WMS BB1.5 Dual Screen: Top Box & Topper help request

[jagroups]

I have a couple HOW TO questions regarding  a Goldfish cabinet.

#1 - The reef on the top box. I took the reef off to give it a good cleaning. I noticed on the back of the reef that there are lights inside of it.
For some reason, I never remembered seeing this lit in casinos. Odd, considering how many hours I've spent on playing this favorite of mine.

Can someone show me what specific wires are used to plug this in. Also, what gets plugged in where. If you can provide any photos as a guide, it would be so appreciated.

#2 - The Cloud Topper. How does this get attached to the top of the cabinet? I posted a photo of the top of my cabinet. This is what I'm working with. I don't know if there is something that gets added to the cabinet to help support this topper.

I really appreciate any help with this. Much thanks in advance! 

The Reef




Cloud Topper




My cabinet

[rickhunter]

You need the mounting plate to use a topper on a BB1.  The plate attaches to the back using the same screws that hold that rectangular hole cover.  The same hole is used to run the wires from the topper.  The plate then has a circular opening where the topper drops in.

The lights on the Goldfish 1 cabinet are connected to a controller board if memory serves me right.  The lights are supposed to mimic lights as they hit the ocean bottom, it is a pretty cool effect actually.

[idesign]

Look closely at the rectangular openings on both sides of the reef.  In that one pic it looks like you have a 4 pin connector but above it the connector is missing.  The connectors on the PC board usually get torn off when the reef is removed so you may not be able to light it up. If you ant to experiment, connect 12V to the 4 pin and see what it does.  Each side of the reef is power up separately.

[jagroups]

You need the mounting plate to use a topper on a BB1.  The plate attaches to the back using the same screws that hold that rectangular hole cover.  The same hole is used to run the wires from the topper.  The plate then has a circular opening where the topper drops in.

The lights on the Goldfish 1 cabinet are connected to a controller board if memory serves me right.  The lights are supposed to mimic lights as they hit the ocean bottom, it is a pretty cool effect actually.

Thank you Rick. I'll post in classifieds for the attachment plate. Hopefully I can find several of them.

As for the reef, I did find a video on YouTube with the reef working. It sparkles! It does look very cool. No, I have never seen that in a casino that I've been to. I wonder if these brake or just not hooked up, which is odd to me. It does have a very cool effect. I hope to get one hooked up.

Appreciate your time!

[jagroups]

Look closely at the rectangular openings on both sides of the reef.  In that one pic it looks like you have a 4 pin connector but above it the connector is missing.  The connectors on the PC board usually get torn off when the reef is removed so you may not be able to light it up. If you ant to experiment, connect 12V to the 4 pin and see what it does.  Each side of the reef is power up separately.

Thanks for pointing that out, so I don't drive myself nuts. Below is a photo of the other side. Looks like this side made it! I have a few others I'm going to check. I found a video on YouTube with the reef lit. As Rick mentioned, it is a very cool effect. I have two reefs broken. I'll check my other two and see if I have any luck.

Thanks for helping out! Much appreciated.

Joey

[rickhunter]

I believe each side has both connectors on it.  Notice in the above photo, that there's a area where a 4 pin connector just like the other one from the 1st photo is missing.  So you are missing one connector on each side. You could solder a new connector and probably get the lights working, but you still need the controller.

[jagroups]

I believe each side has both connectors on it.  Notice in the above photo, that there's a area where a 4 pin connector just like the other one from the 1st photo is missing.  So you are missing one connector on each side. You could solder a new connector and probably get the lights working, but you still need the controller.

AH, ok. I'm going to check the last 2 reefs I have in hopes of not having to go solder stuff!
Do you know the info on the controller I need to find? Part number or photos?
This is all new stuff for me, as I learn. Thanks for the info!

Joey

[idesign]

The pics are not that clear but it looks like some traces are missing so might not be able to fix those that easily

[jagroups]

The pics are not that clear but it looks like some traces are missing so might not be able to fix those that easily

I'll have to get the other 2 out of storage, then line up all 4 and see what differences there are. Hopefully having one that's not broken, then go from there.
Thanks again! 

[hemiroid]

The guy I got my BB1 dual screen from told me I am better off staying away from the 'reef' glass. He said they break too easy.
He gave me the glass for 'Reel 'em In' And I don't pay attention to the glass theme when I change out games.
Your results may vary...

[Dirtguy]

I have repaired 2 of these, also I had one that I could not repair. You have to solder a 6 & 4 molex plug on each side . I found these at Digi-Key. Part # WM1803CT-ND  Conn Header SMD 6 Pos 3MM
          WM1802CT-ND  Conn Header SMD 4 Pos 3MM

It is very easy to pull these Molex plugs off the board when you take out the glass. I file off the nub on the plug that locks the two to gather so  when you remove the glass if there is any pull on the wire, hopefully it pulls out of the molex instead of pulling the molex off the board. You can cut away some of the plastic so you can get in there with a pencil soldering iron. 

[jagroups]

I have repaired 2 of these, also I had one that I could not repair. You have to solder a 6 & 4 molex plug on each side . I found these at Digi-Key. Part # WM1803CT-ND  Conn Header SMD 6 Pos 3MM
          WM1802CT-ND  Conn Header SMD 4 Pos 3MM

It is very easy to pull these Molex plugs off the board when you take out the glass. I file off the nub on the plug that locks the two to gather so  when you remove the glass if there is any pull on the wire, hopefully it pulls out of the molex instead of pulling the molex off the board. You can cut away some of the plastic so you can get in there with a pencil soldering iron.

Great info!!! Thank you so much. Are you for hire??? Unfortunately the parts are on backorder, with an expecting shipping date of 7/22.
I'm hoping to have one good board, but I'm still left with 2 - 4 damaged ones that need some love.

I did check my cabinets. I found that they do have the controlers in them. The wires have the old Molex plugs stuck in them. I'm going to try removing them to see if I can still use the same wires.

Everyone has been great with all of this information. I really appreciate this group!