Bally E-2333-3 problems

[rjpohl]

When it's turned on the Tilt light is on.  I can press hopper reset buttons and the tilt goes off.  As soon as door switch is made the 3 reel solenoids kick in and off, the coin diverter pulls in for a split second and the tilt comes back on.  The door code at this time is 8.0.3.0.0.1.


Ant suggestions as to where to start?
thanks
Bob

[Badbaud]

Remove the reel mech and do your test again.
If the tilt still happens it could be the power supply is weak.

[rjpohl]

Remove the reel mech and do your test again.
If the tilt still happens it could be the power supply is weak.

I did remove reel mech and the tilt still happened as soon as door switch closed.  I will test power supply in the next few days, thanks

[rjpohl]

I replaced power supply with a new one from Fox Slots, it still goes to tilt as soon as door hinge is closed.


There is a micro switch on door by lock, if I hold it closed and press hinge switch the tilt does not happen.  As soon as I release micro switch the tilt does happen.


Found spring broken on solenoid for handle and the solenoid was in pulled in (so handle could release).  I manually opened the solenoid (handle will not release).  Tilt still happens as soon as door closes.


thanks
Bob

[Amechanic]

Ok Bob. I think I have this one. Have you checked you battery on the MPU board? You need a good battery with the progressive unit. Your machine has the dual progress unit on the top. The 8 is showing test 8 and the 3001 is part of the progressive programming sequence. Were you planning on using the progressive unit? Is you remove the top glass, you should see 2 small red push buttons used to get you into, and to program the progressive unit. Test those two button with a meter to make sure they are good. I know I have the sequence written down on how to program the progressive. But first thing to do is to check your MPU battery. I had a similar problem a couple years ago, and I thought I had a bad MPU chip. It wasn’t my problem, it was the battery.

[Amechanic]

I have it as an attachment on my phone, I’m going to try to post it here.

[rjpohl]

Thanks Gary, I didn't even check the battery (I thought they weren't needed on E2000).  I'll check it tomorrow.  Where's good place to get these batteries?
Bob

[Badbaud]

If not done you can remove the old NiCad battery, then remove the 100 Ohm charging resistor near it and solder in a iN5817 diode where the diode symbol is and then solder in a 3.6V Li Ion battery.
The new battery won't leak. Next, if there was corrosion, remove the two RAM chips and check their legs, if not shiny suspect bad RAM chips or bad sockets that need to be replaced.

[rjpohl]

I have it as an attachment on my phone, I’m going to try to post it here.

Thanks Gary, you were dead on, replaced the battery and followed the progressive set up instructions and it's working great.
thanks again
Bob

[Amechanic]

Glad to help Bob. I had that same issue a few years back. I thought I had a bad personality chip. After changing the chip, I still had the same problem. Someone mentioned to me, that it looked like it was in the progressive setup. Thats when I learned that you needed the MPU battery on these. I’m glad to hear it’s up and running.