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Author Topic: 1983 Double Up Cal Omega machine  (Read 9081 times)

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Offline arcade_jim

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Re: 1983 Double Up Cal Omega machine
« Reply #40 on: August 16, 2015, 03:52:51 PM »
   4 voltages have to be present for the game to work, regulated 5 volts, regulated 12 volts (for 905 board measure at ground and left side R74), unregulated 12 volts (measure across C3), and 15VAC (measure across MOV CR25).  Confirm that R56 is full clockwise.  If all 5 things are good your board is bad.  Coinslots manuals are fine but probably don't have what you are looking for like schematics, wiring, or parts info


Alrighty... I tried to take some readings while the machine was running to see what the voltages were.  Please double check to make sure I did it right, but R74 may be faulty.  I used the center contact on the power cable as the ground for testing R74 and indicated the placement of the leads for testing the other components in the attached pictures.  C3 and CR25 read 12V and 15VAC as indicated, but R74 registered nothing.  R56 was not fully rotated clockwise.  It had some orange residue (glue maybe) that had it locked in position.  It broke free pretty easily when I tried to rotate it, but I moved it back to where it was originally.


If I need to replace R74, what value resister do I need to use?  On my board, the outer layer of the resister has cracked and broken off, so I can't read it to find out what it's supposed to be.

Offline dormi

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Re: 1983 Double Up Cal Omega machine
« Reply #41 on: August 16, 2015, 10:12:05 PM »
Sorry by ground I meant DC ground (neg side of the battery or neg side of C3).  R74 might look bad but is probably OK, value is 100 ohms left side should be +12 volts other end about +8 volts.  You can measure +5 volts DC across any bypass capacitor (.1 mfd ) they are all ouer the board.

Offline arcade_jim

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Re: 1983 Double Up Cal Omega machine
« Reply #42 on: August 17, 2015, 05:34:30 AM »
Sorry by ground I meant DC ground (neg side of the battery or neg side of C3).  R74 might look bad but is probably OK, value is 100 ohms left side should be +12 volts other end about +8 volts.  You can measure +5 volts DC across any bypass capacitor (.1 mfd ) they are all ouer the board.

Gotcha. I'll get the board back in the machine and hopefully get some readings later this morning.

Also, I just realized that the big purple component was a battery.  Should I read more than .012VDC on it while the board is out of the cabinet?

Offline rokgpsman

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Re: 1983 Double Up Cal Omega machine
« Reply #43 on: August 17, 2015, 06:37:44 AM »
Gotcha. I'll get the board back in the machine and hopefully get some readings later this morning.

Also, I just realized that the big purple component was a battery.  Should I read more than .012VDC on it while the board is out of the cabinet?

Yes, the battery should measure about 2.5-3 volts or more. I think it is a 3.6 volt battery when new (should be written on the side of the battery). The battery keeps power to the cmos ram chip data (machine settings and essential financial info important to casino) when the machine power is off. Since the battery only has to power the 1 cmos chip it lasts a long time.

The original battery is called a 1/2  AA size. Some owners unsolder the dead battery and solder the wires to a remote battery pack in its place to make battery changes easier. Doing this also eliminates the worry of ever having the battery leak onto the board and cause damage. However a new battery like the original one should last many years. So it's a matter of choice.

The original style battery is not hard to find but they are sometimes costly. Coincidentally there are phone battery packs that are also 3.6 volts, they are readily available and low cost and I've heard folks here say they use them. When using a remote 4 battery pack like the black one shown below you'd install a diode in place of the 4th battery. A conducting diode consumes about .7 volts. That way you'd have 3 batteries giving 4.5 volts, then the diode would reduce that by .7 volts, leaving about 3.8 volts connected to the mpu. You can also solder a 1/2 AA battery holder to the mpu and then easily replace the 1/2 AA battery when needed. That's the way Williams did it on some of their machines. Several different companies make the 3.6 volt 1/2 AA battery, and they come in different styles, such as with solder leads, or with wires attached, or just in the standard way.
« Last Edit: August 17, 2015, 07:25:53 AM by rokgpsman »
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Offline arcade_jim

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Re: 1983 Double Up Cal Omega machine
« Reply #44 on: August 17, 2015, 08:02:49 PM »
I measured R74 again, this time from the side of the resistor toward the inside of the board (same as before) and the negative pole of the battery.  It read 5.6V DC.  It measured 12 V DC on the other side of R74.

Offline arcade_jim

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Re: 1983 Double Up Cal Omega machine
« Reply #45 on: August 17, 2015, 08:37:44 PM »
I tried fiddling with some of the pots on the game board, but they didn't seem to have an effect on the display. They are labeled R, G, B, and V. I'd guess red, green, blue and vertical hold.

I managed to get a better picture of the monitor while powered on (attached). I'm starting to wonder if it's showing the inverse of what it's supposed to be?

How critical is that battery? At the moment, I don't think I care about lost settings, but if it's hampering something else I'll see about replacing it.

Offline dormi

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Re: 1983 Double Up Cal Omega machine
« Reply #46 on: August 17, 2015, 09:58:34 PM »
    Yes your battery is bad, but at this point it doesn't matter because a bad battery will NOT keep a 905 game board from working.   What we are trying to determine is why is your game is dead.  By checking on the game board the 4 voltages needed for the game board to operate you have eliminated everything in your cabinet that can keep your game  from operating.  Wiring, connectors, fuses, power supplies and everything else is good in the cabinet if you can verify the 4 voltages needed are present.

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Re: 1983 Double Up Cal Omega machine
« Reply #47 on: August 18, 2015, 06:56:38 AM »
    Yes your battery is bad, but at this point it doesn't matter because a bad battery will NOT keep a 905 game board from working.   What we are trying to determine is why is your game is dead.  By checking on the game board the 4 voltages needed for the game board to operate you have eliminated everything in your cabinet that can keep your game  from operating.  Wiring, connectors, fuses, power supplies and everything else is good in the cabinet if you can verify the 4 voltages needed are present.


Awesome.  Good to know that we've eliminated a good chunk of possibilities.
« Last Edit: August 18, 2015, 03:47:23 PM by arcade_jim »

Offline arcade_jim

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Re: 1983 Double Up Cal Omega machine
« Reply #48 on: August 19, 2015, 08:11:21 PM »
Capacitors have been mentioned before as a likely culprit. Is that the next logical step?  The three 103 caps near C23 look to be a little worse for wear.  If I can track down a few appropriate replacements, I could try to swap them out.
« Last Edit: August 19, 2015, 08:29:04 PM by arcade_jim »

Offline Amechanic

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Re: 1983 Double Up Cal Omega machine
« Reply #49 on: August 19, 2015, 09:44:43 PM »
Have you tried to re-seat any of your game chips that are in removable sockets? You could send the board into K-Lar in Vegas to be checked and repaired. You want to talk to Larry Weber, that phone number is 702-363-9998.. I wouldn't just start changing capacitors. The round can type tend to dry out over time, not your flat ceramic types.
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Offline arcade_jim

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Re: 1983 Double Up Cal Omega machine
« Reply #50 on: August 20, 2015, 07:48:55 PM »
Have you tried to re-seat any of your game chips that are in removable sockets? You could send the board into K-Lar in Vegas to be checked and repaired. You want to talk to Larry Weber, that phone number is 702-363-9998.. I wouldn't just start changing capacitors. The round can type tend to dry out over time, not your flat ceramic types.

I hadn't, but I just did.  I reseated all of the chips I could, except for the four longer ones.  The tool I have couldn't get a hold of them.  I put the board back in the cabinet, but no change.

Offline shortrackskater

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Re: 1983 Double Up Cal Omega machine
« Reply #51 on: August 25, 2015, 08:11:05 PM »
Just a small standard screwdriver will work. Make sure you don't hit anything near the chip, like a capacitor!
Just gently put it under the chip (NOT the socket) and sort of "work" it up a little... then do the other side... and then press the chip back in.
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Re: 1983 Double Up Cal Omega machine
« Reply #52 on: November 12, 2015, 10:31:53 AM »
arcade_jim - was this problem ever resolved? Let us know...
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Re: 1983 Double Up Cal Omega machine
« Reply #53 on: November 24, 2015, 01:53:42 PM »
arcade_jim - was this problem ever resolved? Let us know...


Inquiring minds want to know  :nerd:


I have nearly the identical problem with my system and have performed extensive troubleshooting (with a lot of help) to no avail so far. Still have more to troubleshoot, still have not given up.
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