How to tell MPU Version?

[momospinyo]

Hey yall! new to the s2000 community. i just recently got a 4 reel big time pay slot, and more then likely im going to need a new motherboard because of that dang green battery leaking. how would i tell the correct motherboard to get, and if anyone has one for sale, and the reset chips that i would need to get so i can get it up and running!

 

*edit: if there’s a active post about this please lmk, i can take this down*

[Stayouttadabunker]

It depends on the MPU you have....post a pic of it.
Lets see how bad the leak was?

Here's an old photo I took of three different IGT backplane boards.
I think I mistakenly named the top one?
It's from my i-Game bench tester, but I guess it could fit a board with Game King software...lol
The 960 backplane has two different sized MPU header connectors.

Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>

[momospinyo]

It depends on the MPU you have....post a pic of it.
Lets see how bad the leak was?

Here's an old photo I took of three different IGT backplane boards.
I think I mistakenly named the top one?
It's from my i-Game bench tester, but I guess it could fit a board with Game King software...lol
The 960 backplane has two different sized MPU header connectors.

Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>

i appreciate the quick response. 2 traces had been kinda scraped off, and i have since made a connection with it. i’m waiting for a new door optic as the old one had been damaged by me, but prior to that, the slot would state that door m was open. i also got a no paper error, even though there’s paper. the slot has been rigged for the bill door bypass. i’ll send a picture of my mobo when im home, as well as where the traces have been rubbed off

[Stayouttadabunker]

Okay...you'll have to show us how the door is rigged up for the optic bypass, because you have to have the door in an open-state, and then in a closed-state to knock off "stacked" errors.
Hopefully, there's only two wires running to one side of a cherry switch.
The other two wires on the other side of the cherry switch, run go to the Service Lamp ( Turns on when the door is opened).

Here's an old drawing I made years ago.
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>

[momospinyo]

Okay...you'll have to show us how the door is rigged up for the optic bypass, because you have to have the door in an open-state, and then in a closed-state to knock off "stacked" errors.
Hopefully, there's only two wires running to one side of a cherry switch.
The other two wires on the other side of the cherry switch, run go to the Service Lamp ( Turns on when the door is opened).

Here's an old drawing I made years ago.
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>

The only bypass done to the machine is for the bill acceptor, not the main door, the main door hasn’t been touched for a bypass, only me accidentally ripping a wire off. i’ll show more once i’m home!

[Stayouttadabunker]

Oops...major error on my part pointed out to me by a fellow member.
Motherboards or backplane boards don't have batteries on S2000's....only MPU's have batteries.
I got mixed up....lol

On your MPU (The circuit board with all the software chips), there's two batteries.
One would be of a coin cell type.
Sometimes soldered directly to the MPU or installed in a battery holder.
The other is a big green one called the Varta battery.
That Varta is the problem battery that's not needed for home use, because of the age, they WILL leak and cause damage to the MPU at some point.
Some guys just take a pair of sharp dikes and snip them right off the board by the legs, just above the surface of the board.
That way, they don't risk damaging the tiny circuitry traces on the board.

I understand now what you meant about "bypassing"...you basically tied together the two wires that normally go to a microswitch on the small door that encloses the cash box.
Casinos normally remove the BV door locks that activate the microswitches.
With the locks, homeowners normally splice those two green wires together.

[momospinyo]

Oops...major error on my part pointed out to me by a fellow member.
Motherboards or backplane boards don't have batteries on S2000's....only MPU's have batteries.
I got mixed up....lol

On your MPU (The circuit board with all the software chips)
That's what we call "motherboards" for the S2000 platform, there's two batteries.
One would be of a coin cell type.
Sometimes soldered directly to the MPU or installed in a battery holder.
The other is a big green one called the Varta battery.
That Varta is the problem battery that's not needed for home use, because of the age, they WILL leak and cause damage to the MPU at some point.
Some guys just take a pair of sharp dikes and snip them right off the board by the legs, just above the surface of the board.
That way, they don't risk damaging the tiny circuitry traces on the board.

Yeah it was that varta battery, and from everything online, it looks like it was best to snip it off, and i have since change the bios battery to a new and fresh one, as it was reading 2.8v. The main thing what i did was use a little bit of vinegar and a soft toothbrush to get the battery acid from messing up anything, but i feel like i may of damaged something more when doing it

I understand now what you meant about "bypassing"...you basically tied together the two wires that normally go to a microswitch on the small door that encloses the cash box.
Casinos normally remove the BV door locks that activate the microswitches.
With the locks, homeowners normally splice those two green wires together.

Yup you’re right on that, seemed like the previous owner did that. the main reason why i scored this s2000 for $200 was because he was having trouble with the close door m error. i do need to get the proper key and reset chip, and i will attach those pictures. if you’re able to, please let me know what types of those chips i need, as down the road too im going to add that betterTITO and the ArduinoTITO with player card

[Stayouttadabunker]

What pair of GAME1&2 chips installed?
That'll help me tell you what Clear & Keychip to get.
You almost can't go wrong with owning the basic IVC00097 Clear chip, and a Keychip17.

The door m error is the main door.
When you close down on the main door latch, the optics should line up to "see" each other.
At that exact moment, if while watching the blue VFD display, you will see it react.

Below, I've attached for you from the manual, a small guide on how to properly use a Clear chip.
I warn you tho, you WILL to HAVE to completely set up ALL of the machine's settings in order to get it running again.
Normally, we ONLY use a Clear chip to erase all of the accounting history, or to change the denomination of the machine.
Now you see why we almost never use them...lol...>>>

[Stayouttadabunker]

Check your email.
Your PM messaging box is full here on NLG...
I can't PM you back.
You have to delete older messages or become a Contributing Member of NLG to get a larger mailbox.

I posted here's the photos you sent.
I can clearly see that yoursoftware is SB100231 with the SG000363 GME1&2 pairs.
The version of the MPU is actually underneath that large MML (Multi Media Lite) piggyback board that has the sound SIMM memory card of DSV00051.
The Version number's going to be etched directly onto the circuit board itself.

Anyways, from the SG363 PSR sheet, they suggest that you use IVC224 Clear chip, and a Keychip31...>>>
"Key Chip
The key chip is required to change some game options, such as the denomination.
The key chip is a 27C4002 or a 27C240 device and is labeled with the key chip number KEY00031.

Clear Chip
This IGT utility program enables the operator to clear the game memory.
Use IVC00223 (or replacement) to clear RAM or use IVC00224 (or replacement) to clear RAM and EEPROM."


Click on any photo to enlarge if needed...>>>

[lookes]

Post a clear photo of the varta location. From the photo Bunker posted it looks terrifying.

[Stayouttadabunker]

Wow...can you just imagine how many tiny little traces are cut in that area?   

They took out the Varta by shoving a screwdriver under it and prying up? 

[momospinyo]

Check your email.
Your PM messaging box is full here on NLG...
I can't PM you back.
You have to delete older messages or become a Contributing Member of NLG to get a larger mailbox.
[\quote]

just got the membership, i appreciate the help here it’s worth it!


anyways please see attached, i have 2 wires that are keeping the machine turned on, with out it it doesn’t work. it was from the previous owner taking off the battery and scrubbing.

the game chips i have are sg000363 (2 of them) version chip: vs011nx5 and stepper base: sb100231

i’m fully thinking im going to need a new mother board, but wanted to make sure the wiring is correct. i took a volt meter to the optic sensors, and the door ones both read give or take 3.5 or 4 v (the vm i have sucks) but on the cabinet side, the purple wire is the only one not giving me any voltage reading. is that correct?

[momospinyo]

Check your email.
Your PM messaging box is full here on NLG...
I can't PM you back.
You have to delete older messages or become a Contributing Member of NLG to get a larger mailbox.

just got the membership, i appreciate the help here it’s worth it!


anyways please see attached, i have 2 wires that are keeping the machine turned on, with out it it doesn’t work. it was from the previous owner taking off the battery and scrubbing.

the game chips i have are sg000363 (2 of them) version chip: vs011nx5 and stepper base: sb100231

i’m fully thinking im going to need a new mother board, but wanted to make sure the wiring is correct. i took a volt meter to the optic sensors, and the door ones both read give or take 3.5 or 4 v (the vm i have sucks) but on the cabinet side, the purple wire is the only one not giving me any voltage reading. is that correct?
[/quote]

[Stayouttadabunker]

You might want to get ahold of member Lookes.
See if he can take a look at your board...he's younger than me.
I would NOT live long enough to fix that...lol

[Tilt]

The proper terminology is important or you'll end up with the wrong parts.  That's a MPU board, not a motherboard, and it has significant corrosion damage from a previously leaking Varta telltale battery.  You need a new 502/504 MPU board.  Either one will work.  A lot of people like to get 504 Rev B boards because IGT fixed background hissing and hum in the sound with that REV.  They'll cost you more than the others, but if you have backlit reels it's probably worth it because backit reels often make the background hissing and hum worse.



 

[shortrackskater]

Subject changed to MPU from "Motherboard."
~moderator

[Stayouttadabunker]

i took a volt meter to the optic sensors, and the door ones both read give or take 3.5 or 4 v (the vm i have sucks) but on the cabinet side, the purple wire is the only one not giving me any voltage reading. is that correct?

Stick the red probe of your multimeter into any one of the receiver harness female pin holes (Purple or Green).
Touch the black probe onto any metal part in the cabinet - you should get about 4.55vdc.