E Series Troubleshooting

[NE PA Collector]

Hello everyone, Im a new member to this forum,  I have a few 742 and 831 series machines,  but I just picked up my first, what I believe is an E Series 2000 machine.  It has set for quite a while.  Heres what I'm starting with...


Marked E2260-6 on Hopper unit.
Has general illumination, thats it for lights.  On power up I get 0...6     then quick 71.000

it looks like the door switch has been diconnected, with Gry/Brn and Whi/Blu tied together.
I see no lights on the 3rd reader, since in series, 1 bulb is out I figure,  thats an easy one.

I remove/reseated 2 Memory chips.  Has original battery, not leaking.  I removed/inspected/reseated all connectors/cables.  Nothing is burned/black on PS or any other boards.
Im able to do the 1-8 Tests with the Test/Reset switches on hopper unit,   Some work, like Hopper and Reel Readers, some dont, like Load etc.

I just got it over the weekend, so I havent had time to put a meter on it yet.  But I'm going to assume I'll be Re-Capping this,  so I would like your suggestions on where to start, which ones first, and suggested or recommended parts source.

  Thank you very much,  Mark

[NE PA Collector]

Can anyone offer any insight as to the 2 codes it displays on power up?

[Amechanic]

Can anyone offer any insight as to the 2 codes it displays on power up?

Hi Mark and welcome to New Life Games.
I would start by checking your power supply voltages. You have four loops on the PS for this. One is a ground, and the other 3 are for the 5V, 7.5V, and 12V output. The crimp connectors in the 20 molex plug for the PS do loosen there spring tension. Try unplugging the PS plug then reseating it.
Your door display is working correctly as are the numbers your seeing. Check your switch on the doors lower hinge inside the cabinet. You should be able to go into a test mod and then exit the test mod by closing the door.

[NE PA Collector]

I have 5v on the +5.    7.17 on ZC.    And 9.8 on VR




Yes, closing the door will cancel a test mode for me.


I’ll check those idc connections on the PS.   Why the low voltage on the 12 output,is this my issue?


Thanks for the reply.

[Amechanic]

I could be wrong on my third voltage. It might only 10-10 1/2 V. I’d have to pull my manual out and double check.
Your whole problem may just be bad reel readers. Can you run test 8? Put your game in test 8, then with the door open ad credits by flicking the coin switch, then pull the handle. Your game may tilt and show an error code. Error code 41-43 are reel reader codes. 41 being reel one and a 43 is reel 3.

[NE PA Collector]

I have no coin in, tilt, candle lamps, only flourscents.


I can do test 8, I can coin it once, additional triggers do nothing, I hear it release the handle, I can pull and spin the reels, and I get a 81.000 or 82.000 or 83.000


On power up I now get the 0....6 quick then 82.000


If I do test 1, coin switch does nothing and display is back to 71.000


I see that the lamps are out on the 3rd reader.   There must be a bulb out on that reader, I can handle changing them myself,   but why don’t I have any tower or tilt lamps.   
 I checked,  I have 5volts on the i/0 board.

[Amechanic]

Have you checked the fuses? Test them with a multi meter. I would then check the fuse holders them self. Remove the fuse block and test each fuse holder with the meter also I can’t tell you how many bad fuse holder I’ve changed out.

[GOS]

Have you checked the fuses? Test them with a multi meter. I would then check the fuse holders them self. Remove the fuse block and test each fuse holder with the meter also I can’t tell you how many bad fuse holder I’ve changed out.

which fuse would cause a reader not to work? 

[Amechanic]

One reader has a bad bulb, we already know that, but he’s not seeing and life on his coin lights or tilt and candle. This is why I asked about the fuse.

[NE PA Collector]

Well upon digging in with a meter and studying the diagrams, I traced the issue to the broken 21 wire at the molex off the transformer,  lights!


So when I reset, iit takes a coin, rings, advances to second coin, third coin, and will keep accepting coins.
When I pull the handle, reels spin, and the 2nd and 3rd will stop together,or just keep spinning.  I get the tilt lamp and Feature lamps flash.


So I guess my next project is replacing bulbs on the 3rd reader, and cleaning and lubricating the reel Assy.


If I do test 2,  it doesn’t advance past the first 1101

[NE PA Collector]

Well I’m stuck on this test 2,  my 47 wire at the coinswitch shows a short to 90 at rest, should be open.
I pull the NO off the switch to test the switch itself, it’s good.  Traced it to J3 Pin6.  It shows shorted there.  If I pull the connector from J3, it tests good to 90 thru the coinswitch.   


If I unplug J4... The short to 90 goes away from Pin6 on J3 if it’s plugged into the IO board.


I’m stumped on this.

[Amechanic]

You could try unplugging the reel mech 2 plugs and check for your short again. If that doesn’t change anything, then try it with the hopper unplugged. I’d have to see if I have a wiring schematic in my manual draw for the E Series machines.

[NE PA Collector]

Originally i was testing with the reels out, and I tried it with the hopper out, still tests shorted to 90.


Only unplugging J4 will remove that short on the NO at the coinswitch.


I’ll have to try pulling the board out again and following the trace,  don’t know what else.

[Amechanic]

Sounds like you IO Board has a problem. Not sure if the coin switch runs through the triac switches. I believe that K-Lar has IO boards for sale. You can find them in the sponsors section on the top of the home page.   

[NE PA Collector]

It goes into U17,  I’m going to change that hex inverter chip and go from there.  Think he might have that, ande reel reader bulbs?


Thank you very much!

[Amechanic]

K-lad doesn’t sell chips and bulbs, just complete assemblies. They might have reel readers for sale. I think the bulb number is #680. Use to have them on eBay.

[NE PA Collector]

Well I found an old ECG replacement for U17, replaced it and that fixed my shorted coin switch,  test 2 will work.  Now I have to fix my reader lamps that are out.


However, my lower candle lamp flashes constantly,  and the wires are off the door switch that is mounted on the door.

[NE PA Collector]

I pulled the 3rd reel reader out, went to test to see what bulb was out,  found a lead off of one of the bulbs!  Soldered it back on, success.


Now I need to pull the reel assy out, clean and lube it,  since I can now play it, but get random 42 and 43 errors, sometime the first reel locks and the 2nd and 3rd continue to spin.


The latch panels can barely rotate on that shaft.

[Amechanic]

Yea need to free them up.. Pull the reel assembly and tip it up onto the air cylinder side.. That give you good access to those linkages, and it allows the oil to drip down the shaft into the pivot points instead of off the bottom on them.. Make sure to check all the cross shafts and the top stop levers. Those top stop levers need to be able to rock up and down..

[NE PA Collector]

I did what you said,  thank you for the advice.  I tried removing as much of the old hardened greases and lube.    Re lubed it up.


I still get a 42 or 43 error every 4-5 pulls, 2 n 3rd reels don’t index.?


I it seems to now pay on a plum cherry, and didn’t on 3 Mellon’s.


A win overpays, shows no coin counter,  hopper test runs, no counter, runs, then shuts off, shows 59000


My hopper has 2 switches on the roller arm.  The one in the diagram reads 002 in the switch test, the other switch displays nothing.


Any thoughts