Author Topic: Do I really need ANOTHER slot machine? And, it's a Aristocrat! (Read 4323 times)

shortrackskater · « **on:** July 17, 2018, 09:51:54 AM »

So this showed up on Craigslist ...
I couldn't resist and made the half hour trip to buy it for a whooping $150.
It was made around 1976 in Australia but exported to USA - below the Aristocrat label is an IGT label. I'll get a photo of that soon.
I don't know who did these conversions either. It's got a 10 cent sticker over what's probably a 1P label. The coin-insert area looks like re-worked to fit a dime, which it does perfectly. The coin payout tube inside looks like it might fit that 1P but it's hard to tell.
The machine works and pays out but I think I need to inspect the mechanism and tighten up the reels. I removed it last night and four about 5 more of the English coins scattered around the bottom along with a few more dimes.
One thing I also like is there's no handle lock/release solenoid - it's strictly mechanical. Theres a small fluorescent light in the belly and one above which are still wired for 220v which is odd to me. My 70's Mills "open front" (an expert that was imported back to USA) has a huge transformer inside to convert it back to 110VAC for the lighting and handle release.
So I'm puzzled why it wasn't changed over unless this conversion was just done by some small casino and it was left "unlighted."
~~I think I'm better off just replacing the small fluorescent lights with 110VAC ones, instead of installing the transformer and having 220 inside!~~
Or why can't I buy a step up converter? That seems easier. I'll have to check the wattage of the two bulbs.
The other thing I like about it is that it's a small machine, about the size of my late 20's Jennings - but this dang thing is surprisingly heavy! Everything is metal.
Finally, the payout schedule is very mediocre! It just pays out piddly little amounts but has numerous ways to win the "big" jackpot of ten coins. I wonder what kind of place/casino this machine started out its life in?

shortrackskater · « **Reply #1 on:** July 18, 2018, 09:12:01 AM »

I found more information on Ainsworth Industries and Aristocrat. I had an 80's model years ago and sold it since it was full of unidentifiable circuit boards. This is all mechanical and very similar to a Mills mechanism.
I cleaned it up last night and installed a new door lock. Removed the mechanism and added a few drops of high grade machine oil to the reels and levers below it, and other places that looked like they were thirsty. At some point I should clean up and add grease to the areas where I see it's drying out.
But for now the machine is working great - and pays out properly. This is the most "ho-hum" machine I've ever seen but it's fun in a way that there's some many combinations for the ten coin win. I hit three bars in a diagonal pattern last night and it gave me the "big" ten coin payout!
I cleaned up the chrome and the cash tray. The machine is so easy to take apart that I think I'll sand and paint the cabinet.
If anyone's interested (which I doubt!) here's a link that explains the history of Len Ainsworth.
http://penny-arcade.info/the-aristocrat-collection
I searched the "Arcadian" and found numerous machines like mine, all various themes. I'm just happy mine doesn't have a damn clown on it! All of the dime machines had an identical 10Â¢ sticker over the 1P label, so I'm assuming that one company (IGT?) imported these machine and converted them, perhaps on military bases? Still it's odd playing a mechanical machine that's so "modern" made in 1976! I mean... I REMEMBER 1976... I was playing that funky music, letting my love flow, taking my money and running, listening to silly love songs. It was more than a feeling.

I still wish someone would advise me on the converter. The back tag says 220v 50cycles 4 amps. When I put the current and voltage in my calculator I get 880 watts! That's can't be right for running three small florescent lights, or can it?

rokgpsman · « **Reply #2 on:** July 18, 2018, 04:37:02 PM »

Quote from: shortrackskater on July 18, 2018, 09:12:01 AM

.....I still wish someone would advise me on the converter. The back tag says 220v 50cycles 4 amps. When I put the current and voltage in my calculator I get 880 watts! That's can't be right for running three small florescent lights, or can it?

Power (watts) = amps times voltage. So 4 amps X 220 volts does equal 880 watts. Maybe that spec on the tag includes everything in the machine that uses electricity when it was built, like a hopper. That would have a motor and use some amps, maybe more than anything else. The fluorescent lights wouldn't use much elec power.

What all is in the machine that uses electricity? Instead of a converter could you change it to use 120 volts? A lot of machines that I've seen have a main power transformer that lets you change the wiring so it can use 220 volts or 120 volts.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #3 on:** July 18, 2018, 04:39:47 PM »

Quote from: shortrackskater on July 18, 2018, 09:12:01 AM

No this never had a hopper. It's all mechanical which is what I like about it. Some models had a small counter on the top that paid out an extra bonus if it hit the word BONUS but this is just the version with the old (very old) fashioned payout tube.
My Mills "open face" does have a giant step up transformer that was added when it was "re-imported" back to the USA.
Maybe I should just take out all the electrical and replace it with 110vac stuff. Actually I can leave in most all the wiring - it's just the ballast and probably starters I'd think. I'll dig into it later.

So if it is a 99% mechanical slot, just has some lights, what is using the 4 amps of electricity? Does it have a lot of old-fashioned small bulbs scattered all over? Seems like that 4 amps would be getting used by something.

shortrackskater · « **Reply #4 on:** July 18, 2018, 04:45:22 PM »

No hopper, just an old fashioned payout tube. The only lighting are small fluorescents at the top, the reels and the belly glass.
My old Mills "Open Face" has a giant step up transformer but it's got lighting and a handle release solenoid.
This machine is just a bare bones machine with just lights!
One thing, there are two plugs in the back. One is for 220 input, but there's an output plug. I wonder if that would account for the extra potential current? But I'd have no idea what it would be powering...

rokgpsman · « **Reply #5 on:** July 18, 2018, 05:11:54 PM »

That electrical tag is hand-stamped with the numbers, someone may have had a shaky hand when they stamped the decimal point. Looks like maybe the amps is ".4" instead of "4". ?? That would mean less than one-half amp. If so that would mean about 96 watts of power usage. What wattage size lamps are in it?

shortrackskater · « **Reply #6 on:** July 19, 2018, 09:03:15 AM »

Quote from: rokgpsman on July 18, 2018, 05:11:54 PM

That electrical tag is hand-stamped with the numbers, someone may have had a shaky hand when they stamped the decimal point. Looks like maybe the amps is ".4" instead of "4". ?? That would mean less than one-half amp. If so that would mean about 96 watts of power usage. What wattage size lamps are in it?

I'm at Starbucks...

However what you said makes MUCH more sense now, and I feel like an idiot for not noticing that big old DOT right next to the 4!

With that said, if there were say 4 bulbs (I'm not sure if the belly has one or two) at 15watts (?) each, then I think that's beginning to make more sense. How do you calculate wattage in this thing? If there's three fixtures, then there must be three ballasts? Do starters draw anything at start up? I'd assume there would be more current draw/surge just at that point.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #7 on:** July 19, 2018, 09:17:58 AM »

well, anything connected to the electrical wiring like a ballast or starter will use some electricity. But I think the starter can be ignored, it uses a very small amount. The ballast may have some info printed on it but I don't think it uses a large amount of power. The fluorescent lamps have the wattage printed on one end. If there are 4 lamps at 15 watts each the total for them would be 60 watts. That would leave about 36 watts for the ballasts, maybe 9-12 watts for each ballast (depending if there are 3 or 4 ballasts).

Since the mfr calculated all of that and stamped the data plate with .4 amps at 240 volts (which is 96 watts of power) I'd take their word for it that the machine uses less than 100 watts. Are the fluorescent lamps 220 volt style? You could probably replace the ballasts, starters and lamps with 120 volt parts. Or are you planning to get a small power converter that will take your 120 volt wall outlet power and change it to 220 volts to operate the machine's lamps? What did the previous owner have it connected to for power? Or did they just not plug it in?

shortrackskater · « **Reply #8 on:** July 19, 2018, 09:25:37 AM »

The previous owner (s) had never plugged it in and just used it as is.
At first I thought of changing out the parts inside but I think it would be a hell of a lot easier to buy a step up converter. The ballast I can see on top, is nicely mounted and all the wiring is secured and tied, etc. It would take a lot of time to re-wire all that.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #9 on:** July 19, 2018, 09:39:36 AM »

I've been looking at some info on ballasts, the ones in your machine are likely made specifically for use with smaller wattage fluorescent lamps like 15 watts, so the ballasts may only use 3 or 4 watts each. From what I read the wattage that the ballast uses is about 20% of whatever wattage the lamp is. So 20% of a 15 watt lamp would be 3 watts for the ballast. The machine probably uses a little less than the .4 amps stamped on the data plate, but .3 amps would have been too low so they rounded it up to .4 amps. I'd think a 100 watt power converter would work fine.

shortrackskater · « **Reply #10 on:** July 19, 2018, 09:51:55 AM »

Quote from: rokgpsman on July 19, 2018, 09:39:36 AM

I've been looking at some info on ballasts, the ones in your machine are likely made specifically for use with smaller wattage fluorescent lamps like 15 watts, so the ballasts may only use 3 or 4 watts each. From what I read the wattage that the ballast uses is about 20% of whatever wattage the lamp is. So 20% of a 15 watt lamp would be 3 watts for the ballast. The machine probably uses a little less than the .4 amps stamped on the data plate, but .3 amps would have been too low so they rounded it up to .4 amps. I'd think a 100 watt power converter would work fine.

I'm headed to Fry's Electronics (the last place in all of Southern California that carries anything for a hobbyist) to check out their converters.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #11 on:** July 19, 2018, 10:24:11 AM »

Quote from: shortrackskater on July 18, 2018, 04:45:22 PM

.....One thing, there are two plugs in the back. One is for 220 input, but there's an output plug. I wonder if that would account for the extra potential current? But I'd have no idea what it would be powering...

That plug on the back that is an output connector is probably a convenience outlet, like for connecting a worklight by the technician. Or it could have been meant as a handy place to plug in another machine that was sitting next to this one, like in a bank of machines. The electrical data plate on this machine would just be for power usage of this one machine itself.

If you install a 120-to-220 volt power converter you will need to remember that if you ever need to replace the fluorescent lamps and starters in the machine to use the 220 volt ones - not 120 volt like is usually sold. From the outside the machine will look like it is operating from a normal 120 volt wall outlet power, so someone (including you if you forget) may think the electrical stuff inside is 120 volt parts.

shortrackskater · « **Reply #12 on:** July 21, 2018, 09:19:03 AM »

Yes I thought that plug might be for a row of these things... wherever they would have been!
So... we've got light!
I bought a 110 to 220/240 converter. It was more than what I thought. I was seeing the price of the one that converts down. This one was $26. The problem is it's too big. I've found smaller/narrower (to fit in the machine) ones so I'm going to return it.
Now the WEIRD thing is, at first only the top cabinet light came on. I fiddled around with the starters and bulbs and got the top door light to come on (lights the reels and "Arcadian" emblem).
After fiddled around with starter placement (and cleaning contacts) the thing works consistently (turning off and on) with ONE starter for the two door bulbs (6 watts), that have one ballast and one starter in the cabinet light, which has a ballast of its one (8 watt bulb).
I don't know enough about AC and/or if 60hz from my outlet makes any difference for a 50hz foreign light?

rokgpsman · « **Reply #13 on:** July 21, 2018, 11:14:13 AM »

Are you saying that some of the lights aren't working? Your photo looks like they are all on but your message wasn't clear to me what is working or not working.

The ballast in your photo is a series type designed for 50 cycles (now we say Hertz (Hz)). If I'm thinking right when it is used with 60Hz it will have about 20% higher impedance (resistance) than it would at 50 Hz. I think this means the fluorescent lamp connected to the ballast will receive a somewhat lower voltage and the ballast may get warmer. I don't know if this means the fluorescent lamp will not come on consistently. Did they have a power converter that changes voltage AND frequency? Ideally one that converted 120 volts to 240 volts and from 60 Hz to 50 Hz. But that may cost more than it is worth.

I'm pretty sure that the fluorescent lamps themselves don't care if the electricity is 50Hz or 60Hz. They just need the right voltage they are spec'd at.

shortrackskater · « **Reply #14 on:** July 21, 2018, 04:28:12 PM »

Yes ALL three fluorescent lights are on, with just two starters - one for the top and one for the two in the door. If I put the other one in the socket on the door, the lower light won't come on! I have no idea why.
I'm going to poke around the internet and see what else I can find.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #15 on:** July 21, 2018, 06:21:04 PM »

this is just a wild-a$$ guess, but those starters usually have a bypass capacitor inside, along with a few other things. That capacitor was probably selected for 50Hz operation, and with 60Hz going thru it that may change something enough to affect operation. As you know a fluorescent lamp has to have enough voltage on it to "strike" (start an arc), then once elec begins flowing thru the lamp it will work on a lower voltage. That capacitor inside the starter will have a lower impedance (ac resistance) at 60 Hz that it would at 50 Hz, so now more of the electricity is going thru the starter capacitor and less is going to the fluorescent lamp that is in parallel with it. When you add another starter that lets even more amps go thru the starters, this may lower the level of elec enough that the lamps won't work. Or something like that.

Like I said, that's just a guess. Does the starter have a spec or rating on it that says 50Hz, or does it say something like 50-60Hz? Also, after all the fluorescent lamps have been on for a while feel of the ballast, make sure it isn't getting too hot. Until you've had the machine for a while and see how it acts I wouldn't leave it on overnight, and when you leave the house turn it off. Just a precaution.

If you could find starters that are 240 volts and 60 Hz they might work better since your power converter output is 60 Hz. But if all your lamps are working and they are bright enough and your ballasts aren't smoking hot I guess things are ok. The power converter has a fuse, right? That should pop and save the day if there is a ballast meltdown.

shortrackskater · « **Reply #16 on:** July 22, 2018, 09:31:47 AM »

More detailed reply coming later... I have to work soon.
Well I already returned the converter. It was just too big for me to fit it anywhere in the machine. And yes it had a fuse. I didn't leave the machine on too long but nothing appeared to get too hot - no burning smells!
I'm going to check online again later today and keep looking for a smaller one and hoping 100w max will be sufficient. It might even require less.
Another thing I learned is that they simply replaced the coin insert "hole" for the dime and possibly the chute directly inside. There's a "bent coin reject" button on the outside but it depresses nothing inside. So there must have been an more elaborate coin accepter inside at one time I'd guess. I'd bet anything I could use pennies on this machine since they're closer to the size of the 1 New Pence that I used to be. The dimes work fine but if you move the machine sideways (which I did the other night) a portion of the dime stack in the tube turned sideways and jammed in the coin slides. It might be fun to make it a one cent slot someday.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #17 on:** July 22, 2018, 10:54:51 AM »

I was wondering about the coin handling parts it has now, whether some of it had been changed or modified since it was built for some size foreign coin but the front says 10 cents now. Do you think the seller was the one that converted it to dimes?

shortrackskater · « **Reply #18 on:** July 22, 2018, 04:30:40 PM »

No, the seller didn't convert it. He couldn't give me much history unfortunately. I did an intense search though, on these things. It's not too easy to find them. There's a UK site with information on them that helped a little.
A number of them I found on google had the same style sticker on the front. My question stands: who imported these and where they were used?
I still think they may have been in military bases, but I could be wrong. The thing is like a tank. It weighs a TON for being a small machine. It's got to be 100 pounds - metal everything.
I know this link won't be permanent but just bought this... it should work and it appears to be much slimmer than the last converter which was basically like a small power supply.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/UMI-ST-100-100W-110V-to-220V-Step-Up-Voltage-Converter-w-Fuse-Heavy-Duty-NEW/273343766062

Brand: UMI
Step-Up Voltage Converter
100W
110V to 220V
2-Outlets
With Fuse
Supports Continuous Use. Solidly Built

Paul · « **Reply #19 on:** July 22, 2018, 06:13:22 PM »

Why don't you change the ballast to 110 volt ones?

News:

NLG Site Navigation Menu

Author Topic: Do I really need ANOTHER slot machine? And, it's a Aristocrat! (Read 4323 times)