Project machine. New here.

[Talarspeed]

      Update on this project:
 
I was able to remove the chassis without any problems. The metal frame seems to have been spared from rust that was covered by the chassis. This is also apparent where the hopper sat.
 
https://imgur.com/k7XsFi8
 
 
Although it worked (sort of), I’m not the happiest with the condition of the chassis, especially the power. The motherboard doesn’t look the best but it could be cleaned. I’m also having a sound issue which I will post separately. (I believe that someone cranked the volume wheel on the MPU board past its limitation).  My plan is to scrub the internal frame where the rust lies, remove it and treat the area.
 
I’m going to take the advice of some folks here and post a WTB for the chassis and/or components. Basically I’m going to sink more money in this project than it is worth. But I’m having a blast so far . . . and I’m learning a lot.  Thank you to everyone who has helped so far!
 
Other pictures:
 
https://imgur.com/zpcNmbz
 
https://imgur.com/EEDxGde
 
https://imgur.com/A3CGojx
 
https://imgur.com/Y14oLz9
 

[rokgpsman]

I am reposting your photos below just to make it a little easier for everyone to see them. But to do that I needed to reduce their filesize, so if anyone wants to see more detail just click on the link in the OP's post above:

[Talarspeed]

Below is a picture of the result of 1 treatment of scraping and naval jelly to the inside of the frame. I'm going to go one more round and then spray it with a sealant.


Also I did a test patch on the chrome frame using an old technique of aluminum foil and water.

[rokgpsman]

That is definitely an improvement. 

Did you get your WTB request posted to find another lower cabinet (like the one listed at WWG)?

[Talarspeed]

Did you get your WTB request posted to find another lower cabinet (like the one listed at WWG)?

Haven't posted it yet because I'm still deciding on some things . . .  I was going to pull and clean the motherboard and see what it looks like underneath.
The lack of sound seems like a disconnected speaker wire, but I still believe there might be an issue with the volume pot at the MPU board. Once I reassemble this, I'm going to check for sound. I have the feeling I will be replacing the MPU board.
There is also the ugly hopper. It did work, but I got a couple of 3200 errors.  My plan here is to disassemble, clean, scrub/scrape and put back together.


My emphasis has shifted to making it cosmetically look better since I believe I can get it working well.


I'm also going to build a stand based on a previous one that I finished last week. (Ron (RB) helped me with getting an S2000 while I rebuild this project).

[rokgpsman]

That's probably a good idea to look over all the main parts before ordering. If you were to need additional parts then maybe you could get them all from one seller. Jim at Midwest Slots often has chassis parts like this and he does a lot of work with S+ machines. His sponsor banner is on the NLG home page, you can contact him to see if he has what you need:

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/

And there are probably other folks here that may have parts you need.

On the mpu board, if it otherwise works well and you can solder you can replace that broken sound pot.

On the hopper, error 3200 refers to a coin jam, so it may have a bent "knife" or other coin handing part. Visual inspection will usually show the problem. You can post photos of the hopper for us to see and make suggestions when you get around to the hopper.

[Amechanic]

You might want to clean and service the hopper. The coin optics could be dirty giving you your 3200 error.

As for the surface rust, don’t be afraid to use a flat blade scraper on it or some 80 grit sand paper. I usually just scrap anything loose off. I have a silver/ aluminum color paint that looks good inside these cabinets. See the inside of a S+ Haywire I’m working on. It had rust across the front coin tray lip into the cabinet bottom. I cleaned it with CLR, then scrapped the loose rust and reapplied the CLR. Rinsed with water. Once dry I sanded the areas where the rust was. I then sprayed with the aluminum color spray paint.

[rokgpsman]

That does look good and would save him the cost of replacing the lower cabinet insert. He could still buy replacement wiring harnesses if needed and change them out.

[Amechanic]

These are the paints I use. The white works great for making the plastics look new again, and the other is what I use on the cabinets and other inside parts look like new. This could be used even on the rusty hopper.

[rokgpsman]

......The lack of sound seems like a disconnected speaker wire, but I still believe there might be an issue with the volume pot at the MPU board. Once I reassemble this, I'm going to check for sound. I have the feeling I will be replacing the MPU board.

Here is what a 10mhz mpu board looks like, this is an mpu that belongs to another NLG member. You can see the round blue volume pot at the top edge of the photo. It will have 3 solder legs attaching it to the board. Your mpu board may look slightly different, they made a few different versions of the 10mhz board, but all are equivalent.

There are folks here that sell tested & working mpu boards if you decide you need to get another one.

[Talarspeed]

You might want to clean and service the hopper. The coin optics could be dirty giving you your 3200 error.

As for the surface rust, don’t be afraid to use a flat blade scraper on it or some 80 grit sand paper. I usually just scrap anything loose off. I have a silver/ aluminum color paint that looks good inside these cabinets. See the inside of a S+ Haywire I’m working on. It had rust across the front coin tray lip into the cabinet bottom. I cleaned it with CLR, then scrapped the loose rust and reapplied the CLR. Rinsed with water. Once dry I sanded the areas where the rust was. I then sprayed with the aluminum color spray paint.

Thank you for the paint suggestions!  That looks really nice and kind of what I'm aiming for. I have used a wire brush, sandpaper and different scouring pads to remove the surface rust; all followed by naval jelly. The plan is to paint/coat the interior- primarily the bottom of the frame. I'm going to scrub down the interior walls to see if those stains come off; starting with Simply Green.

[Talarspeed]

      Giving an update on the project so far . . .
 
I pulled the all of the components off the chassis in order to see the power supply and mother board.  The wiring was sketchy . . . maybe it was just cosmetically ugly. I was on the fence with some issues.  I knew that I was going to replace the MPU board because the volume pot didn’t turn easily and I was having a sound issue.  I really didn’t like the looks of the power supply and some of the wiring (even though I had run the machine).
 
I truly appreciate the advice of the experts on this board. Several of you contacted me via PM with suggestions. One frequent suggestion was to stay away from World Wide Gaming. There is nothing like experience of those who know when you’re new to learning something. But I went with them for the chassis replacement, and here is the reason why:  I knew I was replacing the MPU board and was going to be down for some cost with the item and shipping.  The possibility of running into other issues seemed high with the current board(s) and power supply.  This is an early S+ machine and I haven’t seen this exact setup that often. WWG had the exact replacement of board(s), power, chassis and full wiring harness.
 
Regardless, the replacement came in and I installed without a hitch . . . or so it seems. I’m still having a sound issue which is on a separate thread.
 
I’m also seeing that it is not paying out correctly which seems to be tied to the 3^rd reel.  This is a Triple Diamond with an ABC reel combo. All 3 reels are different as should be, so I am questioning the installation of the strip(s).  I started to peel the strip on the 3^rd reel to look for an IGT number, but it is very brittle and I could tell that I would damage it if I continued to peel it.  I backed off for now on that aspect. I am considering posting a WTB ad for replacement of ABC version, or an AAB with new chip combo.
 
This machine doesn’t take bills. No validator installed. It is currently $0.25 denomination. I am considering converting it to a nickel machine.  Would the current quarter hopper work? I don’t know much about coin comparators- would the current one work or are they denomination specific? I will be taking the current hopper apart and cleaning it.
 
Thank you again for all of your support!
 

[rokgpsman]

The parts you ordered from WWG will most likely be good and work fine, I think the only issue people have with them is the higher cost they seem to have on everything.

Do you mean the machine payout from the hopper is wrong amount, or that the amount won (displayed on the Win Meter) does not match what the strips and award glass say?

There are some built-in tests on your machine, accessed with the white TEST button. One of the tests will step the reels & strips thru each possible setting, from 1 to whatever. You could try running it and check it against the payout glass. On a used machine sometimes the strips or glass or SS chip don't exactly match, someone may have installed the wrong one. There are some variations in many of the games that IGT made, such as strips that are slightly different. So it might be good to check them.

The strip part number is written on one end of the strip, topside but underneath where the two ends of the strip overlap. It is sometimes a problem trying to remove the strip ends and not cause damage. Instead of doing that you can ask someone to post a photo of the correct 3 strips for your game and compare their photo to your strips to see if they are the same.

The document for your mpu board SP709 chip tells you how to do the strip test. And the IGT diagnostic cards (link below) have the strip test (see pg 2) you can run.

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18866.msg99570#msg99570


I think you said in another thread that you have SP709 and SS4780, and this is what your machine glass looks like:

http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%202CM/Game%20Library%20-%20S-Plus%20-%20Triple%20Diamond%20(2%20Coin%20Multiplier).htm

So, unless you want to change the award (upper) glass you will need to stay with either "ABC" strips or "AAA" strips, with the appropriate SS chip, as shown in the chart at link above for your current setup. "AAB" isn't listed for that award glass you have.

You can convert the machine to nickels, will need to replace some parts on the hopper, along with the denom sticker on the center of the reel glass, it just tapes on. The coin comparitor should be ok, just remove the quarter and install a nickel. The chrome quarter coin entry head will let a nickel thru, you may not need to change it.

Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong on any of this.   

[rokgpsman]

On the payout problem, any chance someone got the reels & strip installed in wrong order from left to right? The reel assemblies just pull out, may have gotten reinstalled in the wrong order.

[Amechanic]

If your third reels off, it’s possible the strip has turned on the reel basket. The hopper to change it to a nickel from a quarter, your going to need a nickel hopper coin wheel and shelf wheel. Then you are going to need a nickel coin guide for the coin in optics and a nickel coin head.

[knagl]

If you can post the "SS" (REEL) chip number in your machine, I can send you the PAR sheet for it which lists the reel strips on it, specifically what order the symbols on the strips should be in, and what order the reel strips belong in.

[Amechanic]

 

[rokgpsman]

If you can post the "SS" (REEL) chip number in your machine, I can send you the PAR sheet for it which lists the reel strips on it, specifically what order the symbols on the strips should be in, and what order the reel strips belong in.

Good idea! In a different discussion thread he said it was SS4780:

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=20845.msg110194#msg110194

[Talarspeed]

If you can post the "SS" (REEL) chip number in your machine, I can send you the PAR sheet for it which lists the reel strips on it, specifically what order the symbols on the strips should be in, and what order the reel strips belong in.

The chips are SP709 and SS4780.  RB is sending me new strips (and a different chip) for this machine. They're very brittle and the silver spangled aspect of the reels are peeling in certain spots.


Thank you!

[knagl]

I can't find a PAR for SS4780 (anyone else have one?).  This is the reel strip listing for the SS7752 chip, which is similar to yours and may use the same strips.

This reads from left reel to right reel.  Symbols are:

~~ - blank
1B, 2B, 3B - single, double, and triple bar
7 - Red 7
TD - Triple Diamond

Line #   1 ~~ ~~ ~~     
Line #   2 1B 2B 1B     
Line #   3 ~~ ~~ ~~     
Line #   4 TD TD TD     
Line #   5 ~~ ~~ ~~     
Line #   6 2B 3B 2B     
Line #   7 ~~ ~~ ~~     
Line #   8  7 2B  7     
Line #   9 ~~ ~~ ~~     
Line #  10 1B 3B 1B     
Line #  11 ~~ ~~ ~~     
Line #  12 3B  7 3B     
Line #  13 ~~ ~~ ~~     
Line #  14 2B 1B 1B     
Line #  15 ~~ ~~ ~~     
Line #  16 TD TD 2B     
Line #  17 ~~ ~~ ~~     
Line #  18 1B 2B 1B     
Line #  19 ~~ ~~ ~~     
Line #  20  7 1B  7     
Line #  21 ~~ ~~ ~~     
Line #  22 3B 3B 3B