the settings in the self test menu, and altso taken out all chips and back in. Nothing seems to work, there is still no sound at all. Only a small sound in the speaker when power on and of the machine.
My best gues is that the CPU board is bad and I need to get a new one. Or could it be the game chips that don't give sound? I think the chips are quite rare, maybe they don't give sound?
Thank you for your help
Best regards Erik
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a lot of times the output cap is the problem. its the cap at the end of the board near the volume knob, its a 220 micro farad electrolytic cap.
Jim
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Hi Jim
Thank you for your help. I did solder out all four electrolytic capacitors near the volume knob, and measured them with an esr meter. They all had nice values.
Erik
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Since you have soldering skills, as the next thing to try I'd replace that LM388 audio amp ic (U59? in the photo), it should be readily available & low cost. Might want to make sure it has power on pin 14, just in case there is a broken trace or something on the board. If you have a scope you could check for low level audio coming to the amp and amplified audio at the output. (might not be able to see the input signal if the impedance is really low). As an alternative, you could try injecting low level audio from your tone generator into the LM388 input to see if it amplifies and drives speaker.
That's a slick looking ESR meter, where did you get it and can you post a complete picture of it?
From the codes on the chips in the photo this board (and likely the machine) dates from the early 1990's. Nice condition for that many years.
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Hi rokgpsman
I orderd a new LM388 IC, but it will take some time to get it deliverd to Norway. I will try this weekend to generate a input signal into the LM388 as suggested, and do some measurements. The ESR-meter is just a cheap one bought from ebay; search for item number 281328615581, I think this is same as mine. It's easy to use and verry handy. You might want to solder on some crocodile clamps on the board for easy measuring.
From the labels on the cabinet, the mashine is prodused in 1992. On the reel chip it stands 1994. I have searched on google and forums for information on this machine, but I can't find anything at all. The SP262 game CHIP don't seem to exist.
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I am hoping that replacing the LM388 ic will solve your problem but like a lot of things in electronics you won't know until it is done. Hopefully the cost for it was not too much, and if it does not fix your sound problem maybe you can save the removed LM388 for another repair in the future.
By injecting an audio tone of medium level directly on the LM388 output pin it should drive the speaker to make a sound, proving that all is ok downstream from the audio amp. Then a smaller level audio tone injected on the LM388 input pin and then on the volume control wiper will prove if the audio amp and its input circuitry is working. Without a schematic it is guess work somewhat. The design of the sound circuit may have the sound signal moving thru the volume control to the audio amp input. Check the volume control to make sure it is not broken. Sometimes a previous person has mistreated the control, the wiper could be bent or broken, or the volume control itself could have a broken mounting leg which opens the circuit.
Also, it appears from your picture of the main board that the sound board is a small daughter board or piggy-back board that is connected to the main board. Is that right? If so I would double-check the connector where this small sound board plugs into the main board. And the small board may have a part number written on it that you can do google search, maybe find schematic drawing.
Thank you for information on your ESR meter, I will look into it. I think it could be helpful during troubleshooting on older equip where capacitors often begin to go bad and it is a chore to replace all of them on a board.
Likely your machine is an export model that is unfamiliar to the good folks here. There are probably none here is USA or even North America. Perhaps you will run across another one in your part of the world and will be able to duplicate the SP262 chip you are looking for. It is unlikely you have the only one in Norway or northern Europe area. Even another non-working one may have the SP262 chip you seek.
Also, sometimes another SP chip is similar enough to allow the machine to work, even if payoff operation is not exactly correct. Someone experienced in IGT software maybe can advise another chip to try. If your machine and reel strips are similar to a USA model you could try the SP chip used in it, at least it is something to try while searching for the exact SP262. Have you contacted IGT tech support to ask about SP262 and your machine by model number, maybe they can give some info about it or suggest a point of contact in Europe?
Good Luck!
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Hi again. I come with good news! I found the mistake, and you where right. I did some measuring and testing. I injected a small audiosignal into LM388 input on pin 7 and 8. This worked and gave sound on speaker. I found the wiring diagram for the soundboard and found out that the volum control, potmeter, was broken. When measured it was 40k ohm. When bypassing the potmeter / volume controller, the sound worked perfectly! Thank you so much for your help!
You misunderstood me about the chip. It's working, I don't need a new one. I was only searching to find info. I did send an email to IGT. They answered me that they could not give info to a private person.
Once again, thank you so much for your help :)
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So good to hear that you have the sound working now! I think that LM388 is capable of about 1.5 to 2 watts of audio power, which can be fairly loud when sitting near the speaker & playing the machine.
If you are bypassing the broken volume control with a jumper wire that method will work ok but the sound level may be louder than you prefer. If you are not able to find a replacement 10k volume control one idea is this: instead of bypassing the volume control with a wire you can use a 4.7k resistor (that is about mid value for the volume control) and this will make the sound level lower. You can try a larger or a smaller resistor, within the range of about 1k to 10k, to find an audio level you like. Of course, the sound will be at a fixed level. But really most people adjust the sound level once and it is not adjusted after that, so you can probably get a good level that is ok for your usage with the proper selection of the resistor that bypasses the volume control.
I did misunderstand about the SP262 chip, I thought you were needing to locate one since yours was defective or missing. Sorry to hear that IGT would not provide the information you requested, big corporations are sometimes like that. Maybe the people here on NLG website that are familiar with IGT software can give you information on this chip or where to find it. What kind of information are you wanting to know?
PS> thanks for posting the schematic drawing for the sound circuit in your machine, it could help someone else with a problem in that area.
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You might try taking that volume control apart and cleaning it to. Use a qtip and some electronics cleaner but don't scrub very hard. Basically just wipe the pads inside off a couple times. It may fix it, it may not, but it's worked well for me on many potentiometers before.
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For what it's worth, I found your SS chip number documented in a different thread -- it has an awful 85.49% payback.
SS6178 4R 3CM TYPE 0 139E585 85.49
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Bypassing the broken volume control was just to test that it was the mistake. I have soldered on a new 10k potmeter, working perfectly as volume control. Yes it was so loud and scared me when the loud sound came. I also took apart the slot handle, sand blasted it, and repainted it. Came out pretty nice.
There was some sort of interface box mounted in the machine. It was connected to most of the coin optics and coin acceptor wires, and some from the main board. I took it out of the machine, since it's not going to comunicate with anything. I'm posting some pictures, maybe someone know what it is. If somebody has interest in the box, I am willing to give it away.
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Your volume control & handle repairs came out very well, nice job!
Usually when you find an extra comm card in a machine it is one of these:
1) a network device to connect the game to the casino main computer for keeping track of player actions so the player can be rewarded on their casino account with points. This also involves having a panel mounted to the machine where a players card with a magnetic strip is inserted to identify the player.
2) a circuit board that controls the progressive jackpot on the machine. Your machine upper glass appears to have a progressive jackpot digital display, was this card connected to it?
I don't recognize the card so can't say for sure, but I'm not much of an expert in this area, maybe others here will know something about it. It's possible that the gaming laws in your country require the machines to keep track of all play. Often the government gets a portion of the money the machine collects in a casino so they may require strict accounting to be done electronically. This board may be what reports all that info back to the casino main computer for government compliance.
Does your progressive display gradually increase or change in any way as you play the machine? Also, just as a curiosity, are there casinos near your location that the machine may have been in service?
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Thank you so much! The controller device was connected to the progressive bord. It was probably to control the progressive jackpot. The DIP-switches was in position (ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON-ON-ON-ON), from 1-8 when I got the machine. The progressive display didn't work before I changed to singel progressive on DIP switches. The progressive board is programmable from the self test meny, here you can change max amount, reset amount, amount now, and prosent increment. I have it so it increases as you play.
I bought the machine in Denmark on vacation, like a souvenir. I have no idèa where it has been in service. Last owner didn't know either
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It is a nice souvenir! I usually end up with a small snow globe from vacation!!
That's good that you were able to set the progressive jackpot to increase as your machine is played individually. Is the menu written in Danish or English? (wondering if it was a problem to read) Also, does it accept your local coins and paper currency?
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does it accept your local coins and paper currency?
There's no bill acceptor. :no:
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does it accept your local coins and paper currency?
There's no bill acceptor. :no:
Dang - I missed that! Saw the coin head and comparitor but didn't notice what wasn't there. Where would the BV be mounted, to the right of the reel glass where it says "Play 3 Coins"?
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That machine was manufactured before embedded bill validators were standard on the machine. It would in theory be possible to add a side-mounted bill validator box to it, but it would be more trouble than it's worth.
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All menues and labels are in english. Though I do understand Danish, since it's close to Norwegian. It accepts local coins, but there's no bill acceptor in the machine, which I think is quite nice, since it is how I remember them from the ferry from Norway to Denmark. I have orderd new lock cylinders, jackpot reset key, and a free play board. It's hard to find a new button though, the cash out button is broken. It's the old type of button and it's hard to find. Does anyone have a spare one or know where to get one?