Bally E Series Machine Trouble - Won't boot

[gamesmedic]

Pictures attached,

I turn the game on, get the digit "1" in the far right seven segment display. But the machine will not do the self test.

Pushing reset my the hopper can sometimes make the bell go on and off like the back up beeper of a truck. But stops when pressing reset again. All classic signs of a CPU working but a corrupt program. The RAM battery was just replaced with a 3.7 volt lithium, but the machine was failing before this.

My logic probe shows a clock cycle running, so I am assuming the CPU is working fine. My first thought is replacing the Epproms. Anyone have this problem and a fix?

[Amechanic]

Sounds like your machine has a ram error. The 5101 ram chips are on the small attached ram board.. I've attached a Power up Malfunction code for Series 1000 machines.

[gamesmedic]

This is the same for an AS-2978-3, 2000 series?

 
Alan

[gamesmedic]

Would the solution be doing something like a 'ram clear" as in other Bally machines, or should I just replace the ram chips, or sub board?

[Amechanic]

Your MPU is series 1000.. The AS-2978-3 is the board #.. You should have a Bally tag on the lower right side on the cabinet under the handle.. Your going to have to replace 1, if not both ram chips on that board. Doing a ram clear wont fix this problem. You could try removing the ram board and reinstalling it. Also I would do the same to the power supply boards behind the hopper. You can find the Eam chips on Ebay..

[gamesmedic]

I get  5.4 volts at the mpu board. I don't see what the power supply would have to do with this.

[Amechanic]

One if the main problems with the Bally E-Series machines are there power supply's and connection plugs. Heat cycles cause bad solder joints on the power supply header pins. Then what happens next is that 20 plug gets hot and burns the molex plug.. There are 4 test lops on the power supply, ground and 3 others, (see pic).. The voltages should be 5V DC, 7.5V DC, and 10V DC..

[gamesmedic]

I get what you're saying. I've been reading other topics about these models as well. I will check the connector. I'm used to doing the same thing on Bally/Williams HV score displays.

On a different note, another topic shows on a 2000 mpu board, after replacing the battery with  3.6 volt lithium rechargeable, the charging circuit needs to be modified with a resistor removed and a blocking diode put in its place. I'm wondering if I should do the same on this 1000 board, see attached. Or should I just disable the charging circuit entirely since the battery I used was not rechargeable.

Back to problem 1, do you have a supplier for the 5101 ram chips you prefer or will any eBay 1024k VRAM work?

Alan

[Amechanic]

Anytime you install a lithium battery in these older machines they recommend you disable the charging curcuit since they were meant to use a Ni-cad battery. I believe any 1024 bit 5101 should work, but I've bought mine off the ad here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251898604630
It even comes with a new socket. That is another problem with these MPU boards is the cheap sockets used on the boards. Check your around the battery for green connections from the old battery. Also check the ram boards header connections. Those like to rot away too. Those are also available on EBay under Bally slots, seller is foxsslots, I this that the sellers ID.

[gamesmedic]

I will order the chips, do the testing/checks and get back to you next week.

Alan

[Amechanic]

Sounds goods.. Hopefully that will breath life back in to your machine..

[ramegoom]

I have been using Li-Ion rechargeable batteries (power tool cells) right along with my truckload of E2000 machines, with no issues whatsoever. The trickle charge characteristics of the CPU board won't overcharge or overheat these batteries, and they'll hold their charge for months with the power disconnected. Got mine off of Ebay, soldered pigtail wires onto the ends, and added a short piece of double-faced tape to secure the battery. The 100 ohm resistor stays on the board, and slowly charges the battery during play time.

[Amechanic]

Do you know the EBay link ??

[GOS]

i sell the nicad batteries for $9.95 on ebay (152028476827) so why all the chatter for a work around?

[ramegoom]

NiCad's are great if you want to keep the originality, as long as you keep an eye on their state of charge.

I've never seen a Li Ion leak.

I have a stack of Jennings boards that are beyond repair due to very old nicads give up their guts. Most of them, however, date back to early 1980, so age is a big factor.

Personally, I don't trust them for the long run...

[Amechanic]

I personally don't care what battery I use as long as its safe. I do hate the mess a Ni-Cad makes when they die. Cost is my concern, and if I can find a suitable replacement for less I will use it.

[ramegoom]

Well, if you really want to go bargain-basement, use these rechargeable coin cells:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-pcs-LIR2032-Li-ion-3-6V-Rechargeable-Button-Coin-Cell-Battery-w-Tab-US-Stock-/361500374422?hash=item542b19f596:g:fO8AAOSwG-1W08QM

the 1/10th. of a volt rating difference is insignificant.

The E series boards have a layout for this size cell on the silk screening and foil pads, so Bally must've planned to use that design, but didn't. Probably because the rechargeable coin cells were insanely expensive in the early 80's and the standard Nicads were much more cost effective.