Game King Keno

[mateo107]

Thanks so much for the help thus far, Tilt.


Received the touch screen controller.  Tried the one you sent and I've got the same result, sadly.


At this point, I'm thinking perhaps that that actual touch screen/monitor itself may be bad.  I'm going to try to dismount it from the game and check the wiring/solder points to see if anything is broken.  I'm also going to see about cleaning the screen, again.

That said, I'm still not 100% convinced it's the monitor.  The game seems to "lock up" during certain points so I'm thinking it could be another issue too.  Just not sure where to go from here. 


By locking up, I mean, for example - as I mentioned earlier.  I could be in the touch-screen calibration screen where I've turned the reset key twice and now it's trying to set the ambient... and it just hangs there... never moves past that point. 


The wiring diagram is very helpful, so, I can likely try to 'hack in' one of the other touch-screen monitors I have.


<sigh>
What I thought was going to be a steal of a machine, looks like it might be a pit.

[Tilt]

Sorry it didn't fix it, but at least you were able to eliminate something.  The touchscreen itself may be bad, but usually they only go bad with visible evidence of damage (scratches/cracks).  It's also possible that the MPU is the cause.  In your case I don't your MPU is actually locking up, but sitting there awaiting input from the touchscreen/controller.  The QUARTs on MPU board provide the interface between the CPU and the Netplex bus devices.  If one is bad then the CPU would not be able to communicate with them. 

If your inspection doesn't reveal anything obvious with the touchscreen/wiring you may want to try a different MPU board next.

[Amechanic]

What size is your monitor? I have a couple monitors here that are 17". I think they have good touch screens. I had to replace the touch screen on a 17" CRT a couple month bad because is was dead. I like to use a razor knife to remove the touch screen. Cut against the monitor where the mounting tape is. Usually in the 2 pieces per side, about 2-3" in from the corners. I have heard of someone using dental floss to cut the mounting. Its easy to crack the touch screen if you force it.

[mateo107]

Thanks again Tilt, I'll keep you posted.

Amechanic.  The LCD screen itself seems to be perfect, it's the touch portion thats failing, I think.


That said, this is clearly a hack-in job by someone who wasn't totally familiar with what they were doing.


I just traced every single wire/pin out of the backplane to see where it was on their seemingly home-made centronics cable and it's all over the place.  During the investigation, I did notice that one wire is actually disconnected, but not sure which one at the moment (not in front of my notepad).


I have another monitor, with a touchscreen on it, so I'm going to try to wire that one in.  I just figured out which pins were RGB, HSync and VSync off the cable , and which pins are what for the touchscreen J100 interface, so now it's just a matter of rigging it up to see if it too fails.  If so, I'll move onto the MPU as Tilt has suggested.


I also just noticed that the top two fuses are missing from the PSU distribution unit box.  I only have one fuse in the bottom.  Is that normal?  Of course, the caps to hold the fuses in are gone too, so I'll need to find those.  I believe the two that are missing are a .125 (top most) and a 2A (middle).

[Amechanic]

Ok my mistake. I didn't realize this was an LCD monitor.

[mateo107]

OK, latest questions.


I've toned out each pin in the homemade centronics (extension) cable.  I've found RGB, HSync, VSync and a few grounds, plus the netplex connector rx and tx as well as 13V power.


So, i broke the RGB HSync and VSync to a standard SVGA cable/pinout, along with grounds at pin 5 and 10 for Hync Ground and VSync Ground... however, when I power it up, now, the monitor does get power, but shows "no signal input".  Any thoughts?  Am I missing other required PINs for just a standard VGA monitor to test?


Also, [size=0px]I also just noticed that the top two fuses are missing from the PSU distribution unit box.  I only have one fuse in the bottom.  Is that normal?  Of course, the caps to hold the fuses in are gone too, so I'll need to find those.  I believe the two that are missing are a .125 (top most) and a 2A (middle).[/size][/size]

[Tilt]

All you should need is the RGB signals, the Horz and Vertical Sync signals, and signal grounds.  Does your monitor have more than one input?  Some monitors will scan and auto select the active input, others you have to select it usually with a button or menu setting. 

The 1/8A fuse is for the comm distribution board, not needed for home use.

The 2A fuse provided power to the CRT display through the beau plug on the monitor shelf.

[mateo107]

Awesome, thanks Titl!  So that means I've got the wiring correct.  Could be a bad monitor, definitely.  And thanks for the fuse answers to!  Saving me from running down more things to test.

[mateo107]

So I've almost got this machine working!!!


I had to back-trace every single friggin' wire in the thing, but I'm very close.  I have all the pins marked/labeled now and I have a secondary touch-screen monitor hooked up to test.


However, I have one cable/PIN from the 3M touchscreen control that doesnt have a place.  It's a brown wire and the manual for the controller says this:
8 Brown Cable shield/drain wire Connects to the flex tail shield, which must not be grounded because the controller drives the flex tail shield with an AC waveform.


Anyone have any ideas what that means or where I can connect it?


Here's the full link to the manual if anyone needs it.  It's on page 11: http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/367149O/ex-ii-serial-controllers-reference-guide-1710-1720-1750-7720.pdf

[/size][size=78%] [/size]

[Tilt]

Glad to hear you've made some progress. 

Here's a few pictures of one of my LCD monitors (Kortek).  It has the newer style touchscreen controller so I'm not sure how much help it will be.  It has a female DB-9 connector on the board, but as you can see it's not used, the flex cable goes into a beige cable that attaches to a line connector pins on the board next to the DB-9.

If you need any more pictures let me know.  Hope you're able to get it working!