Bally 1090-30

[hoekma]

Hi Everyone!   


Last week I saw a post on Nextdoor.com for a $100 Bally slot machine.  Needless to say, I made an impulse buy and now join the ranks of people who have brought these gems back to life. After several days of starting to learn  how it works, I was able to bring it from a point where the wheels would not spin to where they now lock open, and wheels 1 and 2 release in sequence.  Wheel 3 is a bit hit or miss whether it locks.  Sometimes it locks in when #2 locks in, sometimes it locks in sequence, and sometimes it never locks at all.  So my first question is, from other pictures I've seen, do the slotted arms that come down with the clock look like they're configured correctly?  Other pics look like #1 starts in the top hole, #2 in the 2nd hole and #3 in the third hole. Not sure if that is different for this particular model, but this is the way it was when I picked it up.  It seems if they were up one hole the third one might make a more positive release.  Right now the amount it pushes down is barely enough to release the pawl latch.  However, if I manually push it down a bit more, it feels like the clock rod spins a little more and it releases. So maybe the clock drive isn't unwinding enough? 

[hoekma]

Heres the machine

[hoekma]

"born on date"

[hoekma]

Tag on the inside

[hoekma]

and finally the picture of the slot holes that the clock arms are set on to release the stops.

[wolftalk]

good job figuring out how it works.  The hole usage in the timer links is right. 


in pic below, the green arrows point to the successively smaller gaps between an idler and associated crank (purple arrow is crank).  You can't see the idler for reel 3 due to the variator spring, but it shouldn't be touching the crank. 


you should not be able to push the crank towards the back of the mech once the bits come to rest ... the timer lever to the left of the 1st reel crank should be resting against the edge of the rectangular opening in the unit frame above the clock and stopping the shaft rotation.


sounds like your diagnosis of the clock interaction with the shaft is right ... something is causing the shaft to not rotate fully and the crank is holding the reel 3 timer link forward.  Cruddy clock, way out of adjust switches holding the clock timer link back, worn roll pin allowing slop in the shaft connection ...


got pictures of the clock and area above it?

[hoekma]

You bet,  film is cheap these days!


I also took this home video of the behavior I'm seeing:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TB5P-07q9_U


Probably should have been done on super-8 to be period appropriate 

[wolftalk]

I ran the video thru a sepia filter for the old time feel ...

at the beginning of the vid where you're hold the fan, it looks like there's a gap between the reel 2 idler and the crank.  There shouldn't be ... the crank should be what's holding the idler back if the fan hasn't starting spinning since the kickoff.

it looks like your reel 2 idler is stuck to the shaft (the idlers are what your original red arrows are pointing at - the piece with the peg that goes into the link holes).  You're kinda bottoming out the #2 timer link and stopping the shaft from rotating as far as it needs to.


you should be able to easily rotate the idlers with your finger and draw the timer links back after the spin is over.  If you can't, the shaft is gunked up and needs cleaning.



my data for the 1090 only goes to model 19.  If you have the following info, I can see if what you have is close to one of those machines (or do you have the paperwork?)


- P-684-xxx numbers stamped into the slotted reel index discs
- m-645-xxx number on the payout counter disc
- any numbers on the reel wiper boards ... ideally of the form w-1041-xxx, but sometime there's just the xxx or nothing
- if really got spare time, the symbols on the reel tapes in order from the top, including blanks.  The top is where the tape overlap is.

[DavidLee]

A good cleaning of the kick/index mechanism will do wonders.
All shafts, bushings and pivot arms should move freely.

[hoekma]

Guys --    


A little WD40 on the stuck piece of #2 to get it moving independently from the clock arm followed by a little 3-n-1 oil and it's working like a dream.  Got it to start a payout and now that's jammed by a couple of quarters that made it past the little arm that is supposed to kick it out of the front of the machine, but I think I'm cookin' with gas now.   Just need to find the right coin tray for the front since it doesn't have one and a cabinet to get it up to stool height.