IGT S2000 - I would like to make some "upgrades" - tito, quarters & tokens

[nglayton]

I would like to publicly thank @Jim for reaching out and getting me the parts I need to make these upgrades.


He sent me and X-10 Xeptor that I was able to get working after a little trial and error.  The first 500 quarters and 500 tokens it only rejected one. It accepted that one reject on the 2nd try. That's good enough for anyone.


The X-10 does have one quirk.......it won't work if I slide the cover back on it. If I pull the cover off it works fine, so I just left it off. The holes don't line up right for the LED, button or pot anyway so I just left it off.


I will admit as another member mentioned above, this machine does seem to be a sort of Frankenstein'ish.  The more I tinker on it the more I see that just isn't quite lined up.


Jim also sent me a printer, paper, cables, power board and a better looking/fitting front bezel. With some shuffling of pieces I got it all installed. It's looking much better now.


I'll attach a few more pics.
Maybe someone can give me a little more guidance on where to plug in those 3 plugs from the printer? 

[nglayton]

More pics......?

[Jim]

the printer has two plugs, only one is used, one of the cables I sent will plug into the printer cable the other end of it will plug into any plug labeled NETPLEX  on the power distribution board.

another cable I sent will plug into any NETPLEX plug (they are all in parallel) on the power distribution board and the other end of it will plug into the plug panel in the left rear of the topbox.

don't have a machine that I can take a picture to show this, ( my test machine will scare you because I have so many other plugs running everywhere to test other items)

Jim

[nglayton]

the printer has two plugs, only one is used, one of the cables I sent will plug into the printer cable the other end of it will plug into any plug labeled NETPLEX  on the power distribution board.

another cable I sent will plug into any NETPLEX plug (they are all in parallel) on the power distribution board and the other end of it will plug into the plug panel in the left rear of the topbox.

don't have a machine that I can take a picture to show this, ( my test machine will scare you because I have so many other plugs running everywhere to test other items)

Jim

Ok, I think I got it.
If I understand, Only one connector on the printer is used. It plugs to the distribution board you sent using one of the cables you sent.  The other cable you sent plugs into the same distribution board and goes to the square 9pin plug in the back left corner of the top box.


Only one problem.  There is a plug in that 9pin square spot already with 2 wires in it. Those two wires, black and red seem to power the speakers/audio. Because when I pull it out and hook up the printer, The printer powers up, but I then have no sound.....


See the pic


I supposed I could then just tap those 2 wires off the distribution board some place else to re-establish power to the audio?
I assume it's power because they are black and red...but I could be wrong. I'll get out the meter.
Thats what the distribution board is designed for isn't?

[Jim]

here is a picture from my machine.

red wires are +13vdc,  typically a black wire with a red tracer is its ground, as well as an orange wire is +25vdc  and its ground is black with an orange tracer. you can see the power cable coming from the right and it puts the two voltages to all the upper plugs for power distribution.

Jim

[nglayton]

Success!  I was able to get the machine to make a successful test print!

Now just waiting for the Bettor TITO unit to arrive and I should be all set!

Thanks again
 

[Stayouttadabunker]

Congrats!....now....what exactly did you do?

It may help others when they see this in the future.

[nglayton]

@Stayouttadabunker Here you go.

As requested, here is my step by step instructions for getting the printer installed, and working.
Sorry it took so long, but I wanted to do this right….get pics, make notes etc.


1) I bought a fairly cheap non-working machine. It had constant Reel 1 tilt errors, and this was after I had fixed battery issues and cleared the RAM errors.



2) Replaced MPU – which fixed the machine completely. No errors. Plays Great!!
3) Posted pics and asked for advice on NLG about upgrading
4) @Jim from Midwest Slots offered to sell me the parts I was requesting
5) I purchased the following parts for my top box from Jim:
            Printer with cable
            A couple of bundles of printer paper
            Power Distribution board
            Cable to attach power distribution board to lower box connector
            Cable to attach the printer cable to the distribution board
            Short player tracking panel to accommodate the new printer in the top box.
 
6) Installed all the parts in the correct locations. See pics below for before and after shots and consult this thread for additional info if needed.
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=316.0

Before


After



7) Attach wiring to correct locations. All the plugs are unique and only fit in the correct locations – you can’t hardly get it wrong. There is actually 2 ways to hook up the printer in the top box. One using the distribution board and the other more directly if it’s the only device in the top box. Both ways seem to work.
 
  Power on the slot machine and see if the printer powers up. If not review the wiring connections. Even if the printer isn’t enabled it should have power, feed paper etc.
 
9) Load the paper in the printer. Remember, if you can read “This side up” on the paper, you have the paper upside down. You should be looking at whatever casino legal mumbo jumbo is pre-printed on the backside. My current paper has ad copy for Total Rewards. It looks like out of date paper, which is probably why it ended up left over in my printer.   Just stick the end of the paper into the printer and it will suck it in and position it correctly for the first print.
 
10) Key chip your machine:  -  You have to do this or you won’t be able to see and/or change some of the settings.
Power off your machine, remove MPU and then remove the SB chip
Insert KEY chip in place of the SB chip, reinstall MPU
Power on the slot machine and wait for the top two amber lights to come on
Power off the slot, remove MPU, remove KEY chip, then reinstall SB chip
Power on the slot with door open, after booting up and passing all the self tests, the LED should read “7 KEY CHIP CONFIG”
 
If you aren’t sure about how to do this, I did find this video on youtube https://youtu.be/0gWutSYH7wg. It’s really pretty simple. This video shows you exactly the steps needed.
 
I also found this video on the keychip and clear procedures in case you need that or just want to see more. https://youtu.be/njpgikXHPnQ The only thing from this video I would caution you about is using a metal screwdriver to pry the chip loose is NOT good practice. You need to use antistatic tools because it doesn’t take much to zap one of these chips and then you are SOL until you find a replacement. The guy who made this video could use a few tips about working with electronics, but you’ll get the idea on how to perform the key chip procedure from watching. JUST BE CAREFUL. 
 
Also one more note, you DO NOT need to do a clear chip procedure to enable the printer,  just the KeyChip. The second ½ of that video with all the alarms and turning the key 4 times, then 3 times is all for the clear procedures.
 
9) Enable the printer, this can be found at:
7) Key Chip Configuration
7.1) Key Chip Config
7.2) Key Chip Config II
                        7.2.1) Validation
                        7.2.2) Printer
                                    7.2.2.1) Enable/Disable (Hit Spin and then toggle from disable to enable)

 
Then while I was at it I figured I might as well set my machine up for TITO so I didn’t have to key chip it a second time later.  I think the only issue with this is if I try to cash out, I get a printer not available error until the TITO unit is installed. If you don’t plan on installing a TITO unit I’m not sure why you are installing a printer but it’s up to you. I guess cashing out with tickets and not being able to read them back in, is a thing and some people like it. Proceed as you wish on this point. I probably should have waited until I had the TITO unit in hand to start this, but I was excited and couldn’t wait.
 
In my case I followed the detailed Bettor TITO instructions with the button presses all laid out for you.
They are a little confusing at first but after a bit you’ll get the hang of them. These could be written better, color coded, etc.  There is also a guide to do this in the FAQ section here <http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=319.0>
Begin:
[7 KEY CHIP CONFIG] {SPIN}[7.1 KEY CHIP CONFIG] {SPIN}
[7.1.1 DENOMINATION] {CASHOUT}{CASHOUT}[7.1.3 BONUS MENU] {SPIN}[7.1.3.4 GLOBAL SETUP] {CASHOUT}
[7.1.3.5 SYSTEM BONUS] {SPIN} {CASHOUT}
SYSTEM BONUS LEGACY {MAXBET} {MAXBET} {MAXBET}[7.1 KEY CHIP CONFIG] {CASHOUT}
[7.2 KEY CHIP CONFIG II] {SPIN}[7.2.1 VALIDATION] {SPIN}
[7.2.1.1 VALIDATION TYPE] {SPIN}
[SAS VALIDATION TYPE: STANDARD MODE] {CASHOUT}{CASHOUT} [SAS VALIDATION TYPE: SYSTEM MODE]
{MAXBET} {MAXBET} {CASHOUT}{CASHOUT}
[7.2.3 VOUCHER] {SPIN}{SPIN} {CASHOUT}
[VOUCHER = SAS] {MAXBET} {CASHOUT} {SPIN} {CASHOUT} [VOUCHER LIMIT FOLLOWS CREDIT LIMIT]
{MAXBET} {MAXBET} {MAXBET} {MAXBET} {MAXBET}

You have now exited the Key Chip menu. Close your main door and wait for the machine to reset. The bill validator insert light should turn on. At this point, open the main door and press the TEST button your main computer board to enter the menu and begin the next series of settings below:


[1 ACCOUNTING] {CASHOUT}{CASHOUT}
[3 OPTIONS] {SPIN}
[3.1 MACHINE OPTIONS] {CASHOUT} {CASHOUT} {CASHOUT}
[3.4 COMMUNICATION OPTIONS] {SPIN}
[3.4.1 SAS SETUP] {SPIN}
[3.4.1.1 SAS PRIMARY] {SPIN}
[3.4.1.1.1 SAS PRIMARY ADDRESS] {SPIN}
[001] (CONFIRM PARAMETER IS 001 OR CHANGE IF NECESSARY) {MAXBET} {MAXBET}{MAXBET} {CASHOUT}
[3.4.2 BALLY MISER SETUP] {SPIN}
[3.4.2.1 MISER PROTOCOL] {CASHOUT} [3.4.2.2 MISER CHANNEL] {SPIN} [BALLY MISER CHAN = 3] {CASHOUT} [BALLY MISER CHAN = OFF]{MAXBET} {MAXBET}
[3.4.2 BALLY MISER SETUP] {CASHOUT} [3.4.3 WAMM SETUP] {SPIN}
[3.4.3.1 WAMM ADDRESS] {CASHOUT} [3.4.3.2 WAMM CHANNEL] {SPIN}
[WAMM CHANNEL = 8] {CASHOUT}
[WAMM CHANNEL = OFF] {MAXBET} {MAXBET} {MAXBET}
 
[3.4 COMMUNICATION OPTIONS] {SPIN} {SPIN} {SPIN} {CASHOUT}
[3.4.1.1.2 SAS PRIMARY CHANNEL] {SPIN} {CASHOUT}
[SAS = 3] {MAXBET} {MAXBET}{CASHOUT} {CASHOUT}
 
[3.4.1.3 SAS CONFIG] {SPIN}
[CASHLESS = PRIMARY] (SERVICE/CHANGE BUTTON) (SERVICE/CHANGE BUTTON) [LEGACY BONUS = PRIMARY] (SERVICE/CHANGE BUTTON) (SERVICE/CHANGE BUTTON) (SERVICE/CHANGE BUTTON) [VALIDATION = PRIMARY]{MAXBET} {MAXBET}{MAXBET} {MAXBET} {MAXBET}

At this point the reels should spin. Close your main door.

You should be able to play your machine as normal now, however I wanted to test my printer so after playing a few spins I opened the door, pressed the white button on the MPU board and made my way to:
4) I/O Tests
     4.1) Input Tests
     4.2) Output Tests
     4.3) Auto-Configure Netplex Devices
     4.4) Sound Test
     4.5) 7-Seg Display Test
     4.6) Dot Matrix Display Test
     4.7) Hopper/Printer

I hit spin, selected printer test and you get 2 options.
Advance paper and Print Test

Advance paper does just that. Remember if your paper is in wrong this test will not function correctly, the printer will go into error, paper out mode. Don’t ask me how I know this

Print test should print out this as long as everything is connected correctly

[nglayton]

I figured out that my machine had backlit reels.  Both the strips and the hardware....but no lights. After watching a few youtube videos and studying a 1/2 dozen or so NLG threads I made the leap to try and get this working.

I had to purchase 3 things. The reel harness I had was the non backlit version, the backlight controller board was missing and I needed the cable to connect the i/o controller to the backlight controller board.

Connecting them was easy. But it still didn't work. A little more research revealed the backlight controller board also needed power. As many have stated in other posts, the power connector is there, just tucked away and unused. It took me a bit to find it, I was just about to make my own jumper connections to get this powered up and I found it!

[nglayton]

Here's the video of it working

https://youtu.be/6tg5ruXU64s